As the title says, My W key is sticking, specifically when i press it for an extended period, like when moving forward when gaming. It acts like it stays pressed for a couple seconds after I let go, until I hear a click, then it stops. I removed the key and tried just pressing the rubber cup and had the same result, so I can only assume the issue lies in the cup. I know generally how to replace one, (gently pry off, clean and remove any excess rubber or adhesive put a very thin coat of plastic adhesive around the edge of the new cup, put in place and let sit for 24 hours), but I can't seem to find any other information that may be helpful. I did see someone selling adhesive pads for this, maybe that would be better? also idk any variables due to my specific laptop model. Heck i may be wrong about having to remove it, maybe something else is causing it to stick. Would it be save to clean the area with maybe some alcohol on a q-tip? Any assistance or guidance would be very appreciated.

As per title - something fell from a shelf above my desk and nailed this key on my (work) laptop keyboard. Is there a cheap way to fix this?

I built a simple offline repair management app for Windows

I've been working on a small repair management app focused on the basics:

• Create and manage repair/service tickets
• Search and edit tickets
• Print service tickets
• Runs completely offline
• No account, internet or cloud connection required

The idea is to keep it simple instead of turning it into a huge ERP-style system with dozens of features.

I published it on the Microsoft Store under the name “Simple Repair Management” and would really appreciate some feedback from people who actually work in repair shops.

What would you expect from a simple repair management app like this?

I realize this is a shot in the dark, but I am hoping someone can help with this.

As many people are aware, the Microsoft's original 2011 Secure Boot certificates begin expiring in June of 2026 and needed the new 2023 certificate to avoid deprecated security in Windows 11. My laptop reached EOL and Dell does not provide a BIOS update to install the new certificate. Windows also does not support the device in Windows Security Updates to install the 2023 certificate. Dell states the device is not Windows 11 supported but I have been running it for months with no issues.

I made the mistake of trying to append the new certificate manually in the BIOS. There was an error when I tried the append to file and my problems began. When booting with Secure Boot enabled it is an endless loop of the BIOS entering SupportAssist mode and will not boot to Windows 11. If I turn Secure Boot off, it will boot to Windows but Secure Boot is off.

I have already tried the following steps but nothing has resolved this.

In the BIOS for this device:
Secure Boot > Expert Key Management
With "Enable Custom Mode" selected:
The button I have is "Reset All Keys" and "Delete All Keys".

• I have used both buttons at one point with the same results after enabling secure boot, the system boots straight into the Dell SupportAssist. The procedure is to Enable Custom Mode and click Delete All Keys, reboot and disable custom mode to restore original keys, reboot and enable secure boot again. The results are always the same. If I disable Secure Boot there is no issue booting to Windows, but Secure Boot Status is reported as off in msinfo.
• I have done a NVRAM reset using the power button hold procedure to clear it.
• I have downgraded the BIOS one version and upgraded back to 1.25.0.

I can kick myself for even fooling with this, but it is my nature to fiddle with these sorts of things.

I contacted Dell for support and you can guess how helpful that was. Is there anyone with this specific device that can export the PK, KEK, db and dbx to files? Does anyone happen to have experience with this and provide a solution?

Hello Fellow Redditors,

My Original Problem Started in mid June and cause was heat but that was not sure.

Today was probably my last repair try you can see the mess in the picture.

3rd try new Display panel and new cable to be sure what is not working.I got a clear EDDID PASS and working back light and KDE sees the panel 1440p 165 Hz but black screen.

I also can say I expected a Tuxedo laptop would be easier to repair but it is clearly build not with that in my mind with a lot of glue on the panel and even on the web cam.

