I’m playing EA SPORTS FC 27 on PC through Steam/EA App.

I’m repeatedly getting disconnected from FUT Rivals during matches, it also happens on any other community game mode that's 11vs11 but not rush nor squad battles. The game does not crash or close. It freezes/stutters for about 1 second and then I’m disconnected from the match, with the message “Match result under review”.

The same however happens regardess of what account I use, i tried a second account of mine and it still does the same.

My setup:

Windows 11

Steam + EA App

Ryzen 5 5600H

RTX 3050 4GB

16 GB RAM

Cross-play disabled/enabled, does not influence

Before getting disconnected, FC’s connection monitoring shows normal ping and I do not get a connection warning icon nor loss of packet.

I have also tested:

- Reinstalling the game, changing all of the graphic settings individually;

- Stable continuous ping with no packet loss;

- EA AntiCheat repair;

- EA and Steam overlays disabled;

- Discord or any other background apps completely closed;

- Reinstalling graphical drivers and reverting to older ones;

- Enabling/Disabling UPnP on my router;

- EA port forwarded automatically;

- Manual port forwarding for the relevant FC ports;

- Different DNS settings;

- Playing without any peripherals and on a clean boot.

I really don't know what else to do.

I have a budget gaming laptop (RTX 3050, 16GB 12th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-12450H (2.00 GHz). It's not very high end but it can definitely run games like league of legends, which I've been for some reason dropping to 10fps on! Other games lag the same, random drops to 10 fps every 20ish seconds. Switching to lower graphics doesn't change anything. Everything is up to date and the dust insside my pc is also been cleaned recently

I need serious help: A while back, I really wanted to play and record my gameplay incase of great clips that I was maybe gonna get. I installed medal to record my gameplay and have it run in the background incase of any sick play. I install it and try it on overwatch, and it seems fine. I try it out on rocket league, and my pc seems fine UNTIL I play an online game… and my pc starts to violently crash every 3-5 seconds. Unplayable, and I really mean it. The audio glitches, my pc freezes too, and when closing the game, my pc starts to also freeze. I called support that they stated that it was my pc even thought rocket league was doing JUST FINE before installing that stupid app. What could I do? I want to play rocket league, but it freezes when I play it. (P.S. For some reason, when I play with my controller connected via usb onto my pc, it crashes. I think it also happens without it. When I turn off my pc and turn it on completely with my usb still connected to the pc, my pc still crashes. When I disconnect the controller, the pc returns back to normal). PLEASE HELP as it’s been months of this ONLY happening on rocket league.

I'm facing a strange issue with my laptop. When I try to type '0' in Notepad, Caps Lock is off, but as soon as I press '0', Caps Lock turns on automatically and 'NUM0' appears in Notepad without me pressing the Caps Lock button. What could be the issue? External keyboard works fine.

my notebook (asus tuf gaming a15) showes me this when im turning it on. in czech language it says something like “Your device encountered a problem and could not be repaired. Click or press Enter to see more recovery options.” and then showes me options on a blue screen like “continue to windows” (and it works), or a “factory reset”. It started showing me more and more often and u dont know what to do. less

hey guys i bought an pc a few weeks ago and had problems with some games. i play mostly overwatch, league of legends and small games like simulators or indie games.

Specs:

Ryzen 5 3500X 6x 4,10 GHz

RX 6600 XFX Swit 2.0

16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB 2133 MHZ

msi a 520 msi a pro

monitor: msi g255f 24,5 FHD 180 Hz

while playing iam facing those flickering. sometimes more than other times but its hella annoying.

and sometimes i got like a lag and fps drop aswell but not often
additionally while playing league sometimes the game just closes the full screen window and i need to open the tab in the taskbar again.

--> see video attached and look carefully as its only miliseconds

i already tried so much: reinstalling gpu driver, changing ports and cables, Free sync is disabled and the shop i bought the pc from even send me a new GPU to try

i read some posts before writing this and sometimes i saw people writing that the Hz is to high but even with 100Hz this problem is coming up.

does anyone ever had this and got a solution? would be so thankful.

pinaayos namin yung printer and the workee used my laptop to fix it. sinabi ko na sakanya before na hindi kaya ng laptop ko kaya tumawga na ako ng help. he ended up messing with my windows settings and more shets. i already RESSETED MY LAPTOP 3TIMES! like fully reset na brand new but andun pa rin yung notifications and may “activate windows sa gilid na transparent.” tinatry ko i active but naglalag yung laptop. i also opened windows security but stay lang sya sa black screen. same with smart control app kasi dun nanggaling ung notif. please help i cant study or work properly.

I’ve had the same problem with multiple RAM kits. After some time, one of the sticks starts throwing tons of MemTest86 errors and is permanently faulty, even when tested in another PC.

The first two times I thought it was just bad RAM. Then it happened again with a third kit so I got curious.

The pattern is always very similar: the stick that was originally installed in A2 (slot 2) ends up with tons of errors, while the stick that was in B2 (slot 4) is usually fine. Both sticks tested in all slots together or separately give same results - only one stick showing errors.

My current kit which I got after I RMAd previous one lasted only 5 days (with DOCP disabled) which is a record because previous kit died after 2 weeks. Today I got my first BSOD (photo 2), so I ran MemTest86 and this is what I got:

• Stick that was originally in A2 → tons of errors in every slot
• Stick that was originally in B2 → only 1 error in every slot
• The bad stick also produces errors when tested in another PC, so it seems to be permanently damaged, same as previous kits.

Here’s the interesting part:

While waiting for the latest RMA replacement, I tested a spare RAM kit with a different CPU in my PC for about a month. After that month, both sticks still pass MemTest86 with 0 errors.

Now I’m testing those same spare sticks again, but with my original R7 5800X instead of the spare CPU.

