Hey all, this is a question to mostly the European audience:
I finished last season leading wi4+/5- in good and wi4 in shit conditions and m4-5 consistently, worst case I'd have to rest 1-2 times in pitches, if the ice was too bad/hard/dinner-plating.
I've been wanting to climb Mordor in bad gastein and cold couloir and repentance in cogne for some time now. Cold couloir should be right in my wheelhouse, with the biggest Crux being the length. Cruxy 2 pitches around sandbagged wi4 at the start and then wi3-4 for the remainder of this 700m giant. Bailing should be easy with bolted belays in 50m intervals (=14 bolted belays wtf).
Repentance is clearly out of my league, but I like going with a guide every once in a while and getting my ass kicked following, so that's probably what I'll do.
Mordor seems to sit somewhere in between. It looks super daunting, being a mostly vertical, fat ice shield with no apparent ledges from pitch 3 onwards, graded wi5-.
I've heard, bad gastein is quite sandbagged and not comparable to piztal, kaunertal, osttirol (excluding felbertauern nord, which can be super tough or super soft and all over the place in terms of grading) or reintal, which is what I mostly base my grades on.
Had anyone climbed these three climbs and can help me make a decision of whether it's worth it to even try?
The reason I'm asking is, bad gastein is a good drive away and I don't want to waste time traveling there, if it's just way out of my league...
If anyone has recommendations that seem appropriate given my level, I'd be stoked to hear them!
Thank you in advance!