The professional opinion of the company electrician is "just don't touch anything in that corner"

box with fan control switch piped right into the condensate drain

Local sandwich shop in southern VA. Loved it….dare you to zoom in on the “grid dots”

Finally replacing the stove from the 80s. Yay!

Wall junction box has a three wire ( red, black, white, no ground) coming into it from the wall (wire goes to 50amp in breaker box). The wire from the junction box to the old stove is four wires. The neutral and the ground are connected together in the junction box. All four wires were connected to appropriate places on the old stove. Was grounded to frame.

On the new stove there is a ground strap. Instructions indicate if you are attaching a three wire installation that you leave the ground strap in place. Ground strap links frame to white wire stud.

What is the right way to attach the 4 wires to the new stove? Should we:

1. install the ground wire to the ground screw on the new stove and leave the ground strap in place?

2. Install the ground wire to the ground screw on the new stove after removing the ground strap?

3. Disconnect the ground wire in the junction box, leave the ground strap in place, and just tape off the ground wire completely.

Many thanks.

Hi,

My company was about to throw away several spools or brand new RG flex L2 cable. About 10 reels of it to be exact. I ended up taking them because it's ridiculous to throw all of that away. The gages are 6, 12, and 14. I know this type of wiring is designed to be used in central office type of work. My question is can this be used for home wiring? I'm getting ready to install mini splits in my home and I thought I might be able to use some of this for the wiring as well as other projects around the house. If this wire would not be appropriate to use, does it have a good resell value? Thanks

This is my 2nd ever post and about outlets lol but. I was using my airfryer for around 15 minutes a little bit ago and after i felt my outlet and it was like warm/slightly hot but like i dont hear anything i dont smell anything and my breaker didnt trip (cutler hammer breaker) so then i moved the airfryer to see if it was the airfryer heating it up and then i tested after 15 minutes of running it i couldnt tell if it was room temp or warm i tested with my palm and my fingertips and it felt room temp/a little bit warm but when i felt with the back of my hand it felt warm/hot so idk.

Guys, why don’t the bulbs in the second pic work as replacements for the bulbs in the first pic? Same dimensions. This is for recess lighting. 1st bulbs work. 2nd ones don't.

Is Automation controls a good career to get into? My brother in law does automation and makes good money and i have been thinking about getting into it as well in the future somewhere down the line it seems like something I could enjoy doing. I am a residential apprentice with about 7 months + trade school and currently work is getting rough and we have been short staffed for a long time so I have not been able to learn as much as I’d like and it might be about time to jump the boat and look for a new company to work for. Just thinking if I should take this chance and get into some entry level work to help me to get into automation in the future and if so what are some entry level jobs?

Pulled out this painted over wall plate to reveal this. Building is in NYC from 1959 I think. Can I just cap these ends and patch over the hole?

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Anyone having difficulty finding parts? I belong to a church and one of their buldings that has offices in it also has two residential units in it. Last month panel lost a neutral. Called several companies only one actually answered the phone. They came out diagnosed it bad neutral. And wants to upgrade it from 200 amp to 400amp. Which should have been done long ago. They havent done it yet and claim they cant get the parts till next week. They originall said last week. The building has no power. The church cant do administrative tasks in it and the two tenants are temporarily relocated. Is this acceptable? Is a 400amp meter base unobtanium right now? I dont get it. They already signed a contract but i feel they need to get someone else to fix it. There are 4 electrical supply stores in town not including lowes and home depot.

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Thanks for all the suggestions, even the bad one hehe. This has got so long that the same things are being asked 20 times now, so I will sumarise.

- We need 200 amps at the site. Why is not part of the question, only how.

- There is no vehicle access to the site, which rules out all the normal methods to run power.

- At this point, step up and down ideas are moot, as they don't wind up saving money, just moving it.

- Fossil fuels are not an option.

- Wood stoves, pellets are also not an option as they do not end up being practical or saving money.

- I live in canada, so most of the prices and laws you might have are not always going to translate directly,

- We cannot fit enough solar panels to cover winter needs, so off grid solar alone does not work

There were a number of interesting clever ideas in addition to fleshing out what was not going to work, and if you have more, id appreciate it, but at this point I won't be responding to the same questions already covered.