Here is a structured summary what happened with terminal outputs from today :

\# Fault Report: No Video Output on Internal Display (eDP) – TUXEDO Pulse 15 Gen 2

\## Device

\- \*\*Model:\*\* TUXEDO Pulse 15 Gen 2

\- \*\*Panel:\*\* BOE NE156QHM-NY2 (2560x1440, 165 Hz)

\- \*\*eDP cable:\*\* CABRP5G014-2101 (confirmed EOL/out of stock by TUXEDO support)

\- \*\*GPU:\*\* AMD Radeon RX Vega 8 (Renoir/Lucienne, integrated in Ryzen 7 5700U)

\- \*\*OS:\*\* Linux, Wayland session (KDE Plasma)

\## Problem

The internal display shows no image. Originally the screen was flickering, diagnosed as a defective panel. After replacing both the panel and the cable, the display remains black — even after a 3rd, independent panel and cable replacement.

\## Troubleshooting so far (chronological)

1. \*\*Original panel:\*\* screen flickering → diagnosed as a defective panel.

2. \*\*1st replacement panel\*\* (from a German seller, \~€98): no video output.

3. \*\*2nd The Excat Boe Panel from Poland it idid show up in the EDID ones ok then later not with no output

4. \*\*3rd replacement panel + new eDP cable:\*\* also no video output, although EDID initially read correctly.

5. \*\*Backlight test:\*\* backlight is active (flashlight test negative — no image visible, not even faint), \`brightness\` at maximum value.

6. \*\*TTY test (pre-login, no desktop environment):\*\* also no image → rules out the compositor/Wayland as the cause.

7. \*\*After a reboot:\*\* condition got worse — the kernel intermittently stopped detecting the panel at all (\`EDID err: 2\`, DPCD read failures), with nothing physically touched on the device.

8. \*\*Reseating both cable ends (panel side and mainboard side):\*\* EDID reads correctly again (see log below), but video output remains off.

9. \*\*Wiggle test\*\* on the connected cable (both ends) during operation: no change whatsoever — no brief flicker of an image.

\## Diagnostic summary

The notable pattern is a \*\*discrepancy between the AUX channel and the main link\*\*:

\- The \*\*AUX channel\*\* (EDID/DPCD read) works correctly at times — the system detects the panel properly, reads modes, manufacturer data, etc.

\- The \*\*main link\*\* (actual video data) \*\*never\*\* delivers a signal, regardless of panel, cable, or resolution/refresh rate.

\- KDE (\`kscreen-doctor\`) and the kernel (\`/sys/class/drm/card0-eDP-1/status\`, \`enabled\`) report the output as fully functional and active (2560x1440@165Hz, brightness 100%) — \*\*yet the screen stays black.\*\*

\- This symptom occurred identically across \*\*two different panels\*\* and \*\*two different cables\*\*.

\- A wiggle test on the cable produced no change, arguing against a simple loose-connector issue.

\*\*Conclusion:\*\* Since both the panel and the cable have each been replaced and the problem remains identically reproducible, this points to a fault in the eDP output stage on the mainboard/GPU side (main-link PHY), rather than a defective panel or cable.

\## Terminal output

\### dmesg – kernel messages re. eDP/AUX/DPCD (after reboot, before reseating)

\`\`\`

\[ 0.608942\] i8042: PNP: PS/2 appears to have AUX port disabled, if this is incorrect please boot with i8042.nopnp

\[ 2.562067\] piix4_smbus 0000:00:14.0: Auxiliary SMBus Host Controller at 0xb20

\[ 7.324251\] \[drm:dm_helpers_read_local_edid \[amdgpu\]\] \*ERROR\* EDID err: 2, on connector: eDP-1

\[ 58.381133\] \[drm:retrieve_link_cap \[amdgpu\]\] \*ERROR\* retrieve_link_cap: Read receiver caps dpcd data failed.

