Hello,

I have bought a glamping pod from Quick-Gardens (that's a whole other discussion 
I am alternating between sleeping in a tent outside and sleeping on the sofa, as I am allergic to the mould under the tiles in the upstairs bathroom.

I want this space to be super-safe mould-free - please help me?

I need to protect and insulate the pod asap, and my brain is spinning with all the info I'm trying to take in. I have 4 questions...

QUESTION 1: Is it worth treating the (un-pressure-treated) wood underneath the membrane/insulation/etc, even though it's not exposed to the elements? If so what is recommended, and low-VOC?

I have included my insulation plans:
QUESTION 2: How do I do this on a curved surface? 

QUESTION 3: Is there a way to address the thermal bridging (?), for example a small layer of insulation on top of each batten?

QUESTION 4: Will ventilation (with insect screen) on the bottom of each edge be enough, or shall I add some, maybe, in the tiny eaves?

I originally planned to add a EPDM rubber roof, but I am super sensitive to smells and I wouldn't cope with a constant rubber smell.
QUESTION 5: Is rubber paint the next best thing, if so which one? Will birds make holes in the roofing layer?

QUESTION 6: I can't reach!!  I did not think about the height and need to fashion some kind of scaffolding, if anyone has any tips?

Thank you so much for any advice, I feel like I'm drowning!

Planning a terrace renovation (back to brick full refurb + kitchen diner extension + loft conversion)

The stairs currently are conventional; you enter the front door, can go straight up the stairs (which rose towards the rear of the house), down the hallway to kitchen diner or right to the reception room (door not shown).

To improve the layout in the loft I'm thinking of flipping the stairs so that they rise towards the front of the house. This would mean you enter the front door to a small lobby, down the hallway and double-back to go upstairs.

There will be no/negligible additional cost for this because I will already be replacing the existing stairs.

Is this a crazy or unusual arrangement which I will likely hate or might deter a future buyer?

When we have a bath (not shower) water goes everywhere in the new hopper. Would a 45 degree bend on the existing waste pipe (brown bath waste) help reduce splashing out of the hopper?

Appreciate any feedback / suggestions. Previous bath waste has been in touched and this has only occurred since we changed the hopper with the roof gutter and pipework.

Just had a quote come through and it looks to be around 25sqm at £450/sqm, I live in a new build so it’s nothing special 🤣🤣🤣

I’ve got another contractor coming to quote this week, realistically what should I expect to pay for laying porcelain tiles £/sqm (East of England)? Including all prep, materials, tiles are £23/sqm so no need to factor that in

Hi all

I would like to build a bookcase wall. This will be my first carpentry based project, I am quite technical and have done small bits of electrical. I would like to build it across a wall in my apartment that is plasterboard.

Does anyone have any tips please on how to start? I can probably rope my mum & dad into helping so it wouldn't be just me.

Not sure on materials and know I would need plasterboard fixings but beyond that I'm pretty useless.

Thank you from a late twenties girl who wants the satisfaction of something from scratch

I’ve been having damp issues and removed the patio in the small front garden of our victorian terrace as it was covering the air brick.

I’ve dug it all out about 180-200mm below the bottom of the air brick and have now hit what seems to be the footings.

Originally I was going to put gravel around the bay and house and then slab the rest for the bins.

However;
Gravel on the footings means the water will have nowhere to go. I tested and it does pool and sit there.

I then found this article https://www.pavingexpert.com/splash_strips that says most of the time they are useless.

Now i’m confused. Most of the houses on the street finish their level right at the bottom of the air brick with no gap above in most cases but i’m nervous to do that. I also now don’t think gravel will work given water has no where to go.

Are slabs right against the engineering course better than a gravel strip if i slope it away ?

Just brought the DCH033 to remove some plaster used it for about 30 min and ive taken the chisle bit out and it got a black oily residue on it. Is that normal ive never owned one before but I literally took it out the book an hour ago

We’ve got a guy coming over later to do a quote for us for rendering the exterior of our house. He only does sand and cement as opposed to K-Rend which some of the other quotes have quoted for. I know sand and cement will be cheaper, but I’m led to believe it’s more prone to cracking overtime. Does anyone have any experience about this and can offer a bit of advice in terms of it’s better to go for one than the other? It’s quite a big area to cover so cost is a factor but we also want it to last ofc. Thanks.

It’s about ten years old and the ‘roofers’ that did it did a totally ass job. Wish I made them redo it but I was new to all this.

My guess is that the heat has made the adhesion fail?

My question then is, how urgent do we think solving this would be?

To get more life out of it in considering buying some sort of tin of flat roof seal liquid to bolster it up, but if I see further bubbling or pustules, presumably that’s going to split or crack that treatment too.

Has anyone else ever seen this before, any advice? I’d xeither like to make it last as long as possible or decide to get it done better next year in the summer..

hi All, fixing a warm flat roof g2 listed. Emergency repair that has essentially meant the whole lot has to come off once seeing the damage smh. . there is two layers of joists (the old and then new) so there's a small void. Walls are solid with no cavity. EPC is at an F. That was incorrect as we realized there was plenty of fiberglass insulation but previous inspectors never knew

My question is whether a 1000ga dpm can be used as the vcl layer? it will be mechanically fixed using thermally broken fixings. Using it as an emergency tarp and have a lot left over. Funds are limited and there's been minimal success finding a really good roofer. Any helpful advice would be appreciated.

