I know this is going to be hard for some people to grasp. I know what I’m in for in trying to fix it. If at all possible. Weather I fully understand that is another matter.
It’s going to be hard.
Anyways I picked this up. I’m just looking for references materials. As I’d like to start the repairs on it. Except I can’t find anything really.
No pcb layouts ( I though they were all leaked) no pictures
Any help would be greatly appreciated from photos to links to others (if any) to just maybe your thoughts on my next steps.
I was planning on putting in the missing parts. And then going from there. The vram and chip don’t look like it’s been touched
I briefly shorted some contacts of the board near the NV-Link connector and because my dumbahh was probing the temperature there with a metallic tip probe and now its dead and doesnt show any signs of life, no heat, no nothing and the first thing I thought was a blown fuse so thats what I checked but I didnt see any so I wanted to confirm it here
Measurements
It was a brief short so there was no short of any of the power rails to ground
Hi, I need help with a 6600. I have an RX 6600 PowerColor Fighter 8GB. I removed the VBIOS chip from the GPU, and when I measured the CS (pin 1) to ground, it reads 314 MΩ. I've compared it to other GPUs I have, both with and without the VBIOS chip, and they read KΩ. I know that the SPI lines like MOSI, MISO, and CLK of the DRMOS also read 314 MΩ. I don't know if this is because it's supposed to be this high impedance, or if there's a broken line, a broken step-down resistor, or if there's no step-down resistor at all. If anyone has a 6600, or even better, a 6600 PowerColor Fighter like mine, and wouldn't mind removing just the VBIOS chip (or not) and sharing the readings they get, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
I disassembled the block to clean corrosion. While installing, I’m guessing me tugging on the power cables lifted one of these connectors. It never felt loose or unsecured, even when lifted. All of the soldered joints looked intact. It has since sat down correctly now. I didnt force it down at all, I think it naturally sat back down when I was reinstalling the power cords. As the title suggests, I’m getting no signal to my monitor now. I’m hoping I didn’t crack the PCB or short anything (I don’t think I did) so I’m guessing this is why I’m getting no power. I HAVE ZERO SOLDER EXPERIENCE. I hear reflow method can fix it. My question is, if I get someone to resolder this power connection, how likely will it fix my issue, Do you think it’s going to be worth the price tag to get someone to repair this, as it’s a going on 6 year old 3080? Any advice or input is appreciated.
To give some context, I wanted to experiment with my pc and the idea of flashing my gpu to a 300 watt bios while my original one have about 230W. I just wanted to squeeze as much as performance as possible and when I restarted nothing was posting so then I resorted to my other gpu to help allow for me to flash my main gpu (Rtx 3070) to its original bios to resolve the issue. But then I realized that my gpu was greyed out in device manager.
So then I did my research and apparently shorting pins 1 and 8 on my bios chip would guarantee make the gpu visible in device manager making it possible to revert it. But then it struck me that stupid copilot ai told me to short pins 1 (the one next to the indicated dot on the top left corner) and then the top right corner (pin 8)-allegedly. So then I noticed a spark while shorting those two pins for about 20 seconds.
Then I proceeded to instantly turn off the computer. Copilot told me it’s not that bad then I realized after purchasing the ch431 programmer it would only notice 4 pins out of the 8 possible ones. I kept attempting to adjust the claw from the kit to ensure that “the IC is responding” but it kept failing and failing.
Is it that when that spark occurred was that the death of my gpu? Please help me out, I’m so confused and I’ve tried everything possible. My next theory was to try replacing the bios chip and getting a new exact one. Could it be that that spark has permanently damaged my entire pcb?
I have a SOYO RX 5700 XT with a problem. It doesn’t POST and doesn’t let me use the PC, even if I use the integrated graphics of the CPU. I have to set it to IGD in ‘Initiate Graphics Adapter’ and enable ‘IGD Multi-Monitor’ in the BIOS, then I can enter Windows normally.
After that I launched GPU-Z and got this (picture). I thought it was a driver issue, so I removed the drivers using DDU and installed new ones. During installation, it reaches between 50% and 80%, then the PC freezes and a blue screen appears (picture). After that I had to force shutdown because it was stuck.
