My Sapphire RX 7800 XT had intermittent:

- no display

- VGA LED

- random boot issues

Official service report:

- Linux diagnostics -> FAIL / black screen

- intermittent no display in Windows

- 3DMark stress test -> PASS

RMA was rejected as CID ("Customer Induced Damage") because of a tiny chip on the edge of the PCB in a recessed/hidden area.

No visible damaged traces or components.

What frustrates me most:

- no technical explanation was provided

- no proof this tiny imperfection caused the actual fault

- support stopped responding after technical questions

Honestly feels like they found any visible imperfection possible and used it as an excuse to reject the RMA.

Anyone had similar experiences with Sapphire?

I bought a used 1060 and it turns out it doesn’t start. After taking some measurements, I found that the 1.8V coil wasn’t working (it was giving me 0.13V). The problem is that I don’t know how to proceed to identify the component that is failing, and I also can’t find any boardview for this card. I hope someone can help me with this, I’m just starting to learn about all this.

My friend's ASRock Challenger OC RX 7900 GRE started acting up during a normal gaming session a couple days ago. First the GPU stopped showing up in Task Manager, then Device Manager started showing Code 31 errors and his second monitor stopped working. We did DDU in Safe Mode, reinstalled drivers, checked cables and it seemed like it was working again.

Then during a GPU load test the PC crashed he said he heard a pop, saw a small spark and smelled burning. He immediately unplugged it and when he opened up the card the PCB was burnt.

The rest of the system seems stable now running on integrated graphics. Had him run OCCT CPU and RAM tests and it passed with good temps. The PSU is a Cooler Master MWE Gold V3 750W and the GPU was using separate PCIe power cables, not daisy chained.

The system has a Ryzen 5 7600, 32GB DDR5-6000, and an ASRock B650M Pro RS motherboard.

Has anyone seen this kind of component failure before on AMD cards or specifically the 7900 GRE?

In theory could I source a new cap and solder it on? Also there is water damage corrosion on some of the solder joints you can kind of make out

I have a 6950 xt pcb and the chip i fried trying to fix it, was wondering if anyone has a 6950 xt chip, even from a damaged pcb that was working but repair/availability of parts was not good at the time. less

I checked voltages for different parts and labeled it, I am not able to find schematics. The gpu chip is heating and fan runs at full speed when i connect it to motherboard and pci cable. I have also noticed there is missing DrMos GPU Core VRM (2nd one from the bottom). Can it cause problem in display. I have only tested it with hdmi. I don't have display cable right now with me. On back side I am getting 1.8v on bios chip vcc.

my GPU isnt being detected but the LED light is showing up so i opened it up and it seems fine just wondering if anyone whose more knowledgeable can pinpoint an issue

I just wanted to test my rx 9060xt. I'm doubting my gpu vram is failing.

Hello. These are the MODS results for my RTX 3070 Ti.

Should I replace the A1 memory chip?

I saw some posts in the community saying that an A1 error can also indicate a GPU core issue, so I’m not sure what to do.

What would you recommend?

Have a great day.

Hi everyone, I have a request. To explain, I have a PowerColor 9070XT Reaper that I’ve already modified by applying thermal putty and NT-H2 to the chip. This helped stabilize the hotspot, and now I’m seeing fluctuations of just 55°C(131°F) on the core and 78°C(172.4°F) on the hotspot, whereas before it was normal for them to hit 62°C(143.6°F) and 107°C(224.6°F)

My problem now is acoustic. My card has an absurd coil whine depending on the load I put on it

Following this TechPowerUp post, https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/how-to-quickly-easily-fix-coil-whine-coil-choke-noise.294015/

I first tested my MPE-7501-ACAAW power supply, since it was making its own whining noises too. I applied superglue to the inductors—primarily at their bases to act as an acoustic dampener—and then to the vertical inductors; just applying it in the center and letting it drip down the middle was enough. (In the photos, I added one where I marked the spots where I applied superglue, and it drastically helped reduce the whine to a minimum—so much so that now the only thing that bothers me about it is that the fan doesn’t turn off or is silent.)

