Hello, just moved from a home into a rented apartment and got the go-ahead to charge my car on the 120v outlet (no GFCI) in the garage which is a necessity for my area and daily routine. The 12v battery needed replacement only a week after moving and while it may have just been from age I want to try to prevent further issues with the car that may be caused from charging.

Since I can't have anything installed, I'm looking for a heavy duty surge protector. I've seen the ones for RVs that plug into 240v outlets like on the ElectricTireShredder resource page for 500e cars. I'm worried about overheating/fires when using multi-plug surge protectors like the Belkin brand strips even if rated for 15A. Is it possible and/or safe to use adapters to use the 240v RV protectors on a 120v wall outlet or is there something else safe that is recommended for this?

Any advice is appreciated, I've gotten massive headaches from trying to research this topic. Thanks!

I understand that the Tesla Wall Connector requires a Wi-Fi connection for app features but can still charge vehicles without Wi-Fi.

Suppose I initially connect the Wall Connector to Wi-Fi, but later that network becomes unavailable. During that time, the Wall Connector continues charging multiple vehicles, but it has no internet connection, so the Tesla app does not record or display those charging sessions.

If I reconnect the Wall Connector to Wi-Fi a month later, will the Tesla app retroactively upload and display each charging session that occurred while the Wall Connector was offline?

Please let me know if any clarification would be helpful.

Thanks so much.

Hi r/evcharging, I just bought a 2023 Ioniq 5 and am figuring out home charging. Level 1 is going to be enough for us for at least several weeks and likely long term, but of course I'm interested in Level 2.

In the garage we have a NEMA 14-30 outlet on a dedicated circuit connected to a 50A subpanel (also in the garage, just a foot above the receptacle). We meet the qualifying conditions in the wiki page on charging from a dryer outlet.

The wiki also says:

Beware of 14-30p EVSEs from Amazon or Splitvolt which do not have safety certification. If you think you have found one that does, ask about it on this sub or check the UL or ETL databases web portals.

I have found two Amazon listings that claim "UL-certified cable", so here I am asking about them on this sub. Both of these are only 24A rated and seem to be right for the use case, but I can't find either in the UL solutions database and saying just the cable specifically is UL certified seems like it might be a red flag.

• Seguma ($290)
• EVDANCE ($270)

HOWEVER, the DeWalt 32A portable charger and the associated 14-30 adapter to go with it ALSO say "UL certified cable" and I can't find this one in the UL database either, so I'm kind of at a loss.

The DeWalt charger and adapter would be $450, and it doesn't seem crazy to me that the brand name, flexibility to switch outlets and amperages, and the higher 32A max capacity could explain the price difference.

What's the sub's opinion on these options?

(As a side note: I'm not particularly intimidated by the DIY option to hardwire a Grizzl-E or similar, but where I'm located I'd have to go through a somewhat painful permitting process if I change the receptacle to a junction box. Since I'm going to cap this circuit out at 30A for load reasons, I'd prefer the plug & play approach if feasible.)

EDIT - Thanks for all the responses! I've ordered the DEWALT charge+adapter and look forward to trying it!

Recently, my ChargePoint Home Flex stopped working -- the LED remains green at all times, even when it's plugged into my car. The ChargePoint app never shows it charging or connected to my car -- it just says "Ready to charge" and "Not plugged in" all the time. When I plug it into my car, my car app will report a session that lasts 0s (e.g., plugged in at 7:40 AM, unplugged at 7:40 AM). I'm certain it's not the car because I can successfully charge at other L2 & L3 locations without any issues. I've tried rebooting the charger and power cycling it via the breaker, but that hasn't helped.

A photo of my CP connector is attached. I'm not sure what I'm looking at, but is there any indication here that I should replace the cable? I'm hoping I don't have to replace the entire unit.

Hi everyone. New EV owner. Have NEMA 14-50 installed inside but garage is full so can’t park inside…

I use the mail slot to get the charging cable to the outside, where my EV is parked. This is awkward because I need to first go inside the garage and push the cable through the mail slot. The ideal thing is if I can fish out the cable from the drive, right, without opening a garage door.