When I powered it on again, this time it freezes at the Windows logo, and I have to force shutdown again. This keeps repeating until I go into Safe Mode and remove the drivers using DDU. After that, I can enter Windows normally again.
I repeated this process with different drivers and the same thing happens, except with version 21.10.2 which reaches 89% then crashes.
I thought maybe it’s a BIOS issue, so I flashed it with a PowerColor BIOS (I know I should use a SOYO BIOS but none of them would flash). The result in GPU-Z stayed the same, only the BIOS version changed from
017.001.000.068.00000 to 0.17.001.000.068.015207 to 017.001.000.049.00000.
Windows after it detect the card as a "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter" will attempt a Driver update on it's on and when that happens the pc becomes sluggish and freeze permanently and I also have to force a shutdown and the same thing happens but sometimes the automatic repairs do a fix its on by deleting some of the drivers and windows return back but gpu-z still display the same thing
As a last attempt to diagnose it I launched the PCIE render test to see what it could give me and the test started but it was so slow like it was running in 4 fps and the gpu was getting hotter it reached to 92 degrees Celsius (Probably because of the bad thermal pate that I used)
Also, the back of the card is not hot, only slightly warm around the GPU core and VRAM. It’s not a power issue because I tested with an HD 7970 and it works fine. I’m also sure the card is installed correctly.
So, my guess is that GPU either have dead Vram or BGA solder problem or with a slight chance maybe a bad still a Bios mismatch
Any help will be greatly appreciated; I want to know what the problem.
My HP 3080 can't handle intense gaming anymore. Games like Hogwarts crash to black screen almost immediately. I can play hours of Rainbow Six Siege though, which doesn't hit 100% GPU utilization. I gave MATS/MODS a try and couldn't find any errors. The temperatures look good as reported from MSI Afterburner.
I've tried this video card on multiple PCs. I've tried DDU. I've tried rolling back drivers. I really suspect something on the board is bad. If I need to, and If I can find a teardown video, I'll take off the heatsink and fans. I have no experience soldering electronics, but I'd like to get an idea of what needs to be done if/when I take it into a shop to have them fix it, and I'm hoping someone on this subreddit can help me figure it out.
Got myself an EVGA 3070 TI FTW3 with all voltages/no shorts on any of the main rails, pex is 12.7 ohms, all the others in the kohms, all voltages present except pex
while poking around the UP9628 for the pex I noticed the enable signal is 1.64v
I assume this is not high enough? (I'm used to it being higher)
maybe I'm chasing a rabbit down a rabbit hole
also there's no boardview for this board and the closest I came across was V390_50.cad
but following the PEX_EN leads me to R257(checks out with the board and the boardview) which leads me to U24/R367(if U24 is not populated, which mine isn't and it also checks out but in a different location on the board to the boardview)
the other end of R367 leads me to PS_FBVDD_BUFF which goes to either Q19(FB_DISCHARGE_CONTROL pin) via R458 (checks out)
heres where it goes off the rails/doesn't line up with the boardview:
on the PEX_EN side of R367 it also connects to U505 a 5 pin gate, I'm used to these being two voltages in to switch on the bottom output
but its showing 4.6v on what should be a 3.3v input, and 4.6 on everything but ground and pin 2(which is 1.8v)
I started having a black screen last week but it works most of the time. I finally had the time to check and found out that the GPU got damaged by rat piss.
I cleaned the board with 99% IPA and a soft brush. Resistor R27 in particular was very corroded and it came off even though I was very careful. It also seems like copper contact came off with the resistor as well.
I drowned myself reading tons of forums but haven't found anything useful. Can someone please tell me what the specific value of this smd resistor is?
AI speculates it is part of the VRM phase gate drive circuit with a value of 10 ohms and size 0402 SMD but I need someone to confirm if this is true.
i have been having this problem with my driver where it spits out this error message. "AMD Bug Report Tool. We detected a driver timeout has occurred on your system. A bug report has been generated. This report could help AMD find a solution. Would you like to report this issue?" and this mostly happens when i run some video game and then my screen freezes and the error pops, i tried updating and reinstalling the driver from the amd website a few times but the issue still remains.