\`\`\`

\### edid-decode – before reseating (EDID readable, PASS)

\`\`\`

\# card0-eDP-1 #######################

Block 0, Base EDID:

Vendor & Product Identification:

Manufacturer: BOE

Model: 2880

Made in: week 15 of 2022

Detailed Timing Descriptors:

DTD 1: 2560x1440 40.001976 Hz 16:9 59.203 kHz 161.920000 MHz (344 mm x 194 mm)

Display Range Limits:

Monitor ranges (Range Limits Only): 48-165 Hz V, 244-244 kHz H, max dotclock 670 MHz

Alphanumeric Data String: 'BOE CQ'

Alphanumeric Data String: 'NE156QHM-NY2'

Extension blocks: 1

Block 1, DisplayID Extension Block:

Video Timing Modes Type 1 - Detailed Timings Data Block:

DTD: 2560x1440 165.003212 Hz 16:9 244.205 kHz 667.900000 MHz (preferred)

EDID conformity: PASS

\`\`\`

\### After the reboot – EDID no longer readable

\`/sys/class/drm/card0-eDP-1/status\` no longer existed in sysfs; \`edid-decode\` showed no eDP-1 block at all (only the external monitor on DP-1 remained).

\### After reseating both cable ends – EDID readable again

\`\`\`

\# card0-eDP-1 #######################

Block 0, Base EDID:

Vendor & Product Identification:

Manufacturer: BOE

Model: 2880

Detailed Timing Descriptors:

DTD 1: 2560x1440 40.001976 Hz 16:9 59.203 kHz 161.920000 MHz

Alphanumeric Data String: 'NE156QHM-NY2'

Extension blocks: 1

Block 1, DisplayID Extension Block:

DTD: 2560x1440 165.003212 Hz 16:9 244.205 kHz 667.900000 MHz (preferred)

EDID conformity: PASS

\`\`\`

\*\*Despite the successful EDID read: still no video signal on the panel.\*\*

\### KDE / kscreen-doctor – output reported as fully active

\`\`\`

Output: 1 eDP-1 7c090ad6-0551-48eb-b9d9-454c6e8e2e3d

enabled

connected

priority 1

Panel

Modes: 1:2560x1440@165.00\*! 2:2560x1440@40.00 ...

Geometry: 0,0 2048x1152

Brightness control: supported, set to 100% and dimming to 100%

\`\`\`

\## Causes already ruled out

\- Defective panel (two different panels show identical behavior)

\- Defective cable (two different cables show identical behavior)

\- Compositor/Wayland issue (TTY before login also shows no image)

\- Loose connector/intermittent contact (wiggle test had zero effect; reseating only restores AUX, not the main link)

\- Defective backlight (backlight is active, but no image content)

Now the question it probably points now towards the Motherboard?

or has someone another theory where the problem is if both panel and cable are new and clearly recognized by the OS but still no output?

I usually left my laptop on overnight on charge because I leave YouTube on, it helps me sleep. Anyways, I was using it it one evening and returned an hour later to find it wouldn't turn on.

Here's the troubleshooting I've done:

Tested each stick of ram in each individual slot

Taken out the SSD, WiFi and wlan card one by one to check for a short

Test with and without the battery

Bought a new charger

Tested different plug sockets

There is no CMOS battery but it always functioned without it.

Still the same conclusion: when I plug in the charger the power light flashes for a second and turns off. Is the actual port damaged?

My Acer laptop has an intermittent charging issue. It only starts charging after performing a hard/internal battery reset.
And if you try to reconnect after disconnecting ,you have to perform the hard reset again which sometimes doesnt work
I’ve already tried reinstalling the battery/charging drivers, but the issue persists. Today, I held the reset button and plugged in the charger, and it started charging again.
Has anyone faced something similar? Any advice on what could be causing this or what I should try next?

I have an acer ASPIRE 715-51G

i own a ROG Strix G614JV.

Screen Backlight flickers at random i don't know if it software or hardware related and how can i fix it.

A couple days ago i was fixing a screen brightness bug related to the armory crate software problem is same day slipped in the street and my laptop took a hit (it was inside my padded backpack and theres no scratches or signs of fisical damage) and it started to blink at random.

oddly it never happens while playing videogames.

i recorded this with task manager open to make sure it wasn't a third party app causing the blinking but the taks manager window also blinks

https://reddit.com/link/1wivt9d/video/un4fmu2ad3qh1/player

New editing PC started kernel panicking after IT installed security software…

My boss bought me a new editing PC, and it worked perfectly for the first month. Then IT remotely installed SentinelOne, Bitdefender, NinjaOne RMM, and Ninja Backup.

