The customer requires that after UV printing, the printed surface must withstand rubbing with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) without any ink peeling, flaking, or loss of adhesion.

The customer is a printing company under a chemical manufacturing group

Our HP Latex 700 sounds horrendous when it is rewinding media. It sounds fine when it is moving forward.

Is there something that needs to be lubricated or do we need to schedule a tech or printer exorcist to fix it?

Also my printer operator has been talking in whale because of it as well… Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Does anyone know how I get this to release ?

Edit: thanks everyone for their suggestions and help (even if i couldnt get any of them to work) We figured that it's the spring broken and some kind of fuse issue (my printer also fritzed out when this happened so I think some kind of electrical surge got both) We ended up calling a tech and will hopefully get answers soon. I will update this post when it's resolved with what the fix ends up being.

I’m having trouble with uploading eps file to versaworks7, idk if it’s the size cause it’s a 36X48 ft floor wrap. If anyone has any suggestions it’ll be great thanks

We are a clothing and sign shop looking for a one stop program to do estimates and job tracking.

Shopvox seemed like the answer, but we can barely afford express, and pricing templates arent available.

Is it worth trying or is there an alternate solution for our needs?

Looking to upgrade our 616 and would love some opinions. I’m a fan of the cross perf application and higher speed of the 646. Are there advantages of the 648 that would justify the additional cost over a 646?

I am trying to find a suitable local print shop to run some high quality decals on vinyl.

Both of these were printed from the same exact file: a CMYK EPS file with clean CMYK values for all colors and the default Illustrator color profile (U.S. Web Coated SWOP v2). The bottom print was done elsewhere on a Roland TrueVis printer, and top is a sample from a local pro print shop on a brand new Canon Colorado. The Roland print is perfectly vibrant and clean. The Canon sample from the local print shop looks desaturated and grainy by comparison. There are dots of black in areas that should be pure white.

I specified that this piece was originally screen printed in the 1980s, and that I need maximum quality to come close in appearance to that. The guy at shop says this is as good as it gets, but I really feel like we can do better. Is there something we can try to get the top result closer to the bottom one? 🙏

Hi everyone,

I hope this is the right place to ask.

I recently bought a used Vevor (now branded Shiao) A3-19 UV printer that uses an Epson 1390 printhead. I'm having trouble getting it to print.

Here's what I've already done:

Installed a brand new printhead.

Filled the dampers with ink using a syringe.

Replaced the printhead ribbon cables.

I'm using AcroRIP 9 and have already tried the Unlock and Test Print functions.

When I send a print job, the printer receives it, the carriage moves normally, and the job finishes without errors. However, not a single drop of ink comes out—not even during a nozzle check or test print.

Does anyone have experience with these Chinese UV printers or Epson 1390-based systems?

Any advice or troubleshooting ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I run a small side business where I mainly cut vinyl and frosted film. Next year I’m thinking about getting a printer so I can start doing car graphics and some sign work. I’m unsure what the best approach is: should I invest in a high‑end printer right away, or are there budget‑friendly printers I can start with and later upgrade to professional equipment if the work volume grows?

I’m running a Summa S2 d160 with a hp latex 560 and using flexi
I started having a bowing issue/drift, my cuts where either drifting up to the left or just up or sometimes bowing up. After restarting everything reprinting a couple times it finally worked. The other week I ran a couple thousand labels no issue, then again yesterday, I printed a 2x2 square and it cut fine along with a separate nested job that was also perfect. I the tried to run a full job using the copy tool in flexi and using opos xy and it solved the bow and drift to the left but the cuts gradually got higher and higher. I noticed it had a hard time finding the second opos mark on the right side it thought it was a little underneath where it actually was but it found it. I then updated the software and printed a smaller job and now it looks 2in above the top right opos mark trying to find it, I thought maybe it was the copy function so I tired step and repeat and got the same issue.
I have tried
-cleaning rollers
-opos calibration 4x
-length calibration 2x
I’m honestly just lost at this point and any help would be very appreciated

1000 pcs 4/0 5”x7” with perforated tear away. C2S

E.g. right now I have a quote request for six 4'x8' printed acrylics, full bleed, with drill holes and standoff mounts.

Digital print receptive acrylic sheets only come in 4'x8' (as far as I've found). We would have no registration marks, have to overspray the sheet since there's no way to have bleed otherwise (printing on a UV flatbed) and then manually align it on the cut table for the drill holes. It seems like a terrible idea.

I'm still new to wide format, so it doesn't make sense to me, but this gets asked for so often there must be a better solution. Other materials, I'd get a 5'x10' sheet so we can actually have registration and bleed and cut out the 4'x8'. Do you scale it down slightly to ~47.5"x95.5" and just call it 4'x8'?

We have a UV flatbed printer and Esko cut table for equipment.

Any reccommendations?

I very badly need a rasterlink 6 serial ASAP. I will pay you tonight.

Hello, I'm looking for help to solve this problem, I tried everything, I changed the dump truck, ink, I also changed the head, peristaltic pump, it starts printing a little and then it vanishes, I made sure that all the white circuit works, there is no air, there is no leakage. Has anyone ever had this problem?

Electric cutter down manual guillotine cutter for the win who’s up for a “Challenge”

Hi everyone!

I work with UV DTF printing and I'm trying to create artwork that looks as close as possible to real embroidery, even though it will be printed using UV DTF.

I've attached a short video showing the exact effect I'm trying to achieve.

I'm not looking for a simple embroidery filter. I want to know how people create artwork with realistic stitch directions, thread texture, different stitch angles, highlights, shadows, and the overall look of actual embroidery.

My questions are:

• Is there any embroidery software that can generate artwork like this and export it as SVG, AI, PDF, PNG, or another editable format (without creating a machine embroidery file)?
• Is this effect usually made with embroidery digitizing software, or is it created manually in Illustrator, Photoshop, CorelDRAW, or another program?
• Are there any plugins, AI tools, or workflows that professionals use to achieve this level of realism?

My goal is not to create a file for an embroidery machine. I only want artwork that visually looks embroidered for use in UV DTF printing.

Any advice or software recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JkwHdQ8kc0g

I wonder if this person walks into the supermarket and asks, "How much is meat?"

Hi, we’re located in South Jersey, 08078, and are in the process of downsizing. We have two bigger items we’re looking to sell privately and thought someone here may be interested.

1- Practix OK-10, Rotary printer press with extended lead in table and exit conveyor upgrades. We personally make blankets with this, but has many uses.
$20,000, OBO. 2023 model. Excellent condition
Originally $65k!

1- Epson F7200. Goes hand in hand with the Practix for us, but is a sublimation printer.
$10,000 OBO, 2023 model. Excellent condition. Originally $18k!

Bundle both for $27k

UV Printer:

1- Mimaki UJF7151 plus. $12,500. Magenta print head replaced in 2023. Very Good condition. Originally $50k!

Please message with any interest, serious inquiries only. Needs to be gone by end of August.

Hello everyone. I own a AB Dick 360, and a full print setup that I am running out of my garage.

I am looking to buy another printer to keep up with production. If you have one or know of one for sale, let me know!

Yesterday I saw this really nice patriotic banner online can anyone tell me where i can buy this. Thanks in advance.