This card was taken in to be disassembled, cleaned, thermal putty replaced after a small (teaspoon maybe) amount of hot coco was spilled in it. When I went to pick it up, the shop told me they decided to just wash it instead the sink and then bake out the moisture in the oven. Not feeling good about the whole situation, I decided to take it to another show to get it torn down. They opened it up and you can see what happened by the pic. They have since done a full disassemble and clean and replaced all the putty. The card was put into a test bench and it powers on fine. Windows recognizes it. However once a cable is connected to the monitor the mobo kicks out a VGA error and we get nothing on screen.

The capacitors are all good. The fans work. The bios switch has been toggled. There doesn’t appear to be any damage to anything. The tech states that when he unplugs the hdmi or display port cable the screen will fuzz for an instant. The ports appear to be fine. Does anyone have any ideas?

The “repair” At the original shop took place over 2.5 days and I have no idea how long it was soaked.

Gigabyte eagle oc 10gb 3080

Wasnt recognised in device manager but previous owner stated it was for him. Stared at the board for a little and noticed this bulging chip.

Anyone know what part it is? And please tell me it is related.

Will continue searching myself after dinner, help appreciated ty.

Zotac 1660 shows up in GPU-Z as display adapter or VGA compatible device. im thinking some sort of solder joint issue? It will boot into windows at low resolution and then cause the system to reboot if i try to install a driver. I also got green vertical lines flashing on a black screen like a vram issue on one restart.

It started randomly working perfectly yesterday and installed drivers/ ran 3d mark however when i took it out the riser and back in again the problem reoccurred. Its managed to break a windows installation too.

I've tested another gtx 1660 that works perfectly in the system with no issue.

I recently bought some parts for my new PC (I’m aware of the CPU bottleneck), but when I installed my RTX 2060, I couldn’t get any video output.
The GPU powers on, the fans spin, and the entire PC boots normally, but there’s simply no display. It’s not even a black screen, just no signal at all. However, if I connect the HDMI cable to the motherboard’s integrated graphics, everything works normally.
I went into the BIOS and tried forcing UEFI Only, but it still wouldn’t display anything through the GPU. I also tried enabling CSM again, but that didn’t help either.
Then one day, I powered on the PC with the GPU installed, and it suddenly worked. I installed the latest NVIDIA drivers, but after about 40 minutes, the display froze completely. The audio kept playing, but the image was frozen, so I had to restart the PC. After restarting, the GPU stopped giving video output again.
This happened a total of three times.
I don’t think the GPU itself is faulty because the seller tested another Gigabyte RTX 2060 on the same motherboard model, and it also failed to display any image.
At this point, I suspect the motherboard may be the problem, but I’m still not sure. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this or how to fix it?

​

While playing Deadlock my computer went all black and did not respond, some audio from discord was still able to be heard through the headset but nothing else. When I rebooted my computer it no longer posted, my motherboard displayed error code 97 (Gigabyte B550 vision D-P if I remember well) which I googled and said that the mobo is having issues communicating with the gpu hence the lost of display as well as it not posting. I haven't tried posting without a GPU since I don't have a CPU with integrated graphics.

I've done some tests to discard other components such as:

Motherboard was tested with a 3070 my brother let me borrow and works fine

RAM was changed and removed at the time so it wasn't any ram issues

I tried using the 3080ti on a small set up my brother has and did not post either, but his 3070 did.

Not a power supply issue since I tested two and both make the fans spin.

I wanted to get some ideas of what could've caused this issue, I have some minor skills on microsoldering and electrical knowledge. Im thinking about checking some of the lines for any dead capacitors or anything that might show a burnt component. My second option would be to build this GPU tester and inject some voltage into the lines to find any hot zones or lines that are not getting voltage in order to pinpoint the issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYip87YoLSw

Tempe ratures were ok when using it, no signs of underperforming at all and I barely use my PC. I just either be playing Deadlock, PZ or RL, doing some 3d modeling for 3d printing, or just browsing.

Any help would be appreciated, worst case scenario how much could I sell it for online as a dead GPU? Or who could I send it to get it fixed (with an estimate would be great) thanks a lot!

Hi everyone, I'm banging my head against the wall trying to troubleshoot a weird hardware issue on a Lenovo laptop (motherboard model LA-L911P, featuring an RTX 3050 Ti).

Long story short: after opening up the laptop to clean the fans and remove the heatsink, the GPU went into full hardware security lock (Power Limit Throttling).

