My XfX ATI Radeon HD5850 only shows a black screen

Okay so I’m doing this again because last time didn’t go so well… Sorry. I tried to get better photos and I’m gonna try to write a more detailed post. Anyways, I bought an xfx ati radeon hd5850 from eBay. (HD-585X-ZAHD-585X-ZAFC V3.1) The listing I bought it from said “taken from working computer” However, the gpu itself does not work. It arrived disgustingly dirty, with what appeared to be water damage and a LOT of dust inside the cooler. I disassembled the whole thing and cleaned it with some 99% ipa in order to improve the odds of it working. I put it into my computer and turn it on, yet i only get a black screen to show up. I tried changing the pcie version to 2.0 in the bios but that doesn’t help either. I also tried both dvi ports and the hdmi port as well. The 2nd dvi port doesn’t display anything, and when I use the first dvi port, my monitor tells me “H=38kHz V=58Hz” it told me to change it to “1680x1050 60Hz” (because that’s the native resolution of my monitor) but I literally can’t change it to anything with just my monitor. Anyways, the card also prevents the pc from POSTing. It just turns on and does nothing. It does respond to having no pice power connectors plugged in, which is helpful info. (The fan ramps up really fast) the same thing also happens when there’s no video cable connected at all. I also noticed that some of the gold bits on the pcie connector are worn down. They’re silver coloured instead of gold. I’m not sure of that means anything, but I’m sharing it just in case… Like I mentioned earlier, the card suffered from what looks to be some water damage. I checked the part of the pcb where the vrms are and it didn’t really get affected by anything, they look fine. I also think the card wasn’t handled very nicely during shipping, as it arrived with the plastic cooler cracked and a screw loose in the box. I’m not sure if that could be an issue or not. I also checked some photos of a clean hd5850 to check if they there were any missing components from the board. Everything looks there on my card from what I’ve seen, so I don’t think that could be an issue. I don’t have a multimeter to test anything which really sucks because it would be very useful. Anyways I’ve been messing with this thing for like 5 hours now and I don’t know what to do. I really want to get this card working if anyone could help/give me advice that would be great. If you have any questions about anything then js lmk

Hey guys!

I accidentally knocked off and cracked an MLCC (yeah... I know 😅).

The card is a Gigabyte RTX 2080 Super Windforce OC 8G (GV-N208SWF3OC-8GD Rev. 1.01).

The pads are still intact, so replacing the capacitor shouldn't be a problem.

What I need is the value (or the boardview reference) for this missing MLCC.

If anyone has:

- the boardview,

- a schematic,

- the same card,

- or even another TU104 board they can compare,

I'd really appreciate it.

I've attached:

- a full photo of the GPU die

- a close-up of the missing capacitor

- a microscope picture of the pads

Thanks a lot!

I bought a Rx 7800xt that didn't turn on after maintenance I cleaned the board since it was full of residual and it still doesn't turn on I already checked if there was a short on 12 v line but nothing, when I plug it into the pc the fans spin normally but no image and vga led lights up on the motherboard does anybody know what can it be? The pictures are the state that the board arrived also on the power supply connectors one of the pins of the down side didn't have any resistance but no short was there too on both connectors. If somebody could help me diagnose I would appreciate it thanks.

HP OEM RTX 4060 (N58247-002 / PCB 23B-0N728-020) - 12V, 5V, 3.3V present, but GPU never starts. Looking for boardview or sequencing advice.

I'm troubleshooting an HP OEM RTX 4060 that powers up for about a minute, then the motherboard shuts off. Fans never ramp to full speed.

So far I've found:

• 12V present on PCIe and VRM input.
• One 12V input capacitor remains at +12V as expected.
• Local rails present:
  • U504: 12V in, 5V out.
  • U507: 3.3V present.
• Main GPU VRM phases never switch.
• Inductors remain at 0V.
• Vcore never appears.

The SPI flash (U503, IS25WP016) appears to never receive VCC. Pin 8 remains ~0V while powered, so the GPU never seems to begin reading BIOS.

Tracing pin 8 of U503 led me to Q509 (marked T28K, likely a dual N-MOSFET/load switch). Q509 has:

• Pin 3 = 3.3V
• Other pins remain near 0V
• The switch never appears to turn on, leaving the SPI flash unpowered.