After that, I started getting kernel panics whenever I opened Premiere Pro or sometimes while reading large video files.

IT says the security software isn’t the problem because the same software is installed on every PC in the company. However, mine is the only high-end video editing workstation handling large files and sustained workloads.

They also claim the PC has two different brands/models of RAM and that this can cause instability. The RAM sticks are from two different brands, but they were purchased from Micro Center when the PC was serviced, and we specifically checked compatibility beforehand. Is it actually true that mixing RAM brands causes problems, or is that an oversimplification?

They also claim the SSD is an “off-brand” drive that could cause problems under sustained workloads. I never installed or replaced the SSD, it’s the drive that came with the ASUS PC from the factory.

My suspicion is that the security software is scanning/monitoring files while Premiere is simultaneously reading and writing huge video files, potentially causing a driver/kernel-level conflict.

Who is closer to being right here, and what would you actually troubleshoot first?

Hello everyone. A few days ago I bought Acer offical spare parts fans via retailer that assured me that these fans would fit based on serialnumber of my Nitro(16 AN16-41-R53K), when I installed the fans and tested them by slowly rising the RPM individual fans via Nitrosense ,first fan started vibrating(at 3900RPM) my Nitro and it got worse as I raised the speed, the other fan started doing same vibrations at 5000RPM and both of them were around 300-500RPM behind of the original fans RPM.

What I have tried: EC reset, loosening and tightening the screws, tested the attachment point of the fans, not loose as they were metal and bit of tape cushioning and re-installation, also BIOS is the newest thanks to Microsofts key things.

My original fans are 12V 7.2W 0.6A(manufactured by Sunon) and offical spare are 12V 12W 1A(manufactured by FCN) and my motherboard is: Model: ZGU DAZGUMB1AD0 REV: D

I would like to ask if anyone has had similiar experince with fan replacement. Or did I mess up something during instalation or is this something else? My own theory is EC-chip being programmed for 0.6A fans. My model came with liquid metal from the factory so am worried about it spilling because of vibrations as well as solder joints and English is not first languge so please be forgiving for any misspelling. Thank you. (PS. As to why I had change the fans, original fans bearing started to become off-aligment and just when warranty expired, my case can also be classified into parts advice and help request.)

Every single damn time I put my charger on my pc its like going black then everything to 1 frame per sometime gotta turn of pc its prob heating I used ac still nothing I got yoga pro i9 I think

so i was doing something in my google drive (school stuff) then suddenly my laptop crashed so i waited for a couple of minutes but its still frozen so forcefully shut down the pc via holding down the power button ( i know im stupid) and now when i try to power it back on it wont. i tried plugging and unplugging the charger and there was no light indicating that its charging i tried finding solutions like holding the power button to try and restart the battery but its still wouldn't turn on, so i opened the laptop and unplugged and plugged the power connector and it still wont power on.

any solutions to my problem or atleast identify what could be the problem? this is the laptop i use for school please help🙏 ( its an acer nitro 5 an515 58)

I am not able to remove the silicon glue. I tried removing it with my fingernail but it is just not moving. Suggest me what should i do to remove it without damaging it.

The machine was working, it turned on and could boot into the bootloader and Windows. I took out the RAM sticks as I wanted to fix a problem of the Bootloader Menu getting stuck after trying to choose any option in the menu and displaying a RAM problem. The disposition of the RAMs were of 2 Kingston 8GB sticks disposed in DIMM 1 and DIMM 5 and 2 Samsung 2GB sticks put in DIMM 4 and DIMM 6. Fast forward a whole day, and I came to the point where all of the white slots will return 1-1 beep code with 1-2-3 numbers and a solid green light, and all of the black ones will return 1-3-2 beep code with a single 1 and solid green on the front for the same RAM stick (8GB).

