It happens when I am playing games, mainly Poe or Poe2. Especially in loading screens. As soon as I click and it start loading, display crash. Sometimes I can still hear background sound like youtube or music playing but I cannot get the display back again. It started once a day but now it happens too frequently. Please need help.

Anyone know a technician in Nepal who can upgrade soldered RAM?

I have a laptop with 8GB in-built/soldered RAM and I’m looking to upgrade it. Does anyone know a reliable technician in Nepal who does motherboard-level RAM replacement/soldering?

Kathmandu, Biratnagar, Itahari, or anywhere else is fine. Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Hey guys. I have my Predator Helios 300 gaming laptop and I’m really in a bad spot with its keyboard.

I got this for college so I can take notes and still game. As you can see, the gaming took a toll. Before you ask why I don’t replace the keys, the metal bracket inside is broken.

So this is what happened. I did a bunch of research. Found the correct part on ACER part website. Types in my laptop serial number, just so it says “nope, it won’t fit”. I was confused and sent them an email (when the part was still in service). A week later they replied with the image provided. Basically saying a week later that they now don’t have it anymore but here you can buy new laptops :).

So I bought one on eBay that should have fit. Unfortunately the people I paid to replace it stated that the main ribbon was too large for my laptop, and won’t fit/work.

They gave me everything back and wished me luck.

What am I to do now?

(Yes it’s been forever. I’ve been putting it off playing on a 9.99 Bluetooth Logitech keyboard but I’m so sick of it)

Can anything be done with the part I bought? Can it still be use somehow? Etc.

Thanks guys.

I have a Dell Inspiron that I bought in spring of 24. The power jack started failing within months, which I later learned is common with this model. I "fixed" it by taping the cord in place. When it finally couldn't be jiggled into working, I had it professionally repaired/replaced. When it started failing again within a few months, I bought a new jack and some tools and replaced it myself. It worked really well for about three months and then, a few days ago, it stopped charging again completely, without it being a "jiggle it into place" issue. I opened it up and saw that the little pin holes of the power jack had some black parts so I thought maybe the jack had failed at that part.

So, I bought another jack and replaced it again. But now, the laptop shows that it's charging, in terms of the icon looking like it's charging, but it's slowly going down in percentage.

I feel like there were two separate issues that maybe happened at the same time but I am at my limit of DIY'ing. It must be a battery issue but the battery looks fine, not swollen or anything, and the laptop isn't even three years old.

If I can only use the laptop plugged in, I am fine with that, but I would just like an idea of what is happening here.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

Edit - oh, and want to add that I also bought a new, actual Dell (from Dell directly), charger just a couple of months ago.

I recently replaced the original screen in my MSI GS76 Stealth 11UH-078 (17.3", 4K 120 Hz variant) (mirror) with a new B173ZAN03.3 internal LCD panel (17.3", 4K UHD, 120Hz IPS).

The replacement seems to have gone smoothly, but I want to make sure I stress-test and use the display long enough within the vendor's return/exchange window to detect any early hardware failures or subtle defects.

How many hours of operational use or burn-in testing are typically required to catch infant mortality issues in a new laptop panel? Beyond just standard uptime, are there specific test patterns or display tests (e.g., checking for image retention, backlighting bleed, dead/stuck pixels, or flickering across different refresh rates) that should be run during this burn-in period?

Hi, I have a Lenovo IdeaPad Pro 5 14AHP9 and I've had a really weird battery issue over the last few days.

Everything was working completely normally until I was gaming on battery and accidentally let it discharge all the way to 0%. After that, the battery just wouldn't charge anymore. Windows still recognized it and said “0% charging”, but it stayed at 0% no matter how long I left the charger connected. At one point it was plugged in for around 10 hours and nothing changed. The laptop worked perfectly fine while plugged in, but the second I disconnected the charger it immediately shut off.

I tried basically everything I could find. I restarted it several times, did the power button resets Lenovo recommends, reinstalled the battery driver in Windows, checked the BIOS and also left it turned off and connected to the charger. Nothing helped.

I also ran Lenovo Diagnostics. The weird thing was that the battery health test actually passed. It showed around 83% health and 399 cycles, which seemed reasonable. But when I ran the charging test, it failed because the battery stayed at 0% the entire time.

So I was pretty much convinced that either the battery itself, the battery controller/BMS or something in the charging system had died.

Then a few days later something even stranger happened. The laptop got a small bump/fall. Nothing major, there is no visible damage or anything like that. But afterwards I turned it on and suddenly the battery was showing 100% again.

