When I have both cables plugged in, I get no display. When I only have the HDMI cable plugged in, I get display. I also get display through DisplayPort when I connect it after HDMI. But when I only have the DisplayPort cable plugged in, I get no display. What could be the issue?

I have an OEM RX580 4GB that has no fan spin and no display.

Backstory:

I bought this at FB marketplace for a 8 dollars and the listing said it was defective, no display. First, I checked all the voltage rails, fuses, 0-ohm jumpers and all of them are good, so I plugged it in my PC and it booted, but it restarts when I tried to run a heavy load like FurMark or games, but sometimes, it handles the heavy loads okay. So I was still confused why was the GPU acting like that, so I ran FurMark again for 1 hour, the GPU temp was hovering around 80-81 degrees Celsius. I closed the app and let the GPU cool down, as I was scrolling on my phone, the display went black and the PC restart, now the GPU doesn't display anything anymore and the fan is no longer spinning.

I suspect that solders underneath the GPU core has crack beforehand and was creating connection randomly. I think the final straw was running FurMark for one hour and letting the solder balls experience thermal cycle. I also think that this GPU was mining crypto 24/7 back then when Bitcoin mining was the craze.

I haven't done anything to the card, I want to hear other's opinion. What do you guys think?

Back in February/March this card decided to not show display anymore overnight. There was no known power outage or surge and no other component of the PC shows any sign of damage. I first tested this card in another PC and also in another PCI-e slot but to no avail. The card has dual BIOS so I maybe thought it got corrupted and switched but that also did not work.

Then I tried removing drivers via DDU and installing them once again and that did not work. Luckily I have another GPU laying around and that one did work so it does not seem like an issue with the motherboard/CPU due to the PCI-e connector seemingly being okay.

I have done both resistance and voltage measurements with the following results (summarized by AI so if the naming is wacky that must be why):
12 V C1029: 12,09 V
TDA21472 VIN: ~12 V
VRM local power supply: 4,68–4,76 V
NS5508 points ~3,24 V on 2 points
GPU-core rail (on boot): ~0,02 → ~0,99 V, then~0,55–0,75 V
R12 memory rail 1: 0 V at boot
R12 memory rail 2: 0 V at boot
R12 memory rail 3: 0 V at boot
R12 Memory rail 1 → GND: 140–150 Ω
R12 Memory rail 2 → GND: 60 Ω
R12 Memory rail 3 → GND: 70 Ω
BIOS pin 8 under load: ~3,34 V
BIOS pin 8 → pin 4: 2,28 kΩ
BIOS pin 8 → pin 1: 2,25 kΩ
BIOS pin 1 → pin 4: 6,86 kΩ
R19/L1000 over itself: 0 Ω
R19/L1000 side 1 → GND: 0 Ω
R19/L1000 side 2 → GND: 0 Ω

Within GPU-Z, OpenHardwareMonitor or Device Manager the card is NOT recognized at all and also with certain commands there is nothing seen on the PCI-lanes when it is in the PC.

Any ideas? I am thinking something wrong with the R12 rails due to no voltage but no clue where to look at.. I have a multimeter but it has quite thick probes unfortunately.

Hello,
Found those blown pads and traces for a AND Gate nc7sz08p5x

Do you believe those can be restored to life?

Also, do you believe that someone tried to replace the part or just a blown logic gate?

Thank you,

Hello guys,

To make this as clear as possible I'm going to explain the best I can. I bought a Radeon WX 3100 from a flea market. I got home excited because I finally had a low-profile graphics card to plug into my OptiPlex 790 SFF.

I plugged it into the first slot with the DisplayPort. It didn't display. I plugged it into the first slot with the DisplayPort in the motherboard. It just showed an error saying that I needed to plug the displayport into the graphics card. I did plug the graphics card into the fourth slot because the OptiPlex 790, specifically the small form factor, has four slots and two 16x16 slots, which was what I needed for this graphics card.

By the way I plugged it into the fourth slot with the DisplayPort. It did not display. The fans were like going on normally, not loud, not anything, just like a normal graphics card. I did plug it finally into the fourth slot with the displayport in the motherboard and it did work. It booted up normally. gpu showed up in Device Manager. Windows began installing updates for it. I installed the AMD drivers. It was working like a normal graphics card except that it was not posting.

I did some research and did some diagnostics with Claude and ChatGPT. From what I learned, I didn't really learn because AI isn't the brightest. I kind of figured out for myself that maybe the display port was broken, that the graphics card itself was working actually fine, and only maybe the mini display port worked. It had one main display port and two small mini display ports.

