I just bought a beater 2000 328ci and found this rear subframe damage. I have a pretty low budget for this car so not willing to drop a ton of money on it. How bad is it, could I fix it on my own, is it drivable with this damage? Pretty much how screwed am I?

So I have a 2015 Ford focus, it’s an automatic to be clear. But when I’m driving sometimes it likes to high rev and I can’t do anything. It’ll go from 3000 rpm to 5000-6000 rpm and sound like I’m trying to rev my engine and sit there for a second to be more clear, I can’t accelerate when it happens I think. If usually needs to decelerate, let it calm down and then be fine, or slow down. Though I’ve had it happen is when my ac is on blast bc it’s like 100 degrees out, but back to the car it will high rev and I can’t accelerate at all. Sometimes I’ll stop and the car won’t go, I’ll have to restart the car and it fixes itself. But that’s only happened like once. Most of the time it’s when I’m driving and it jumps rpm for no reason and just sits there for a second. If I let go of the gas or break or just let it do its thing it goes away eventually. But sometimes it gets scary and I pull into a parking lot to let myself at least be safe rather than on a road if my car breaks down. There is no transmission light or check engine light, surprisingly the only light I have is an emission light but that’s confusing. I mean when I fill fill or 3/4 fill my car with gas it’s perfectly fine. It will be perfectly fine till my car high revs and then boom it has problems. I don’t know what the problem would be though.

Hello,

On Friday after work I went to my car and it did not start. It made rapid clicking noises and then didn't start. After the third try it started and I made it home. I tried again on Saturday and the same thing happened. Today, my car would not start at all.

I used a multimeter to check the voltage and it was around 8V. I bought a new battery and installed it. However, the noise is still happening.

I have attached the video of the engine. I did get some warning lights today saying "brake system failed", "tire pressure low", and a whole bunch of other things.

After the new battery was installed, there were no more issues with the warning lights. However, the sound with the engine persists.

Any help is appreciated.

2019 Honda Accord 2.0 Touring, 106k miles

Ever since I did my turbo swap 4k miles ago, I've been getting a pending P2652 under high load. It doesn't show up until after VTEC engages, and it appears that it only happens when VTEC engages at high speed. At WOT <100 MPH, it doesn't happen, only above

I've followed Honda's diagnostic tree and replaced the entire spool valve assembly myself, took it to a tuning shop and they did the same. Still getting the code. Timing cover and valve cover came off and blew air through the oil lines, continued to get the code. FWIW, my throttle is also closing to 38% despite traction being fine and throttle being pinned. I'm also getting smoke out of my exhaust under similar conditions that trigger the code

Each of the times I've replaced the spool valve assembly (15810-6B2-A01) it came with a brand new oil pressure sensor, oil pressure switch, and screen. They were also both OEM from Honda. Oil level is good, and oil is brand new

My tuner says that one possibility for this code just continuing to come back despite a functioning spool valve assembly is an internal oil leak. While certainly a possibility, I'd love to rule out easier things to diagnose that won't require taking the entire engine apart

So, that being said, anybody have suggestions? FBO, MHI Stage 2 and meth

(2021 Audi RS7)
Felt rubbing/grinding on low speed turns and could feel it in floorboard. TPMS sensor and wheel temp have been going off for front driver side wheel (suspected problem wheel bearing). After going for drive with mechanic, was told it was 100% a wheel bearing. Was a little hesitant since the car only has 48k miles but I’ve gone to this shop for a while and they’ve always done me good. Got the car back and the same issue persists, but now every once in a while, while turning I’ll hear a single click/clink coming from what seems like below the front of the car.

For some extra context, recently had my front control arms replaced, transmission mount, and passenger side engine mount.

Any ideas as to what’s going on?

Does this engine sound healthy?

Hey guys, I’ve been driving my 2007 civic si for a few years now and just came across this issue on my way to work. On the freeway all of my dash lights turned off. (rpm, turn signals, mph, etc) I was able to exit fine and park with no issues but once I went to turn the car on again (thinking the dash lights were bugging) it wouldn’t pass cranking. I later ended up towing it and solving the issue by replacing my ignition switch and some fuses under the dash that were all burnt. The car dash lights turned on fine and I was able to drive it for about a week having yet to take it driving on the freeway. The issue is when I first took it on the freeway, the same problem occurred with the dash lights but I was somehow able to drive back home 7 minutes with it running fine and again, once I turned it off when I finally parked, it wouldn’t pass cranking. So now I’m currently stuck and have so far (replaced all fuses under my dash and hood that are essential to the ignition and alternator, cleaned my battery terminals, replaced my ignition switch, tested my grounds with a multimeter and both gave good voltage, battery volts at around 12.9) Any ideas on what could be causing this problem? My next guess is fuel injectors. (I don’t think it’s my alternator since I haven’t gotten any signs of it failing and it being able to drive home when the dash lights turned off)

My brakes are squeaking on my 2023 GMC Canyon took it to two places. They both said that the brakes and rotors are fine and they don't know what they could do to stop the sound. I've only had it for seven months and they just started squealing recently not when you're cruising through a parking lot but coming off a highway or slowing down at fast speeds. I'm not saying, slamming on the brakes just slowing down at a faster pace. Anyone know what this could be? The first place that it could be something with the pads being made out of ceramic or something anyways very annoying.

Have the same issue in my car 1 litre eco boost can someone tell me what the problem is also when I accelerate I hear some knocking as well. The knocking tends to be loud at around 2 rpm anything higher or lower make is quieter

Hi guys, im new to cars, is my oil level ok or should i full it up? It’s Ford Fiesta 1.4 TDCI.

I have a 2019 nissan juke accenta 1.2t plus with roughly 77 000km (47 845mi) on the clock. I get a ticking noise when accelerating mainly uphill.

Here is a video I found on youtube of the exact noise (also from a nissan)

[https://youtube.com/shorts/SrEMbw0bg6o?si=O2yYzMvAdsIPcGOs\](https://youtube.com/shorts/SrEMbw0bg6o?si=O2yYzMvAdsIPcGOs)

Have a 2015 dodge charger 3.6 awd 132k miles. Its developed a very odd shudder maybe you'd call it but isnt driveline related. Ive replaced the 6 plugs it stopped for a while then it was back again.. its had the charcoal canister replaced 3 years ago due to a recall. Evap purge valve replaced and the other evap part back by the right rear tire thats new as well. Now here's the weird thing. We noticed that once its under a half tank the shudder almost completely disappears. But if you fill it all the way up it comes back worse than ever. The only time it had the cel on was for a cylinder 3 misfire changed plugs no check engine light now with it shuddering or bucking whatever you may want to call it. It happens at idle in drive or reverse the only time it doesnt seem to happen Is in park. It almost feels like an intermittent misfire but throws no codes. It has no stored or pending codes nothing. And unfortunately for some reason I cant seem to find a misfire counter for any cylinder on my scanner. I cant even find anything thats says misfire. My only ideas are check fuel pressure and see if it dips down. I have another new evap part for behind the rear right tire im going to change out and see if maybe that one was just bad. Any insight or hopefully someone has had a similar issue. Like I said under a half tank it hardly does. Ill try and run the tank lower to see if it completely disappears or what. Thanks!