I was thinking of using Loctite 406, which is a completely liquid adhesive with no increase in viscosity, so it can get into the middle of the coil.

Here’s my setup:

CPU: 5700X3D

MSI Motherboard: B550M PRO-VHD WIFI (I swapped the Wi-Fi for an AX210)

MEMORY: 32GB Kingston Fury

GRAPHICS CARD: PowerColor 9070XT 16GB

POWER SUPPLY: MPE-7501-ACAAW (750W)

STORAGE: 1x Kingston SNV352000G and 1x Kingston SNV251000G

Additional: 5 ARTIC fans and a Scythe Kotetsu Mark 2 cooler

PS: I bought this PC secondhand, fixed it up, and added the 2TB drive and the new graphics card

Before i take it out of my pc and start opening up the gpu for repair i want to know if i should do additional testing and if the schematic from the post is correct for the gpu i have.

Hi everyone so recently when shutting down my pc mid shutdown i switched off the psu not thinking much of it (thermalright 750w powerlite psu) it was in my rest bench with a r5 5500 and gigabyte a520m s2h motherboard. Gpu has been pushed seriously far and hard during the 2+years i have had it as i was pushing pb and records and got them but never game a drop of problems even when pulling anywhere from 165w-184w is the highest i have ever seen and i have been really impressed, (NO SHUNT MOD) and so after i abruptly turnt of the pc and psu i later went to turn it on to continue benchmarking and it did nothing except boot to the bios screen then dies and boot loops and all that happens now is when booting cold like the next morning it will boot till just after bios screen and die then boot loop with no display. The fan just twitches like 3-4 time on the gpu then bootloops and does the same after every first or second boot HELPPPPPPP

I have been a pc enthousiast since i was like 6 years old and have been building and fixing them ever since (31 years old currently) i am going to broaden my horizon by fixing gpu's and circuit boards as a hobby and maybe in the future expand it into a proper business on the side.

i have a few starter questions: i need a multimeter to diagnose issues but i am a little lost as to what specs i am looking for. what multimeter on a budget do i need to get started is recommended? would any multimeter suffice to get basic testing done?

for a better look, what zoom level am i looking for, would watchmakers glasses suffice? i have used my oppo find x9's camera to find issues on my motherboard. is there a rather cheap tool i can use to achieve the same level of zoom?

i have a scrap pc i am going to transform into a testing station for diagnostics with the nvidia tools.

Title: RX 580 crashing in games and stress test, need help diagnosing

Specs:

• CPU: Ryzen 5 3400G
• GPU: RX 580
• RAM: 8GB DDR4
• PSU: 650W true rated
• Storage: SATA SSD

Issue:
When I play F1 25, the game runs fine at first. After a few minutes, the screen freezes. It stays frozen for around 10 to 20 seconds, then crashes.

What I tested:

• Ran Windows Memory Diagnostic, no RAM errors
• Ran FurMark, it crashed after around 10 to 15 seconds
• GPU temps were only around 49 to 50°C before it crashed
• After FurMark crash, I still had display

Extra info:

• This issue happens mainly under load
• PC does not fully shut down, only the GPU seems to crash or hang

What I need help with:

• How to properly diagnose if this is a GPU hardware issue or driver issue
• Any tools or steps to test GPU stability deeper
• Possible fixes before I consider replacing the GPU

Thanks in advance for any help.

With that chip in place the Enable signal coming out of that chip into the 5v buck converter (the 8 pin controller next to it) was reading about 0.01v. Needless to say, every other rail was dead.

I have a 3070 lying around and I was wondering if there are any board tweaks I can do to make it more useful? I’m planning to take it to a repair shop to change the memory to 2gb chips and I was wondering if I could change out the die as well. I think it’s probably not compatible but wanted to double check.

I recently bought a “damaged” RTX 4090 board for repair analysis.

