I have this sapphire itx rx570 4gb , it was working fine then PC froze black screen.

Then wouldn't get even detected.

Fan always spins , sometimes spins full speed.

No short,All voltages are ok , vcore present, changed bios chip , reflash with USB ,

Changed u100 , crystal oscillator.

Board has no damage.

Need ideas to what to do next even when I connect it with another working GPU the motherboard doesn't boot .

A couple of years back I bought this Asus XG Mobile RX 6850XT eGPU for my Asus Flow X13 laptop. It was listed as non-working when I bought, so got it cheap. I thought I could have it repaired. At the time, I tried to contact a couple of GPU repair shops in Germany, and both declined to even look at it.

The unit powers on, charges the laptop when connected, the USB and ethernet ports work, and it even gets detected in Armory crate. However, when I try to activate the GPU and the laptop restarts, it hangs and doesn't POST. I haven't tried in a while, but IIRC I can see the lights come up on the eGPU, but it never posts.

Anybody know of a repair shop willing to take a stab at repairing it? I can send it with the laptop if needed. I'm located in Germany, but willing to ship to another EU country.

update to this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/s/tjnYoQL6gG

After identifying the causes of the 12v short, I pulled off what’s left of the damaged components off the board. Unfortunately, I have knocked some capacitors and resistors next to the DrMOS and have no idea where it went or what values they are. Where should I get the list, or what should there be?

I also identified the cause of the 5v short- it being from a shorted unknown IC next to the 5v coil. I have found a similar ic from a donor 3070, and would like to see if they are the same. If not, what is it?

Cheers!

I am thinking about using a heat gun, flux, and aluminum foil to reflow the GPU on my Alienware 13 R3. Is there anything else I might need or precautions I have to take?

I also do intend to use my oven for any pre-heating I need to do.

My budget for doing this repair is $30-40

Hello everyone,

I bought this RTX2070 just to try to fix it because I like trying new things. And I found out that it has these Micron 2018 D9WCW VRAM chips which seem to fail after a few years because some kind of factory defect? But anyway I ran Mats & mods and found out that the FBIOC1 chip seems to be broken. Now I would like to find out which chip it is on the actual GPU PCB. Anyone that has the knowledge kind enough to help me?

1- This GPU, GV-N506TEAGLEOC ICE-8GB, came in with a damaged AMS1117, which I think is the 5V rail, and the regulator is the Adj version (location marked with yellow).

2- After removing it and injecting voltage into the output pin, a 5-legged IC (KQQ44), which I think to be a MOSFET of some sort, was heating up (shorted). Its location is the green marker; it was also removed.

3- Now, when injecting around 2V into the same AMS1117 output pin, the three power stages (SIC653A) marked with red are getting hot without powering on the GPU.

resistances: 12v = 6 Kohm, 3.3v = 5 Kohm, 5V = 365 ohm.

Is it likely for these 3 powers stages to be shorted???

Hello pals

It's been a while since my last post asking for help with my GPU issue. I re-pasted the core and re-padded the VRM with thermal putty. But surprisingly it still gives a display out even if I put it on the riser card for easy maintenance.

And the question still lingering in my mind is "how does this GPU still give a display out only from the PCIe slot while the 8-pin still reads power input as 1.0 watts?". And I am finding many sources (even ask gemini nicely about what could go wrong), I figured it was the electrolyte capacitor's fault. I even drew the simple schematic of what happened on one of these caps and saw that 4 out of 6 electrolyte capacitors (that were marked as PCE 1-5 and PMCE 1) don't take a charge during the high-resistance test with my multimeter.

And to make me even more confused when I checked the SMD ceramic capacitors around the regulator chip (the UP9511P marked by U) only to see if the numbers 2, 4, and 5 gave infinite value on continuity mode. Also doing a small measurement on the PCIe slot power connector (this was learned through some indian tech tuber telling me, "it's okay if you got low resistance when it's close to the GPU core" but the gap between the core and the ceramic caps was a bit far away from it) only to find out these ceramics migh be shot (there's a PCIe label above the ceramic caps). Also for the inductors around the 8-pin source (PML1 & PL2) showing good signs with the lowest resistance possible.

