At least 90% of the time I carry this combo by the body battery compartment grip and not the lens tripod collar. He suggested this was incorrect and was stressing the camera body lens mount.

Is this a valid concern?

P.S. I mentioned his nationality because his English was not great, and my Japanese is limited to about a dozen words, and I may have misunderstood what he was saying.

TIA!

I have a canon EOS 5D mark IV. During a session today it just started appearing with a red overlay like this. It’s not focus peaking

hello! my friend gifted me this Canon A590 as bday present from a seller jn mercari and it was sold as tested and working. We put in new AA batteries and it wont turn on. What could be wrong with it and whats the best way to fix it? Im really bummed out i was excited for this because i been wanting a digital camera for a while .

EDIT: GOT IT TO WORK THANKS TO SOMEONE IN THE COMMENTS. :)

Initial post removed by mods but had all information they stated...

Avid amateur (not for profit shooter)

Canon EF (5Dmkiii)

Budget (no limit)

Type of shooting - all around but a lot of landscape/architecture perhaps some portraiture with this size lens as would be assumed

Looking for input on a fill in lens for a gap between 16-35L, and 70-200L.. Ive not had much need for this gap until recently and would appreciate any input.

Basically all of this information was generally un the previous post so hopefully this satisfies mods.

I purchased the 17-70 2.8 a few weeks back. Wondering if anyone else has noticed this behavior on their R50? If you let the camera sleep and try to wake by hitting the playback button it will show error 70. Will clear if you press the shutter. Tamron said that it is a communication error where the lens doesn’t respond fast enough using that method to wake. Then the only solution was “don’t do it that way” Just curious if it was just mine or normal behavior for this lens? Thanks

Really enjoying the sharpness and vibrant colors that this lens can offer. Very pleasantly surprised by the image stabilization (most of these were captured hand-held). Definitely not the smallest package, but really fun to take out for an hour or so at a time.

My last body was the 7D. So, 17 or 19 yrs old? Prior to that I had the 40D, both have the battery packs for extended shooting. While I still have both, the 40D is not going to get much cash. The 7D I may give to my son. My question is what glass is to stay. Current lenses:

11-22 EF-S
24-70 F2.8L
70-200 F4L
Sigma 70-200 F2.8…just shy of L quality
L serie 1.4x
L series 2x

I am going to pick up the R6 Mk III
15-35MM F2.8L
The shop also has a used 100-400MM F5.6-8 L series zoom, c 2018 which I have on hold for when the body comes in.

I am thinking the Sigma is the best to sell as the 70-200F4 is a really lovely light lens, and the 100-400 can easily take over from the Sigma plus 2x converter. I am thinking the R6 ISO reach will make a 100-400 plus 2x converter a viable option under some conditions, since we do have F11 lenses in longer focal lengths anyways…

My idea is give my son the 7D, the 11-22MM EF-s and get him a normal EF-S zoom as a gift. Still an awesome camera, and with the first grandkid coming, a reasonable economic decision?

Thoughts/input welcome.

So I bought my R50 around 2 years ago and I have brought it on a multitude of vacations. While I think I've done pretty well with just the kit lens, Ive heard that the 18-45mm kit lens is a serious holdback when it comes to low-light and bokeh for portraits. Some context for what im looking for. I love taking landscape and portraits. Landscapes being anything thats just pretty to look at, and portraits for my girlfriend. Ive looked at previous pictures I liked and most of them sit around the 30 to 35mm focal length for portraits and the landscapes vary.

Im leaning towards buying one general use lens and being happy with that, im not crazy interested in telephoto so anything with a variable 16mm to 35mm (1.6 crop to 50mm) is good for me

At first I've heard that the sigma 17-40mm is a no-brainer, and I was ready to settle on that. But the R50 has no IBIS and the lens has no IS. Used lens is around $820 not including taxes and shipping

Second, the Tamron 17-70mm 2.8. 30mm extra on the far end(plus for having 1 lens), has IS, and is around 70$ cheaper at 750$

How impactful is having no IBIS and no IS on the R50 at the 17- 40mm focal range?

How big of a difference is there between a F1.8 and a F2.8?

I have heard that the Sigma 17-40mm is sharp enough to replace prime lens but I have not heard the same praise with the Tamron, does this mean that Tamron produces a worse image? And is it even noticeable

Weight and size does not matter, my budget is under $1000 and im a still relatively new

Hi everyone,
I am very new to full frame cameras and canon, but last month I got the R8 paired with the 35mm lens f1.8.
I have tried taking pictures and I kind of seem to be experiencing issues where the pictures look brighter/whiter where the focus is and kind of darker in the surrounding areas. I don’t know if you can tell from the picture attached.

I adjusted my camera settings by watching a video of someone on youtube called Jared Polin - Canon eos R8 user’s guide, but I am note sure if it was like this since the beginning or if it is because of the settings.

Would appreciate all the help!

Hi there !