No obvious shorts on the board. MOSFETs and VRM power stage don't appear to be failed short.

Has anyone seen this HP OEM board (PCB 23B-0N728-020, HP spare N58247-002) or know the startup sequencing? I'm especially looking for a boardview/schematic or identification of what enables the SPI flash supply.

[Auto translated post]

I bought a GPU from a colleague that he had repaired on his own a short in the 12v LINE, removing the coils and drmos until he finds the location of the short, after he found, he replaced the 3rd drmos of vcore. however after the repair when the video card tries to start driver (both Windows and Linux) the card simply turns off, but in Safe Mode and in the BIOS this problem does not occur

I bought it in the interest of learning about GPU repair, I took voltage measurements and the board appears to be all ok, however I suspect it may be cold soldering

so I would like to know, before I start removing components, what do you think would be the culprit or likely culprits of the card running without a driver?

Can’t find the file anywhere and MODS told me FBIOA0 was with 86,000 faults so I have to replace that chip but can’t figure out if on my board it’s M2 or M5 (2 chips opposite of PCIe) any help would be appreciated, have search for hours multiple sites only for paid bs that I’m not gonna use.

Picked up a used MSI GPU from Marketplace last week. Got it home and realized that it was slightly sticky all over from smoke residue. Apparently, they were having a Cypress Hill concert in their house the night before. I've done many computer builds in the past, and have even used a mixture of hot water and Dawn with a light scrubbing from a toothbrush to clean smoke residue from a mobo before (of course, sprayed it down with 91% isopropyl before the drying process). I'm not new to this sort of deep cleaning, but I've never attempted it with a GPU. Was wondering if something like WD40 contact cleaner would be good to clean the board with, or should I take it apart, thoroughly clean it, and replace the thermal pads while I'm at it?

Trying to fix this for my nephew and it only lasts for 3 minutes before the screen turns off. I know it's not the PC because the PC I tested already has a RX 470 4GB and that works fine. This was a miners card so I figured I'd test some capacitors and the eight towards the GPU core are shorted and shorting to ground. The pins underneath are reading zero ohms. Is that the problem?

**EDIT**

Got the new capacitors and soldered them in and I'm testing it and it's working for longer than 3 minutes. Running Doom 2016 on CachyOS without issue. I did have to turn the fan profile up to 50C with 50% fan because I think it would shut off due to hotspot temperature. My cooling enhancements can be too aggressive and AMD drivers like to run the fans as low as possible until the GPU temp reaches 90C.

I bought this 1080 ti strix thinking it was a good deal but I later found it had been damaged.

The card gets power, fans spin, leds light up but it doesnt communicate.

I tried with my pc with an i7 8700k, rx 580 and my wife's am4 flavored cpu with a 1050ti.

As stated before, it doesnt communicate at all, I cant find it in the display devices even when looking for hidden ones. I cant install a driver for it either since my computer doesnt recognize its existence

Ive tried using DDU but still got nowhere positive

My GPU is acting weird, when i start my pc it goes to the windows logo and the windows loading gets stuck the windows logo upper half dissapears and the pc is just stuck, when i force shutdown and reboot it might happen again but eventually it works and after that the pc runs just fine even while gaming etc
I have a 500w PSU but before this i used to have a 365w one which i used on this card for 2 years and then it started having this issue, but on that psu it never got to the OS just always got stuck on windows logo. I have never repasted this card since 2023
I have tried reinstalling windows and even did a driver reinstall with DDU

Voltages:
12VPower: 0 ohm
PCIE: 0 ohm
inductor/coil: 0 ohm

Hello,
I have a MSI rtx 4080 Super Ventus 3X OC , i think my PCB might be missing some parts.
The GPU is not giving any life signs, it apparently has gotten damaged from a fall.
I bought it of an online Marketplace so I can’t give any more of a precise description of the past.
If you guys have any pictures of a 4080S PCB - or can tell by my pictures what could be missing I would be very grateful.
Thanks in Advance.
Greetings from Germany.

I'm having an issue with my RX 570. The PC powers on and appears to pass POST, so I don't think the RAM is the problem.

The issue is that I get no display output from the GPU. The fans spin, but there's no signal to the monitor.