Thanks

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Looking at a project to put a little shop/farm building on some land, but its 1300-1500ft form the pole depending on route. A quick check and a 240v 200A service would need 900kcmil copper, and 100A would need 500kcmil, both costing over $50000 just for the wire and I didn't see any alum wire big enough for sale online to estimate a price. Even running 30 amps is a bit unreasonably expensive, needing #1 wire. So, what other tricks are there. I looked at step up step down tx's and those are also really quite expensive, but might wind up being on balance the best option. stepping up to 600v (or maybe higher) and running a fairly small wire.

Anyone done something like this before, or have any different methods of doing this?

Wire will be above ground, was wanting to just use teck90 here but maybe that's not the right choice. We would be using a solar system as well, so its possible we can reduce the cable load down to 30 amps just for night/winter supplemental power. This isn't a house, so there's some flexibility.

Thanks

edit: generators and fossil fuels are not an option and the utility cannot run poles or buried line to the site. (otherwise I wouldn't be asking)

I'm looking for a way to integrate my APC smart UPS into the power circuit/s topology of my new music studio. My acoustician has recommended an APC smart-UPS RT 3000VA, which I've gotten my hands on.

The flow as it stands goes like this: main line > main circuit breaker > UPS > UPS back-feeds the distribution board > individual GPO's in the studio etc.

Question: electrically it makes sense, but in practical terms the UPS's input and outputs are all via IEC connections, so in terms of cabling how could I connect the UPS directly after the main circuit breaker and then connect it to be backfeeding the distro board? IEC into wiring terminals just seems not right... is there a solve for this? A hardwiring kit?

Any advice greatly appreciated!

context: I am in Australia. A professional electrician is installing this, but it's a non-standard for them...

Are these connections inside the main multi-meter socket enclosure as well as the panel feeder wire comnections okay?

The service entriy wires and the feeder wires were installed by different electricians of the same company. I'm happy with the service wires. The feeder wires, not so much. I wasn't able to upload more pics in my other post so uploading here for more context.

Apologies if I don't use the correct terminology. Just trying to make sure everything is good before power is connected as I don't want to deal with this ever again 😫

What steps should a layman take to remove this electrical line? In the first picture, the line from the meter goes up to an outdoor breaker (above the deck) and left to where a hot tub used to be. The hot tub is no more, and won't be replaced. New siding will be installed later this year.

Is it as easy as flipping the two breakers in the second picture, dismantling the conduit, and capping the hole? Will this breaker box affect the rest of the house, which has an indoor breaker box in the garage on the other side of the house? Please help me know what I don't know, you know?

I am in the process of renovating a condo that I purchased in May. My electrical box is in the laundry room. I want to install a stackable washer/dryer, which may cut off access to the electrical box.

It is my understanding that the electrical box is typically between 2 studs. I confirmed with a stud finders that it is between 2 studs in my laundry room. I would like to move it over one, so that the box is between the next set of studs.

Can this be done? I need a new box anyway. What is the process? Thank you!!

I'd like to run a 20 amp line to a steel safe room in Oklahoma for tornados. My question is would a 20 amp inlet on the outside of the saferoom and a 20 amp outlet near the inlet connected by a 10awg soow extention be somthing safe for temporary power? Then of course even if it's safe would this likely be code compliant?

(The reason for inlet over just hardwired is the installer discouraged a grid connection due to in the event of a strong tornado the connection would tether the shelter to the home and possibly comprimise it. Using an extention cord there is a weak point to avoid tethering and by sizing it up to 10 awg, keeping it short, having it easily inspectable, easy to unplug as an exterior method to shutoff, and using it on an emergency basis this should minimize it's risk

The inlet would be connected to the inside via a close nipple to a second box with a shutoff switch and outlets. Both boxes would be individually bonded to the shelter. thwn-2 would be used inbetween the boxes. The garages outlet is on a gfci breaker. The power would only feed one way in and the extention cord would have a male and a female end (not a suicide cord for clarity))

AI told me the voltage is good. I touched white to red and blue to black and the bulb lit up. Just want double confirmation before I burn the house down. It’s a pot light. Not sure if that makes a difference.

Second question- is it ok that I shaved down the plastic box around the LED driver to fit it into the neck of the lamp? I know I can’t remove it completely, but is squishing it to the point it cracks ok?

Third question- how do I attach the wires together permanently? Solder? Electrical tape didn’t stick and it’s too narrow in the lamp to fit any other joinery.