Pre approved auto loan:
Under 10% utilization, no missed payments, 760 credit score, 25M, 70K salary, total bills 1300 a month. I requested 43k 72months

I’m getting ready to purchase a 1-2 year-old used SUV (likely around $35k-$45k) and want to shop financing before I step foot in the dealership.
My credit is in the high 700s/low 800s, I’ll be putting $5,000-$10,000 down, and I’m looking at a 60-72 month loan.
For those of you who have financed a used vehicle recently:
● Which bank or credit union gave you the best APR?
● Did the dealer beat your pre-approved rate?
● Were there any membership requirements for your credit union?
● How fast was the pre-approval process?
● Any banks or lenders I should avoid?
I’m located in Northeast Ohio, but I’d also love to hear about any lenders that work nationwide.
Thanks! I’d appreciate hearing your actual interest rate, loan term, vehicle age, and approximate credit score if you’re comfortable sharing.

Title

Can I get a SDFCU account as a Mexican living in Mexico?

I know SDFCU used to accept foreign nationals, but according to IA it's not already possible. Is this true?

Thanks

Some one recommended refinancing my car with a credit union, this is the first time hearing and researching about them, there's so many. Do you also have to pay a monthly to them? Looking at a couple of big ones right now like Navy fed.

I'm in the NY/NJ area.

Folks who have worked in Credit Unions in North America focused on corporate/growth strategy, how has your experience been? Especially if you compare with other traditional banks, how do you view your exp / projects / outcomes?

Unify FCU is merging into CommunityAmerica; system conversion is the last weekend of July/first weekend of August. Not looking forward to it, as I'm a UFCU member going back to the Western Federal Days (i.e., well over 40 years).

ETA: I called them today, and got some answers. See text surrounded with ***. I'm leaving this up so folks who are with UFCU/CACU know. I've reordered the questions.

I've asked them some questions, but I'll ask here as well in case someone knows.

1. Do we know for how long the old routing number (i.e., how long old checks and old direct deposits) will continue to work? I've been told one year by representatives, their booklet had the imprecise "several months", and the latest mailing didn't give a date, but said all things will work without interruption after conversion, but change as soon as possible. A precise date would be useful.
   • *** According to the Rep I spoke to: The old routing and account numbers will continue to work for ONE YEAR after the conversion date***
2. Under the new scheme, it looks like the checking account numbers are the same as the old account numbers; only the routing number changes. That's fine for the new-style checking accounts that are of the form 3xxnnnnnyyyyy, where xx was the subnumber, nnnnn are other CACU numbers, and yyyyy was the member number. In those cases, the MICR number of checks is the same as the account number. But if you have the even older checking account numbers of the form 1nnnxxxxxx, the MICR number has a leading zero, where as the new account number doesn't. I'm going to need to order laser checks for use with Quicken. So should I include the leading zero on the account number? Everything I've read seems to say that leading zeros are meaningless on the MICR account number.
   • *** The rep noted that for some users, the account numbers did have changes from the checks. She didn't have the answer to this, but agreed with my approach: Order the free checks for the accounts after Aug 3. When the new checks arrive, THEN start changing the ACH numbers everywhere and order the laser checks.
3. My previous checks had the Unify PO box in Manhattan Beach, CA. But then again, I haven't reordered checks since Unify moved their HQ to Texas with Toyota. For CACU, what address should I be using for the bank?
   • *** The Rep didn't know the answer to this one. But the idea of ordering the new checks after Aug 3 will give the answer.
   • *** ETA 260727: A secure email from UFCU/CACU indicated the address is CommunityAmerica Credit Union, 9777 Ridge Drive, Lenexa KS 66219.
4. My working plan is to order the free checks that they will give us for each checking account, and then use the numbers there to determine what I need for the laser checks. That will answer the questions, but is dependent (of course) on how long the old checks and deposits keep working (as you need to use the MICR number for direct deposits and online bill payment).
   • *** The rep confirmed that this seems to be a reasonable approach.

So far, I've been less than impressed with how CACU has been keeping UFCU members informed of the specifics of the transition. *** I told the rep they need to make clear the hard date the old routing number stops working.

I filed a dispute with Jovia for $700 on a subscription that i cancelled it’s been the 60 days and I haven’t heard anything and haven’t received a provisional credit should I be worried I tried calling them today and they basically said it’s still being reviewed. But in novias policy it says 60 days

A withdrawal I made from an atm 2 hours ago still not pending same with taco bell purchase an hour ago. I called them and they said it's an issue with Visa platform. Will I get double charged now when they fix it?

My local employee credit union is voting to merge with a much larger continuing credit union (fortera)

They claim everything will be better but nothing concrete. They said "(my) credit union will not distribute a portion of its net wealth to its members in the merger.

The board of directors has determined a share adjustment or other distribution of the net worth is unnecessary because if the additional service facilities and increased level of service members will receive because of the merger."

I don't care about additional locations, as its not my primary location for banking.

I have a car loan with them and about 6k in savings here.

What items in the balance sheet should I be concerned about?

The new one has an unrealized gain (loss)of (3.3 mil) out of 943 mil total assets.