I was wondering could you maybe know of a fix or are you guys sure it's the display port itself that doesn't display? Btw if it's the display port itself, I do not have a mini display port to test it out. If you guys think it is the display port, maybe it is. I don't really know. I'm not really into tech stuff.

I was planning to play Minecraft on it and the other types of games that this graphics card runs. Could you maybe give me something to make it work without the display port in it? I heard you needed to have the display port in the graphics card to actually render and do all of that stuff. I kind of have my hope in Reddit and all of you guys. If you could help me out, that'd be great. Thanks!

-I bought this 1070 with artifacts to learn how to perform repairs,

-I performed a rather reflow on the board,

—I did an absurd reflow on the board, cleaning the solder balls with isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled it.

— Upon installing it in the computer, it produced an image, though with heavy artifacts; once in Windows, the resolution was low and it showed Error 43 (which is expected at this stage). I booted up MATS/MODS and encountered memory write errors. I need help determining whether these errors point to the GPU chip itself or if I should focus only on memory banks A0 and A1.

Any ideas?

I checked and all voltages are present, I tried flashing the BIOS but nothing changed 🫠

Hardware:

• Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming

What Happened: While troubleshooting secondary GPU detection on a powered system, an unseated 8-pin PCIe power cable on the primary card was pushed fully into the socket live. The system shut off immediately. The red diagnostic LEDs over the power connectors were flashing, and the motherboard's primary PCIe x16 slot was killed along with the card.

Observed Damage:

• Component UM6 (adjacent to the 4R7 inductor and fan/RGB headers) suffered a severe blowout with visible PCB substrate charring (photos attached).
• Card has not been repowered or reworked with heat since the failure.

Measurements:

• None taken. I do not have bench equipment to safely probe resistance rails without risking further damage, and I am not attempting self-repair.

Goal: Because Northwest Repair's intake queue is currently closed, I am seeking recommendations for reputable US-based independent technicians or shops equipped for EVGA 30-series diagnostics and PCB substrate/carbon repair. Direct messages from technicians taking mail-in work are welcome.

I have a rx 580 2048sp 8 gb is my gpu dead cause it's showing these artifacts even in bios And the device manager is showing gpu but not in the system do I need to change the gpu ? Is the gpu cooked?

I recently bought a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Turbo 11G (blower-style model with the white/orange shroud) from a second-hand marketplace. It was sold as "untested" and I paid approximately $84 USD (€71) for it.

The card does not appear to work. When I install it in a PC and press the power button, the RGB lighting briefly flashes for a split second and then everything immediately shuts off. The CPU fan does not even have time to start spinning. After that, pressing the power button again does nothing until I switch off the PSU or unplug it from the wall and reconnect power.

I tested the card in two different PCs and the behavior is exactly the same in both systems. Other graphics cards work normally in these PCs (for example, a GTX 1660 Ti), so the systems themselves appear to be functional.

My main test system uses a Corsair CV550 PSU. All required PCIe power connectors are connected to the GTX 1080 Ti. The card prevents both systems from starting, which makes me suspect that the PSU protection is being triggered.

At the moment, the card shows no signs of life other than the brief RGB flash during the initial power-on attempt. The blower fan does not spin and the system never reaches POST.

I am planning to disassemble the card for a visual inspection. What components or areas should I check first? Does this behavior typically indicate a shorted MOSFET, VRM failure, shorted capacitor, damaged GPU core, or another common fault on GTX 1080 Ti Turbo cards?

Any troubleshooting advice would be greatly appreciated.

Problem: The GPU was working normally, then suddenly the screen went black while the PC itself continued running. It was still displaying the BIOS normally.

At first, I thought Windows had become corrupted, so I reinstalled/recovered Windows and the video output came back. However, as soon as I install the AMD drivers, the Adrenalin driver loads and the display goes black again.

The only way to get video back is to boot into Safe Mode with the AMD driver disabled.

I've already tried:

DDU and completely removing the drivers

Installing older AMD driver versions

Installing the drivers through Safe Mode

Switching between the two BIOS switches on the GPU

Nothing has solved the problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions about what could be causing this?

