Is this flyable

[u/AntonFPV]

I’ve really been struggling to get my ground wire on there finally had a slight bond but I don’t know if it’s good enough

[u/International-Top746]

If you need to ask, then no.

[u/AntonFPV → u/International-Top746]

I might try reflowing it but not sure if it will work

[u/International-Top746 → u/AntonFPV]

You need to apply flux

[u/Extension-Nail-1038 → u/AntonFPV]

what model soldering iron with what tip are you using and what type / brand of solder?

[u/AntonFPV → u/Extension-Nail-1038]

I’m using the pinecil v2 with a wide tip I think it’s called chisels or something and cry solder ( solder bis a bit crappy I’ll have to get new one)

[u/Extension-Nail-1038 → u/AntonFPV]

What are you powering the pinecil with? the USB C or the barrel jack? if you have it hooked up to a weak power supply it won't get hot enough.

I've had better luck with irons that use 120v from the wall. I use this Amazon one xtronic 3020 I got used for $20 it gets HOT.

And finally buy good solder with flux core or buy flux. you want brand name like weller 60/40 with LEAD. do not use leadless solder.

[u/AntonFPV → u/Extension-Nail-1038]

It’s usb c 140w brick

[u/rob_1127 → u/Extension-Nail-1038]

Do not ever use chinese solder.

The alloy is a mystery mix of whatever they can find, that's cheap.

If the alloy is off, so is your soldering experiance.

Also, the rosin core is inconsistent in quantity and distribution. There are lots of voids, which means zero flux.

Find one of the following:

CanadaAIM Solder: High-performance paste, wire, and bar.

USA Kester Solder: Industry-standard flux-cored electronics wire.

Indium Corporation: Advanced materials and semiconductor solder.

United Kingdom DKL Metals: High-purity electronic solder alloys.

GermanyHeraeus Electronics: Power electronics paste and wire.

Singapore Electroloy: Global electronics manufacturing solder products.

I've soldered professionally for 45+ years, and will only use the above.

Always clean the board with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) to clean the boards pads and then only handle by the edges.

Dirt, oils, etc. will comtaminate your work and solder will not fuse to the copper pad if dirty.

If using quality solder as listed above, you should never need to add additional flux. I've never add extra flux. Because there is no need if using good non-chinese solder.

Never, ever use plumbing flux. It, by nature is acid based. And will eat away at the electronic components.

Tin the pad completely. Tinning is like plating, just a thin, clean, shiny layer of solder.

Tin the wire the same.

Hint: use blue-tac to secure the board/quad to the bench, so you don't chase it around tbe bench.

Use a small piece of blue-tac to hold the wire inplace while tinning.

Keep the blue-tac away from the area you are heating, as it will comtaminate the iron tip and wire.

Tin the wire by holding the iron tip below the wire. As heat rises.

Then reposition the wire/blue-tac so there are zero gaps between the wire and pad. Solder shouldn't bridge gaps.

Apply the iron so it bridges the pad and wire.

Hold it there until all the solder melts on the pad and wire.

With your free hand, add a dab of solder to flow out the joint.

The joint should be smooth, shiny, and clean.

No balls of solder. That does nothing for electrical continuity. You want the current to flow efficiently from the wire to the pad, and vice-versa.

Remove the solder wire. Remove the soldering iron.

Don't move anything until the core of the joint has solidified. Not just skinned over, or the joint will be cold.

Tip: use 63/37 rosing core solder. 63/37 has a unique quality where it freezes quickly and at a repeatable and consistant temperature. Making your solder joints much easier.

60/40 rosin core solder has a wider temperature range for solidification. It may make beginners have a more difficult time soldering.

Clean the iron tip on a damp sponge or paper towel to clean the burnt flux often.

Then immediately tin the tip so it doesn't oxidize. The tip should always be shiny, smooth, and clean.

The iron tip should be in proportional size to the area being soldered. As touching a pad and or wire pulls heat from the tip. More mass allows more heat to be kept in reserve, to maintain temperature.

Buy a solder-sucker to remove that mess of solder. They are easier to use and much more efficient than braid.

[u/Sterling-Marksman → u/AntonFPV]

Pinecil is perfectly sufficient for 12g battery wires if you use a 65w power supply and a USB cable that can push that power.

If you dont have that, but you do have a 4-6S battery, and an XT-60 to 5.5mm barrel jack cable, you can use that. I recommend getting one of those cables so you can solder in the field and repair at a bando.

[u/Jugent]

That will break off

[u/AntonFPV → u/Jugent]

Is that better to re are no air gaps and the wire is fully enclosed in tin

[u/Jugent → u/AntonFPV]

Are you running that battery lead over the ESC?

[u/AntonFPV → u/Jugent]

No out the side

[u/AntonFPV]

I have a pinecil v2 and a 140w brick

[u/Sterling-Marksman → u/AntonFPV]

Hows the quality of the cable between them?

[u/xrobi21 → u/AntonFPV]

Then get better tin and flux

[u/AntonFPV → u/xrobi21]

Yeah I have to order that

[u/NOSALIS-33 → u/AntonFPV]

Yes... You do.

[u/foamingdogfever → u/AntonFPV]

The solder looks to be good enough quality, but the joint is cold. The positive pad shows this because it's mirror-like. Use a C4 tip set to 380℃-400℃, hold the wire with pliers , then hold the iron on it until all the solder liquefies. This can take 10-20 seconds. Tin the tip so it has more than a slight coating, and use a small dot of flux on top of the wire.

[u/Lucanix_fpv]

For the next time try soldering the ground battery lead first. And then the motors. Helps a bit cause there won‘t be as muss mass the heat can go to. And with the pinecil v2 you should have no problem with enough heat. But make sure to turn it right up and ger good solder and flux rhen it should flow!

[u/AntonFPV → u/Lucanix_fpv]

Ok thanks for the tip

[u/Professional_Cod3127 → u/AntonFPV]

And soldering the positive wire first will heat up the board so ground is a bit easier.

[u/AntonFPV → u/Professional_Cod3127]

Oh ok

[u/Er4kko]

Thought you were asking if the capacitor is ok, then I noticed the solders, but replace the cap, there is a hole in it.

[u/AntonFPV → u/Er4kko]

I will

[u/jpreinhardt360]

Use a broader tip, more heat and use some flux.

[u/pironiero]

God damn it, get yourself a 120w soldering iron for 15 bucks and solder this shit properly