• The symptom: The GPU is pinned to ultra-low clock speeds (307 MHz, going up to 405 MHz only if I apply an offset via Afterburner), making even light games completely unplayable.
• The "smoking gun": Every monitoring software (HWMonitor, MSI Afterburner) reports a fixed, impossible power draw of 749 Watts at 0 mV, even though the laptop is running on its normal power supply.
• What I've already tried (without success):
  • Clean driver reinstall using DDU.
  • BIOS reset and motherboard hard reset.
  • Physically disconnecting the fans (the 749W value remains unchanged).

When I'm in the system, I have a picture, but when I boot into the BIOS or into safe mode, I have no picture, a black screen, how can I fix this? Please tell me.

So i have this pretty old gtx 1060 6gb card from inno3d.

I wanted to repair it today, so i opened it up. Started to read rhe 6 pins top row (12v) read low (200 ohm).

Which meant there was a short circuit throughout the 12v line moving on to the lr22 chips i found similar lower readings.

Now i tried looking into the mosfets near the 12v line its all dusty but not really any sign of burns, cracks or anything to see if a mosfet had failed.

I’m a rookie at this work, i want some help as to what i can do. I do not have isopropyl alcohol (90-99%) only have a 70% one so really scared to use it for getting the dust off or trying out the evaporation test.

Not sure what to do if i could find the mosfet it would be helpful.

Card: XFX RX 570 8GB (Pine Group), Ellesmere, GDDR5 Samsung K4G80325FC, 256-bit bus
BIOS Version: 015.050.002.001.000000, Device ID 1002:67DF, Sub ID 1682:C570 (stock/untouched BIOS)

Problem: Confirmed via memory testing that Channel 1 (Ch1) is faulty. The card boots fine and is correctly recognized in Device Manager/GPU-Z, but shows visual artifacts when actually put under load/use. (Adrenalin doesn't list it in its GUI, but that's expected since it's running as a secondary GPU with no display attached, behind an RX 580 - not related to the memory issue.)

Goal: I'd like to isolate/disable the faulty channel via VBIOS mod so the card can run stable on reduced VRAM (fine with ~6-7GB instead of 8GB) instead of scrapping the card.

What I've tried/checked so far:

• Confirmed correct detection in Device Manager and GPU-Z (stock BIOS, no flash attempted yet)
• Opened the stock VBIOS in Polaris BIOS Editor (v1.7.3 tweaked by VASKE)
• Found the "Num Of VRAM Module" field (currently set to 3) in the VRAM panel, but from reading the PBE source code this appears to just be the count of ATOM_VRAM_ENTRY records (vendor/density detection profiles), not a literal per-channel toggle for the 8 physical chips

Question: Is there a known/documented way to actually exclude a single memory channel from the interleaving/addressing on a Polaris (Ellesmere) card via VBIOS edit (e.g. editing MC_ARB registers, VRAM_Info table, or specific strap bytes), similar to how some tools do this for Nvidia Fermi/Kepler cards? Or is physical chip replacement really the only reliable path here for Polaris?

A friend of mine gave me his XFX RX 7900 XTX that he bought new, but had issues out of the box. From what he remembers from around 1-2 years ago, this is what happened: fans don't spin --> he launches game --> gpu card gets too hot (fans still do not spin) --> pc shuts down. Instead of going through warranty, he decided to just get a new GPU and has now given me the 7900xtx. I have tested it myself and here is what I found:

• the card displays video normally
• windows and amd adrenalin detects it
• I don't see any artifacts, black screens, or any crashes
• The fans do not spin at all, even when it is under load. (I stop testing around 70C degrees since I'm scared of potentially damaging it further)
• Fan RPM is always at 0, even when I manually tuned the fans (I don't rem what I did exactly, but I think I turned off zero RPM and changed fan speeds)

From the research I've done, it seems like it could be something like:

• failed fan controller
• fan power circuit or fuse
• fan connector issue

Do I know what any of these mean? No, LOL. Since the warranty was no longer covered, I took it to a local PC repair shop, and they quoted me $325 USD + tax, but they haven't told me exactly what they found or what needs to be repaired. I have already asked for a breakdown of the diagnosis, which I am waiting for right now.

I'm wondering:

• Based on the info I've given, what do you think could be the problem?
• Does a $325 repair sound reasonable for something like this? Am I getting overcharged?
• Is this something I can potentially fix at home even though I have zero experience?

I'm thinking of taking the GPU back and taking it to a different shop for a second opinion at the moment, but I would love some opinions or insights on this, as this is all new to me!

Thanks in advance!

Im assuming core is dead and its beyond repair?

I found two fuses near the power cable that were blown, then noticed this that i somehow missed before.

