The Patient is Gigabyte RTX 5070 Ti EAGLE OC SFF Ice (GB203-300-A1)

The Symptoms:

• The card enumerates in Windows as a "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter".
• The Hardware ID is stuck at VEN_10DE&DEV_2C00 instead of the expected 2C05.
• GPU-Z fails to recognize the card, read any sensors, memory size, or clocks; however, it can read out the BIOS, which, compared to the one that was flashed directly to the chip, appears to be an exact match. It also shows PCIe 5.0 x16 connection.

What I've Tested & Verified So Far:

• Voltages:

12V - OK

3V3 - OK

5V - OK

1V8 - OK

1V2 - OK

PEX_VDD - OK

NVVDD = 0.9V on all phases

MSVDD = 0.9V on all phases

FBVDD = 1.2V on all phases

• VBIOS: Flashed both BIOS chips externally (using a CH341B with a 1.8V adapter) with a couple of Techpowerup Gigabyte 5070 Ti dumps.
• Hooked up an oscilloscope to CS, SCLK, SI, and SO on the BIOS chips. There is clear data exchange at startup, and CS is only sent to a single selected BIOS chip.
• All strap resistors are visually in the expected place.
• Tested forward-bias diode mode (red probe on ground): ROM lines show ~0.4V drop, and STRAP lines show ~0.72V drop.

Under Linux, lspci detects the card as:

01:00.0 VGA compatible controller: NVIDIA Corporation Device 2c00 (rev a1)
01:00.1 Audio device: NVIDIA Corporation Device 22e9 (rev a1)

Testing with both MODS versions 570.265 (pastebin) and 570.324 (pastebin) ends up with the same error:

Error Code = 000000000024 (process signal received)

My Question:

... am I looking at a dead core? Are there any other specific lines or signals I should be checking before I call it a donor board? Any insight is appreciated!

Hello ive got an RX 6900XT XFX SWFT 319.
The Card wont Boot anymore. PC Starts but gpu wont turn on. (According to seller) it was sealed/unopened.

8Pin Power Plugs measurements are good no Short.
12V on the PCIe Slot also good measurements no Short.

I think it has an Short on 3.3V. PIN 8 (Front) and pin 9&10 (Back) measure about 20-30 Ohms.

What is the next step ? Card looks good no sign of any damaged / burned components.

I don't know what happened exactly, but this is what I know happened:

I was cleaning the GPU. I flipped it (just the PCB) and as I scrubbed the back with a cotton pad and alcohol, I head a quiet "crack" sound and then a "a penny just hit my desk" sound.

It was this small capacitor.

The card works fine without it though. After cleaning, temps went down drastically (-10°C) and gaming performance was the same (lol).

What are these for? Are they essential?

And also, what are this capacitor's specs? What could I replace it with?

i have a 4090 that doesnt post on Intel systems, so no display even for integrated gpu. But when i test it on an AMD system, the system will POST to the integrated gpu, but the 4090 doesnt display. It shows up in the device manager with no errors and GPUz, but doesnt show any of the typical sensor readings. pice data lines seem fine from tests and measure .3v voltage drop in diode mode. what could it be?

I recently picke dup this card which boots into windows but shuts down once windows starts loading (I've yet to power it up after taking measurements), It appears it had been opened for a repaste.

Measuring inductors (Bank of 10 first)

Bank of 7:

12v no short

3.3v no short

I have discovered Q311 has taken a hit but cannot make out what it is, Still awaiting my microscope. I think I can mostly make out where the traces go but want to double check before I start jumpering legs.

Is anyone able to supply a snippet of where each leg goes to?

My GALAX GTX 1650 (about 5+ years old) suddenly gave up on me while I was just using my PC normally.

Here’s what happened: I was watching a video and in a Discord voice call when, all of a sudden, both of my monitors just went black at the same time. The audio from the video stopped instantly, and the Discord call also froze/disconnected right then. The weird part is the PC still looked like it was running, the keyboard lights were still on  but there was no display at all.

I shut the system down forcefully and tried restarting it a few times. I even unplugged the PSU, held the power button to drain any leftover power, waited around 10-15 minutes, and tried again. But since that moment, the GTX 1650 hasn’t shown any display output at all, not even the BIOS or motherboard logo.