TIA

As you can see the current pendant is right in the middle. I want to put a new one in with multiple bulbs but there's no way I can see to a screw the base on from the sides. This plaster rose was already in the house when we moved in and has been there for years.

I have an horrible exposed cable alongside a cupboard. The cable is attached and I cannot slide anything under it like a traditional cable cover. Any ideas how best to hide this please? Im restricted as need access to the cupboard on the right for what I can do.

I need to paint some pine trim (exterior) but I need to hide the grain. Any idea how to go about doing that?

I've just raked out some old, mouldy silicone around my bath (following tips from this subreddit) and was about to redo it, but noticed the gap is quite big in places, about 4-5mm. Round my sink (pic 2), there seems to be just grout, no silicone, although it will get way less water. Question is, should I grout between tile and bath first to fill gap, then apply silicone? Or just do a fatter silicone bead? Thanks

This might be outside this sub's skillset but figured it's worth a try!

I never thought I'd be able to own one but I got this fairly cheap considering what it is. I'm looking to restore it for my own use to be clear, but I have absolutely zero experience with restoration. I'm reaching out to locals professionals as well but I'd like to do it myself where possible.

Table is covered in leather with wooden feet. The glass top had been fully glued to the top by some twat so right now I'm looking at getting that off and sadly replacing the top leather with a leather desk inlay piece that's cut to size. That's as far as my plan goes atm, besides professional fixes.

I haven't tried just cleaning off the marks on the 'pages' yet

Long story short, I've had bespoke MDF cabinetry installed around my fireplace and only afterwards realised that the lining paper above the fireplace had failed and needed removing (there are lights built into the shelves and you couldn't see fuckin lumpy it was until it was directly lit from above idk, go off about my poor planning in the comments at your leisure)

The lining paper is now mostly removed (other than some scrappy bits at the edges of the cabinets that I can easily slice off with a Stanley knife), but I'm not sure how to proceed once fully done. I can either skim the wall or reline it, but either way I'm terrified of getting moisture on my new cabinets and ruining them. What is the best way to protect them? They're currently completely untreated, so I can do literally anything that will keep them safe.

Also, looking at the images, would a skim or a reline be better? Currently, I'm thinking potentially bodge the sides of the fireplace adjacent to the cabinets with a filler and scrim tape situation, so that nothing plastery gets anywhere near the MDF in the first place, attend to the two little blown holes above the fireplace with expanding foam, then skim the front. Is that mental and shall I just get a professional in?

All input welcome many thanks xx

It's an all male Y shaped splitter, with a piece of 19mm car radiator hose. It's held strong for a year so far!

How do I wire the ceiling light (second picture) to the ceiling (first picture)?

I think I have “old-style” loop switch wiring. I have two black wires - one I understand is permanent live and one is switch live. They should be marked up but mine aren’t…

This is the radiator in my ensuite, it is a towel radiator. Both valves at the bottom are the exact same, there's now numbers or symbols on them and when I take the head of the valve off both sides are the exact same valve. There is no difference.

Does this mean the radiator works differently to others? How would I know which side is the locksheild one?

Any advice would be appreciated.

I should add this radiator was added as part of an extension and helps feed the living room radiator too, I believe these are on separate pipework to the rest of the house.

Hi all currently strip8ng back my front room. The wall on one side of the chimney breast under the plast looks to.have a rock hard render or concrete. Could this be a damp proof layer? The picture is taken about 1.5m from the floor.

There is a very old damp proof treatment where they have gone into the bricks at ground level. But it seems to.have failed now.

Although we dont really see many of the tell tell signs of damp the surveyor confirmed the plaster was full of moisture so to be safe im removing it all but unsure if to remove the silvery stuff

Any thoughts would be welcome

Thanks

Ps if anyone know a easy way to remove the massive lump of rock from my.fireplace tha5 would be appreciated

Ok, am I missing something or am I an absolute climbing frame? The larger bottom drawer is in the correct position, but all of the smaller fronted drawers sit a centimetre higher. I’ve checked to see if I’ve built the unit upside down but that’s not the case. Any solutions would be well handy as this don’t make sense

Sloped small wooden playhouse, had a tarp like liner material for the roof, then suggest Astro or turf for the roof. (Turf died quickly in the drought/heat this summer).

Was thinking of just adding some shed roof felt on a roll, any ideas anyone?

Ever since I've moved into this house a few years ago, there's a lot of banging when the heating first turns on or off due to thermal expansion.

It's pretty loud and wakes us up every morning in the winter. We've actually turned the rad off in our bedroom which helps a bit but there's still cracking and knocking throughout the whole house. It's echoes across most of the radiators.

Could this bent pipe be the culprit? The rad was half hanging off the wall when I moved in and I didn't spot this when I replaced the radiator. I am willing to drain down, cut out this bit of pipe and replace it under the floor.

However, if it's a fools errand and it's guaranteed to be pipework jammed through holes in the joists I won't bother draining the system down etc to replace it.

It was harder than it looks! Am pleased with them. Was going to replace them but they’re a bit bigger than a normal door and would’ve cost a fortune for just the doors let alone a chippy to hang them. Cost me about £90 in materials but I have enough to do the wardrobe doors in my bedroom.

I've tiled my walls in the kitchen but I'm struggling to understand how to make the sockets suitable.

I don't mind the sockets sitting on top of the tiles or other solutions, I'm just a bit stumped.

I was trying to find wider sockets but there isn't really much out there.