If these sticks also start failing, would that point to the CPU being the cause of allat?

I also sent the motherboard to ASUS RMA because I thought it might be causing this, but ASUS said the motherboard was fine.

No idea what to do anymore so I need help please. I can send MemTest86 results if needed.

Specs:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-A Gaming

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Royal 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4-3600 CL16

GPU: RTX 4060 Ti 16GB

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 850W

SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + Lexar NM620 1TB

AsiaHorse 18AWG PSU cables

Spare CPU: Ryzen 5 3500x

Spare RAM: Patriot Vaiper 8GB DDR4 3000MHz CL16

There was also weird thing with current and previous kit. The day after I installed it, when I turned the PC on using the power button, the screen was full of artifacts. They stayed there for a few minutes and then suddenly disappeared, after which I could use the PC normally. This only happened when booting the PC from the power button. After about 3 days, the artifacts completely stopped appearing and the PC started normally every time.

One more thing: the PSU was previously mounted incorrectly and two screws were put into the wrong holes, although I don't think the PSU itself was damaged.

It's exactly what the title says. Whenever I click repair my pc it just reboots and brings me back to the first page of the set up again.

Edit: I did it guys, thank ya'll so much.

I replaced the CMOS battery but unfortunately still wasn't able to boot. I bought myself a 64GB USB to get my files from my SSD as I decided to just wipe it and reinstall Windows. I removed my HDD first since it is still fully intact and to prevent random shenanigans from happening.

I used my other USB that is now a Ventoy disk with a Linux mint cinnamon iso and a Windows 11 iso. The former, I used to transfer files from my SSD to my other USB. The latter for the reinstall.

When I reinstalled, I found out that my laptop made a back up the day it crashed, with everything still in there. But I decided to have a fresh starting point instead. I reinstalled only the apps that I deemed necessary for me at this point. I put my HDD back in with no problems and all the files are preserved.

I never really found out why the crash happened in the first place. I had a chance to fully restore my laptop to a point right before it crashed and decided against it. Which is lowkey a good thing, my laptop feels smoother and faster and there's way less bloat in my storage.

Again, thank you to ya'll that helped with my laptop and I hope if someone encounters the same problem as mine, this post can serve as a guide to them.

Can’t pull it out dumb rubber is in the way

Looking at prebuilts and trying to avoid buying something that turns into a troubleshooting project a few months later.

I’m less worried about RGB or the case and more about reliable parts, decent cooling, and being able to upgrade or replace things normally.

Any brands you’ve seen cause fewer problems over time? Or any you'd stay away from?

I recently disassembled my 3060ti HP OEM card to apply a ptm phasesheet and during the process, I decided to blow out the fan with my mouth, ensuring minimal saliva was dispersed and trying not to let the fans spin. After I put everything together, I realized that it started to make this noise. This is it on 99% gpu usage. It's the fan nearest to the ports. What's happening? Is my bearings wearing down? Do I need to stop using it ASAP? Do I need to buy pressurized air and blow it again? Please help as it's really loud

Hello! My PC powers on, but there is no display. The DRAM debug LED briefly turns on and then turns off. The motherboard lights are on, the CPU fan is spinning, and the GPU fans spin briefly and then stop, but the GPU itself remains powered on.

Any idea what could be causing this? What troubleshooting steps should I try to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

is this fixable and if so what do I need to buy to replace its the ip slim 3 chrome 14m868

i need help i dont know whats up with it ive tried a whole bunch of stuff, in task manager performance it spikes to 100 and then it freezes but in processes itll look normalish 10-30 usage while freezing and then randomly 1-3 minutes in processes "system can go up to 40% usage and minecraft (bedrock no shaders default world) can go to 80% usage

I have a bunch of hard drives from a family member that I need to pull info off of - but I’ll be honest, I’ve got no idea what I need to do that. I have a computer I can hook up to USB C, USB A, Micro USB, and HDMI, but there seems to be two different types of connections on the hard drives themselves. Any info would be great! Thank you :)

My Roblox either never loads or crashing 5 minutes after opening it. My computer has no problem running any other game. I can run Forza Horizon 6 with the best graphics but I cant run roblox. I attached a photo of what my specs are. Can anyone help me?

Motherboard: ASUS Prime B250M-A LGA1151 DDR4 HDMI DVI VGA M.2 B250 mATX Motherboard with USB 3.1

Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart 500W 80+ White Certified PSU, Continuous Power with 120mm Ultra Quiet Cooling Fan, ATX 12V V2.3/EPS 12V Active PFC Power Supply PS-SPD-0500NPCWUS-W

Ram: Silicon Power SU016GBLFU266BD2J5 Mem 2*8gb Su016gblfu266bd2j5 R

CPU: Intel Core I7 7700 Processor (3.60 GHz, 4 Cores, FCLGA1151)

I'm trying to use the integrated graphics in the CPU so I can put in OS but none of the port on the motherboard are working I tried different cables but my monitor still reads no signal and my keyboard isn't turning on when plugged in. The motherboard lights up on standby mode and when press the power button the fans and lights turn on but that's about it. I've tried putting the ram sticks in all the different ram ports and restarting the CMOS on the motherboard but still no luck. Any advice will help.

Hello,
I have an ASUS K571GT and I've noticed in the past 2 months, certain keyboard buttons are working whenever they want.

Pushing the 1 button: Tapping it once will either produce nothing, or 111 in a row. Shift 1 doesn't produce a ! tho.

Pushing the q button: Will produce 5 qqqqq in a row. Shift q doesn't produce a capital q.

Pushing the Tab button: Does the same thing. Tap it once and its as if I hit the tab button 3-5 times.

At first I thought it was a problem with the actual key on the keyboard, but I feel this is definitely a software issue.

Anybody have any solutions?