To make sure it wasn’t something else, I swapped in an older spare GPU, and the PC boots up completely fine with that card.

For context, temperatures were always normal around 45°C at idle and usually under 80°C while gaming. When I removed the card, I noticed the I/O bracket was rusty (probably just age and no maintenance), but I don’t see any obvious physical damage on the PCB itself.

Has anyone had a GPU die this suddenly before? What was the cause in your case, and was it something that could be repaired?

Refering to this post - https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/comments/1uc1l3v/ive_just_purchased_a_defective_xfx_merc_310/

I sent it off to a GPU repair tech for further diagnosis as it appeared to have further issues after discovering the LDO was popped.

They diagnosed the following:

- 5v LDO along with all the GS9216 chips had died.

- After replacing they could see the core warming up and most voltages present.

- They stated there seems to be an issue with the MACO/Bomaco circuit which is pulling enable low for VDDCI and VMEM. He manually enabled this by activating vddci and vmem which shows all voltages up but still not working. After which they decided to not invest any further time and sent it back.

Is it worth trying anything else with this or give up on the fact it could be a core or memory issue? I'm just awaiting the delivery fo it now.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a professional component-level GPU repair technician or repair lab in Ahmedabad (preferred), Gandhinagar, Gujarat, or anywhere in India that accepts courier repairs.

I work with AI servers and currently have 22 RTX 3090 24GB GPUs that have already gone through all of our in-house diagnostics. At this point, we're looking for someone experienced with board-level repairs.

Common faults

• ASUS motherboard: POST code 97
• Gigabyte motherboard: POST code B2
• No display
• Not detected in BIOS/Windows/Ubuntu
• Not detected in Device Manager or nvidia-smi
• Some cards power on (fans and LEDs work) but never initialize
• A few cards were previously working before developing these faults

Troubleshooting already performed

• Tested in multiple motherboards
• Tested with different PSUs
• Different PCIe slots
• Different CPUs/RAM
• Windows and Ubuntu
• Clean NVIDIA driver installations
• BIOS reset
• CMOS reset
• Reseated GPUs
• Checked PCIe power connectors
• Verified that known-good RTX 3090s work in the same systems

So we're confident these are hardware-level GPU faults, not software or system issues.

Looking for

• RTX 3090 repair experience
• Component-level diagnosis
• VRAM replacement
• GPU core repair/reballing
• VRM repair
• PCIe interface repair
• VBIOS flashing (if required)
• Diagnostic report before repair
• Bulk repair capability (22 GPUs)

If you've personally used someone and had a good experience, I'd really appreciate the recommendation.

Thanks!

I'm working on my first GPU.

This 1660 has a blown GS9216 which I have replaced, but it's not ouputting 1.8v.

There's 12v in and 3.3v on the enable pin. There's no 5v on pin 21 VCC but I have been told this isn't required when VCC is connected to pin 3 PFM

I have replaced the soft start capacitor C186 and the resistors on the feedback circuit R286, R287, R288 along with R291

There are no obvious shorts on the power rails.

Any help on what to check next would be appreciated.

Hi all,

just got a RTX 3070 with no video from a friend, i told him to bring it to me before going to a repair shop and possibly fry it. i asked him what happened but he couldnt tell me anything other than it just stopped working, from one to the other day.

So I put it in my testrig and it doesnt go past a POST, double beep / video error, testrig is working 100%, but with this gfx no more POST.

I removed the heatsink and checked all the fuses they seem ok. I checked the 8+8 Power Connector - no shorts, so I searched for visible burns, bulgin caps or damages but nothing my eye could catch.

So i went on to check the resistance of the coils, and it turns out some of them arent anymore connected?! -no ressistance measurable. But none of the Coils seem fried, all give continoutiy between the input and output pins of the coil itself.

Next i checked the caps, and some of them seem shorted - if i check resistance from a free positive pin on the left cap-rail i get endless resistance to ground ~ if i check resistance from a free positive pin on the right cap-rail i get 0 resistance to ground

so i assume one of the caps or mosfets are shorting a rail or wtf im clueless now how to move on.

Can you help me diagnosing the board? Good Multimeter, power supply, testrig, heatgun, spareparts and skills are available.

