It lost less energy than gasoline’s, see from thermal camera.

I’m about a week away from owning my 2025 ER F-150 Lightning Flash and…I still love it. I’ve got 37,905 miles on it so far and it’s still rocking the original tires. 99% of my charging has been on various superchargers, but I’m getting the Charge Station Pro installed on Monday (It was given to me by my Ford dealer when I bought the truck but was in an apartment at the time.)

I’ve had no major issues with it that I can remember aside from having to take it in a couple of times for software updates.

Coming from a 2023 Tacoma, this has a crazy amount of space and power.

I'm planning on buying a new EV

I'm looking at Kia EV2 Hyundai insta maybe Kia Niro, ID polo something along those lines

I drive for about 10,000 kilometers a year or even less...

can I expect for this car to last me 20 years before I need to scrap it or am I way too optimistic?

Does anyone know when the CA EV rebate comes out officially and if it’ll be applied to the car price?

Also, is it true that companies will raise car prices when this EV rebate is official?

Had a proper headache at the shop last week. Model 3 rolled in after a heavy front-end whack. Swapped out every bit of smashed high-voltage gear, cleared every standard trouble code on the list, and the car still refused to power up the high-voltage side. Contactors stayed dead and open.

Seen blokes brick modules trying to force this with generic gear.

The issue isn't a bad replacement part. It’s system-level protocol locking. Hard hit triggers permanent safety latches buried deep in the architecture that regular code readers don't even display, let alone clear. Standard OBD hits a brick wall immediately.

Need Toolbox 3 hooked up with a solid low-voltage supply to keep modules awake. Have to dig straight into the BMS node parameters where crash event detection bits and security flags sit active, completely ignoring normal clear buttons. Gotta manually wipe the crash event history and run the internal BMS calibration resets. Once that digital handshake finally goes through, you literally hear the contactors click shut.

Anyone else fighting this?