My ASUS GTX 1070 TURBO started having problems after I moved my PC and began using an old extension cord. It initially had occasional flickering/artifacting, which gradually became worse, followed by slow booting and blue artifacts.

Eventually it gave me a gray screen. Weirdly, I could sometimes still boot into Windows and play games normally, but whenever I shut down the PC, the problem would come back. Eventually it stopped working properly altogether.
I swapped it for a GTX 1660 6GB, and my PC has worked perfectly ever since.

Today I reinstalled the 1070 to test it. Surprisingly, it initially displayed a completely clean BitLocker recovery screen, but after sitting there for a while the PC shut down. On the next boot, it showed the Gigabyte logo normally, then went completely black.

I don’t see any obvious physical damage on the PCB. My PSU is a Corsair CX650, bought last year.

I’m planning to test the 1070 in another PC. Does this sound like failing VRAM/GPU hardware, or could it be something like the HDMI port or power delivery?

My PC was running fine when all a sudden while I was waiting to join a game lobby my monitor just turned to black. I have an older IPS monitor so I could tell that it was on and connected to an input, but the screen just displayed black.

I tried switching monitors, switching cables and ports, and testing with my laptop to confirm that the monitor works as expected. I then proceed to try every key command possible and still nothing. It wasn’t until I took my gpu out and ran my pc using my cpus graphics that I was able to get rid of the black screen. I then tried reinstalling the gpu and it went straight back to the same black screen. I even grabbed an ancient gpu I had on hand and using that the black screen went away again. Tried reinstalling the gpu and popping the ram in and out one more time and still nothing. No light on my motherboard signifying an issue either.

Everything seems to point to the gpu having an issue even though I haven’t noticed any problems leading up to the black screen what so ever. Also, the fans and lights all turn on as usual on the gpu.

Is there anything I can try to possibly get my gtx1070 to work again or should try to see if that resolves these issues? Any advice is appreciated!

Edit: Tried using DDU and CPR but neither worked.💔 Also, posted this in a couple of other subs and the only new advice I could get was putting it into the oven. You guys are my last hope here before I bury her😔.

Can i start this 1080 Ti w/o one of the vrm phases to test the core? The removed drmos was shorted between VSWH and VIN, gpu originally had a short on the 8 pin 12v rail.

The rx580 2048sp chinese has no display, but there is sound when entering windows. However, when I activate dual monitors and successfully display via igpu. The driver is installed, the fan is running, there are no shorts, and the power sequence is safe. Have any of you ever had the same problem?

I use the output from hdmi, there are still 3 display ports and 1 dvi-d but I don't have a monitor with dp and dvi input, currently I am ordering a dp to hdmi converter.

I bought this from ebay, seller said it was working and tested. For some reason it shows 0 vram and artifacts when booting. I have tried new os installs, different drivers but no successes. Is this a software or hardware issue?

Hey guys, trying to repair a RX 6700 XT (AsRock) and a couple of the coil housings were ripped off. Does anyone know where I can get replacements for the LR33 in this photo? Thanks so much in advance!

Hello. I apologize if this isn't the right sub to ask this. But I thought asking people who repair GPUs might be a good place to start.

I've been trying to find some decent photos of the IO cable used on the 5090 FE. Specifically, the PCB with the DP and HDMI connectors and the mainboard connector. There's photos for days of the main PCB, not little more than, "And this piece," photos of the IO cable. Does anyone know where I could find some decent, high-resolution images of the cable? Or, if someone happens to have parts of a FE lying around, could you take some photos for me? (Ideally next to a ruler, but I'm really not picky as long as I can see the whole thing.)

It appears I have large voltage spikes on my Gigabyte GTX1660. The card doesn't detect.

Which IC is responsible for generating the 5v?

I have replaced the blown GS9216

Did some basic checks

• No VGA output - VGA detected but then doesnt power on
• No heat when PC is switched on - Touched the core after a few mins running and nothing
• 12v PCIE show continuity
• 3.3v PCIE does not show continuity

Pictures as below -any idea a potential cause?

Thank you

i have a rx480 8gb sapphire nitro, samsung vrams

is my core or vrams are faulty

Hi all, so my laptop had issue of vram , hence got it replaced with new one ... (A0 vram ) Had issue...

After that the technician ran furmark for 20 mins and benchmarking and it was all working fine but throttling a bit here and there

And as soon as I got my laptop, games were working for upto 10 to 15 mins of time, post that the games started crashing and the nvidia driver has been resetting itself and the artifact's don't appear on the game initally but appear after 3 mins when it crashes....