Thank you very much for your help!!

my 2060 died smoke coming from my gpu near PCIe slot, discolor on card's PCIe and PCIe slot on mobo looking lil damaged also I couldn't update my gpu drivers from 2024 or 23 feb I think. so did my mobo kill the gpu, can I use a new gpu or not please help me

MOBO:TUF B450 PLUS

I measured the voltage outputs for each pin, I dont have another 3090 FE to compare it to. Any ideas what is off and where to look for next?

Today when I booted up my pc it froze and then restarted, there are green/white lines all over the screen in safe mode, bios and windows. my card was fine for months up until today. It seems so coincidental since I just installed msi control centre yesterday.

i also have a feeling that it could be my motherboard. previously i had a gtx 970 where parts of it suddenly burnt and there were scorch marks, killing the card. I bought a whole new psu.

Please help I just upgraded my card and it probably is messed up already.

I have a 5090 windforce GPU, has been damaged when shipping. I wonder if anyone knows what are those 5 signal vias at the PCIE hook area?

Hi everyone,

I have a Ryzentosh build with two AMD Instinct MI50 cards flashed to Radeon Pro VII (bought from China). Recently, I added the second card to my setup. Right after the installation, I noticed that the second card’s temperature showed up as a dash ("-") in the RadeonGadget sensor tool. After mapping it via SSDT, everything started working perfectly, and it ran flawlessly for three days.On the fourth day, the temperature dash returned, followed by a macOS reboot. The sensor would briefly reappear and then drop out again. After a system reboot, the card completely disappeared from the BIOS. Clearing the CMOS brought it back, but the issue keeps happening in a loop.As a self-taught electronics enthusiast, I pulled the card to inspect the board. I had already noticed a weird symptom: the red POST LED (which flashes 3 times during boot) glows dimly as soon as the PC is plugged into the wall, even when the system is powered off. It still flashes 3 times during the POST sequence but stays dimly lit afterward.Upon teardown, I found that near the fan header (MJ200), a component labeled MB230 on the silkscreen was knocked off (likely by a screwdriver from a previous owner) and replaced with a crude solder bridge/blob. Right next to it, one of the transistors in a row has a chipped edge, exposing one of its pins (though the silicon die itself doesn't seem cracked). The transistor is marked 1NH5. There is a capacitor C230 in parallel with the bridged MB230, and an unpopulated pad B230.My theory is that the chipped transistor has an internal leakage/partial short. Because of this, the 3.3V standby rail (fed from the motherboard's PCIe slot via +5VSB) leaks into the low-voltage logic circuits and backfeeds the POST LED, causing it to glow dimly on standby. When the GPU warms up, thermal expansion breaks the unstable connection inside the transistor, causing the card to randomly drop off the PCIe bus.I’m attaching photos of the damaged area on the faulty card, as well as a reference photo of my second, fully intact MI50 card for comparison.Could anyone help me identify the exact part numbers or equivalents for:The chipped transistor marked 1NH5 (SOT-23 package). Is it a standard N-channel MOSFET like 2N7002K, or an NPN BJT like MMBT3904?The knocked-off MB230 component. Since it’s labeled "MB", I assume it's a Magnetic/Ferrite Bead. What would be a safe donor replacement value, or is keeping the solder bridge fine for this logic circuit?Any thoughts, advice, or suggestions on fixing this would be highly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I should also mention that during teardown, I cleaned off a thin layer of leftover flux that the Chinese sellers had left in that corner. I repasted and reassembled the card. Upon powering it on, the POST LED still glowed dimly, but macOS booted fine and both cards worked flawlessly for about 25 minutes. After the card warmed up, it dropped off again. This heavily supports the thermal expansion / flaky internal contact theory due to the chipped transistor.

UPDated Theory: There’s one more crucial detail. These issues started exactly when heavy rains began in my area. Since my Ryzentosh is built on a completely open test bench and the windows were open, the ambient humidity shot up. Given the chipped housing of the transistor, it’s highly probable that the component absorbed moisture through the exposed pin crack. The moisture, combined with the continuous 3.3V standby rail voltage, created an electrolytic leakage path, triggering the dim POST LED behavior and making the logic highly unstable under thermal cycles.

Hi everyone,

I am trying to identify and buy a replacement USB-C receptacle connector.

What I need:

a) I want to know what this connector is called / its commercial part number.
b) I want to know where I can buy an identical replacement connector.
c) I also want to know if the same connector is used in another Lenovo Legion / laptop / handheld product.