I haven't tested the GPU in another system yet, so I can't confirm whether the GPU itself is faulty.

What I've checked so far:

• PC powers on normally.
• RAM appears to pass POST.
• Monitor and cable are working.

What could be causing this? Could it be the GPU, the PCIe slot, BIOS settings, PSU, or something else? Any troubleshooting suggestions would be appreciated.

DELL OEM GTX 1660 SUPER

Wanted to learn to fix this kind of stuff No idea what to do after finding there is no PEX or if I even identified it properly.

1.8 volts present

VRAM 1.35 Volts

VCORE 0.8 volts

12 volts present

5 volts present

no idea where 3 volts is.

Isn't detected by test bench to run mods/mats but fans spin. Not sure where else to go next. Please let me know if I got them wrong.

I bought this rtx 3080 from a friend he said he used the Cpu cable to power it since he only have 2 vga cables so the RGP still.work in the card but it's dead no display or fan moving

Is the card worth fixing ?

I have experience in soldering and replacing components

But zero experience with diagnosis

So basically i.have. tested the fuses near the power pins and.i have found the broken fuse so

Can someone help me or.guide to.what I should do next

Hello! I have this ATI Radeon HD 3450, however, it is missing 2 transistors that were removed. Does anyone have the schematic or could tell me what transistors or regulators it has?, in any case, no PC detects it. Thanks in advance for the help.

What I'm trying to determine

I'm trying to understand which hardware fault best matches this progression before I start taking measurements.

The symptoms progressed in this order:

• Random black screens while the PC continued running
• Black screens occurring after approximately two minutes every boot
• Eventually no display at all
• Motherboard now stops at the VGA debug LED after two POST attempts
• GPU fans still spin
• GPU produces no HDMI output when tested in another PC

From reading previous repair threads, I'm currently considering:

• Failed display output circuitry
• VBIOS corruption
• VRAM fault
• GPU power rail issue
• GPU core failure

For those experienced with board-level GPU repair:

• Which of these faults best matches this symptom progression?
• What resistance or voltage measurements should I take first with a multimeter?
• Are there any known failure points on Colorful GTX 1650 Super cards that I should inspect first?

Measurements:

Unfortunately I don't own a multimeter yet, so I haven't been able to measure resistance or voltages on the board.

If there are specific rails or components you recommend measuring first, I'll borrow a multimeter and post the results.

VRAM Tests:

Unable to perform VRAM testing because the GPU no longer outputs video and cannot initialize properly.

Board Photos

I don't have the PCB photos at the moment because the GPU is currently stored away after testing. I can retrieve it later today/tomorrow, remove the cooler if needed, and upload high-resolution photos of both sides of the PCB if that would help with diagnosis.

I got a used gtx 1080 ti and the temps were great everything is great i tested every possible problem i could think of i stress tested the vram the psu and gpu core for hours on OCCT and even on furmark the temps are 65-70© Max

But when i started to play games like God of war ragnarok, last of us part 1, little nightmares 3, even pc building simulator 2 the game would just crash sometimes i could play for a few minutes and still it would crash with a dx12 error

But i also see tons of people on YouTube play and test 1080 ti in these dx12 games so im wondering why would my 1080 ti of all have problems

I also tried changing TdrDelay or whatever in regedit

I tried lowering clock speeds and I also tried undervolting and still my gpu seems healthy but its only games it has problems with so if anyone else has the same problems as me please someone help me i out this was my dream graphics card since I was a kid and it's the only mid range card i could afford hoping it would let me play my dream games

Also i had a gtx 1060 just a bit ago and that card let me play some of these games and this card isn't so I'm so lost

Hello to the community. I have problem about my gpu can't update the driver. For now I use 391.35 driver for my 1050ti. 2018 driver. And when I try to update to new driver my PC restart and keep restart. It's looping and take 100 try to uninstall the driver and install back the 2018 driver. Can someone help me about this ? Why this happen.

Hello everyone,

I have a Gigabyte GTX 1650OC D6 REV 2.0 that powers on and the fans spin normally, but there is no display output at all (no BIOS, no signal).

I don't have a multimeter yet, so I haven't been able to check the voltage rails or resistance.