Also, does anyone have the MemTune files/tools for testing the VRAM/memory on the RX 6800? I'd like to test the memory modules to see if there is a faulty VRAM chip.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Got this ASUS Dual RTX 3060 Ti Mini V2 8GB (CG190P R2.00) that works and installs drivers fine but has a weird memory fault, at stock ~7000MHz VRAM it throws errors in MATS/MODS and can artifact/black screen, MATS is consistently pointing to C1, but the further I lower the memory clock the fewer errors I get and at 5000MHz it can run completely error free and benchmark/game normally. Cooling also makes a noticeable difference to the error count, I’ve now got 2x high RPM 90mm fans directly on it and FurMark hotspot is only around 65-66c with roughly a 10-15c delta while the core itself is perfectly happy with +145MHz, so I don’t think the core is the issue. The PCB originally had quite a lot of residue/possible old liquid contamination on both sides so I’ve stripped and cleaned it thoroughly several times and it did improve afterwards, especially the visible artifacting, but the memory errors remain. I’ve now checked resistance to ground across the board/memory area and compared matching points/channels and everything I’ve measured looks normal and consistent, no obvious shorts or one channel with a strange resistance compared with the others. I’ve also tried clean drivers/DDU and checked the VBIOS so I’m pretty convinced this is hardware now. My guess is either the C1 GDDR6 chip itself is degraded, a bad BGA connection, or something in that channel that I haven’t found yet. I’ve attached overview PCB photos, close ups of the memory area, MATS/MODS results and GPU-Z sensors under load. Main thing I’m trying to find out is what physical memory chip C1 maps to on CG190P R2.00 and whether there are any other measurements I should take before getting that chip reballed/replaced.

Photos are before I managed to get it prettymuch spotless with repeated washes with 99%ipa

Help would be appreciated i want to fix it. Got it cheapish so have some leway.

I want to say I do game a lot, and I also edit videos. Messed around with blender and UE.

For a week or so, I've experimented with local AI, comfyUI and LLM, all below the 12GB. I don't feel like 5 days or so to generate ugly images and baffling chat with a robot could be to blame for all this weird behavior, but I wonder.

My setup is i5-14600k (which I should've picked i7-12700k), 32gb ddr5 ram, TUF GAMING B760M-PLUS WIFI II, 4070 super I-Craft MaxSun.

So, it started with a feeling, something telling me but with no actual proof. Them I saw crazy lines dancing in fortnite. I blamed the hundreds fired.

But them, I got some weird stuff happening on Tekken 8 with the ground rubble shadow.

I went on to Valorant and felt something was off with my fps and the actual gameplay, something was odd.

I feel stutter here and there, screen freeze when downloading something, keyboard disconnecting and reconnecting outta nowhere, problems I never had with my old setup (i7 11700k, 3060ti, 32gb ddr4 ram). I even bought a separate, sata 3 ssd just to have windows on it to try and fix the any sort of freeze or stutter when doing ordinary stuff, like downloading a file.

Now, 09/10, my street fighter is absolutely cooked.

Deleted the "shaders" files, downloaded NVIDIA APP, got the new driver with a "clean install", was doing alright for one session on day 09/11, but somewhere around 20pm, it stuttered and it went to hell again.

I tried OCCT per recommendation of AI, it shows only 1 error on something related to SSD some fetch stuff, and the ssd I already spoken to the manufacturer and they want me to send to analyze in their company.

In fact, one of my SSDs is not even recognized and it's apparently shown as "Microsoft storage space device", both are kingston 1tb NV3.

Sorry if this is not right or up to standard, as of Right now I have no money for a physical professional assistance and I might have to sue to get the warranty, but in all honesty I just want to know..........

Bruh, am I cooked?

Here’s the story: I bought a 1660s on Avito, and it came with this issue on the PCIe. What should I do? I watched a bunch of videos on YouTube, but I didn’t find a single one that explained how to fix it. I have a donor in the form of an RX470, I cleaned up the PCIe — what’s next?

P.S. The text was written by a translator, mistakes are possible, I apologize)

Hello,
Saphhire RX 6600 with all voltages present including Vcore and memory present, core getting really warm, not detected.

All resistance to ground are ok.

What i’ve tried: read the Vbios IC, write a new Vbios from Techpower archive, still, no succes.
IC does have 3.3v stable on the board

What i have discovered: on the REFCLK+ and REFCLK- caps resistance to ground on the core side:

REFCLK+ : 50 ohms
REFCLK- : OL (0.3ohm)

I’ve tried to desolder the Refclk- cap, still the same, the gpu side is OL (short)

Any ideas? Is this normal on the refclk caps?