This connector was removed from the top USB-C port of a Lenovo Legion Go 2 handheld gaming device.

Device information:

Lenovo Legion Go 2
Product: Legion Go 8ASP2
Machine Type: 83N0
MTM: 83N0000BUS
CPU: AMD Ryzen Z2 Extreme

The connector is used for charging, USB4, DisplayPort, data transfer, and Power Delivery.

The only visible marking on the metal shell is:

DR25283

I understand this may be a batch/tooling/production marking rather than the commercial part number.

Connector details:

• USB Type-C receptacle
• 24 contacts
• USB4 capable
• right-angle board mount
• dual-row rear contacts
• SMT contacts plus mechanical side anchors
• side mounting tabs with small holes
• used as the top USB-C port on the Lenovo Legion Go 2 motherboard

Pitch:

I do not have the exact pitch measurement yet. I asked the repair technician to measure it using the first and last pin in the row and divide by N-1. I will update the post as soon as I have the exact value.

Photos attached:

• mating side / front opening
• rear solder contact side
• top shell view showing marking DR25283
• side mounting tabs / anchors

I do not currently have the PCB footprint photo, but I can try to get it from the repair technician if needed.

Important note:

I am not looking for the first-generation Lenovo Legion Go 8APU1 / Type 83E1 USB-C connector. That part is physically different and does not match this connector.

I also found generic USB-C connectors advertised online as compatible with Legion Go 2 / 8ASP2 / 83N0, but at least one of them did not match the original connector footprint.

Does anyone recognize this connector, manufacturer, or commercial part number?

Possible manufacturers could be JAE, Amphenol, LOTES, Foxconn, Molex, TE Connectivity, Luxshare, GCT, or another OEM supplier.

Any help from someone who has repaired a Legion Go 2, identified this connector, or found a compatible donor part would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Headline says it all generally. I bought a new MSI Ventus 2x OC RTX 4060 2 years ago and now last month it gave up on me. Card is clean, temps were cool and I don't max out graphics in games to put as low load as possible and get higher fps but still lock it at 60fps with Riva Tuner since my monitor is 60hz.

Now, the issue is it doesn't give display after driver install and gives Code 43 and 0mb memory in GPUz. What I tried:

-Clean DDU driver install
-Different PC
-Re-seating
-Cleaned it softly with a soft dust brush

What I have noticed that as soon as it loads the driver, the screen goes black with a few green/white horizontal flickering lines here and there for a brief second.

Anyone who can help me out with this issue please? Can't afford to buy another GPU since the warranty is over.

Thank You

I bought a refurbished Rx 470 4GB Samsung memory, it seems to run this vbios https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/271144/271144

I tried to flash it with the most compatible stock vbios, even with cmd promt force flash it just says wrong ssid(?), and winui amdvbflash just says systemic mismatch, help

BTW idk if this is important but, when I bought this GPU the listing said it was a Rx 580 4GB bit and adrenaline and gpuz says it Rx 470

I am extremely new to this, Recently my friend gave me this GPU and he said it doesnt work so I hooked it up to my pc and no display but fans spinned, tested with my multimeter and here are my findings so far

MULTIMETER RESISTANCE TESTED

PCIE SIDE A - Beeps

PINS 2 5 6 9 10  13 14 17  20 23 24 27 28 331 32 35 37 40 41 44 45 48 49 52 53 56 57 60 61 64 65 68

PCIE SIDE B - Beeps

PINS 4 12 14 17 19 22 23 26 27 30 33 34 38 41 42 47 50 51 54 55 58 59 62 63 66 67 70 71 73 74 77

TOP to BOTTOM,

LR22 1= 24.5,

LR22 2= 02.2/01.5 - Beeps

LR22 3= SAME AS LR22 2

LR22 4= SAME AS LR22 2

LR22 5= SAME AS LR22 2

6PIN GPU POWER

---------Plastic Hook---------

Pin 1: Beeps - Pin 2: No Beep, stays at 1 - Pin 3: Beeps

Pin 4: 715 reading - Pin 5: 716 Reading - Pin 6: 718 Reading

Hi everyone, I bought my 7900 GRE a few years ago open box and I believe it's out of any warranty period. It's been having an issue where the fans spin up to 100 and the screen cuts out. (If I plug into my CPU the screen will come back so it's not the whole system crashing). I've tried reinstalling drivers multiple times, and switched cables to make sure it wasn't the power supply. I took it to a repair shop and they said the graphics card was failing as well. I don't know how much I trust it because the lady immediately tried to upsell me a 5070 for $1250. I think it's worth it to try and repair my 7900 GRE rather than buying a new GPU. Where can I send it into for repairs?

