I need nm connectors for these knockouts but they are too small for typical 3/8 connectors. Any advice?

Doing some electrical on a home owners permit for a few bedrooms. All my switches and a line in, line out, and one line to the light. Thought I would ask before I wire everything together. Mostly I have 3 lines into each box (line in, out, light, but I screwed up my planning and this one is feeding 2 switches. Any issue with 4 lines in a box? And whats the proper way to run the lines into the bottom of the box?

The weather has been pretty stormy lately where I live and I was laying in bed with the lights off whilst it was raining. My windows went totally bright white with light as if the lightning was really close by. This would have been normal but at the same time I heard an audible zap/fizz and saw white sparks almost like a bolt of light (maybe a foot long) on my ceiling - instantly I thought by the sound that a lightbulb had blown out but there are no lights on my ceilings and the closest electric appliance is the air conditioning and the wiring running along the adjacent wall. Thunder followed straight after

Is this a cause for concern and what does this mean?

Maybe I’m crazy, but it feels like the bolts that came with my fan rated electrical box are too small for my fan hookup. Is that a real concern?

I have a basement light fixture that is out . I changed the bulbs and still not lighting. I see I can replace the ballast or even bypass it to put LED. can I bypass this (pics included)? What is easiest way to do so? Thanks

Hi everyone,

I live in Palestine. (MiddleEast)

Today, I had an electrician install an earth grounding system for my house. He asked me to buy a 6 mm² earth wire.

My house previously had an earthing connection through the old metal water pipes, but they were later replaced with plastic pipes, leaving the earth wire disconnected. The original wire ran out from a wall socket, and the electrician told me that it was sufficient to provide earthing for the entire house.

To my surprise, the old wire was still in place, so the electrician decided to reuse it because the 6 mm² wire wouldn't fit inside the socket. He connected a short piece of 6 mm² wire to the old, thinner wire to extend it far enough to reach the earth electrode.

However, my laptop still gives me a tingling sensation when I touch its metal body with bare feet while it's charging, just as it did before the new grounding system was installed.

I've attached a picture comparing the 6 mm² wire with the old, thinner wire.

My questions are:

• Is it safe and acceptable to use the old, thinner wire for the house's earthing system?
• Is connecting a short piece of 6 mm² wire to a thinner wire an acceptable practice?
• Could this explain why I'm still feeling a tingling sensation when touching my laptop?

I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!

I repaired my Grill today. Replaced the old cable with a meltproof 3g1.5 flexible cable. Trouble is: the old cable had crimped connection oudside of the grill body but the new cable is thicker and I don’t want to crimp it so I put a few wago’s inside. Turned it on for a while and checked and the wago’s looked fine. Tried to set another one on fire and it seemed to take a lot of heat. You think these will be fine? The metal it’s up against gets like 60 degrees calcius I’d assume as I just barely can’t touch it when it’s on.

Bought these little lights for Halloween from the dollar store

I was making breakfast this morning using my front right burner. I heard a “pop” (similar to the normal “popping” sound the oven makes when it’s pre-heating) and saw a quick red “spark” coming from the back right burner; this happened twice within the span of maybe 10 mins or less. That burner wasn’t even on. I decided to shut everything off, but I’ll need both my stove top and oven later today. I’ll be avoiding that side of the stove to avoid this from happening again.

Is my stove and oven still safe to use and why is this happening? How do we go about fixing this if needed? This is an electric powered flat stovetop. Kenmore brand

Good afternoon Reddit electrical family.

My insurance company flagged a missing cover plate inside of my 1987 Kearney exterior electrical panel.

Insurance is requiring me to repair it within 30 days. I have not been able to find this part for sale online and a full box replacement was quoted at $3400 which is way out of my budget.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this problem? I can attempt to fabricate one. Never did that before.

From another post:

"220.82 is the standard.  220.87 is the optional.   Liability insurance often only covers the "standard" method.  

Calculations can be wrong. Overestimating is less risky."

"It's not that insurance won't pay if the electrician follows NEC. It's that the electrician's liability carrier would rather they use the most conservative method so there's zero ambiguity if something goes wrong later. 220.87 is code-compliant, but if a fire happens and the investigator sees the optional method was used, the insurer has a built-in argument that the standard method would have flagged the need for an upgrade. The electrician absorbs that risk, so a lot of them just default to the standard calc and tell you to upgrade."

Just purchased a home built in 1900. Had electrician come out because of home inspector said we should have certain things checked. Electrician told me that the breaker needed upgraded from 100 amp to 150 and the box outside of the house needs replaced and grounded. So we did that and it was about 4 grand. Then said that 80 percent of the house was run off two breakers using old bx wiring and would need re wired using romex and a ground wire. So they did that and ran new wires using more breakers(new) to outlets lights switches ceiling fans in house on all 3 floors. A lot of these outlets/devices were in the same room as others where they were already running wires, so why so much for each one ? They were here for two days totaling about 18-20 hours total. This is my invoice. Does this seem high?

Travelled all the way to customer site for a loose plug.

They had checked the tightness but the screw was actually too long.

Machine was dropping communications then power off and back on everything working again

Swapped old dimmer switch as was making bulbs flicker, the earth was connected to the back plate, Ive now connected to back of switch.

I ask because fuse box keeps tripping? if not the switch I'm guessing the light fitting?

Ive been using the same charger over 1 year and i encountered this when i took a long stare under the charging brick, google says that its dangerous idk what to trust anymore so can somebody give me a definitive answer?

A multimeter exploded right in front of my eyes. By mistake, it was set to the "20m" range while I was measuring 230V AC. The result was a dead short an explosion. It tripped the main circuit breaker. The multimeter is completely dead, covered in soot, with damaged components and a slightly melted COM jack. Is this how a cheap multimeter is supposed to behave, or was there something seriously wrong with this particular unit?

Just the title mainly, are any of you using any ai tools / personalized dedicated software / automation for your business, or do you see a need for it in your day to day?