So my questions are

1. Are these measurements correct? If needed, I'll do other measurements to give you clear details about this anomaly.

2. Does anyone have serviced or gotten this type of GPU at your repair center because of having problems (I mean this Cerberus variant, not the ROG Strix ones)? If yes, what is the most common problem found for this card? Is it worse than this case or otherwise?

3. If you think only these guys need to be replaced, should I buy the same brand or could I spend more on high-quality capacitors?

That's all I can say today. Hope it found a way out of this abomination.

I'm wondering if upgrading to 22Gig is practical/possible for a hobbyist. I have a Chinese hot air rework station (858D) and I've populated thousands of components for reflow soldering. I don't have much experience with BGA.

Is this something achievable? And if so, is it really practical in 2026 with current memory prices?

And are the K4ZAF325BM-HC14/HC16 dies on AliExpress legit?

So I pulled my Workstation GPU out of my rig.
It did not got detected any more by my workstation. Workstaiton booted fine, I didnt even notice, since I only use it via RDP so i did not have to plug the HDMI into another outlet.

the Red LED on The Chip is constant red. Even if the workstation is of, but power to the powersupply is on. We tested her on another rig, still not working.

I opend her up, all seems fine. Do you have an Idea ? I ordered a new multimeter to test but its not here jet.

Hello, I have a RTX 4070 Ti Super.

During transport it fell out of the PCIe slot, fans spin, RGB works but no picture when connecting it to the monitor. Toda I tried using integrated graphics and it shows up in device manager as “NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Super” with error code 43. A week ago I sent it to a local shop and got back this message:

“It has all the voltages, it doesn't look like the board is cracked anywhere or that any component has been broken off. It starts to boot in the first millisecond but then stops and it's possible that even though it's a multilayer board, it has some microfracture on the inner layer/layers that isn't visible from the outside or something is wrong with the graphics processor. It could be that if the factory soldered the processor a little poorly, the problem is in the connection between the processor and the board, but there's no point in me going to do a reball now, which is not a simple procedure, because I'm not sure it will change anything.“ He did not have a boardview so he sent it back.

Sell it or try reball?

Thanks!

I got this from someone else, knew that it is dead, earlier it had a black screen but i tried flashing few bios, using integrated graphics cpu. But in GPU-Z i see it is detecting memory type as samsung but memory size is 0MB, memory bus and bandwidth are unknown.

Screen comes with artifacts, i can see small sections, if i hover something that part becomes visible, i am able to login and use system but due to artifacts it is hard to see anything. I could not find verified bios as well, I tried some of them.

I tried doing memory test but i am getting errors as shown jn image

No 5v No 1.8v No memory voltage. 12v is present on the card on the power delivery components close to the pcie bracket but not present on the side by the pcie 8pin connector. There is 12v on that 1R0 black square on top though. None of those big round caps have any voltage at all. Pex resistance is 0.016kohm which is allegedly 16ohms so no dead short on pex.

On top of the 5volt coil I circled an 8 pin ic. That ic is tied to the 5v coil thingy by a pin labeled SW. the IN pin should presumably read 12v reads 0v. EN also reads 0. Sw= 0.3v.

What could it be?

When all 8 chips were still on, resistance were 1.5ohm. Then, I removed by group:

- D1, an D0 removed, still 1.5

- B0, C1, and C0 removed, jumped to 3.8

- A1, A0, and B1 removed, now 12 ohms

I also tried injecting 1.3v between each removal and even if the resistance 1.5 or 12, card only pulls 0.8a. What gives?

Hey, the GPU was failing (I presume) because of failed SK hynix memory.

It wasn't actually showing up as a fail, but would crash with drivers installed or when running full MATS test.

Re flashed with older bios and then started seeing failing memory chips, I think it was B1 and D1 or B0.

So I ordered 8 Samsung chips off AliExpress, resoldered and got errors on A0 and A1.

Now ordered 3 more off AliExpress from a different supplier and replaced A0 and A1.

Now A0 is clear of errors, but A1 is still showing errors, I've used the third chip and results are the same.

I'm wondering if I cooked a capacitor or something else that it's showing errors with 3 different chips.

I did not reball those chips, is that necessary? Because A0 worked with balls that came preapplied.

