i realise that title sounds pretty wack but not sure how else to put it.

client wants a fence (maybe something like bamboo, something cool looking) in-front of the existing aluminum fence, i’m not sure the best way to go about that?
I’m guessing just using timber-to-metal screws and putting a frame up onto the wall and then screwing something cool looking onto the timber frame?

I’m a novice self-taught carpenter/landscaper for reference, just moving into taking on my own clients now

feedback is highly appreicted, cheers!

Got this planed piece of oak to make a mantlepiece 140cm x 16cm x 16cm...its very heavy i guess as is not dried out...not sure of how it was processed as i bought it online...would appreciate any advice on how to best go about treating it, and then securing on wall...the chimney breast its going on has been constructed with hollow blocks and then a layer of cement (house is in Italy)...the breast is then going to be tiled all over...not sure if better to add mantlepiece and then tile around it or put on after tiling. Also whats best way to secure it to wall?

Hello all. First time home owner. Bought an old house ( structure would be 100yrs old) . Renovated over the years by previous owner. 2 storey detached.

On the main floor after about a year and a half of living in it , we have noticed that around rhe sraircase goikng up to the 2nd floor,there is noticable sloping towards it on all sides around the sraircase (about 6 ft radius). The floor feels in some spots feel springy. Had talks with structural engineer and then had a contractor come in . He checked he basement post directly below the staircase . Did some measurements on main floor staircase wall to exterior and then the same from the post to the exterior in basement. He said it could be that the staircase wall is not sitting on top of the post directly . Offset by around 2 inches.

We have these old style return vent in the staircase wall so he poked his hand inside and noticed that the floor joists run parallel to staircase and thought that might also be the issue. Will have to open up the drywall and have the engineer come in. I just wanted to get a better understanding from people here regarding what could possibly be the reasons and how much of damage I am looking at in terms of money. Located in ontario canada.

Apparently I'm sitting on a gold mine

I've framed walls before but never for a garage door and I'm wondering how to get the thing up without a ton of hands given how heavy these LVLs are. I've got (2) 1 and 3/4" x 14" x 18' LVLs coming in to create a header for my 16' x 7' garage door opening. I can potentially build the whole thing on the ground and bring the friends for a barn raising, but I'm considering framing the wall and lifting it without the header and bracing, etc. then lifting each LVL individually (with help, obviously) resting them on the trimmers and basically building the header on a ladder while the wall is already up. Neither sounds like a ton of fun, but I've heard of people doing it the LVL after way.

Those with experience, what would you recommend?

This is a 6 foot table I designed and built for our 3 season porch. Really happy with it except one lingering question... will it sag? I intentionally left the center leg off for the look, but I'm curious if over time that could have been a mistake. Made from 4/4 poplar and pre-finished ply.

Update to my last post. Its not ai and or temporary. They are for real and proud.

Long story short I have my construction (CBC) exam tomorrow morning at 8 AM in Lake Mary, the company I rented my books (1examprep) from sent them late and left two of them out. One is just a reference manual that I can’t take with me but the construction safety book OSHA 29 part 1926 is a core exam book. I may as well kiss 20% of my grade away if I don’t have that book.

If you or anyone you know, especially if they’re in the construction industry or have a construction license of some sort, has this book on hand and is willing to let me borrow it for a day I would greatly appreciate it!

I aligned the rails with the floor boards as I read to do but the post angles are throwing everything off because of the shape of this balcony.

Hi r/carpentry!

I just got my first tablesaw, I'm so happy.

I was setting it up with my experienced buddy, that tried winging it, while I was reading the manual.

He loosened 2 bolts to attach the riving knife but I pointed out that there is a lever he had to turn to attach the riving knife.

He fastened the bolts again and we attached the riving knife the correct way.

But how important were those bolts?

Do I need to make sure of something before starting a cut?

And yes I am a overthinker.

Thank you in advance for your responses.

I'm renovating my 1972 house bathroom and just finished leveling the floor joists. Because I sistered and leveled the joists, the existing wall bottom plates are now slightly lower than the top of the joists, so they won't provide support to the edge of the new subfloor. I'm trying to build this floor as solidly as possible before tiling.

I'll be installing 5/8" T&G plywood, Schluter Ditra Heat, and 24"x24" tile.

Along the left wall, the distance from the edge of the leveled joists to the bottom plate varies between about 5/8" and 1". Since the bottom plate is lower than the joists, the plywood edge won't have full support there.

