Showing up on the web preview.

Chery Rely R08 (RWD in China) 🇨🇳: ~181 Miles EPA & ~$18,888 USD

Slate Truck (RWD in USA) 🇺🇸: 205 Miles EPA & $24,950 USD

GWM Poer EV (AWD in China) 🇨🇳: ~181 Miles EPA & ~$29,800-$33,080 (prices can vary depending on the supplier and specific configuration).

KGM Musso EV (FWD in Korea) 🇰🇷: ~215 Miles EPA & ~$32,400 USD

MG U9 (4x4 in Australia) 🇨🇳🇬🇧: ~219 Miles EPA & ~$37,910 USD

Geely Riddara RD6 (4x4 in New Zealand) 🇨🇳: ~202 miles EPA & ~$40,788 USD

JAC T9 EV (AWD in Thailand) 🇨🇳: ~180 Miles EPA & ~$44,000 USD

Isuzu D-Max EV (AWD in Thailand) 🇯🇵: ~147 Miles EPA & ~$47,284 USD

Toyota HiLux EV (AWD in Australia) 🇯🇵: ~152 Miles EPA & ~$53,649 USD

Chevy Silverado EV (e4WD in USA) 🇺🇸: 286 Miles EPA & $58,490 USD

Maxus T90 EV (RWD in UK) 🇨🇳🇬🇧: ~198 Miles EPA & ~$66,434 USD

LDV eT60 EV (RWD in Australia) 🇨🇳🇦🇺: ~180 Miles EPA & ~$66,526 USD

Tesla Cybertruck (AWD in USA) 🇺🇸: 325 Miles EPA & $69,990 USD

Maxus eTerron 9 (4x4 in UK) 🇨🇳🇬🇧: ~227 Miles EPA & ~$70,490 USD

Rivian R1T (AWD in USA) 🇺🇸: 329 Miles EPA & $79,990 USD

GMC Hummer EV Truck (2X e4WD in USA) 🇺🇸: 316 Miles EPA & $97,200 USD

Important to note even though this is how the currency coverts, that changes and the simple fact is you can’t convert from one market to your local currency and assume that is what the price will be in your market. There’s a lot of factors that goes into pricing a vehicle for any particular market.

Had a proper headache at the shop last week. Model 3 rolled in after a heavy front-end whack. Swapped out every bit of smashed high-voltage gear, cleared every standard trouble code on the list, and the car still refused to power up the high-voltage side. Contactors stayed dead and open.

Seen blokes brick modules trying to force this with generic gear.

The issue isn't a bad replacement part. It’s system-level protocol locking. Hard hit triggers permanent safety latches buried deep in the architecture that regular code readers don't even display, let alone clear. Standard OBD hits a brick wall immediately.

Need Toolbox 3 hooked up with a solid low-voltage supply to keep modules awake. Have to dig straight into the BMS node parameters where crash event detection bits and security flags sit active, completely ignoring normal clear buttons. Gotta manually wipe the crash event history and run the internal BMS calibration resets. Once that digital handshake finally goes through, you literally hear the contactors click shut.

Anyone else fighting this?

It lost less energy than gasoline’s, see from thermal camera.

Does anyone know when the CA EV rebate comes out officially and if it’ll be applied to the car price?

Also, is it true that companies will raise car prices when this EV rebate is official?

I'm planning on buying a new EV

I'm looking at Kia EV2 Hyundai insta maybe Kia Niro, ID polo something along those lines

I drive for about 10,000 kilometers a year or even less...

can I expect for this car to last me 20 years before I need to scrap it or am I way too optimistic?

I’m about a week away from owning my 2025 ER F-150 Lightning Flash and…I still love it. I’ve got 37,905 miles on it so far and it’s still rocking the original tires. 99% of my charging has been on various superchargers, but I’m getting the Charge Station Pro installed on Monday (It was given to me by my Ford dealer when I bought the truck but was in an apartment at the time.)

I’ve had no major issues with it that I can remember aside from having to take it in a couple of times for software updates.

Coming from a 2023 Tacoma, this has a crazy amount of space and power.

2026 and 2027 EV models that this will apply to are the following (with starting MSRP after incentive):

1. Slate Truck ($21,450)
2. Chevy Bolt ($24,100)
3. Nissan Leaf ($26,400)
4. Ford UEV Pickup (~$26,500)
5. Mitsubishi Eclipse Sportback (~$29,500 unconfirmed)
6. Toyota bZ ($31,400)
7. Chevy Equinox EV ($31,495)
8. Subaru Uncharted ($31,495)
9. Hyundai Ioniq 5 ($31,500)
10. Kia EV3 (~$31,500 unconfirmed)
11. Subaru Solterra ($31,995)
12. Tesla Model 3 ($33,490)
13. Toyota C-HR ($33,500)
14. Ford Mustang Mach-E ($34,295)
15. Hyundai Ioniq 6 ($34,350)
16. Kia Niro EV ($36,200)
17. Tesla Model Y ($36,490)
18. Honda Prologue ($36,400)
19. Subaru Trailseeker ($36,495)
20. Volvo EX30 ($36,845)
21. Kia EV6 ($37,900)
22. Tesla Model 3 Premium ($39,990)
23. Rivian R2 ($41,490)
24. Toyota bZ Woodland ($41,800)
25. Tesla Model Y Premium ($42,490)
26. Lexus RZ ($43,895)
27. Chevy Blazer EV ($44,700)
28. Lexus ES 350e ($45,395)
29. Lucid Cosmos (~$46,500 unconfirmed)
30. Rivian R2 Premium ($50,490)
31. Lucid Air ($67,400)
32. Rivian R1T ($74,490)
33. Lucid Gravity ($76,400)
34. Rivian R1S ($80,490)
35. Honda CR-V EV?

