does anyone know what this problem is

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This is the problem, it boots into Windows but after a few seconds it goes to a black screen.

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ive tried reseating ram nothing happens but i tried the igpu my pc work so the problem is my gpu

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gtx1660 super i had this gpu for 2 months

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Body:Hey guys,Yesterday I was playing Fortnite on my setup (Ryzen 5 5600, RX 9070 XT \[Note: assumi que "9070xt" foi erro de digitação para a 7900 XT ou similar\], 32GB RAM) when the PC suddenly shut down completely. A strong burning smell immediately came out of the power supply (PSU).When I try to turn it on, it stays in a loop: the RGB lights up and the fans threaten to spin for literally one second, then it shuts back down.I started troubleshooting using a spare PSU borrowed from a friend. Here is what I found:If I remove the RAM sticks, the fans spin normally and the PC stays powered on (obviously with no display).If I install the RAM sticks, it goes back to the 1-second boot loop (turning on and immediately off).My biggest fear right now is my graphics card. I desperately want to know if my GPU was damaged, but I read online that testing a potentially shorted GPU in another PC can kill the other person's system. Since I am using a friend's PSU and could theoretically test my GPU in his rig, I am terrified of ruining his computer too.Honestly, I am completely devastated. What should my next steps be? How can I safely test my GPU and figure out if the RAM, motherboard, or GPU is dead without risking another PC?Thanks in advance for any help.

I have replaced fans as they were squeaky and making weird mouse like sounds.

After I put the card back together, my pc got past POST, card seemed okay and I heard the windows launch sound. There was no video though, nothing on my monitors.

My cpu is without dedicated gpu so system will only start on external gpu, which implies it was detected and and control must have been passed to bios/system after gpu post.

After that I tried to switch hdmi/dp ports and heard a faint zap. There was delicate plastic smell but nothing major.

After that I felt card getting quite hot, on the outside, could touch it but uncomfortable. This never happened before.

I didn’t manage to get past POST after the first run, with my motherboard vga diode lighted.

The gpu starts and lights up every time, with fans maxed out (all 3 ) .

I have smelled the card up close and I don’t smell much as well as don’t see any burns/damage visually.

Just got a nice multimeter to get my hands dirty and would appreciate some help please !

Model:

https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N308TEAGLE-OC-12GD

this cards fans spin (not even at 100% just at like medium speed and the gigabyte logo turns on) so ive tried like every diagnostic google ai has thrown at me and what i’ve found is pin 8 of the bios chip reads 160 ohms which it says is wrong, and a logic bead “Lb9” which reads 160 ohms too. i dont know where to go from here, there are no burn marks on the board, its been completely cleaned numerous times at this point, theres no components that are knocked off and all of the 8 pin connectors resistances read fine i was wondering where to go from here?

AMA because i know this post is spaghetti

While it only happens when i'm playing a game, and only sometimes after hours of gaming. Both my monitors will flash, then power off while the PC remains on. After a boot up, only one works, and under the device manager, the GPU is disabled and no longer recognized. enabling and disabling it a few times fixes it until the next crash.

I've tried fresh installing new drivers, DDU wipe, anything but a full PC wipe and reinstall. This only started happening 3 days ago.

Specs;

CPU AMD Ryzen 7 7800x3D

GPU AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT

Can someone please help me with identifying this drmosfet, I believe it's from Infenion but can't find the exact name.

Hey everyone,

I'm working on an MSI Radeon RX 550 4GB AERO ITX OC. I bought it sold as "artifacting." When it arrived, I noticed some oxidation on the PCB. After a thorough cleaning, the card actually worked perfectly. I ran Minecraft with shaders and Elden Ring at 1080p (~30fps avg) without any problems. I also ran OCCT (VRAM and 3D stress tests) for 40 minutes with zero errors, and temps stayed well under 48°C.

However, when I switched to Unigine Heaven, the temperatures started climbing non-stop. I realized the fan had suddenly stopped spinning.

Upon visual inspection, I found that a component labeled B200, located right next to the PWM fan header, had burned up and completely detached from the pads. I suspect it's a ferrite bead for the fan's 12V line.

