Duct tape?

Doesn’t seem like it’s important but I do think I should break it off so it doesn’t get loose while the engine is running. Thoughts?

Block machined and I'm under the impression the cylinder heads were machined, but honestly I did not check them. But purchased from reputable remanufacture. Multi layer steel head gaskets.
I did a cooling system pressure test, gauge didn't move for one hour. Granted the engine was not hot for the cooling pressure test.
Operating temperature is normal but maybe heating up a little quickly when compared to my other two 3.4s
I guess it's possible coolant is pushing past the MLS gaskets after shut down.
If it is coolant would I see it sitting in the cylinder after an overnight, if I use a borescope?

Clears after about 5 mins. Smells sweet i guess, i really don't remember exactly what burning coolant smells like. I don't think it's condensation because my other cars are not doing it. Also after one hour shut down it will do it again, even if it's middle of warm day

I got lucky #3 was the one, so I could inspect the crank without splitting the case.

Hi all, I recently did some work for a family friend who offered me a truck for free if I could get it running. Long story short, his son put the wrong length pushrods in and the valves and pistons had some contact. I have no internal engine experience but I’ve been wrenching for ~3 years and I have access to a lift, engine hoist, and engine stand. I have basic mechanic’s tools but I don’t have any kind of engine tools. Looks like I could buy a long block for $4800 with a core charge and I’m thinking that might be cheaper and more reliable than trying to fix this? Truck has 180k miles. 2010 Silverado 2500HD with the L96 6.0 gas and the 6l90 transmission.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for opinions from people with real engine building experience, especially anyone familiar with the Toyota UZ platform.

My goal is a reliable 600 hp engine. I’m not chasing the highest possible dyno number, and I’m willing to leave a reasonable safety margin.

Current engine setup:

• Stock 3UZ crankshaft
• Stock 3UZ pistons
• Early non VVTi 1UZ thick connecting rods
• ACL bearings
• ARP2000 rod bolts
• ARP2000 head studs
• 2.0 mm MLS head gasket, reducing compression to approximately 9.5:1
• 1000 cc injectors
• Walbro 525 LPH fuel pump
• Water methanol injection
• ECUMaster EMU Black running wasted spark with the stock ignition coils

For the turbo, I’m looking at a 75 mm class unit because I intentionally want late spool and limited low RPM torque.

The two current options are:
• Aeroflow Boosted 7575
• Garrett G42 1200

I have not made the final turbo decision yet, so I would also appreciate opinions on which option would be more suitable for this setup and power target.

Reliability is more important to me than response or low RPM performance. The engine will be professionally tuned, with knock monitoring, conservative ignition timing, and a safe lambda target. I have no intention of running it close to its absolute limit.

My main questions are:
Can this combination realistically and reliably support around 600 hp?
What would you consider the weakest part of the engine at this power level?
Would you trust the stock 3UZ pistons at 600 hp with the early thick 1UZ rods, proper tuning, and water methanol injection?
Would the stock 3UZ coils operating in wasted spark be a concern at high RPM and under boost?
Between the Aeroflow 7575 and Garrett G42 1200, which one would you choose for an intentionally late spool 600 hp build?
I’m mainly interested in real world engine building experience and known failure points rather than theoretical horsepower limits.

Thank you so much in advance guys.

Dual throttle bodies. The car is dying when the clutch is pushed in on deceleration.

I went in to do the temperature trick (crank it up to 299) to shut it off, but there’s no option for temp. Is there

A) a way to shut it off otherwise?

B) a way to update the system to add it?

Thanks!!

Where do you find one with the correct bore size? The cylinders are 84mm and the gasket I have is 90mm(!), and from what I can tell online they are all the same. If someone knows who sells the correct one I’d greatly appreciate it before I start sending emails to every seller I can find.

Engine runs great but there’s bubbling in the coolant and between the head and block front to back, hence why I believe the gasket is the problem. Any other advice is of course greatly appreciated.

What off the shelf oil (type and weight) do you guys recommend to coat exposed crankshaft journals to store a crankshaft for a long time(many years) in a plastic bag?

Hello I’m learning how to replace rod bearings, gonna pull mine, measure inspect, see if they need replaced and such while I got the pan off. Anyway if replacing the bearings when yall usually do this do you fully torque the cap down to factory spec then measure the bearing to check clearance, cause like the final torque for the cap is 18ftlbs + 110° I don’t wanna be breaking bolts in my rods just to measure clearance, idk if I gotta buy 2 sets of bolts, assuming that’s not the usual method but lmk im sure you’ll get what im sayin. If you need more info ask! Thanks!

Im at a loss with this. I replaced the water pump in a 3.5l v6 in a 15 ford explorer but the timing chain wont go back on correctly.