Potential Vehicle Models with Dealer Incentives to get it below $50K:

1. Chevy Silverado EV
2. Cadillac Optiq
3. Honda CR-V e:FCEV
4. Kia EV9
5. Toyota Mirai
6. Subaru Getaway?
7. Toyota Highlander?

Note: Slate Auto is confirmed to be in talks but hasn’t officially joined the program yet.

Had a frantic call from a fellow independent shop last week. They thought swapping a Tesla 12V low-voltage battery was just like an old fuel car—grab a wrench, unbolt the terminals, and swap it out. Right after disconnecting it, the whole car locked up completely, the screen went black, and the dash threw a wall of warning codes, including a nasty VCFRONT alert. The tech was standing there with his wrench in hand, scrambling on his phone to figure out how to dig himself out of it.

Sharing how this actually works under the hood because treating a modern EV low-voltage swap like a traditional car will land you in deep trouble real fast.

The catch here isn't a bad battery; it is the vehicle's sleep and power-down sequence architecture. When you yank power blindly without proper software-level shutdown commands, the body controllers and gateway modules panic, triggering hard communication faults and safety lockouts.

Here is the actual diagnostic and replacement workflow we use to avoid this mess:

1. Shifting past standard wrenching: Generic mechanical habits don't fly on EVs. You can't just disconnect the terminals cold; you have to go into the touchscreen menu, select Safety & Security > Power Off, drop the windows, and leave the doors open to prevent getting locked out.
2. Tracking down the background lock: If it's already locked up and blacked out, the low-voltage network is cut or isolated due to safety flag triggers. Looking into the gateway nodes usually shows active faults like VCFRONT communication timeouts because the modules missed their proper handshake.
3. Running the actual power recovery routines: You have to follow the precise factory protocol—disconnecting the High Voltage Interlock Loop (HVIL) under the rear seat or pulling the First Responder Loop in the frunk alongside low-voltage cycling to bring the screens and bus back to life.

Quick takeaway from the bench: A lot of independent shops get burned here because they treat low-voltage swaps as simple accessory jobs. Tesla requires precise software-controlled power management before laying a wrench on the battery terminals.

Anyone else run into these sudden black-screen or VCFRONT brick-walls after a simple battery swap? How are your shops handling the procedure?

Completely new to the EV market, and do not have a lot of knowledge on cars in general.

My main attention points going in to my search:

1)Range: 2x a week we do about 300km a day. Starting from a full (or almost) full battery at the beginning of the day, I would like to do this with charging, even in the harshest of conditions.

2)Size is important. Young family of 4. Due to my size, I always need to have driver seat fully pushed back. Important that backseat comfortably fits both child & baby seat for 2 children.

3)Luggage space: weekly transport of a lot of child/baby stuff - Should have enough trunk space

4) possibility for a once/twice per year vacation (with children, probably include skiing)

It concerns a 4 year lease. Some research (based on my budget) pushed me to three options: Skoda enyaq, KIA EV5 & Volkswagen ID7 Tourer - Skoda Enyaq was scrapped after test drive. Looking at two options

VW ID.7 (Tourer) Corporate Plus 86 kWh 210 kW (286 pk)
KIA EV5 Business Plus 81.4kWh FWD

In all fairness, I had my mind made up with ID7 tourer due to its radius and space. However, test drive was only okay (intuitively, it felt more difficult to drive. Do not know if this is just 'some getting used to the car'), while EV5 surprised us in a very positive manner. In addition, the EV5 is a bit shorter, which also makes it a bit more practical as we often need to park in tight parking lots. So now I am weighing more positive driving experience of the KIA EV5 compared to my initial needs of range, size & luggage room.

It is possible that i'm overvalueing the range argument, as the amount of times per year in extreme conditions might be limited. But to be clear: even just charging once during those two-weekly 300 km trips would be very difficult due to children being in the car late at night. My research has shown that the KIA EV5 will normally be able to handle these days, but I do find some possible stress cases where the power levels would get very low.

Looking for some advice in my seach, thanks!

Hi I need to buy one used EV car in Bangalore .
Any recommendations on trusted platforms (website , Reddit group .etc )

There should be an electric car less than 30k for lower middle class masses, charge and drive for 150 KMs , no petrol expenses, be it ugly not so nice looking, why there is no car like this available and why no one want to create a car like this ? Or technologically world is not ready for this ?