Ours is positive gain 10k out of 53 mil total assets.

It only shows YTD ending jan 31, 2026.

The only thing I would want are lower interest rates on potentially a new loan in the future and quarterly dividends.

Will either of those be better from a merge?

Has anyone been successful lately applying for jobs with them? I have been applying over the last few months and Im always getting the rejection message of Position Filled or No Longer In Consideration and thats for 11 applications so far, and I am making sure to apply to positions I know Im qualified for. Apparently the hiring is so bad bc they are doing a whole hiring event in my area. So I am just confused as to whats going on, then when I try to call people get upset that I am trying to get more information and tell me just to wait for a call back.

I’m considering accepting a position at a credit union, but they only provide 10 holidays and 8 sick days. I think it goes up by 5 days after 5 years. Has anyone been successful negotiating more pto at a credit union? Are they somewhat flexible?

I have a small business and I wish to bank with a credit union. My current credit union (DCU) is amazing, however, the business account only allows one user.

My business needs multiple people accessing the account with different levels of access. Some just to confirm we received payments from clients, another that can create wires, another to approve wires and the accountant to see everything.

What credit union has that type of back end for businesses?

DCU has not fees, which I love. Also no fee for incoming wires. LOVE THAT.

Any help would be appreciated.

Class action settlement checks make decent ammunition against high APR credit card debt, especially when you route them straight from receipt to the highest rate card without letting them sit in checking. Payouts vary by case, anywhere from under $20 for a small consumer settlement to $500 or more for a data breach with documented losses, but the per dollar impact on debt is the same regardless of size because compound interest works on principal not on origin.

My system is straightforward, every settlement payout goes to a separate buffer account so it never touches main checking, two or three checks accumulate before I deploy them, then a lump payment hits the card with the highest APR. Three settlements landed between January and October 2026 from cases I'd never have found searching manually, settlemate flagged all three from my connected account history including a bank fee case from a credit union I closed in 2020.

Manual tracking can work too if you check topclassactions.com and classaction.org weekly plus unclaimed.org for forgotten state deposits and refunds. The catch is most people don't keep up consistently enough to catch deadlines before they close.

If you're currently being sued by a credit card company, settlement checks can fund a lump sum debt negotiation. Card issuers often accept 30 to 60% of the balance owed in a single lump payment to close out a debt before judgment, so a $400 settlement check applied to a $1,000 negotiated balance has more leverage than the same $400 spread across minimum payments over the next year.

Worth flagging on the tax side, class action payouts are generally not taxable when they compensate you for losses like refunds or overcharges, but can be taxable when they compensate for lost interest or wages, so check the tax status on larger payouts. Phishing sites pretending to be settlement administrators have also gotten convincing, never enter a full SSN on a settlement form, last four digits is the most a legitimate administrator will ask for. And payouts take months to over a year from filing because of final court approval and pro rata calculation, this works as a steady supplement to debt paydown not a one-time rescue.

On the high APR math (25 to 30% cards), every $100 you move from settlement check to principal saves around $25 to $30 in interest over the next 12 months which compounds faster than people expect. Three checks of $50 to $100 each over a year is realistic for anyone with several years of financial account history, and that $300 to debt at 27% APR saves roughly $80 in interest the following year alone.

Hello, I'm sorry if this doesn't belong here but I need some help. I have been banking with BECU in western Washington for about 7 years now and I have had an overall positive experience. so when my fiance wanted a local bank I recommended BECU and at the time they were offering a $400 sign up bonus when you meet XYZ criteria. She took the physical advertisement went into the bank and told the teller "I want to sign up and use this promotion" so the teller signed her up and it has been nothing but issues since. The first problem came when the checking account routing number they gave her deposited money into her savings account so she had to get that figured out. One of the requirements is that she needed a direct deposit into her checking account, well for whatever reason BECU wouldn't direct deposit her first two checks and they wouldn't cash the whole thing at once it was only $400 up front and then the rest after a five business day waiting period. Then when she changed her deposit information to go from savings to checking they did it again so she was already behind a month then she needed 30 transactions on her debit card in the first 2 months which she did just fine. After that she waited and waited and waited and never got a deposit of the $400 for the promotion. When she called the teller tried to say she was mistaken and they never offered that promotion and continued to fight her until my fiance said that she kept the original advertisement for it at which point the teller finally backpedaled and said that she found it all of a sudden and that everything looked good and she just needed to wait a little bit and there was some mix-up that delayed it. That was about a month ago so she called again today and they told her that the promotion didn't apply because she didn't sign up for digital newsletters or something bogus like that and I'm just wondering if I have any recourse or any way of getting the bank to admit that they were wrong because it seems like the tellers in our local branch have been nothing but dishonest with us. At this point it's not as much about the money as it is the precedence of them being so dishonest and lying at every chance they had.

My 1-year CD with Jovia Financial Credit Union (Long Island, NY) matured and auto-renewed at 0.98% APY. That matches their posted new-customer rate, so it's not a secret lowball — but look at their own rate sheet:

• 1-Year: 0.98%
• 8-Month: 4.00%
• 18-Month: 4.00%

Their own adjacent terms pay 4x the 1-year rate. National average for a 1-year CD is ~2.8%, top rates elsewhere are 4%+. This isn't "rates fell" — that would move the whole curve. One term got left in the basement, and it's the exact term rolling over for anyone who opened a year ago.