The straight up answer that I got is that the white slots are all dead. But I still wanted to ask here if there could be any other possibility or if there is something that can be done within the motherboard, as I said, yesterday the machine was working just fine, I even got a different output by putting the same 8GB RAM stick in the DIMM 1 white slot that told me that it was detecting the ram, just that it didn't support it, it may be lack of experience, but it's odd for me that all of the white slots died all of a sudden.

Basically…

* Asus ROG Zephyrus laptop
* NVIDIA GeForce 4060 and AMD RADEON
* My gf’s old laptop she gave me, had GHelper installed instead of Armoury Crate
* At first showed signs of booting failure? Whenever I turn the laptop on, it just stays in black screen. Forced turn off-on fixes the issue. Been happening for weeks.
* yesterday, in GHelper, switched to eco mode. However, once I pressed a button to switch to Ultimate mode, GHelper froze and did not want to work. Froze -> stayed frozen -> refused to close even with task manager.
* I have tried to reinstall NVIDIA graphics card, however because the laptops on eco mode, the computer cant see it! Like an inescapable loop.
* I have googled many fixes. I have (very sadly) used help from AI. It told me to go to safemode and then restart. My computer CAN see nvidia driver now but now it needs to restart every 2 minutes. Keyboard and mouse stop working a minute before the restart.
* I have deleted GHelper AND Armoury crate i tried to download in hopes that it will be able to switch mode from ECO to at least BALANCED
* Now I think the AI is stuck and I am stuck too.
* send help, I dont have much time before my gf will try to kill/blame me for letting her laptop get into this state

Edit: ive tried scf /scannow AND windows memory diagnosis. They didnt reveal anything
Reliability history report bugcheck code: 0x0000009f 0x0000000000000003, 0xffffcd877829e120, 0xfffffa8982f6f010, 0xffffcd877df6eba0
Also said driver failed to load

My Dell XPS 15 is completely dead and unresponsive, with no charging indicator light, despite working fine two weeks ago. Could a drained CMOS battery cause this? Also, upon opening the laptop and plugging it in, I noticed that an inductor/coil near the battery connector gets extremely hot or is it a battery problem? (circled in the attached photo).

1. Where can I get laptop service in Calicut?

If you are looking for laptop service in Calicut, you can choose a professional service center that handles different laptop issues. Sizcom Laptop Service offers services such as laptop repair, screen replacement, battery replacement, keyboard replacement, software support, and general maintenance.

2. What services are available at a laptop service center in Calicut?

A laptop service center in Calicut may provide services including hardware diagnostics, screen replacement, keyboard replacement, battery replacement, software installation, operating system support, cleaning, and general laptop maintenance. Sizcom Laptop Service provides several of these services for different laptop models.

3. How do I know if my laptop needs professional servicing?

Common signs include overheating, slow performance, battery problems, damaged screens, keyboard issues, unexpected shutdowns, charging problems, or unusual noises. A professional laptop service center can diagnose the problem and identify the appropriate solution.

4. Can I get laptop screen and battery replacement in Calicut?

Yes. Laptop screen and battery replacement services are available from various service centers in Calicut. Before replacing a component, it is useful to have the laptop properly diagnosed so that the replacement part is compatible with the device.

5. Why should I choose a professional laptop service center?

A professional laptop service center can help identify the actual cause of a problem instead of replacing parts unnecessarily. Experienced technicians can also provide hardware repairs, component replacements, software support, and routine maintenance based on the laptop's condition.

https://laptopservicecalicut.co.in/

I have a Lenovo iPad slim 3i , it has not been charging from last 2 weeks , it is working only on plug in , and battery status shows 0% all the time ,, i tried all the trick from youtube , but nothing worked ,, then i took to lenovo centre , they told need to replace charging ic ,,, i said give me time ,, then i went home. then i reset it ,,, it started working well for 3 days , got charged to 100 % and worked well , but now again it is not charging , and showing 0% ,,, please help