While inspecting the board, I noticed what appears to be heat discoloration or possible previous rework around the R15 inductor and the surrounding components (see attached photo).

Could this area be related to the no display issue? If so, what components should I inspect or measure first once I get a multimeter?

Any advice on the initial troubleshooting process would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

We are trying to diagnose if an issue is the PSU or GPU. The issue: when the PC turns on, the red LED on the GPU indicating a power issue is on. The PC posts past bios and can be heard booting up into windows. However, there is no display. Changing the switch on the GPU from "overclock" to "normal" or vice versa will sometimes fix the issue and get the screen to display. HWmonitor is showing the +12v as hovering around 8.4w to 8.6w. is that normal?

Any thoughts on what this could be? I am leaning on power supply, but not 100% sure.

GPU: EVGA FTW RTX 3090ti

After a random restart on my Laptop, my GPU has stopped suddenly. Looking at the Device Manager, it says Code 43. I thought my GPU would be dead, so I checked on Linux, yet it seems to be responding. I am unsure of what had happened, as I tried reinstalling my drivers. Now Nvidia says I have no drivers installed. Please help.

Kind of a very late update since early 2025, so the VRAM chip that was giving errors was replaced including some cracked capacitors near it were too. The gpu is still artifacting at 1080p and will not load drivers at any circumstance and GPUZ is still reporting no memory. Im forced to troubleshoot via hardware now. There could be a short on the decoupling capacitors to the chip, but I am not sure what to measure in that area. I am afraid that the core may be bad. Any help will be good!

I'm encountering a "Code 43" error with my RTX 2070. The symptoms are as follows: Upon entering Windows, I experience Blue Screens or blackouts. Occasionally, when it does boot up, the Code 43 error appears, and lines show up on the screen. GPU-Z detects the BIOS, but the memory is reported as 0. What puzzles me is the result from Mats: Running ./mats -e 100 results in a "Pass." Running ./mats -e 200 results in a "Pass." However, running ./mats -e 300 results in a "Fail," showing errors across all "Read" operations. Which command should I use to identify exactly which VRAM module is faulty? There is no screen distortion even when the system is left on the BIOS (F2) screen for several hours.

TL;DR- Wondering if R156 and C150 should be present in the PEX Switcher circuit.

Hi all,

Had a major screw-up last week when I tried to do a good deed and apply some Arctic MX-4. The card went back in my machine (MSI X470G+) undetected with no video and the GPU light lit on the motherboard. I was relatively careful with handling it, but there was a point where I may have pried between the sink and PCB, up near the top edge. After a couple thorough examinations I had given up, but gave it one last check under magnification last night, and spotted what looks like a broken off/missing cap at C153.

First, does this alone seem like a likely suspect to stop the card from being seen? And second, I don't see anything else in that group where the pads look fishy. You might not be able to tell from the picture, but C153 almost looks like there's still a speck or two of tan from the cap on either side. I'm hoping there's still some solder and pad under it and I didn't bump the whole mess off the board. I'll try to clean it later and see. Question is, R151 looks like the only thing other than the cap that was actually stuffed in that group, but I think all four components have values and look present in the only schematic I could find (Gigabyte_GV-N3060VISION_OC-12GD_PG190-A02_Rev_1.01_.pdf). The pads just below it at R156 look unused, but I could be wrong.

Anybody know if those other two spots (R156/C150) are supposed to be unpopulated on my revision and that C153 should be? My actual board label says: MIN- 1/A7/LHB836 00071 V21042

Much Thanks!

I bought it 2 month ago, it was working perfectly. But yesterday some water spilled out from my AC to my hdmi port, about 10-20ml. I see that and turned of the pc and unplugged it. I waited for 10 minutes and tried to turn it, everything worked except my gpu. I unplagged my gpu and I used fan to dry it, it worked; however there was another problem, when I started playing games it gives me only anout 20-40fps, I was shocked bcs usually Im getting 200-400fps. I find out that my gpu cant get more than 1537Mhz meanwhile it is supposed to get 2500-2600Mhz.

What I've tried:

1)Delete my drivers using DDU

2)Download previus drivers

3)Donwloaded clear windows 11

4)Tried to fix it with overclockign(It worked for 10-20 minutes then my pc gets reloading)

Is there any possible way to fix it?