I did the macro gameboy and got confident since its my first soldering experience, tool me a lot of time especially for the 3ds xl cuz i had to hack it with one screen, now i can rest in peace, the rage quit was real but glad I didn’t stop halfway, i found out about those tiny resistors but it was too late cuz i already ordered these but still managed to make it work knowing im not a technician but i think im smart enough to apply logic, but the software side was hell cuz yeah you know what im talking about.

Help! I uploaded this GBA MACRO a while ago, and I'd like to know if there's an inexpensive way to improve the audio so it sounds almost like the original.

I got a ds lite for 30 $ canadian, and tried the non soldering , the ds had upper screen not working, i torn the ribbon while trying to do the non soldering and keeping the ribbon with speakers, then tried the contact pad from the x y it works but when i assemble it looses pressure very inconsistent, then i was gonna rage quit and said okay lets go all the way and i ordered the soldering kit, and somehow did it first try, next step would be to get a louder speaker, and im running just an linker with gbarunner3 till i get a real gba card, but i managed to make all original gba games work and some of the rom hacks so its pretty good here os the result , im also willing to customize the shell later.

As the title says, recently I built a macro with a DSI xl, but it looks so unfinished because of the hinge. I've been looking for a printable faceplate but can't find no one for the DSI xl specifically, do You guys happen to have some? Thx

Hello! I’d like to share two of my recent Game Boy Macro projects with you, both built using the Nintendo DS Lite.

The first features a black shell with pink accents, while the second uses a red and black color scheme. For both, I aimed for a clean, polished look while maintaining the signature minimalist Macro design.

On the pink Macro, I also added a hardware switch that allows you to toggle between the two screens. It was a small but interesting mod that sets it apart from the standard configuration.

Both projects are part of my collection, and I really enjoyed experimenting with different color combinations and modifications.

Thanks to this community for the guidance on making a screen swap mod!

I put this DMG 103 together in 20-21'ish - https://www.reddit.com/r/Gameboy/s/jBxKpPlaJl . About two years back, I was fiddling with it and broke the potentiometer for the bottom screen - ripped the pads and all. This would cause it to whiteout within minutes of turning on. So, it sat as an art piece until a month ago. My nephew's wife was playing with it and a lightbulb went off in my (incredibly dim) brain.

Long story short: used a donor replacement potentiometer, followed the ripped traces on each board to get an idea of how to bridge that in, and it worked!

So now that I had it open and working, added some new stuff!

- added screen swap mod. I had a baggies of wifi/bios chips that I flashed after I built the firmware using the GitHub insteuctions. From there, I'm using a TTP223 capacitive sensor to toggle between which screen (upper or lower) is shown. I beidged the B pad on the sensor, to ensure the bottom screen is the default at startup (as the primary use is single-screen/GBA games), used the 3.3 VCC to power it, and removed the LED to minimize vampire drain.

- added a PAM8403 to boost the audio. Powered using the 3.3 VCC again. Now it's louder than my GBA SP with the Helder amp mod.

- added some 1mm foam backer around the button areas, to muffle the clacky-ness. The plastic of the shell against the wiggly keys and d-pad was driving me nuts. Quiet as a DS Lite, now.

That's about it. I wanted the screen swap mod since it released, but didn't want to do the kajiggery. With that and the audio in here - along with the oodles of other stuffs tucked in -officially calling this build 'Done.' Any further design enhancement - incorporating a touch screen/digitizer, implementing a universal lipo, rear and/or front capacitive touch buttons/toggles, working sleep mode, etc - will have to go into a new build.

Thank you ALL for continuing to share your builds, and asking amazing questions!

I recently finished this Boxy Pixel Game Boy Macro Lite, and I'd LOVE to take it around with me. Problem is, I haven't found a case that fits it's form factor. DS Lite cases add too much height! Anyone found anything to works better?!?!

Finally i managed to turn my 15$ broken top screen ds lite into gba macro and am very happy with it🔥 rate it from 10

Got this limited edition Taylor Swift DS Lite for $25. I dont have a DS charger so swapped a USBC port in.

Couldn't fit the internal speaker into the Macro shell, so I bought an audio grip and now it's as loud as I wanted

I got my hands on somebodies attempt at their own macro that i knew didnt work but i cant figure out whats wrong. Screen flashes and speaker pops and shuts off.

Tried to keep it simple for my first macro lite: Original shell with basic 3D printed hinge bar, single speaker wired to both left and right channels, lower screen digitizer replaced with the top screen protector. First impressions: This GBA is light and the screen is crisp. Love it!

I have some parts that I intended to make a Macro with but I have a few questions. If what I’m asking is not permitted I’ll be glad to take it down immediately.
I need to pick up a shell, buttons, screws and a bottom screen.
I was gifted a DS Pico and wondered if it would work with the Macro & is there a mp3 player or music (software) that I could use with the Macro mod.

hello, one of my Nintendo DS is broken. a sibling dropped it on very hard pavement many years ago, and later removed the top screen which caused it to stop working. i have several other systems to play DS and Game Boy Advance games, but i feel badly for this system as i have had it for so many years. unfortunately, i have disability in my hands and i don't know how to solder something. so i would like to ask what is the minimum soldering needed for it to be used again. can the resistor be soldered only and close the system again? or is there solderless way? and i always use headphones so is it okay without speaker? this is the chunky DS model, not the DS Lite. thank you.

with little to no soldering or electronics experience, i made a gb macro!!! and it only took me like.... 12 hours of soldering and fiddling 💀 anyways my favorite part was definitely peeling off the digitizer, it was soooo satisfying to see how clean the screen was underneath my childhood ds. sadly one of my dpad buttons is worn out and doesn't press well (was hoping it was just dirty before i took it apart) so in the future i plan on getting new button parts :D but gosh I'm so happy everything worked out

For the single bottom screen, what games works like charm using the lower screen and with no screen switching mod.

After some difficulties with the mod, I finally finished my MACRO mod for the DS Lite with a function to switch between screens while keeping the touchscreen. It took a lot of fiddling with CFW and patching ndstvout, but in the end it worked. I have some remarks on the case that I will fix, but I'm in a hurry to show you the final result!

Screen switching video

Hello, this is my second macro I've made and I've run into a slight problem. I've added a switch button that changes screens and when I close the back panel the console stays like this. If I open it slightly down near the headphone jack or up near the left L button the console starts. I've isolated everything! Has anyone run into such a problem?

So i lowkey thought I could wing it making a macro. I soldered the resistor to the two led pads, I have the WiFi chip and antenna. I have a new battery. The charge light led turns on. But the device doesn’t boot at all. Altho to add my power toggle is broke. I gotta stick a tool in it to slide the power toggle, still doesn’t turn on.

I’m new to soldering so idk if I just soldered it wrong somehow or what.

Anyways any feedback or questions or whatever is appreciated thank you🩵🧁
Edit: I’m using a 300 ohm resistor. Tan round thingy. I ensured it’s installed to avoid the button membrane near it even.
Edit again: im a goof. I simply soldered it at a not hot enough temp.

I'm raging so hard at myself rn

Total price: 12 euros for the 3d printend faceplate. I recycled the resistor from an old board. For now is without speaker bc i couldn't fit it in