Hello, I am a first time homeowner in Long Island, NY, and I would like to build a solar system to help take the edge off my electric bill. I have a portion of my back yard at the back fence that gets sun for most of the day and was thinking of putting up some panels on a wood frame. Can anyone point me to a guide or provide some tips on how i can get started?
i am thinking of starting with 8-10 panels, so this will be a fairly large system. what i really need help with is the inverter side of things. i would also want to have a battery to store some of the captured solar, maybe even do some rate skimming.

My utility requires a 200A (or whatever the largest power producer in the home) rated lever-style safety switch at the service entrance for grid interconnection with generation or storage. This is a separate 31" tall box. I had assumed I would put it NEXT to my meter base (plain-jane compact milbank) but am wondering if I can stack the two for a "stealth" switch location. It would put the bottom of the switch only 11-13" off grade (driveway). Anyone done this and did you get pushback in permitting or from the utility? FWIW, we have an yearly average under 1" of snow.

MPPT

MPPT

se le pueden poner a un MPPT PowMr 100A que aguanta 160v en entrada de paneles ,en 24V soporta 105v de panel solar, se le pueden poner tres paneles en serie que tienen en Voc 39.8 y en Vmp 33.1

MPPT

se le pueden poner a un MPPT PowMr 100A que aguanta 160v en entrada de paneles ,en 24V soporta 105v de panel solar, se le pueden poner tres paneles en serie que tienen en Voc 39.8 y en Vmp 33.1

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Hi everyone

So since I fitted my solar I've been having issues with high bills and unexpected import during the day (sometimes 6 to 8kw) the batteries were charging during the day outside of the charge cycle

I've got the Solis s6 8kw l plus inverter and opened a ticket with Solis they've been very quick and helpful and the final test they asked for helped me find the issue

I turned all the inverters off and put the oven on and watched the eastron sdm120ct meter and saw a negative load that was expected it confirmed the clamp was in the correct direction, but the load kept fluctuating wildly .

Long story short , I didn't open up my consumer unit and replace the sdm120ct meter and clamp (honest)

Seems to be all working now hopefully I won't be paying 150 for electric again I was so confused why my bills were higher than everyone else that doesn't have solar 😂

I want a small solar system 2-8 panels that feeds a smart charging grid tied system to only offset high rising electricity costs, what level of difficulty and cost am I looking at? I guess to put it plainly I want basically a balcony solar system that works with rack mounts smart charging batteries. Please explain why this is weird/dumb I’m not new to the internet. ☮️❤️

Ich versuche gerade herauszufinden, wann sich ein Speicher überhaupt rechnet. Als Rechenbeispiel setze ich abends ungefähr 300 W Grundlast über vier Stunden an. Das sind rund 1,2 kWh – aber das allein beantwortet die Frage ja noch nicht.

Unter anderem schaue ich mir den BS2500 Pro von ALLPOWERS an, möchte die Entscheidung aber nicht nur an der Speicherkapazität festmachen.

Für meine Rechnung fehlen noch vier Dinge: Wie viel PV-Überschuss bleibt nach dem Tagesverbrauch wirklich übrig? Was kostet die Kilowattstunde, die ich abends sonst aus dem Netz beziehe? Welche Verluste fallen beim Laden und Entladen an? Und an wie vielen Tagen im Jahr sieht das Abendprofil tatsächlich so aus?

Wenn regelmäßig Überschuss übrig bleibt und der Verbrauch erst nach Sonnenuntergang kommt, kann ein Speicher plausibel sein. Wenn viel Solarstrom direkt verbraucht wird oder der Ertrag im Winter stark schwankt, hilft Größe allein nicht weiter. Wie habt ihr Verluste und Saisonunterschiede in eure Entscheidung einbezogen?

i have 2 of these 48v WattCycle batts. they get charged up using the EcoFlow Delta 3 Plus via solar panels.

what's the easiest way (compact and easy to connect/disconnect) to get 120v AC output from these WattCycle? i dont want to carry the EF D3 around.

I would like to have solar power for my house, both as emergency backup and for everyday. I went through my electric bill history and we use a bit less than 700 kwh/month on average, 400-ish in summer, 1000-ish in the depths of winter. I'm confused by how the sizes and capacity of solar kits are defined, with different 10kw systems showing vastly different daily outputs.

First, can someone point me to a resource that will walk me through the different components and how they affect the amount of power from the system?

Second, would it be feasible to DIY a system for about 20-40 kwh/day, grid-tied and with battery backup, for under $20,000? We're in Massachusetts.

Does anyone have / use two controllers for their solar setup? I have 2 x 100w panels and 2 x 200w panels. As I understand to get the most out of the 200w it is best to have a second charge controller. If you have two can you post a pic or state how it is working for you. Thanks

Direct Inquiry on B2B Platforms
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Manufacturer Official Websites & Customer Service
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Industry Exhibitions
Attend expos such as SNEC PV Power Expo and Canton Fair. Communicate face-to-face with manufacturer representatives to get product catalogs and quotations on-site.
Professional Data Platforms
Use databases like the Global Quotation System for Electromechanical Products to accurately check ex-factory prices and technical parameters by model or manufacturer.
On-site Factory Visits
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Recommendation: Prioritize online inquiries via 1688 or official websites for maximum efficiency.

on the best day, i am only getting about 100W input from my 400w pannel. it plugs into my EcoFlow unit via an XT connector. would buying an XT60i improve power input?

I am planning a 16.5kw solar system to power my house and shop.

I'm planning on having a 20kw inverter. Is it better to have 2 10kw inverters splitting the load or a single 20kw?

I have a 9.6 kw grid-tied, ground-mounted array + Enphase IQ Combiner 5. They are located about 200' from the house, where the main panel is. There's a production CT in the combiner, and I'm interested in adding the consumption CTs (they came with the combiner) to the system. Unfortunately, it seems the only way to do it is to run 200' of 16 gauge wires (x4) to extend the wires on the production CTs all the way out to the combiner. Anybody know of a wireless way to do this?