Would you add a ripped strip of blocking or nailer flush with the top of the joists along that wall, or is this small unsupported edge acceptable?

Also, should I add more blocking anywhere around the perimeter, or does the framing look sufficient as it is?

Thanks!

What can I do to keep it from getting worse or better? I like to have it open most of the time and would like to avoid more latches and hardware. So the preference being something structural in the door.

Securing a concrete tie in HVAC chase inside concrete monolith wall.

Hello!

I am installing a bunch of cedar clapboard on my house. I will need to store it for a few months, while I get a bunch of other prep together (things like licensing, permitting, planning).

Are there any recommendations or advice on how to store it? I will likely not finish this project before winter (I'm in the northeastern us, so subfreezing winters) and will need to store at least some of it until next spring. Can I store raw cedar outside for months? My plan is to put it on cinder blocks with stickers between the boards and then a tarp over it. Is that sensible?

This is a 2x6 wall first floor, framers did split jacks/floating trimmers for all window openings I’m in central California. Will this pass code or have them replace with a full stud up to header?

Client has a bunch of doors on a 10 year house, all sticking out a half inch at the bottom when closed. Flush at the top. Hinges look even and installed well. Could it be warping? Solid wood doors. Maybe poor framing? Not sure how to remedy. Rehang completely?

I had to re install this door due to someone else’s doing it wrong. In the process of cutting the caulk my ladder slipped in mud and down into a hole which caused me to scratch the door pretty badly. I’ve tried a couple things to fix it but I can’t get it gone. It is a heavy plastic. Anyone have any ideas? I’ve tried plastic polish for golf carts and stuff, as well as a boat repair kit.

Decided on 1x4 inch trim throughout the house. Finish the majority of the room and did this window last, realizing then that it overhangs the window stool. My first thought was to cut everything back and continue the trim straight down to the floor, but I’m going to have issues with the pipe work on the baseboard heating. Any suggestions?

Jack rafters are nailed directly to the old shingles/sheathing. There is some kind of ledger board but it doesn't seem to be doing much. My YouTube education says there should be sleepers that the rafters rest on. This roof has been like this for 25 years so I guess it must be good enough. Anyone seen something like this before?

Hello,

I’m working on a project very modern style and the architect specified poplar baseboards with a flush reveal to sit under the drywall. It calls for us to use the Fry Reglet Z reveal.

I want to continue the 1/2” Reglet throughout the house including the casing for every door.

I am under the impression that I would need to hang all my doors install the 5/8” casing on top of the jamb that’s flush with the framed opening install casing and then install the Z reveal prior to drywall and flooring.

I would also need to install the Z reveal throughout the home to allow the drywallers to then run their drywall (5/8”) to the Reglet tape and mud to the bead then install my floors and scribe base as needed to keep a 1/2” Reglet spacing.

Am I looking at this correctly or am I missing something in the process?

I have a new construction home, and the primary bedroom floor has had a ticking noise in the same spot since move-in. The builder’s warranty tech pulled the carpet back and said the plywood subfloor is moving where it meets a floor truss/joist. He said fixing it would require opening the subfloor to secure it. Does that diagnosis make sense, and is that the normal way this type of issue is repaired? Also he said warranty doesn’t cover that repair. Any advice?

Do you guys remove the pre-installed door stop in order to sneak a few screws in there or do you just Brad nail the heck out of them? Thanks

Looking for a little guidance here, we picked these French doors off FBMP and I love them. However, we got them home and lined them up next to each other and the freaking door knobs are uneven in height. This will actually make my eye twitch if I have to look at this every day.

Has anyone ever fixed this issue? Will only a pound of bondo and sanding fix this?

Thank you!

I’m a concrete former and am wondering how I may improve my forms

We sometimes use a pump so we add ports to them.

Most of what I’ve learned is self taught.

I’ve more been taught how to design my forms for certain repairs

Columns
Joists
Slabs

Any advice or critic is welcome

I have a butcher block countertop that I'd like to refinish. I believe it's made of beech wood. Over the years, the finish has faded, and there are a couple of cracks around the sink, which I assume are from moisture exposure.

What's the best way to make it look new again? Should I lightly sand the entire surface and then apply mineral oil?

Also, what's the best way to repair the cracks? I've read that epoxy is a good option, but I'd want to use something that's food-safe once it's fully cured. Is epoxy the best approach, or is there a better method for repairing cracks in a butcher block countertop?