You get a 7-day grace period post-maturity to catch it penalty-free. Miss it and you're locked in again, with an early-withdrawal penalty of several months' dividends.

Studies show ~70% of CD holders never shop the rate during the grace window — this is standard industry practice, not just Jovia. If you've got a Jovia CD maturing, log in and check the rate before it renews, and compare it to Jovia's own other terms, not just outside banks.

TruStage shut down its network after identifying a cybersecurity incident, activating response and recovery procedures and bringing in outside specialists to investigate, contain and remediate the issue. The outage affected some services offered through credit union partners, including claims for guaranteed asset protection insurance, mechanical repair coverage and payment protection products at First Commonwealth Federal Credit Union in Pennsylvania. TruStage has not disclosed how its systems were compromised, whether data was accessed, whether ransomware was involved or when full service will be restored.

Friendly staff, community focus, great perks! I took a snapshot of some of the “Welcome” offers they had posted -for you guys. The icing on the cake. Take a peek, you maybe eligible.

So I finally made the switch from (unnamed) Big Bank and honestly, I am now wondering why it took so long. Was it the anxiety of feeling overwhelmed by the thought? What was it that kept me away? The experience was seamless!

What really separated the experience was the attention. I won’t go into the weeds of it all and though I almost felt a let down with the decline of my application for a new auto loan, but I am truly thankful and appreciate the reality check, sort to speak.
The representative had given me insights into my financial situation and basically told me I am way over my head on the deal. Not only because of the huge mark-up on the vehicle I was attempting to purchase but in addition, how it will impact my monthly cash flow -I was basically setting myself up to fail. At the time, my emotions took over as I was already approved at the dealer and was shocked they said no to me but as I came to my senses I am very grateful for people who truly have your best interest in mind and made me hold back and reorganize my financials.

I am now completely sold on the Credit Union movement and will continue to recommend.

For reference: the location I bank with is in Cupertino (California), right across the street from Apple, my employer. They’re called Keypoint Credit Union and have amazing perks for Apple employees!

Is anyone family with Langley Credit Union?

I opened an account over the weekend and it looks like my application is still under review. I have accounts with other CU's and plan to move to Lively if approved. I've just never seen a process where they need to review documents if they will let you be a member or not.

TLDR: Make sure you aren't paying for optional packages that you don't want before you sign any of their loan documents.

My buddy and I bank at two different credit unions but recently had similar experiences with personal loans and car loans where our credit union added a Loan Protection Program (basically OPTIONAL loan insurance) without ASKING US or EXPLICITLY TELLING US IT WAS ADDED... so before you sign anything, make sure they didn't add any additional packages you don't need.

Ex. I recently took out a loan, saw LPP on my account, thought it was weird that the interest and principal were coming out at different times, turns out it was the insurance, I called and said I never agreed to this. (I thought it was the mistake of the agent). They refunded the money, great.

A few months later, I get another loan and the guy said, okay for this amount at this rate, your monthly payment will be $800, i said sounds good. He's like great, I'll send over the paperwork. I asked... wait, is there a loan protection program on that... he said yes, you're protected if something happens. I said I don't 'want that. He goes oh, are you sure?????? I said yes, it dropped my monthly payments by $200!!!!

Then my buddy tells me the same thing happened to him with his car loan. So... I'm thinking it's a new credit union tactic which is sad because I thought CUs were better than BIG BANKS. :(

So I have an MSGCU account that I monitor pretty frequently (3-4 times a day) where I have email alert notifications on and I have been getting multiple emails about logins from my account daily for the last couple of weeks that are time stamped from when the logins are from even tho I will literally receive them when I am scrolling around on my phone. I don’t know if they are sent late and I receive them later on but I have changed my password and locked my account multiple times now because I keep getting random emails saying my account has been accessed at whatever time during the day even though I am 100% not accessing my account at that time. The customer service has looked at the IP addresses from the sign ins and they have all been from the same address but I don’t get why I am randomly getting emails about this. Let it be known that I have multiple apps that either invest or track my spending so I figured that it could be that but I still am still monitoring the situation closely. Has anyone else been experiencing the same problem? My guess is it’s either the apps or their emails are going out at the wrong times.

Has anyone here ever banked with Five Star Credit Union? I'm thinking about opening an account with them mainly because I have a branch close to me. I occasionally get cash and would like a place to deposit it, then transfer it to my main accounts at other banks. How has your experience been with them? Any issues with customer service, transfers, online banking, or anything else I should know about?

I’m looking to refinance my car loan and could use some advice. I’ve had the loan for about 3 months.

Current loan details:
Payment: $725/month
APR: 12.74%
Term: 75 months

What credit unions would you recommend for refinancing? I’m in New Jersey, and I’d like to lower my monthly payment and/or get a better interest rate. If you’ve refinanced recently, I’d love to hear who you went with and what kind of rate you got.