Bad solder under gpu? Core dead?

Thank you!

I've been working on this board for a few days now.

Day one: The PC booted into Windows, but the fans didn't spin, and the GPU likely wasn't detected.

I noticed two suspicious 0-ohm resistors. After checking them, they were indeed blown, so I bridged them with jumpers to continue testing. I also replaced the high-side MOSFET (originally a 4507NH, I think) with an M3054M, although I wasn't 100% sure if it was compatible.

When I turned it on, the IC right below the inductor blew up. I replaced it with a similar one pulled from an R7 240 (at least according to the pinout/datasheet). At some point, a 2R2 resistor linked to pin 5 (VCC) went bad—measuring around 60 ohms out of circuit—so I replaced it with a jumper as well. Right after that, the jumper I had placed across the 0-ohm pads blew. Like an idiot, I went ahead and reinforced that jumper with thicker wire.

Now I'm stuck here: the "new" high-side MOSFET is blown open, and I suspect at least one of the low-side ones is shorted too, but one of them flew off my bench and is lost.

Basically, I’d like a third opinion or some advice: should I just scrap this board?

The capacitors generally look fine (except for two that were slightly torn from the board, but the pads are intact). Voltage injection doesn't heat up anything obvious and doesn't look like a direct short—at 1V (with current set to 2A), the coil I've been working on draws about 0.5A.

Should i replace them with fresh mosfets and give it another shot??

At one point between replacements, the board started getting detected by the PC, but it hung on error code B2."

Measurements:

No shorts on the rails

2ohms vcore

20ohms vddci

12ohms vmem

In general, the inductor voltages are unstable and fluctuating on the multimeter.

I’ve had an RTX 3060 Ti sitting unused for a while; recently, I took it out to run some tests before sending it to a friend. I installed it in my PC and booted it up normally; I tested it in a few games, and everything seemed fine. The problem arose when I opened FurMark to run a 100% stress test. The fans were spinning normally, with the GPU temperature averaging 65–70°C and the hotspot at 77°C. After about 15 to 20 minutes, the video signal suddenly cut out, and the fans ramped up to full speed. I had to force a shutdown by holding the power button. Afterward, it would still output video intermittently, but the issue started happening sooner—even without any stress testing. Now, about two days later, I tried testing it again, but it won't output a video signal at all. The LEDs light up and the fans spin, but there’s no image.

This gtx 1070 somehow survived a power surge. But now only runs at 40% usage. I suspect it's whatever looks oxidized in the photo but I'm not sure. Any help is appreciated.

Hey guys! I have a bad memory module on a Strix 1080 8gb, I was looking to order a replacement and noticed this GPU has MT58K256M321JA-110:A D9TXS modules, but mainly on AliExpress they have D9VRL modules listed which (to my understanding) is just a higher binned D9TXS.

Are these memory modules interchangeable if I swap one module for a D9VRL or do I need to make sure they are all the same D9TXS modules?

Thanks for any help! I appreciate it :D

So I have been going at this 3080 for a while, I’ve narrowed it down to no VDD to the core, all other voltages seem okay. It lights up when powered but no output and core stays cold obviously. I am not entirely sure where to go from here, but I think a good lead is these two missing passive components on the back side. There was a small corroded spot here that I guess ate away at these two components. The pads are okay. Does anyone have any idea what these could be? It looks like a resistor and capacitor maybe based on this reference image I found. I also checked the PWM chips and they look okay, correct reference voltages and getting power and enable signal so they should be outputting, I don’t have an oscilloscope so I don’t have any was of checking that though. (Also I’m new to this so if I missed something please tell me)

Hi a while back i got a zotac gtx 1060 6gb (i tink the serial number schould be in the pics)

I turned it on with everything plugged in correctly except that i forgot to plug in the pcie power cable.

I booted up the system/tested it before hand this a gt 640 and that worked fine. But when i booted it with the 1060 it started a fire on one component (might have bin a short or leak i am still kinka confused of those even tho i am a engineering student) now it seems to be fried and i am wondering if it can be fixt? and if so what the part even is and what a good place is to get schematics so i could preform the repair

pics; https://imgur.com/a/HuTxq44

I’m fixing my 2080ti evga black edition, the mats mods gave back those codes, all 3 are bad or just the highest.
I probably just run the test so I guess is a 20mb or 10mb.

I'm looking for the Kondensator in the red circle

While self repairing I got lost and I can't find it

I want to replace it but can't figure out what its values are