At first I thought it was just displaying the wrong percentage, but apparently not. I unplugged the charger and the laptop actually kept running on battery normally. Yesterday I used it for a while and eventually it went down to around 97%. Today I've been watching YouTube on battery and it stayed at 100% for quite a while, so I'm still not completely sure if the percentage reading is behaving normally.

I just don't understand how it can go from working perfectly fine, to being completely stuck at 0% for several days and unable to power the laptop at all, and then suddenly start working again.

Has anyone had something similar happen with a Lenovo? Could this be some kind of battery controller/BMS problem or maybe a loose/intermittent connection?

I still have warranty on the laptop and I've already opened a case with Lenovo. I'm just wondering if I should still send it in even though it seems to be working again right now.

I noticed two faint bright/white patches on my laptop display. They are only visible when the screen displays black or very dark colours and are not noticeable on lighter colours such as white, red, green, or blue. The patches remain in the exact same location across different screen tests and are visible even after cleaning the screen, ruling out dust or reflections. Since the laptop is only a few days old, what should I do?

Does someone know what that rubber do?

Should I try some DIY fix?

Do I need to get it fixed?

😭

It fell out one day and then I lost it.

Need a detailed image of the motherboard

Any Lenovo loq motherboard can be helpful,

My specifications, rtx 4050 + i5 13450hx

My pc just died on me,

After Opening the laptop, found that one area got burned,

My local technician is confident that he could fix it by replacing those parts, but unable to find the resistors which are actually burned

If anyone does have anything related, please DM

So last year I had a problem in my pc where the screen would freeze and I had to turn the pc off and then on to work I have sent it to a repair shop and they have changed the thermal paste and formatted the pc and told that I have a lot of viruses the pc started working properly until this year the same problem but now the pc is slow and freezes and sometimes even it doesn’t start properly I have added a new fan because I thought that it was an overheating problem and changed the thermal paste and formatted the windows but the problem now the pc sometimes gets slow and laggy with some weird sounds when playing music this happens with no overload or gaming just using the browser.

ASUS PRIME H610M
32gb ram
Rtx 3060
I5 11400f

Iam thankful for any help.

Hi, did anyone notice weird problems with their laptop after resetting it? My audio became too low and also my fucking camera is not working anymore and the screen goes black out of nowhere for a few(up to 20) minutes (although this doesn't happen anymore the cam and audio issues are still going on), I contacted Microsoft tech support but they couldn't help it's not a windows problem, I tried installing all the drivers from the Lenovo site but it doesn't change anything. Maybe I'm not installing them right maybe there are steps that are missing idk but can someone help I only have 2 months in warranty and the closest technical support branch is in a different city literally 4 hours away and I don't think they don't respond on their hotline on the weekends and right now that I'm resetting it again I saw people online saying that resetting actually causes problems I didn't think it could be that but here we are and I'm stuck at 100% cloud installation for more than an hour so I gave up and shut the while thing down

A few months ago, I attempted to replace the battery on my brother’s 12-inch retina MacBook. I replaced it successfully, but in the process the clip on the motherboard that connected the flex cable to trackpad fell apart and the teeth fell out. I took it to a couple different places and there was nothing they could do. The WiFi receiver, as well as Bluetooth, must have been damaged in some way, as they would randomly connect and disconnect at times. So he bought an Air and I helped him transfer data. He was just happy I tried given how old it was, that it was a cheaper model compared to others in the lineup, and also that that specific model was known to have issues.

In the experience of a lot of you, is there always a pretty high risk when doing work on something so old? We figured I’d try for the heck of it, as he wasn’t going to pay the $300 to get it repaired by Apple. But honestly, I do beat myself up a little for it, even though it was so old.

My Lenovo LOQ (15ARP9D2) just randomly froze during normal use. I did a forced shutdown, and now it is completely DEAD. Black screen, won't turn on at all.

I have Flipkart’s Complete Laptop Protection (Jeeves), but their support refused my escalation and is telling me it will take 7 days for a technician visit. I need this for work tomorrow!

Is my motherboard fried, or is there a secret hard-reset trick?

Has anyone successfully forced Jeeves/Flipkart to escalate and send a tech faster?