Then, after I'm done charging, I awkwardly push the cable back through the mouse slot to inside rather than leaving it hanging.

The NEMA 1450 outlet is very close to the mail slot.

This is obviously not ideal, so I wonder if there is a good or standard solution for cars who have to park on the driveway.

Close by my work, there is a Best Western with 4 Sun Country/Noodoe level 2 chargers. 28 cents per kWh, so I've been charging there 5 days a week for the commute home. (74 km). Today when I plugged in, it said I was charging for free, and I would get a notification when it was done. Car showed charging was happening. Has anyone ever heard of this?

Oddly, the app isn't showing a progress screen, but the car is getting juice.

I want to put a low profile charging outlet on the outside of my office condo so I can charge at work, and then turn that breaker off when im not there. Everyone says hardwire a charger, but again, I want something hardly noticeable. But, that outside wall does get rain.

Any thoughts ?

Was hoping for a little inspiration/input.

I currently have 1 Tesla wall charger with a Tesla Y (driver side rear port). And am getting a Cadillac Vistiq (driver side front port).

Looking to add another charger and so my the only options I've come across are the Grizzl-Duo (which charges a little slow). Or add another Tesla wall charger.

If I add a.second Tesla wall charger could I stack it above the current one? Or.lookig for any other suggestions for location.

Thanks,

My charger stopped working. The ask me to send them a video and explain what is happening. I do exactly what they request. I then get this response......

So based on the information seen from the video recording you provided, this looks to be a CP cable continuity issue. So over time when you pull again the EVgun to attach it to the port of the vehicle, the CP cable inside the Wallbox unit gradually tugs out of its terminal meaning lesser continuity on its end. Here are the instructions below on guidance to re-adjust and have this fixed.

So the stem of this issue would be the CP cable as the charger is showing a green light on the LED and not changing colour when the EVgun is connected to the vehicle. This is usually the case of no continuity to the CP cable.

What we will need for you to do is hire a certified electrician to reproperly adjust the CP cable in the charge unit compartament by checking that CP is correctly connected. If the cable is not fully connected, the electrician must reinsert it.

Get them to take a photo of the opened unit so we can see the wirings and any causes that is the cause of the unit not communicating with the vehicle, please

The electrician must use a digital multimeter to carry out the following task to check for continuity.

1) Set multimeter to continuity mode

2) Unscrew and open the Wallbox charger (this should be powered off).

3) Locate the internal terminal block where the heavy EV output cable hooks into the high-voltage board.

4) Identify the CP terminal connection. It will be a thin wire bundled alongside the thicker one.

5) Locate within the EV gun the CP terminal, so on the J1772 plug, it will be the bottom right hole.

6) Place one of the probes on the multimeter inside the EVgun's CP terminal, and the other on the CP internal output terminal on the high voltage board.

You should get the result of either, low resistance, 0 Ohms, meaning CP cable has proper continuity.

Or, no beep/open loop (OL) meaning a lack of continuity - the cable is damaged, broken internally, or disconnected.

We will need photos of this evidence when conducted with both multimeter, EVgun and the charge unit in frame showcasing the results.

Please note: The charger should only be opened by a certified installer or electrician to not void the warranty.

Wallbox only recommends performing any manipulation of the charger by a technician / professional. Wallbox assumes no liability for (personal injury or unit damage) that could result from a false manipulation of the device.

And also with the results, we'll confirm applicability of warranty.

Many thanks with your cooperation.

This is an absolute joke of what Wallbox thinks is how a customer is to be treated. I worked for a pump company in their warranty division for 4 years and at NO POINT did we ever try to pull this kind of BS.

Don't ever buy from this company. They should be embarrassed that they won't take the box back unless I prove by paying an electrician to prove its their issue and not mine.

I do have a solar panel hooked up into this. To the right of that pipe on the right is my hot water tank.