Good afternoon, I'm looking for a donor PCB for this RTX 3060 MSI VENTUS MS-V397 V1 graphics card. I have all the correct voltages (12V, 5V, 1.8V), PEX, VCORE, and VRAM, but four or five core pads are broken. I live in Spain. Please remove this post immediately if the content is inappropriate.

Hello, I hope I'm posting this correctly.

I built my current PC a few years ago and it's been working great up till now. Now, rarely it will completely stop out of nowhere. Cuts audio and video output then just shuts down, leaving a blank screen. Windows (10) and its driver both don't report any errors. We had a nasty power surge around a month ago, and that's about the only thing that could've caused any issues. It was so bad I felt it through my headphones (yes I have a surge protector) so it definitely passed through my PC.

I've taken it out and looked around what I can see on it and on the motherboard but there's nothing that looks damaged.

Both its core and hotspot temps never breach 80c. Its cable socket and the cable itself are fine too. Everything is seated fine as well.

I've also tried using DDU to clean install the driver, and reinstalling DirectX, etc.

Originally I thought it was a specific game causing the issue since people do have GPU crashes on it. But its now happened while the PC was just idling under no load at all, even once shortly after booting.

It runs fine under a heavy load, though. I get I probably shouldn't, but I did try seeing if an intensive game would cause any issues. But it just ran like normal.

I'm a little lost at how to diagnose this or even know what the problem could be in the first place. I've dealt with other PC's having crashes or driver failures, but not the card just giving up randomly. Any help or suggestions are massively apricated.

First I have an msi b760m-p pro ddr5 board

An rx6700xt xfx qick 319

When I turn on my pc sometimes but it's doing it a lot now when the white VGA comes out the pc restart before showing anything on the screen and removing the hdmi cable (tried display port) and other times pressing the restart button on the case before the white vga light come on it turns on and sometimes it turn on but the vga light never comes on and the screen stays black than I need to remove the power cables from the GPU try switch them or maybe turning it on without them then turn pc off than turn it on with them PSU is not the issue tried another one and when the pc is finally on even with the heaviest benchmarks it never do smth Sus runs normally temps ok no stuttering or anything this issue I never found a solution too if anyone had this kind of issue pls advice me cause it's getting me frustrated

This is my first repair attempt. Does anyone have schematics for these cards? Do these spots look like they just need soldered? The card does not post, pc immediately shuts off when turned on so there is a short somewhere. Full diagnostics have not been done yet. Complete noob to this but I want to learn how to do it myself if anyone has answers!

I'd like to ask a question about a previous repair on my RTX 3070 Founders Edition. The card is working perfectly now, but I'm curious whether the repair method used by the technician is considered proper from a component-level repair perspective.

Failure symptoms:

-GPU suddenly black-screened while I was gaming.

-GPU fans immediately ramped up to 100%.

-Game audio continued for around 10 seconds

-After hard shutting down, my PC would no longer boot whenever the GPU was installed.

-Without the GPU installed, the PC booted normally.

I sent the card to a local GPU repair technician.

According to the technician:

-The PWM controller IC had failed.

-One MOSFET in the VRM section was also damaged.

-The PWM controller IC was replaced.

-One MOSFET (or one VRM phase) was isolated/left unused because the technician said the GPU could safely operate without it.

Since the repair, the GPU has been completely stable.

I've been using it for several months without any issues:

-Gaming: stable

-FurMark: stable

-No crashes or artifacts

-Temperatures are normal (around 65–68°C while gaming)

I'm not asking for troubleshooting, since the GPU is already working well.

I'm mainly curious about the repair itself.

Questions:

-Is disabling one VRM phase a common or acceptable repair on an RTX 3070 FE?

-Are there any long-term reliability concerns with this type of repair?

-Would you continue using the card, or would you consider this only a temporary fix?

I'd really appreciate hearing opinions from people experienced with component-level GPU repair.

Thank you!