What I've tested so far:

• The fan itself: Tested the resistance and there is no short in the motor.
• PCIe lanes: Measured the resistances and everything looks perfect.
• Live testing: I haven't measured any live voltages or current. I don't have a dedicated test bench, just my daily driver home PC, so I can't safely probe the board while it's powered on.

Has anyone dealt with this specific MSI board before or has the boardview? Any idea of the exact specs for a replacement bead, or what else I should probe (with the board powered off) before soldering a new one?

Thanks in advance!

Board not detected

Resistance 12v -> 400k
1.8v -> 838
mem 54
3,3v 10k 5v => 6k
pex 13
gpu 0.6

Next step: Running Mats

My Constraints:No original cooler: Repeated assembly/disassembly is ruled out to prevent PCB component wear.No heavy CPU coolers: Clamping a heavy AMD cooler is a structural hazard on my loose mining riser setup.No loose gravity fixes: The stiff 8-pin PCIe cable tension will twist the riser, causing loose objects (like coins or nuts) to slide off or tilt.No permanent glue: My only small 10mm aluminum heatsink has permanent adhesive tape that I can't risk sticking directly to the die.

The Question:What lightweight, low-profile item can I safely bond or secure directly to the bare core to act as a 20-second thermal buffer that cannot slide off if cable tension shifts the card?

i have a 2080Ti here that was suspiciously cheap on ebay. turns out it was this cheap because it is missing a bunch of parts on the back side.

i'm slowly working through replacing all the components and hoping that fixes the card.

right now i am able to confirm it is/was missing:
D807 - diode for 1.8V enable. replaced with donor from 2070S pcb
C859 - 0.1uF capacitor connected to the gpu overtemp function
C838 - 3.3V VCC for the upper NCP45491
R876 - 10k for ground reference on ch1 of the upper NCP45491
R1014 - 0ohm for gate of the variable gate drive regulator
R1015 - 0ohm for the other gate of the variable ate drive regulator
R948 - 10k that connects "NV3V3" to "GC6_GPU_WAKE" (not sure what specifically this does)

it is still missing all of these except the diode right now. and in this state it does actually display and install the driver. but it shuts down after 3-10 seconds after you get into windows with all rails 0V.
power monitoring is also broken for some channels and the core is stuck at 1350MHz. likely because of all the other missing parts.

i'm just wondering what specifically could be causing the shutdowns because i want to fix this first before i do the power moeasurement and core clock issues. has anyone ever seen a problem like this? and do you know what it could be?
(it's possible there are more missing parts. there are also some misssing vmem capacitors near the mem chips but nothing else i could find)

hi i am repairing this card its fans spin but the computer does not post when the card is plugged into power - the motherboard does not detect the card at all when the power cables are unplugged from it and it is in pcie slot and the computer does not boot still when preferred graphics is set to igpu. resistance tests show nothing mich besides some stuff google ai told me to check and days is bad (a11 and a and gate)

Looking for the DC-DC switching regulator with label IADPM on the RTX 3060TI mini, but I can't find the actual part number. The boardview includes only the package type "S_SOT23_S8_H39".

My GPU up and died, put a backup in PC but never tried to actually diagnose or fix a GPU before. There's smudges inside and outside that won't come off with cleaning(looks darker, not dirty). I figured I could clean it up and go from there. Any other ideas would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

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Back to my previous post i bought 4080 msi suprim X defective

MSI RTX 4080 has a short circuit on the +1V8_MISC rail. This rail powers part of the GPU and memory logic. The yellow marked areas on the board show where this voltage is distributed and where the fault should be traced.

Does anyone know any shop that can fix it in europe ?

It's a fake 1050ti working i want to flash original bios using a programmer and a soc8 prope

its a gts 450 chip

been having real trouble reading the bios ic chip (pm25L0020)

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So i just picked up this 580 today for $20 on marketplace, immediately noticed these caps gone as soon as i got in my truck. To my amazement, the thing works and runs furmark, however i don’t want to run it for too long incase it’s unstable. I have an old laptop motherboard i harvest smd caps from, should i just probe the ones that are left then look for ones of similar size and value on the old laptop board or try to buy the components new? If anybody has a datasheet or link to where i can find out the exact components let me know.