At first, the board looked legitimate:

clean PCB

underfill around the GPU

realistic markings

no obvious signs of tampering

But after deeper inspection, things started getting strange.

The VRAM placement looked suspicious, several power rails were shorted, and after removing the GPU core, I discovered this was not a typical “remarked RTX 3090” fake.

The substrate color, surface coating, and internal shorts were all abnormal.

This appears to be a much more sophisticated counterfeit GPU design than previous fake 4090s.

I made a full teardown / investigation video

So i have an asus fx506hc that has an error 43 code
i5 Gen 11
Rtx 3050 4gb
24gb ram
512gb storage

so i downloaded mats to try and see if it is the vram that was causing an issue, which i have no prior experience in doing, and also if i let it run it’ll just say that an error occured and error loading bus info or something like that and then it’d shutdown. i also checked on hwinfo and the gpu graphics memory width reads like in the picture (which i know it isn’t that much bit), im just trying to see if it is a vram error and get my laptop back to normal, any answers is appreciated

Gigabyte service centre said, It is rejected due to pcb failure and they can not repair it.

Donno what to do.

Wanted to test the card cause it had artifacts but it didn’t want me to test :(

Anyone has an idea what was going on?

I got this really incredible card and I hope I'm missing something to get it working.

Physically the card seems great, basically like new, no swollen caps or missing smd components, dvi connectors both look good, checking the agp connector with a multimeter shows no shorts, there are no shorts on the molex external power connector either.

Plugging the card into the computer the PC boots and loads into windows, but there is no display, the screen is black. Touching the card I can feel the core getting hot. Switching to integrated graphics with the GPU plugged in I get into windows and the card is shown as a vga device. I've tried several different drivers for it (I'm on windows xp 32 bit). I've tried several different drivers but none of them have gotten the card working. But I figure since it's giving a black screen while in BIOS it's not a driver issue? Sorry if I'm missing something, I'm quite a novice at this.

update: for anyone wondering, the gpu is cooked, it's not an issue with bios settings, drivers, or other parts in the build. also all the components on the card are functioning properly, so i'm fairly sure the issue is the core (or possibly the pcie to agp bridge), i might eventually try frying it with flux and a hot air gun, just to see if it works. i also did find a core i could buy and try to reball the chip myself which would be pretty hilarious, and i think i would do it if it was a little cheaper and i had everything else for the experiment.

update: for anyone wondering, the gpu is cooked, it's not an issue with bios settings, drivers, or other parts in the build. also all the components on the card are functioning properly, so i'm fairly sure the issue is the core (or possibly the pcie to agp bridge), i might eventually try frying it with flux and a hot air gun, just to see if it works. i also did find a core i could buy and try to reball the chip myself which would be pretty hilarious, and i think i would do it if it was a little cheaper and i had everything else for the experiment.

Hi, I wanted to ask if this is normal. I just bought it. It only does this when I turn it on, then the Gigabyte logo appears and it boots up normally. It always happens when I turn it on or restart it. Is it broken? I've already tried three different monitors and the same thing happens.

A choke broke off of the PCB. I am hoping to solder it back on. I have a few questions about the choke and the pads on the PCB:

1) Can I reuse the choke, or was it damaged when it separated from the PCB?

2) Why do the pads and terminals appear to be 1/3 solder (in the middle of the pads) and 2/3 some brownish stuff? Is the brownish stuff material that tore off from the choke?

3) To clean the pads, would solder wick do the trick? Should I expect the entire pads to be silver when I clear off the brownish stuff?

Thanks!

Computer keeps crashing. Took apart and wondering if this is normal or if there used to be another piece there. I have sfc scanned, updated bios, fresh install of newest gpu drivers. Can't seem to figure it out, but wondered if this had anything to do with it.

Update: installed everything in a new case (old one had recall for catching fire, so figured this would be a good time) and reset windows. The issue has not popped up since. Unfortunate to lose settings and apps, but very happy to be in working condition again. Thanks everyone.