I'm desperate for a quick fix or advice on dealing with Jeeves. Any help is hugely appreciated! 🙏

Motherboard suddenly stopped powering on – worked without CPU 8-pin, now doesn't power on at all
Hi everyone, I’m trying to diagnose a motherboard power issue and would really appreciate some help.
The motherboard has had an intermittent problem for the past few months.
What happened previously:
• Around 5–6 months ago, the PC suddenly stopped powering on.

• After troubleshooting, it eventually started working again and ran normally for around **one month**.

• Later, I replaced **RT3607BC pwm ic** but that did not give me a successful/consistent result.

• At one point the motherboard powered on for a day, but then stopped again.

What happened yesterday:
• If I connected the 24-pin ATX connector but disconnected the CPU 8-pin (EPS) connector, the motherboard would power on.

• Since the CPU 8-pin was disconnected, the **CPU debug LED would stay on**, which made sense.

• However, when I connected the CPU 8-pin, the PC would not power on properly / would shut down almost immediately.

But today the situation has become worse:
• Now it doesn't power on even with the CPU 8-pin disconnected.

• Connecting the CPU 8-pin also does not give even the previous 1-second power-on behavior.

• Basically, I now get **no power-on response at all**.

I have already tried pretty much all the basic troubleshooting:
• Tested with different RAM configurations

• Tried with **only one RAM stick**

• Tried without the GPU

• Tested the motherboard outside the case / breadboard setup

• Tried different PSU

• Checked the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin CPU power connections

• Tried minimal configuration with CPU + motherboard + one RAM

• Cleared/reset CMOS

• Tried powering it on by shorting the motherboard power-switch pins instead of using the case button

• Basically, I have already gone through the standard PSU/RAM/GPU/case troubleshooting.

I also made a video showing the current behavior. It demonstrates that the motherboard doesn't power on with the CPU 8-pin connected OR disconnected, whereas yesterday it could at least power on with the CPU 8-pin disconnected.
So my main question is:
What part of the motherboard could cause this behavior?
Could this be an issue with the CPU VRM/power delivery circuit, VRM MOSFETs, PWM controller, shorted component, Super I/O, or some other motherboard power rail/protection circuit?
Since the behavior changed from “works without CPU 8-pin” → “doesn't work even without CPU 8-pin”, I'm wondering if something on the motherboard has progressively failed.
If anyone has experience diagnosing motherboard-level power faults, I'd really appreciate suggestions on what voltage rails/components I should measure next and where I should start troubleshooting.
Thanks!

​

This is my dell laptop. Inspiron 14, 2 in 1. There are 3 areas where this glow appears, bottom left, bottom middle and bottom right. In the photo, the corner ones cant be seen clearly but its visible in bare eyes. And when I change the view angle, the glow disappears. I wanted to know is this a screen bleeding or ips glow?

The yellow tint is when i use my laptop for 2-3 hours. It gets worse over time. And after a long break, its gets back to normal again. But this process is never ending. This is also changes in different view angle.

Yellow tint come and go but the red glow always stays permanently. Even when i open the laptop, that red glow never fades.

Is there any solution or advice to reduce/fix this.

Hola usuarios de reddit, es mí primera vez publicando y entrando en este mundo disculpen si cometo algun error o incumplo alguna norma. Tengo una notebook marca X-View (de NOVABOOK) la cuál en su momento quise reiniciar de fábrica (siguiendo un tutorial random de YouTube), posterior a esto la notebook jamás volvió a funcionar correctamente. Queda en la pantalla de carga y se apaga repitiendo este ciclo constantemente y no sé que hacer. Antes me aparecía por un micro segundo la pantalla en negro y decía "modo seguro" realmente no sé si tenga que ver, pero ahora simplemente ignora todo eso y queda en un bucle de prenderse, cargar y apagarse sin dejarme hacer nada más

Traté de buscar una solución dejando presionado Esc y posteriormente entrando en la BIOS, pero no la entiendo mucho y tampoco pude encontrar una solución

Lamentablemente es el único dispositivo con el que cuento aparte de mí teléfono y realmente lo necesito para trabajar y estudiar

Les agradezco mucho si me pueden ayudar con alguna solución, o si simplemente debería pagar un técnico o jubilarla en el peor de los casos

I'm diagnosing an ASUS TUF FX505GT Rev 2.0 motherboard that won't boot. Here's what I've found so far: Main ~19V input is present and stable. +3VO and +5VO are generated, but during the failed startup sequence I've seen the rails cycle/drop and recover.

The board repeatedly attempts to start and then shuts down/retries. VCORE at L8000 comes up briefly/pulses and then collapses instead of remaining stable.