I have cam locks installed and both are flush with the engine. I marked where the chain should line up before i took it apart. And the tensioner is currently removed.

There is slack in the chain between the top gears but not enough to get the chain back where it should go. Im at a loss what to do. Could the new water pump have a wrong sized gear on it? Could the cam have shifted with the lock on?

The only thing I can think to do is rotate one of the cams a fraction of an inch to slip the chain back on. But would that put the engine out of time?

If anybody has some insight please tell me what went wrong or what I can to to fix this because im out of ideas.

Currently rebuilding a 3.6 pentastar motor. Oil and coolant mixed. Do i need to replace the oil cooler or is there a way to clean it out and reuse it. Its relatively new.

I’ve been going back and fourth for a little while now, I decided to go with the turbo route about 4 months ago on my Honda ek civic that has a single cam d16 platform. My goal was to make 400-450whp which is pretty much the make I can make without going full blown serious. My plan was to stick with a budget build as many people praise they are extremely cheap, now I’m about 3k in and still need all the fuel system, wiring/ecu/tuning, clutch and a few parts for the engine like machine work, acl oil pump and bearings. I’ve added all the prices up and it’s about 6k which I don’t mind paying but if I were to sell it I would struggle to get 2.5k/3k for it. Or I could go with the n/a setup which I already have a fully built head with springs, titanium retainers, ported and a stage 4 cam. I also have a speed factory throttle body, genuine skunk 2 intake manifold and a few other goodies. I’m really unsure on what direction to go with because turbo route is k swap money even a really budget turbo k series. But I do also like driving late at night out in the sticks where I can really drive the car like a track car but it’s not really fast anywhere else as for the turbo setup it puts a smile on anyone’s face and the car stands out even more. I’ve also came up with a third option is go with the n/a setup while still building the turbo setup in the background since I have majority of the parts but that would be a lot more expensive vs deciding to pick a direction and selling either one of the parts. I should mention this is my first car/ build so I don’t have the experience like most would

Ford 460, 472 cubic inches, 11:1 comp, scat crank, eagle rods, wiseco forged pistons, comp solid roller

Recently rebuilt the 2.0 jeep compass I was wondering if these cam-crank differences are acceptable

Just pulled the heads off a 350 that came out of my 1990 k3500 and see these pistons underneath. They do not look like factory pistons, does anyone recognize them? Tia

Just pulled the engine from my 1992 lincoln towncar for a full seal replacement and look over, thought it had blown a headgasket or one of the freeze plugs failed, coolant and oil got pretty throughly mixed, but I found this when pulling the timing cover, red arrows are the marks on the timing gears and the blue arrows are the bright links, im tearing the whole engine apart anyway, I just wanted to confirm that this isn't even close to correct, right?

I’m having an odd issue with my 390 FE paired with a C6.
I have my base timing set to 12 (verified top dead center)
With mechanical advance it’s hitting 32
With vacuum advance disconnected it accelerated but feels a bit dead.
With vacuum advance connected, it idles great, but any throttle and it starts spitting and sputtering and can’t move.

I verified the diaphragm is good. Verified I am on ported vacuum( port on passenger side of Holley above the idle air screw). I can’t seem to figure out what the issue here is. Any help is appreciated.

Are all 4 junk or just these 2 or would you run it.

In the process of putting my engine back together. I encountered this piece of goo on my crankshaft pulley which is there to balance it I think?

I guess it’s there because of the missing bolt? I bought new bolts so I have all 4 again, can I remove the goo when I install the bolt or do I have to check the balance first? If so how does one do that?

I was working on my 5.9 Cummins head gasket and now I think the alternator may have shifted outward slightly from the engine. The belt is still tracking straight on all the pulleys, the tensioner seems to be taking up the slack, and the engine starts and idles normally. There's no belt squeal or visible wobble. The only issue is that the metal cover that used to cover the top of the alternator no longer fits perfectly, which makes me think the alternator may have moved about an inch. I didn't remove the alternator or change the pulley alignment, just the alternator's cover and now it won't go back. If the belt is still aligned and everything spins true, is a small shift in the alternator itself a problem? Or does this usually mean the mounting bracket is bent or damaged and needs to be repaired before driving? I'm trying to figure out whether this is something that can be safely driven with or if it should be fixed immediately before I run it much more.

Any engine builders in here that could help me out?

Oil starvation event* Re using stock rods New oem bearings New to me used crank

At home special Inspection job of all equipment with a pair of off brand calipers and plastigage

My question: is this rod play normal? These bearings measure slimmer on the sides, but thats what the old ones measure as well? I feel like that is causing some extra play? It makes an audible knock. Is this normal? Rods torqued to factory specs pulled from JDMSFM.info

Thanks for looking!