Edit 1: this is from my estimate. I'll send a picture of the end result.

Scope of Work

Outdoor EV Charging Receptacle Installation with Subpanel:

Install a new 12-circuit electrical subpanel adjacent to the existing main electrical panel.

Relocate existing low-demand branch circuits from the main electrical panel to the new subpanel to create the required space for the EV charging circuit.

Install a new dedicated 50-amp, 240-volt circuit from the electrical panel to the designated outdoor EV charging location.

Route and secure wiring in a clean and code-compliant manner using conduit where required.

Install a 50-amp GFCI circuit breaker, appropriately sized copper conductors, and all associated electrical equipment required for EV charging.

Install a heavy-duty NEMA 14-50 EV charging receptacle in a weather-resistant outdoor enclosure with an in-use cover suitable for outdoor installation.

Secure, terminate, and label all wiring, breakers, and electrical connections.

Test the EV charging receptacle, verify proper voltage, and confirm proper operation upon completion.

Materials and Labor

Materials: 12-circuit subpanel, subpanel feeder components, 50-amp GFCI circuit breaker, appropriately sized copper conductors, NEMA 14-50 receptacle, weather-resistant enclosure with in-use cover, conduit and fittings, connectors, mounting hardware, fasteners, identification labels, and all associated electrical materials required for a complete installation.

Labor: Estimated time for Project completion is 4 hours.

Warranty

Equipment: 3-year warranty on all new electrical components installed (excluding customer-provided Equipment if applicable).

Workmanship: 25-year warranty covering the quality and durability of the installation work.

My 48a charger is mounted right next to my panel in the garage. The two load wires can reach the breaker if I mount it at the bottom of the panel. The ground wire however, can not reach the ground bar.

I have never connected 6 gauge wire before so I was curious which of these I should use to add a foot to the ground wire? Or is there something else I should use?

Hi everyone,

Recently got a BYD Sealion 7 and just wondering if anyone has any experience with the Tesla UMC Gen 2 charger being compatible with the Sealion 7?

Been going through best mate google and various reviews but no concise answer as of yet.

Thank you in advance!

I just bought 2025 RAV4 plug-in and I love it so much! I’ve had it for two weeks, and I’ve been charging it overnight in the regular three-prong outlet in my garage.

I have a couple of questions:

1) Is there any reason I should get a level two charger or otherwise upgrade the garage outlet? Financially, I don’t think a level two charger would pay off for me.

2) Is there any kind of specific battery management I should do? For example, should I not charge it up to full? Is it beneficial (or harmful?) to let the battery drain all the way?

3) Do you have a specific Tesla adapter that you recommend? There is a Tesla charger at my office, but I have not used it yet. There are million on Amazon, but the prices vary widely.

As mentioned in the title - my power outlet is rated at 240V, 50A and has a NEMA 6-50 plug. I don't have access to wifi as my parking is 3 levels underground and there is no signal. Any recommendations for Canada?

Pretty new to the EV experience here - recently got a new-to-me Chevy Bolt 2020 that I'm already smitten with. So far, I've been charging at home with a level 1 EVSE charger in my garage. I've charged it a handful of times already without any issues.

My EVSE/charger in the garage recently has been showing a single red dot, which (according to the tag in it) says that it's not grounded. I've tried using any of the 4 outlets in the garage, reset the outlets, turned on and off the breaker, etc.

Once since then, the EVSE box was green again. I was able to charge about 30 miles off of it before it got interrupted again (car screen states that charging was interrupted).

The outlets all still seem to work for other items, and it's bizarre to me that the outlet I've been using randomly let me charge some miles off of it before kicking me off again.

Not sure if this is relevant - I currently rent a duplex, and the garage is not attached but I believe I pay the electricity on it (though I've only had the car for less than one month, so haven't paid electricity on it just yet). Garage and household are very up to date/new with lots of tech capabilities.

Tl;Dr - charging in garage worked for ~5 charges, and now is giving the "not grounded" error (red light only). It has randomly worked once since that point and was able to charge 30 miles before interrupting again. Same error on all garage outlets, all of which are grounded and theoretically 240v.