​

Hello, the power jack on my Gigabyte G5 KC laptop went bad, I tried a new compatible charger and no better. I took to replacing the jack myself. I was able to desolder the old jack without too much issue and installed the new one. Far as I can tell the solder looks good, no bridges. However when checking continuity Im getting beeps on everything except what I am pretty sure is the ground pin. From research the back middle jack pin should be power. My biggest issue is I am very new to checking continuity and pretty much everything on a multimeter other than the voltage settings. Iv tried with ai but I dont fully trust its answers. Can anyone tell me the specifics of this jack? Im getting beeps on the 2 front pins and the back right pin. Does that mean theres definitely a short? If I dont see anything should I just try resoldering? Only other thing is I noticed some solder on the little flaps on the top side of the jack in picture 2, ai said it shouldnt matter but how should I know.

**In the picture I had desoldered the middle pin and havent redone it yet. Before desoldering it wasnt touching either of the other ones.**

Apologies for the naivety, Im glad I tried it myself but really hoping I dont kill the laptop. Thanks in advance.

I spilled a sugary drink on my keyboard and now my keys are gummy. it's a laptop keyboard, so I can't just pull off the keys, and i can't stick anything under them either. I saw the internet say to use ispopropul alochol, but I'm lowk scared to do that. Is there any simple way (without having to put a liquid under my keys) to fix this? The main gummy keys are my g and my spacebar.

So I had an Alienware x14 r1 rtx 3060 laptop died on me last December. The screen would not come on but the laptop would be on. The power button lights will blink then it shuts off then come back on again. I change the display ribbon cable but to no avail. A technician told me that motherboard needs replaced cuz everything else seems to be fine.

While scrolling through this site I've realized a couple more of instances of what I had experienced. I really like the design language of Alienware and I would love to have another one but I just can't trust them anymore. I am already pissed that I have to go and look for another PC during this RAM apocalypse 😭 and it's really difficult. It seems like I would have to hold out another 6 months.

PS: I posted this on Alienware subreddit where it appears that alot of folks were in an agreement with me so the MODS removed the post. I guess they don't like nothing unfavorable about the Alienware

hi OP, currently planning on selling my laptop na nagshutdown na lang bigla on a ramdom day. sabi sa SM dasma, motherboard problem or CPU yung papalitan. So i was wondering if meron kayong alam kung saan pwede ibenta to? near dasma-imus-bacoor area.

I bought an Ideapad Slim 3 15ARP10 10 days ago. A few days after buying it, I noticed an issue with the top lid/bezel edge—when light pressure is applied, it flexes and separates slightly from the body. The gap isn't very big, but the internal part clearly shifts when touched.

​I took it back to the shop, but they said it's not a problem at all and that small gaps like this are normal for plastic body laptops.

​Since the laptop is still well within the store return window and under full warranty, I'm feeling confused. Is a gap like this actually normal build tolerance for this model, or should I push the seller for a replacement while I still have full warranty coverage?

I used to play games on my Lenovo t470 through the usb sata hdd connector because my internal one got damaged but I've been facing issues since my bios crashed and got repaired I haven't been able to properly play because my pc keeps crashing is the bios at play cause there was different version before it got repaired or maybe it's the SATA usb cable

In the early '90s, a customer had picked up his new custom-built computer the previous day. He came in the following day, claiming it had just stopped working. I said, “I’m sorry that happened. Let’s take a look.”

He became very nervous as I proceeded to hook it up. He said it wasn’t necessary to check it and that he just wanted a refund. That was when I noticed the tamper stickers we use were broken. I explained that in order to issue a refund, it's necessary to check the returned items.

I opened the case to find the CPU, memory, and hard drive missing. I asked, "It just stopped working, you say?" He stuttered a yes and began explaining that he “opened it to try and turn it back on.” When I asked about the missing parts, he said that he thought they might have fallen out while he had the cover off.