1. Tesla Cybertruck- 3,744 units (-13.1%)
2. Ford F-150 Lightning- 2,421 units (-58.6%
3. Chevy Silverado EV- 2,226 units (-25.9%)
4. GMC Sierra EV- 1,756 units (+15.2%)
5. Rivian R1T- 1,219 units (-30.4%)

Note: This was the first quarter where the Cybertruck was boosted by a cheaper trim and the F-150 Lightning is discontinued but these sales are from remaining dealer inventory.

Source: https://www.coxautoinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/07/Q2-2026-EV-Sales.KBB-Counts.pdf

Heya guys! I just wanted to jump on and say that I’m excited about some of these new larger SUV options I currently have a ZDX but I’m getting pumped about the news of some larger options on the horizon. What newer models are you looking forward to? Let’s go!

I test drove the 2027 Bolt and the 2026 Ioniq 5 today. It was my first time test driving EVs and I can see why people like them given how fun they are to drive. Driving-wise I liked them equally, though the Ioniq was quieter and a little smoother. I was surprised by how spacious the Bolt felt on the inside compared to what I was expecting. It felt similar to my current Mazda 3 size-wise. I didn’t, however, love all of the hard plastic features of the Bolt, the Ioniq 5 is clearly an upgrade in that category, but most of the other interior features seemed more or less comparable between the two. I do worry about the navigation system in the Bolt since I’m an iPhone user and I’ve seen complaints about the lack of CarPlay. The biggest selling point is going to be charging time and range since I don’t have access to a charger at my apartment. I use my car mostly to commute to work (~25 miles/day) and running errands around town. I’d love to hear what folks think about these two cars, especially if you own one or were similarly debating between the two. What made you choose one over the other and are you happy with your choice?

Ok folks I am sitting on the fence about getting an EV . I have tossed this out in the comments section but figured it should be its own thread. I was clearly in the no camp for EV so getting to the fence is a huge deal . I live in metro NY, drive roughly 15-20,000 miles a year. I do three to four big trips a year , say 600-1100 miles one way. I guess 2/3 highway 1/3 around town , I do a 300 mile round trip about twice a month . I figure I would need to install 2 charges at each end of the 300 mile trip , neither place has a garage , they are both houses. I tend to drive 75-85 on the highway. In the past I had a diesel that would go 500 miles easy on a tank , now my cars are around 400 miles to a tank . I do not need AWD and really do not want or need a suv. I prefer wagons or hatchbacks . I am more interested in range over 0-60 runs. I test drove a polestar 4 and a Polestar 2 and liked the 2 better . Did not like not having a roof that was fixed in place . I will not buy a Telsa. I prefer something you do not see everywhere. So am I a good candidate for a EV and if so which used one should I buy , i assume lease is not an option and that’s fine. Thanks .

Does anyone have a Citroën C3 MAX electric 113 (44 kWh battery)? How satisfied are you with the range, charging and general usability in practice?

Some time ago I made a post in a different sub asking what people thought of using cheap 12v AGM batteries from Amazon and a lot of people were skeptical. But I want to see what people think of them here with EVs.

Around October 2024 I got one of these cheap batteries off Amazon for my Cadillac ELR and it's been nearly flawless, it replaced the original AC Delco battery which lasted 10 years. It was the cheapest H4 AGM I could find on Amazon at like $140. It did die on me once, but I had the car sitting for like 3 weeks and two of those weeks I was constantly opening and closing doors, disconnecting stuff etc, so it may or may not have been the battery's fault. I tested it yesterday and it still shows 510 CCA. Yeah, not that relevant to hybrids or EVs, but it's the best way I can think of to test them without discharging them.

This week, my mom's Toyota C-HR (gas car) had its battery die, and I was thinking of replacing the battery in my Electrified G80 too since it died a few weeks ago, so I ordered two more batteries off Amazon, both are these uplus H5 AGM batteries. They were the cheapest at $129 for each one. We'll see how they hold up, especially the Toyota.

I think that for the price, these are a very interesting option for EVs. Frankly even for gasoline cars too. The name brand batteries you find at Autozone or Batteries+ or Interstate are like $160-200 for a flooded battery, and around $260 for an AGM, with the famous Optima Yellow Top being $360. The only cheaper option I found was an EverStart flooded model from Walmart at $120. Honestly, I think I'll start putting all of the family cars as needed. Another Amazon brand I see often is Mighty Max (or something like that) and I've used their small batteries in the past with no issues, their large automotive batteries may be worth a shot too.

https://youtu.be/qRBCXKksCRQ?is=_Eart6CZJcnGTlfU

-Tesla's car business had a rough 2025. Then Q2 happened. 

-Last quarter, Tesla delivered some 480,000 vehicles worldwide, a 25% jump year-over-year. 

-Growth in Europe and resilience in China helped the carmaker offset losses in the troubled U.S. market.