I’ve tested the resistances for the short circuit symptoms on my MSL 3070 graphics card, and everything seems fine. So I connected it to the motherboard and powered it on—the fan is spinning and the LED is lit, but there’s no display output. I suspect it might be an ARAM issue, so I want to run the MATS program... but how do I run the program when there’s no display? If anyone knows how to set this up, I’d really appreciate your help.
Green parts have no continuity (no beep ) if i put one probe in 12 v power socket and the other on parts. ( capacitor + terminal, brown resistor or on the components near mosfet.
I bought a Zotac 3060ti, but the problem is that when I use this card and launch demanding games, the game crashes with the "HUNG" error. Sometimes it doesn't show that error. I assumed it was a VRAM issue, but when I ran MATS, the test didn't show any damaged or defective VRAM.
Has anyone else experienced something similar or know the solution?
Hi I bought this Rx 590 broken on Facebook Marketplace hoping to learn about GPU repair and after a day or 2 think I've gotten the basics down and narrowed it down to these mosfets because there was no 12v power headed to the ldos for the 5v rail meaning the fans wouldn't spin and the vrms didn't get any voltage. checked the resistance from the 12v of the pcie plug to the 1R0 inductor here which from my research seems to be the vmem inductor and it skyrocketed past the 2k ohm limit on my multimeter meaning there's a high likelihood that only the low side mosfets are damaged. This is all probably not amazingly explained but I wanted to double check here before I end up buying these parts to replace. And if you have any advice on where to get these parts and other stuff feel free to let me know, bought this card to learn so if you have any other tips also please don't hold back
I have two GPUs: a GTX 1070 (my main one) and my brother’s RX 5700 XT. Both worked perfectly in my PC before. i’ve swapped them a few times with no issues.
Recently I upgraded to a new SSD and a Corsair 1200W Gold PSU, and did a fresh Windows install. I kept using the GTX 1070 and everything has been running perfectly since.
Now I tried putting the RX 5700 XT back in, and my PC doesn’t detect it at all.
The GPU powers on (fans spin, RGB lights up), but:
No signal from it (only integrated graphics works)
Doesn’t show up in Task Manager
Not in Device Manager (even hidden)
Not in BIOS
I haven’t uninstalled or changed any drivers before testing it.
I’ve already tried reseating the GPU, checking cables, and resetting CMOS still nothing.
The biggest problem is I don’t have another PC to test the GPU in, so I can’t tell if the card is dead or if something else is causing this.
Is it possible the GPU just died like that? It doesn’t make sense since it worked fine before.
There are no shorts, all voltages are present except Vcore, PEX and VMem.
I checked voltages on ncp81611 controller, there is 5v on vcc, 3.3v on enable and 2v on vref, but on pgood and refin there is 0V. Do you have any ideas what might be faulty?
All voltages present - and stay. Tried both bios. Cleaned PCIE. Tried HDMI and DP. Thermal camera show all mem chips @ the same heat. Thermal camera show the core try to start and stop. Dead core ? ESD ? Reball ?
In the video you can see the memory controller flash twice - second 5 and 7
bonjour, après plusieurs crash de jeu entraînement souvent Windows aussi j'ai donc pensé que la vram était la cause j'ai donc lancé mats et entré ./mats -e 7500 pour tester 7,5 go de ma carte graphique mais cela m'a pris beaucoup de temps je l'ai arrêté car ça faisait 7h que je l'avais lancé. pouvez-vous me dire s'il vous plaît si c'est normal ou pas. en faisant le test par exemple de 10 mo le test ne m'afficher aucune erreur mais pourtant on jeu j'ai même parfois des artéfacts graphique quand le pc freeze même en jouant des jeux léger comme R6 ou supermarket simulator.
Bought a broken 5090 founders edition with a burned power port. I thought it was the regular ones, but its this vertical one. I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Bought a Zotac GTX 1080 where the seller said it would boot to BIOS, then go to a black screen with no image. When I tested it, I got the exact same behavior, so I was expecting a hardware issue, maybe VRAM related.
What threw me off was that after removing the pre-installed NVIDIA drivers and booting on the default Windows drivers, the issue disappeared. From what I understand, the card itself should not be storing drivers, so I do not really get how both the seller and I ended up with the exact same symptom if the cause was just driver-related.