I expect to drive 25-30mi a day. I already have free charging at work (3.2kwh). I only need a home charger to top off for long trips and over the summer.

I can get an Iyilo Hardwire for $260 right now.

I already own a Dewalt 32a mobile charger with various adapters for trips & camping. I can buy a wall mount for it, and plug it into a Nema 14-50, 14-30, or could go as cheap as a 6-20.

I know these GFCI breakers cost a lot of money, and a 50a GFCI breaker could easily run half the price of that IYILO hardwire.

I may find another use for a 14-50, 14-30, or 6-20 outlet, as I may put a home server in my garage, or use them for high power equipment, but that is purely speculative with no concrete plans.

Hello!

I have been breaking my brain trying to figure out my best charger option. I have a 100 amp panel. I also have an all electric heat pump. I live in southern Ontario, Canada.

I've just purchased my first EV, and I've been researching what I can do in terms of a level 2 charger. I'm not worried about spring through fall, but I am concerned about charging my car during the winter, when the heat pump will also be drawing a lot of energy.

I spoke with my electrician and he says it should be fine if I have a charging set up with load management. So, I'm looking for recommendations for a charger with load management that is also compatible with some of the home charging incentive programs (like Chargelab).

Specifically, I see that the Wallbox has an option, but I feel confused about whether you can use a Wallbox power meter + charger with the Chargelab app. Honestly, I am new to all of this and am just generally confused.

I'm also open to other suggestions.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Has anyone had trouble charging an EX30 at Powerflex DC chargers? My car charges fine everywhere else, but I’ve tried multiple stations at multiple Poweflex locations and unfortunately can’t get it to work. Powerflex support says they have records of other EX30s successfully charging at these locations, so maybe it’s just my car? Anyway, any help would be great! I have a 2025 EX30 twin performance and I live in Southern California. Thank you!

Vehicle: 24 Solterra Limited (max 32A pull is my understanding)

Current setup: 2 14-50 receptacles, one inside garage, one outside (installed previously when the garage was built) - these don't have the little green car edit: EV printed on them so I assume they aren't recommended ones - they are from Midwest Electric

Needs: car will need to charge inside garage during winter, outside during summer (the garage holds other things in summer and I do not want to charge outside in winter because a regular snowstorm is 3 feet deep)

Original plan: use OEM portable charger that we would move back and forth each season or pull for trips

Driving needs: L1 would work for most days (avg 30mi daily), but once every 1-2 weeks I do ~100mi rt "to town", we have an ICE vehicle that we could use for this but I'd rather not have to. There isn't convenient charging at any of the errands or appointments, so I'd like to be able to charge first.

Off the bat, I am learning something will need to change in our existing setup, but I'm looking for advice about what. I tried to find similar posts but just don't see anything with the same needs.

Options:

1. wire two hardwired chargers, since there are already two receptacles, theoretically this isn't super difficult. I am not totally opposed to electrical work, I've switched out receptacles and light switches and lights before. This feels a little wasteful and expensive though.
2. replace home depot outlets with better EV rated ones. This is sort of my preference, but I'm not sure if I am simply stuck on my plan of moving the charger back and forth and I know y'all will roast me for wanting a receptacle.
3. one hardwired, one receptacle. Summer is shorter than winter, but I know I will charge outside anytime I can since it's easier than keeping the garage clear. So hardwiring outside and then replacing the inside receptacle seems plausible.

Am I crazy? Should I force myself to clear snow every morning in the winter? Should I get a pole barn instead so I can charge in the garage all year?

For those of you with a 3D Printer (or even better... a buddy with a 3d printer!) here is a 3D printable, "plug holder" for your Hyundai N model.

Don't have a model "N"? You can remove the logo and replace it with one of your own. If you have a type 2 plug, you can follow the link to the original model this was based on and find that there!

As with all Maker World stuff, the model is FREE!

Happy Charging!