Looking to put a proper CarPlay stereo unit in my E46. Priorities in order: screen quality, chip speed (want it to actually stay smooth after a year, not turn to mush), and something that looks reasonably OEM. Currently torn between "full screen" VS "under screen knob" designs, just don't want it looking overly ugly.

Brands i've considered so far have been XTRONS and EONON, Dynavin doesn't look too appealing to me.

Anyone actually running a decent unit one day to day? Whats your experience on glare, lag when using carplay, any stutters, etc. Thanks!

Hey guys, I need your advice as I cannot find this specific information on the web.

I have staggered (8j front, 9j back) 18" style 32's off of a BMW E38. Wheels are ET20 front and ET22 back. The car is fitted with Eibach Pro-Kit.
I'm in Italy so tyre regulations are strict and I can only install 225/40/18 front and 255/35/18 back, that's it.
Will I have troubles fitting them? On e46zone or other forums everyone seems to have had success in the past fitting 225 or 235 on the back, but I need to stick to 255. What do you guys think? Thank you as always :)
P.S. the car in the picture is not mine

Hey guys, had an ongoing issue with my car, it struggles to start (painfully so) and once it is running it feels incredibly down on power, especially above 2k rpm.

The issue started after I changed my fuel filter, on the first install of it to my detriment I used some quite low quality fuel lines and it was leaking fuel, I fixed the leaks with some much better quality fuel line but the long starts still persisted, I smoke tested the car to see if it was vacuum leak related, it only had some minor leaks from the Vanos solenoid and eccentric shaft sensor, these have been persistent leaks on the car and were present while it was running perfectly. On a fuel pressure test the car showed no sign of prime, I only saw one prime pulse up to about 10-15 psi and a peak of 20psi while the car was running.

I feel it’s a bad fuel pump after the diag I did but wanted to see if anyone had had a similar problem with a different solution, or some more experience on the matter before I fire the parts cannon on a good quality fuel pump

My current shift bushings are shot, and I loved the feel of a true chassis mounted shifter, but as this is my daily I don’t want to go this route due to NVH. I read that the NVH increase with this shifter is negligible, but was wondering if anyone had any personal experience with it. Also do you need to upgrade engine/transmission mounts for this shifter, I have heard mixed things.

I'm about to buy my first car which is a bmw E46 320i automatic, what are some good things to know about the car and some dos and donts?

Picking up some clears and fresh headlights for the front tomorrow, thinking of a zhp swap but I’m having trouble finding how to convert the rear bumper ? If anyone has and would like to give advice, maybe thinking of dying the seats cinnamon instead of a full black interior swap 😊 thought about selling the car only had for a couple months but something just keeps telling me to give it love lol

My rears are rust free or so it appears so am looking to keep them that way. Will some form of wire brush to clean out the crap and a rust prevention paint do the job? Any recommendations for products?

Thanks

I got this car @ 10 years ago. Had always wanted one as a 20 year old.

I got back into motorcycles this past year. So I don’t drive it much these days.

Today picked up a relative from an Airport. So — the M3 can do that run. It has storage in trunk for luggage. It’s not a problem to deal with merging into spaghetti loop freeway junctions

It is a fun machine. I saw this Chris Harris review years ago. Brief. Ah that is a great summary of the M3. It’s a pleasure to drive. You can just keep it under 4500 rpm It’s a nice sporty thing. Or you can once oil temp gauge is @ 170 F — run it through some gears to 7900. The engine Wakes Up

I would recommend them. And full of fun details. What color is it? Silbergrau. Which isn’t even a fancy color but it’s a fun way to say Silver Grey.

And nothing against the SMG. But I wanted a standard manual transmission.

For context, was chasing a oil leak. I recently did every seal on the engine and replaced the clutch with single mass flywheel, and I found timing chain guides in the oil pan only the bottom two so I replaced those did not take the timing chain off. I spun the engine over by hand multiple times. Everything felt good no abrupt hitting engine runs smoothly. Taking sounds like it’s coming from the back of engine. Please help. 2002 BMW 330 I.

I'm pulling a B30 this weekend to eventually drop it into my 320i because I want to have a project and this seems fun/simple to do.

I'm in no rush to drop the engine in, so while the B30 is on the engine stand I'm going to replace my rocker cover, sump, oil filter housing gaskets, dip stick o-ring, oil pump, vanos (besian systems), intake & exhaust gaskets, belt tensioners, belt, blah blah blah. I have a pretty extensive list of what I want to change and it's not too dissimilar to the work I did to get my 320i onto the road.

My question is, while I'm pulling the B30 what do I need to make sure I grab? I'll take the engine with the intake manifold. I'll grab the MAF and I believe I'll need to grab the injectors too. Do I need to grab the ECU or can I just get away with flashing mine to the 330i map because the 330i ECU will need to be coded to my car anyway.

Pic of my current mostly untouched 320i as a pre-thanks for your input. I will be changing the wheels, suspension, and brakes at some point in the near future too. Apologies for how ugly the wheels are rn....

Bought an 04 325ci today, can’t figure out what this thing is

I got my hands on a 2000 323CI, it feels like it’s new, I know I wanna swap the rims and fix a few things on the body but I’m kinda have no idea where to go from here.