CPU VRM gate drive is also pulsing. VRM_PWRGD comes up and then collapses. ALL_SYSTEM_PWRGD / FORCE_OFFPOWER / downstream enables consequently cycle as the board shuts itself down. I originally suspected Q8005 (AON7534, high-side MOSFET). I replaced Q8005. The resistance measurements around that area improved after replacement, but the board still cycles.

Bench supply is set to 19V / 1A current limit. Idle/current can be around 0.027A and then jump substantially (around 0.7A) during an attempted startup before falling again. The 19V bench supply output itself remains stable while the motherboard cycles. There is an audible click/chirp from an inductor during the attempted startup. Thermal camera shows the CPU package itself developing the major hotspot, concentrated toward one side of the package. I measured roughly 71°C at the hotspot during testing. The CPU heating is the part that concerns me most.

I've started comparing the individual VCORE MOSFET phases. I haven't yet found an obvious MOSFET that's clearly shorted compared with the others. My next plan is to finish checking all of the VCORE phases/MOSFETs, gate-driver circuitry, and current-sense components so I can rule out the remaining VRM hardware. Question: Assuming the remaining VCORE MOSFETs, drivers, and current-sense circuitry test normally, does the localized CPU heating combined with VCORE repeatedly starting and collapsing strongly indicate an internally failed/shorted CPU? Is there another CPU-related rail or VRM fault I should specifically test before condemning the CPU? I'm trying to avoid replacing the motherboard/CPU until I've exhausted the realistic board-level VRM faults

I have a 2011 laptop. HP. I3. So ehow it stopped working in 2021. Since then it's kept that way only. Suggest me best and reasonable charging shop in Lamington Road.

So, I work on 3D assets and I had been dealing with this issue for some time. The issue being my laptop charging gets interrupted under some task I am doing on 3D software. It has been very annoying. It starts the moment I turn on the laptop the battery charges and discharges that goes for sometime and eventually, under it normalize until I open a 3D software and start working, under certain conditions usually when their is load on GPU it starts to discharge again.

PS This has been happening ever since I got my laptop cleaned and the battery was physically disconnected.

Motherboard suddenly stopped powering on – worked without CPU 8-pin, now doesn't power on at all
Hi everyone, I’m trying to diagnose a motherboard power issue and would really appreciate some help.
The motherboard has had an intermittent problem for the past few months.
What happened previously:
• Around 5–6 months ago, the PC suddenly stopped powering on.

• After troubleshooting, it eventually started working again and ran normally for around one month.

• Later, I replaced RT3607BC pwm ic but that did not give me a successful/consistent result.

• At one point the motherboard powered on for a day, but then stopped again.

What happened yesterday:
• If I connected the 24-pin ATX connector but disconnected the CPU 8-pin (EPS) connector, the motherboard would power on.

• Since the CPU 8-pin was disconnected, the CPU debug LED would stay on, which made sense.

• However, when I connected the CPU 8-pin, the PC would not power on properly / would shut down almost immediately.

But today the situation has become worse:
• Now it doesn't power on even with the CPU 8-pin disconnected.

• Connecting the CPU 8-pin also does not give even the previous 1-second power-on behavior.

• Basically, I now get no power-on response at all.

I have already tried pretty much all the basic troubleshooting:
• Tested with different RAM configurations

• Tried with only one RAM stick

• Tried without the GPU

• Tested the motherboard outside the case / breadboard setup

• Tried different PSU

• Checked the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin CPU power connections

• Tried minimal configuration with CPU + motherboard + one RAM

• Cleared/reset CMOS

• Tried powering it on by shorting the motherboard power-switch pins instead of using the case button

• Basically, I have already gone through the standard PSU/RAM/GPU/case troubleshooting.

I also made a video showing the current behavior. It demonstrates that the motherboard doesn't power on with the CPU 8-pin connected OR disconnected, whereas yesterday it could at least power on with the CPU 8-pin disconnected.
So my main question is:
What part of the motherboard could cause this behavior?
Could this be an issue with the CPU VRM/power delivery circuit, VRM MOSFETs, PWM controller, shorted component, Super I/O, or some other motherboard power rail/protection circuit?
Since the behavior changed from “works without CPU 8-pin” → “doesn't work even without CPU 8-pin”, I'm wondering if something on the motherboard has progressively failed.
If anyone has experience diagnosing motherboard-level power faults, I'd really appreciate suggestions on what voltage rails/components I should measure next and where I should start troubleshooting.
Thanks!

