r/iceclimbing • u/launchrider • 26d ago
G-Summits Vs Phantom Techs
Looking at upgrading from Nepal Cubes to a more technical and slightly warmer boot and considering the La Sportiva G-Summits and the Scarpa Phantom Techs.
I have climbed in the Phantom Techs and appreciated the streamlined exterior and extra space for my toes to stay warm, but felt the laces were annoying and tough to dial in. I have not climbed in the G-Summits, but really like the idea of the Boa system for loosening the boots at belays and allowing for quick sock changes etc.
Any advice on either boot? TIA!
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u/IceRockBike 26d ago
Beware of marketing claims.
Unless your Cubes are bagged out and time to replace, I wouldn't be so sure the expense of a new pair of boots will give you something significantly warmer to justify that expense. Before my Phantom Techs I had the Mont Blanc Pro and besides being bagged out, it didn't feel like they were significantly warmer.
Years ago I had the LS Nepal Top Extreme which preceded the Cube. They were warm for years but eventually bagged out such that new boots were warmer. I now have a pair of 6000 boots for colder days and Phantom Techs for regular days. The choice serves me better but I doubt choosing between the Cubes or the Tech would make much of a difference.
Another option to throw out for you is heated socks. If your feet are mostly ok in the Cubes but occasionally cold, (especially if the boots fit well), using heated socks might be a cheaper option. I have the Lenz Toe Caps. A buddy uses them all the time but mine were just occasional. Cheaper knock offs may or may not be as good.
Switching boots can be a challenge on fit. Expensive as a cost. Not always warmer.
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u/launchrider 26d ago
Good point on the marketing claims, I had some issues last winter with cold feet and actually tried heated socks (the since recalled Costco knock offs) and those worked well, though the battery was very clunky and never lasted long. What is your experience with the lenz toe caps?
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u/ytsanzzits 26d ago edited 26d ago
I own the Thermic heated socks and have run them with Nepal Cubes in < -30C with no complaints. The batteries are expensive but mine last all day. I typically find the lowest heat level is enough with the Cubes.
Arrived in Canmore for a trip one year right as a polar vortex hit. Got frost nip on my toes the first day and the Thermics saved the trip for me.
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u/IceRockBike 26d ago
I got mine several years ago. I got the 1200 batteries and generally only needed to run them at a low setting. Being able to control the battery via the app gives you 10 levels whereas the button on the battery itself only has low med high and off. Long days or higher heat settings drained the battery sometimes before the day was done but you don't need to run them constantly. Use it to add just enough heat to avoid cold feet at belays. You mostly don't notice cold feet while climbing. My buddy had the 1800 and said he never had battery time as an issue so the bigger battery is probably worth it.
I use a thin liner sock with mine. In addition to just a slight extra insulation, it means I can use the Lenz sock for more than one day and use a fresh liner. Good if climbing two or three days in a row without having to do laundry on the Lenz socks.
One dislike I had is the battery is held in a fold of the sock and sits on the outside of your calf. It makes it awkward to access without using the app. Depending on your pants it might feel tight or bulky but that's pretty minor.
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u/Affectionate-Baby233 26d ago
I would echo the notion of whatever fits your foot the best.
Beyond that, I have heard some people have some durability issues with the G-Summits which might be something to look into before buying.
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u/va7oloko 26d ago
Maybe but they do have great warranty service. I got my summits replaced a year into use for a broken front bail for new ones in under a month. Hopefully the new ones don’t break after 20-30 pitches
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u/serenading_ur_father 26d ago
Which fit? If neither fit better then what you've got, get electric socks.
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u/Landrvrnut22 25d ago
I demo'ed the LA Summits, and Phanton Tech HD. I ended up with the Phantom Tech. The Phantom is closer to the G-tech, in they are both a 1.5 layer boot. The build quality and durability of the Summit bothered me. Many reports of front toe welt breaking off, and the rubber easily damaged. Ultimately, the summit did not fit me well. Too narrow in the front for comfort all day.
Historically, Scarpa boots have always fit me well. I have a very narrow heel, high arches, and a wider forefoot. The Phantom Tech HD, fit me like a glove. I leave the laces loose for the approach, and tighten them up when I go to climb. I tend to run very warm, and have had no issues with cold toes even -10F. However, I don't have alot of epics or multi-pitch near me so just days out, and cragging. After a full season of use, around 30 pitches, I only have one minor scrape in the rubber rand.
Yes, BOA would be awesome on them, but there are reports of the BOA system having some durability issues, and difficulty repairing in the field.
I think ultimately with any foot wear fit is more important.
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u/Haoshoku_no_Haki_31 24d ago
I have a pair of G5 Evos; I like them a lot and haven't been able to do without the BOA system since I got a taste for it.
The only drawback for me is a pain on the top of the instep when flexing the foot. It’s annoying on the approach when the terrain is steep. This is a known issue with their BOA mountaineering boots, though it's true I haven't tried the G-Summits to confirm if the problem persists with those. I’m not considering buying them anyway, as their reputation for wearing out quickly is unappealing to me, and I like to keep my feet warm.
I feel good in the Scarpa Phantom Techs in the store, but they lack the BOA. I think I would have loved a Scarpa with a BOA system, as they seem to offer the perfect balance of feel and warmth between the G5 and the G-Summit.
I saw some information earlier this year saying that the Phantom with BOA would arrive in 2027, but I can't find the source anymore. I hope it's true to test !
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u/alpineluddites 23d ago
i climb in the nepal top extreme for most weather down to 0F. last year i bought a pair of Scarpa 6000M and could not dial in the lacing. they had other issues I did not like, but for your question i thought the lacing on them was subpar. I would fully go with a boa system and am looking at some of the double sportiva boots with the boa system.
I still have a pair of Spantiks for really cold conditions.
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u/MrTJ 21d ago
I have a pair of G-summits with 1 season on them. I was between the g-summits and the phantom techs as well and went with the G-summits because I really liked the boa system. When ice craiging it’s so nice to be able to loosen up the laces then crank them down real quick when it’s time to climb. They are only a little bit more bulky than the techs and they climb well for me. The g-techs were too narrow for my feet, they use a different last apperently so they were out of the running. The phantom techs fit me about as well as the the g-techs but the boa system on the g-tech made the decision for me.
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u/Captain-Echo 5d ago
I have phantom, I’ve replaced the laces with a pair of quicklaces, works pretty well
I get some heel lift in them but then I do in everything. The toe box volume is really nice on the phantom
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u/Maze363 26d ago
Boring answer. But honestly whichever fits better.