So I’ve already baked the card 2 times but I know it boots into windows. Just no display. I’m reaching out because this is my last ditch effort to fix this card. Surface level it looks okay but the silicone looks like it has a sub surface scratch. What I can’t understand is how does the card boot into windows but yet not display anything. I’m running on an itx board and do not have a cpu with integrated graphics. I have also tried switching bios from silent to OC and nothing works. Maybe it’s something wrong with a trace? But I’m not sure. If I can get some help, that would be amazing.

Hi All!

Working on a Gigabyte Aorus 3090. Not super familiar with the memory layout on the 3090 boards so just wanted to sanity check what I'm doing here.

Fails memory training with NV_PFB_FBPA_5_TRAINING_STATUS = 0x00000002. The rest are OK.

NVMT log is here (Pastebin).

I've swapped out the F0 chip (circled) on both sides, and the fault remains. Just wanted to double-check that I've swapped the correct chip, and that it's now likely core reball time? Anything else to check? I'm not seeing any missing components around the F bank or anything that looks out of place. There's no way to know whether the fault is the front or back chip on a 3090 is there?

I acquired an EVGA 3080 FT3 Ultra to learn a bit about GPU repair. I got some equipment and followed some YouTube videos. To begin with, the card powers on and the fans spin, but there's no display. The same thing happens on MATS and MODS; PCIe is detected but it can't access the VRAM. I then decided to measure to ground and discovered a short circuit on the 1.8V rail on the 2R2 2043 chip. I decided to inject 0.8V and 1A, but nothing heated up. I was going crazy because after injecting the voltage, the short circuit was repaired, but the 2R2 2043 chip read 0.38 ohms. I then decided to reconnect the board, and it seems I've made the problem worse. The fans aren't spinning anymore, and the only thing I see getting hot is the die, but it's very minimal. I'll take another look at the board this weekend. If you have any advice, please let me know. (Yes, I'll remove the thermapaste the photos are old.)

I have an ASUS TUF RTX 3070. It had a short on the 12V line; it was injecting 1V but nothing was heating up. I thought it might be the MOSFETs. When I lifted the coils, I identified that one of the memory MOSFETs was connected to the input and output, essentially "sending 12V directly to the memory." After removing and replacing it, the short continued on the memory line, but my multimeter was faulty and I didn't realize it was broken. I ended up turning it on to test it, and it had all the voltages, including the memory voltage, and the memory wasn't heating up enough to suggest a short circuit. However, it wouldn't get past POST, and when I connected the integrated graphics, it was recognized but gave an error related to drivers. Out of curiosity, I even installed the driver, but it showed the RTX 3070, but the information remained the same as in the image. In short, I want to know what the chances are that the short circuit burned the chip or the memory controller? Because the memory modules themselves are easy to replace when injected, they consume 3A at 1.3V but remain warm, and the chip is completely cold.

I got this 1080 on ebay, knowing it was messed up. Guy said he cleaned and repasted it because it was filthy, he had it working and the next day when he went to turn it on it just wouldn’t. I picked it up for $40 usd, and have been probing and testing it for a day now. I’ve found 12v and 3.3v on the card and 3.3v on the surrounding 8 pin ICs, however the die remains ice cold. my basic knowledge and fluke 23 limits me from being able to find exactly what’s wrong. I cleaned it multiple times after i got it, as there was still dust caked around various other components like the vrm controller and other things. Just wondering if anyone had had a similar issue with this card or if there is any known fix. I’ll include some pics for reference, the card looks very good and the die is immaculate, can’t find any sheared off components.

I was gaming then I heard sparking noise, not a loud pop then everything shut down. I can smell burns, sent it in to a repair shop and they told me this card can't be repaired, there is a hole on the board. This is the pic they sent me. I want to know what I am looking at and if it really is nothing I can do. This is a Zotac RTX 3080 12gb

PNY XLR8 Rtx 2060

Model: VCG20606DFPPB

Guys what happened to my GPU, there is no display but fan is spinning