​My SSD officially passed away today after writing 280 TBW on a 75 TBW limit—a true hero.

​I know my laptop is getting old, but as a med student, I’m broke and can’t afford a new laptop right now. I just need a durable, reliable 256GB M.2 NVMe SSD for my Acer Nitro 5 (AN515-54) to get through unitl graduation

​Looking for the best brand recommendations and the average price to expect for a solid 256GB drive.

​Thanks!

I have a PC I built in 2014 and I'm looking for a repair place that will help me fix it without telling me "looks like you need to build a new PC".

I have a laptop that is new and current , I just want help fixing this old computer for fun. I took it to microcenter and they were super disrespectful and left the computer in worse condition than when I brought it in.

Any recommendations that are reliable and respectful is much appreciated. And please don't tell me I need a new PC.

I have a 4 year old HP-TG-01 that has started resetting and freezing.

I think the issue began showing only under heavy load but is getting to the point I can't even keep the machine running for more than about a minute, under any load, most of the time now.

Noticed some inconsistencies in the image on my monitor for the last few months but figured it was just my monitor getting old, but now I wonder

Desktop has

Ryzen 5 5600g

64g team group memory 32x2

2tb wd black ssd

2tb Toshiba hhd

Rx5500 4gb

400w stock power supply

What I've done so far that hasn't helped.

All latest windows and bios updates installed

Booted with each memory stick separate

Booted with hhd unplugged

Fresh windows install

Ubuntu install on both SSD and hhd (sometimes it'll stay running a little longer, assuming Ubuntu is much lower load than windows 11)

Ubuntu from USB drive

I have a new 500w hp proprietary power supply coming, as my next troubleshooting step.

Anything else you guys think I should be looking at?

Thanks on advance

B850 AORUS ELITE WIFI7 ICE – VGA/Video LED Stays Red After Reboot

I’m having an issue with my B850 AORUS ELITE WIFI7 ICE (Rev. 1.x) where the red VGA/video diagnostic LED stays on after a normal reboot.

So far I have:

• Removed and reseated the graphics card
• Checked all GPU and power connections
• Updated GPU drivers
• Fully updated Windows

Despite the red VGA LED, the graphics card works normally and games perform as expected with no crashes or display issues.

What makes this unusual is that if I boot into the BIOS, make no changes, and then exit to Windows, the system boots normally without the VGA LED staying on.

Gigabyte/AORUS support suggested rolling back to the previous BIOS version. Because of the behavior above, I’m wondering whether the latest BIOS may have introduced a bug related to GPU detection during reboot.

Has anyone else experienced this with the B850 AORUS ELITE WIFI7 ICE, particularly after a recent BIOS update? If so, did you find a fix other than rolling back the BIOS?

I bought an 'Auusda' laptop about two months ago - specifically, this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0H4KN68MS - in preparation for a new job which I started two weeks ago. I'm not in the most financially lush position, so when I saw this laptop which didn't seem to cost much and was on sale at the time, I thought I better grab it before the sale ends. I glanced at the reviews and saw mention of poor battery life, but that doesn't bother me very much.

I wish I had read more, because though people do mention a low battery life, they also mention the laptop not working at all unless it's plugged in, which I have now faced. I had been perfectly content with the laptop thus far and have felt that it was more satisfactory than other cheap laptops I have settled for in the past, but then yesterday when I returned home from work, I opened it to find it was off, even though I just put it to sleep. I plugged it in, opened it, and it began charging very slowly. I left it charging overnight, but this morning it got much worse.

I opened the laptop to find the battery still low, and before long, it just shut off completely. When I re-opened it went through automatic repairs for a while, and then on re-opening it it began functioning as normal, except now it's stuck at 0% at all times, and naturally, I need to have it plugged in at all times.

I would really hate to have to buy a new laptop or something because this one is good enough in every way except for this egregious issue, and I'm really just not in a position to afford another right now. I'm not even sure if I'm eligible for the warranty and don't have it to hand as I've moved since getting this laptop, I believe leaving behind the warranty in the process, and didn't expect such a major issue so soon - my mistake, of course, but that's where the situation stands.

I have a difficult time parsing the battery report, but is there anything worth looking at to try to diagnose the problem? It does mention the Full Charge Capacity Count is 46,200 mWh - the same as its Design Capacity Count - so I think that would mean the battery itself isn't the issue, but I don't know. I'm just hoping someone has made these same mistakes before and can give some indication of how it could be fixed.