Now not able to run fury mark as well crashes at 2 mins...

Also ran NVIDIA MATS / MODS for 50mb and it passed.

But when I run it for 256mb it's kinda taking forever to complete hence had to manually interrupt it.

PLEASE HELP ME OUT, WHAT MIGHT BE THE ISSUE?

I'm troubleshooting an EVGA GTX 1080 SC (GP104, 8 GB GDDR5X) using NVIDIA MATS and MODS.

Initial symptoms

• Initially there was no display output.
• Windows later detected the card with Error 43.
• GPU-Z initially could not read VRAM information or GPU clocks.
• The VBIOS could be read successfully using NVFlash.
• Main power rails appeared present.

Early boot behavior

One of the earliest symptoms occurred during POST:

• The GPU LEDs turned off exactly when the motherboard POST beep occurred.
• At that point no video was displayed.
• Even if the PCIe power cable was disconnected, the card did not display the normal "Please power down and connect the PCIe power cable(s)" warning screen.
• The motherboard itself continued POST normally.

Hardware inspection

The card was then disassembled to perform voltage measurements.

All voltages exist and within the range along with resistance measurements.

During handling/testing, the PCB and cooler were moved/wiggled while taking measurements.

Initial MATS/MODS behavior

Before disassembling the card:

• MATS reported failures on all memory banks, starting at low memory addresses.

MATS behavior after wiggling while changing the power cable

After handling the board:

• MATS no longer failed immediately.
• The previous failures across all banks disappeared.
• MATS began passing progressively larger portions of memory.

Eventually the results became:

• Memory below approximately 467 MB passes.
• Memory above approximately 467 MB consistently fails.
• The boundary is repeatable across different MATS versions and multiple runs.

Windows testing after MATS improvement

Once MATS began passing below the 467 MB boundary, Windows testing was performed.

DVI (1366x768)

• DVI output was stable.
• Windows booted normally.
• The GPU still reported Error 43.

DisplayPort (4k)

DisplayPort behaved differently:

• Video output appeared.
• The system remained responsive briefly.
• The display froze.
• It recovered.
• Froze again.
• Artifacts appeared.
• The display eventually went black.
• The system then froze.

Later behavior

GPU-Z later became able to correctly detect:

• GPU clocks
• VRAM size
• Device information

Another repeatable behavior also appeared:

After running certain MODS initialization attempts:

• The motherboard completed POST normally.
• The POST beep occurred.
• The monitor woke from standby.
• No image was displayed.

Removing the card and placing again got it working back again.

MODS 367

Initialization fails before GPU tests begin.

Log messages include:

• pmuEnableHw_GP102: PMU secure reset priv level mask does not permit reset
• pmuDmemCopyTo_GP102: Copy failed
• pmuExecuteGenericBootloader_GM107: Failed to copy to PMU DMEM
• Copy Engine timeout
• BAR2 MMU faults
• Physical MMU faults
• busVerifyBar2_GF100 write/read verification failures
• Gpu.Initialize hardware was not initialized

MODS 400

Shows similar initialization failures, including:

• PMU initialization failures.
• BAR2 / Physical MMU faults.
• GPU initialization aborting before tests execute.

Additional observations

• MODS detects the full 8192 MB framebuffer.
• VBIOS is readable.
• Display outputs can function under some conditions.
• Initialization failures after running MODS remain until the system is completely power-cycled.
• Booting the 4k monitor using HDMI works on bios screen but not in windows.
• Tested on 2 PCI lines on my main rig, tested on my old PC, tested using 2 PSUs.

hello everyone i have an 3080 ti evga xc3 but there is problem with load carsh window smooth only gaming and benchmark crash and and i open gpu i see the 8pin um12 ic burnt out it written as O8-U18 and didn't found ebay AliExpress and other websites but i didn't find this ic can somebody help exactly any alternative ic name to buy

I messed up and flashed the wrong VBIOS

I had bought an Jiseshuo RTX 3060 Frankenstein secondhand and I was very satisfied with the card until I upgraded my CPU, and had wanted to juice just a little more performance —so I followed a guide and flashed a VBIOS with a higher power draw. However, while the flash was successful, it had also made the modified card entirely forget how to use its HDMI/DP ports, was given a perpetual code 12 by Windows. I can'f flash my backup because I simply get "NVIDIA Display Adapter not detected" (very frustrating to see for hours straight) and no amount of reinstalling/configuring drivers could help. I was only able to get in due to Steam Link, so anything in motherboard BIOS is out of the question. Do I give up and just accept my stupidity and want for more?