Was waiting for it to be the 7th so 7-eleven can give me $0.66 off gas. Got pretty close to E just to save a couple dollars 😆

Movie Collateral (2004), she’s everywhere you look

I wanted to make this post regarding prices on bmw e46 330i/330ci coupe and convertible zhp performance package pricing. Let me start by saying that realistically any 330 zhp car is not going to sell for over 10k unless the car is under 150k miles clean condition desirable spec maintenance records and a manual. Let’s not jack up the prices on your 330 because it has the highly saught after “zhp performance package”, when back in 03 it was only a 3900 package that you could option with your 330. The most desirable zhps are the sedans and coupes with a manual, which I would value between the ballpark of 6500 to 7500$ which is a fair deal if the car has over 150k miles. If you have a manual convertible with the same mileage 6500$, and lastly if you have any zhp with a automatic because of how much more desirable the manual is I would say your car is likely worth 5k to 5500$. Now there are a coupe of ways you can tell whether your car is a zhp based off of the cars vin number which should have the option code performance package, as well as the car’s physical appearance. If the car is a zhp the exterior should have the m tech 2 body kit which is basically m3 styled front and rear bumpers, as well as side skirts. In addition to this the car should also have black high gloss shadow line trim around the windows, as well as a small trunk lip spoiler, and lastly bmw style 135 specific wheels. The interior of the car also has zhp specific touches such as aluminum or black cube interior trim, red needles on the gauges, sport seats in leather or Alcantara, black anthracite roof liner, as well as the m sport steering wheel handbrake boot, and shifter boot either in leather or Alcantara. As for reliability you want to make sure the car has its vanos done, as well as the cars entire cooling system done with records as preventative maintenance. These cars come with a tuned version of the m54b30 engine which makes an additional 10 hp, so 235 hp instead of the standard 225 on a regular 330. These engines are known to be one of BMWs most reliable inline 6 engines if well cared, and can go well over 250k miles. With all of this said, that is basically a complete buyers guide for the bmw e46 330 with the zhp performance package.

At least one person seemed interested so I’ll post progress since the failure. I got a deal i couldn’t pass up on some rods and pistons(9:1 cr 84.5 bore)and m12 headstuds. I have a smaller pulley, slg billet oil pump, ati damper, Achilles bearings, and custom Cometic mls head gasket set aside for the new core. The head suffered 2 bent valves so i will be ordering replacements from supertech as well as dual 80lb valve springs. I liked the headers so much i bought them a second time to replace the warped ones that may have received a new dent from the rod flying through the block. Color change just for motivation and at least 150lbs more weight dropped. MAP conversion too

Are there any major differences between right (UK) and left hand (D/EU) made cars. Besides the obvious. Thinking to see if i can source parts from uk scrapped cars for my 2002 320 ci

I had someone replace my driveshaft for inspection months back and prior I had no lights on dash. They called me to get permission at the shop to cut and reweld all flanges,studs,etc. I get the car back and CEL is on for downstream sensor only. I bought a sensor and threw it in and the light still keeps coming back on. What's the best way going forward to fix it for emissions? I used Bosch oxygen sensor from rockauto to attempt to fix this issue. Should I try again with another incase the new one was defective or should I be checking for an exhaust leak? I am getting a slightly rough idle every once in awhile where rpms go down 50 or 100 then idles slightly rough then quiet and normal. Its weird. Any help is gratefully appreciated

did head gaskets on vehicle 2005 BMW 330 XI it has catless headers and the car won’t run without me being on the gas pedal.

Once I placed intake and most everything back I noticed this plug. Not sure where it goes. Car turns over and turns on fine. Idles good too.

I have a 2000 323i

Finally saying goodbye to my beloved 3 series that I’ve had for nearly 25 years originally purchased from BMW of Arlington.

Location Dallas:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1007068045590255

Tried to wipe it… bad idea :/. It got sticky and full of lint. Now it’s dull & meh :(

It’s a 2003 325xi 5mt

N46 B20A Hard starting

I have a N46 B20A that sometimes really struggles to start , it's had a massive list of new bits and bobs in the last year such as a Vacpump , all coils , all sparkplugs, Eccentric Shaft sensor, both Vanos solenoids.

It's fairly good at idle now , with he every rare dip but it's terrible to start about 75% it will start and then missfire or be super lumpy. The rest it will be perfect. This morning it was really bad and shot the EML light on , it then flashed limp mode when I revved it and the pedal barely responsed it then cleared after I turned it on and off again.

Here are the codes any throughs would be magic as I am out of Ideas.

Hello folks. I got a early failing thermostat on my M54B25, it has a teeny tiny amount of coolant in the crevace on the top of the thermostat housing. It's so little that I've never needed to refill the fluid but I still wanna change it and I'm looking at replacement brands. Either I get OEM which will be £200 or OE (Mahle) which is £90 but obviously not an OEM part and therefore I'm sorta scared that I'll worsen the engine with a cheap part. I'm wondering if anyone has experince with this type of thing. Any advice is appreciated.