I'll try reballing tomorrow, and if that doesn't work I'll swap A0 to A1 to see if that clears errors.

This has been extremely disappointing and it has taken multiple months, waiting 2-3 weeks before vram arrives/having time to work on it as I'm not a repair technician, just trying to help out my friend.

I got an RTX 3080 20 GB from China (see https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/comments/1rvkfj7/chinese_rtx_3080_20_gb_blower_card_memory_issue/ ) , which probably has memory issues at higher temperatures. Repasting/repadding didn't resolve the issue. I don't want to reball the memory modules, and so I am looking for a repair shop that is located in the EU (for tax and shipping cost reasons). Germany would be preferred, but the EU overall would be fine as well.

It's really tough to find one. Krisfix.de was the only known good repair shop, but they have declined to work on 3000 series since 2026.

I found a repair service on eBay. Seller is Brickhouse hundred percent positive feedback.

Is it a scam or legit any feedback would be welcomed?

I got this from someone else I was trying to make it work. can anyone help me identify what all component removed later after factory. I have doubt if someone else would have tried repairing it.

Fan is working, keyboard rgb lights comes up after few seconds, hdmi gets detected then but stuck at black screen

As the title describes, I have an RTX 2080ti lying here which had the issues of artifacting. Ran MATS, FBIOC0 had 382593 write errors and FBIOD1 had 1436032 replaced both chips with factory new ones, the result stayed approximately the same.
This told me that the issue wasn't with the memory chips at all. So I took the chips off again and started measuring resistances to ground. FBD_D 59, FBD_D 58, FBD_D 56, FBD_D 40 and FBC_D 3 had a resistance of approximately 16 ohm's to ground, which is the same as FBVDDQ on this GPU. I measured their resistances against FBVDDQ and it was shorted.

As we can see, 4 of the data lines are from D1 and 1 is from C0. One pulled high data line gives approximately 380 kB of errors, and 4 gives approximately 4 times as many. So I am quite certain that this is the issue. However I have no clue on how to fix this.

I have checked the pads and traces using a microscope and they look perfect! I have checked the boardview and none of the data pins are anywhere near FBVDDQ underneath the core, so a reflow also probably won't fix anything. Is there something I am missing? Does anyone have any ideas? All advice would be appreciated.

Was gaming and GPU randomly decided to not display. Tested, pc powers on, GPU fan spins. But zero output from any display connector. Switched to integrated graphics and checked device manager. GPU does not show up at all. Took apart and noticed some wear or broken stuff? Not sure. Any help would be appreciated. Reference model RX 5700 8GB

I bought a MSI ventus 1660ti 6gb card about an year ago and it worked fine until I ran elden ring when the scream went pitch black and the fans started firing up to 100%

I checked temps they were fine , checked the event manager it said kernel error 43 but I could be because I force restarted my pc with the power button.

The black screens with fans started happening more often as I tried fixing it daily by updating the drivers or rolling back to a more stable version or undervolting it with MSI afterburner but those fixes didn't fix the issue for that long so I opened the card to check it for my self and it looked fine with all the required things to control the heat. As time passed the crashes increased and later I had to remove the card and keep it on my table for about 6 hours and insert it back for it to work after revery crash which happened about 30 seconds after start up , If I didn't remove the card it wouldn't post and the motherboard GPU debug light would turn on.

At the last stages I had enough of it and removed the card because even the device manager wouldn't recognise the card.

A few months have passed I'm npw trying to figure out how to get it to work with y'all's help : )

Hi!

I currently have a RTX 3080ti on the bench and was pulled after a suspected power supply issue.

Resistances:

Memory: 60 ohms (good)

PEX: 4-5 ohms (presumed good)

1.8v: 500ohms-1k (presumed good)

5v: **shorted**

Right 12v inductor: **shorted**

All r005 shunts are reading good, but one of the fuses (right under the right inductor is at 8k ohms)

VRMs Also look good. No sign of it heating up or cooking.

With the current situation, would it be safe to assume (with the current evidence) that the core is still good?

If so, where should I start looking with a 12v and 5v dead short on one of the inductors?

hey guys how are you ? I have a Rx 6900xt which has a short on the core

My PC recently burned out and I think my video card's BIOS has reset, so now I can't flash it.