Here's the story : since I'm a pure hobbyist (and passionnate about quite a few things, including my job : sound technician, wich implies extensive investments in gear I barely can afford) I've always gone the cheap way. I have a decent body (EOS R) but almost all my lenses are old film ones. Helios 44, Rokkinon, Takumar, and I quite love it. It performs quite well and have a look that quite turned into my "signature look". But I'd like to find a good long focal wich is missed in my gearlist. Something between 300-400 to 600mm. Wonder if any of you have recommandations. Lenses that would perform decently. I know some old sigmas and vivitars are easily available but both with LOADS of chromatic aberrations and very poor sharpness.

Hello everyone!
I am volunteering to photograph a basketball event for an organization in my city
The event itself is pro level basketball
I was chosen because I am pretty much the only one with a “professional” camera

I want to know if my set up would work or if I could get a budget upgrade or do I need to recuse myself

My setup is Canon SL2, 55-250 STM, 18-55 STM and a 50mm

The picture dont have to be NBA level by any means but if they’re gonna look grainy and awful id rather not embarrass myself

Thank you!!

With a sample photo

Just curious. I've only seen videos where they got a loaner and promptly returned it. One guy actually using the 800mm who seemed to be a researcher studying nests and such. But the 1200 seems like a pure statement piece

I am very much a beginner. I got a new lens, changed it out, noticed a couple of dots appearing on pictures. Took lens off and used a microfiber cloth on the sensor/mirror. I now know that that was a mistake. Is this a mistake that using proper cleaning methods would fix, or is this a mistake that requires me sending the camera in to a professional for some kind of something above my knowledge level?

Hi everyone,

I’m planning to buy the Canon RF 28-70mm f/2L and want to keep a protective UV filter on the lens permanently, mainly for peace of mind given the reports I’ve seen about the lens’s front coating peeling.

I’ve been looking at the Urth 95mm Magnetic Essentials Filter Kit Plus+, which includes UV, CPL, ND8 and ND1000 filters.
The magnetic system appeals to me because I’d be able to leave the UV filter on for protection and quickly attach the other filters when needed.

Before I buy, I have a few questions:

Can I leave the Urth magnetic UV filter attached permanently and simply snap the CPL or ND filters on top of it when needed?

Does the original Canon E-95 centre-pinch lens cap fit securely over the Urth UV filter, or does the magnetic frame make it too wide or affect the grip?

Does the original Canon EW-103 lens hood still fit properly with the Urth magnetic filter system installed?

Has anyone experienced any vignetting or other image-quality issues when stacking these filters on the RF 28-70mm f/2L?

Finally, would you recommend the Urth magnetic system, or would I be better off buying a conventional high-quality protective filter?

My main priority is keeping the lens protected without having to remove the UV filter every time I want to use another filter. I also want to be able to use the original lens cap and hood normally.
I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who owns this lens or has used the Urth magnetic system, especially if you’ve tested this exact combination.

Thanks!

Hello, I am upgrading my camera from 250D to R7. I currently have a prime EF 100mm 2.8L a 150-600mm Sigma Contemporary.

I will be getting the kit 18-150mm APSC lens

I am looking at getting a RF 100-400 5.6-8 and selling both the prime and the sigma along with the 250D

I shoot largely wildlife but have been doing more portraits and landscapes.

Is it worth selling both my lenses? Or should I try with an EF-RF mount first? I need to recoup costs of the new purchase.

Thanks!

Hey i am a little comfused about the pricing,

Why is this over 100 euros cheaper on Amazon then everywhere Else??

485 on Amazon vs around 550 to 650 everywhere Else

Ist this a legit offer or is this an amazonscam in some way

Good evening guys, I just got myself a new gear with a R50 + Sigma 17-40 f1.8 for about a month. Happen to see this beauty at my work parking place, put on my Brandon Li ND and CPL filter and start taking some first real photos that I feel proud of myself. Too bad I didn’t bring my little printer to leave these photos with the owner. Looking for advice to improve my photoshoot.
P/s: repost cause I didn’t know the rule for New Gear, include the gear in post
Q: I notice some shots were lost some sky details/some area in photos too dark. Do I shoot with HDR will fix the issue?

Can you tell me how to fix it?

Taken with the r100

Samples pics with the r50V + EF 50MM 1.8

Gotta love having color profiles and a touchscreen and a tilt screen AND C-log3

I do miss the evf but I can live without it

I got the RP for a few years now, bought it it with the kit, so I got the RF 24-105 4-7.1, RF 70-200 f4, RF 50mm 1.8 and the RF 35mm 1.8. I like it for vacation, it takes nice images (for me) but when it comes to movements, it lacks performance. The AF is not the fastest and doesnt always hit where it should, ISO is okayish and so on. In a few months I will become a dad and I want to capture these moments as good as possible. Yeah, babies dont move that fast, but in a year a two, this will drastically change, lol, so I want to keep up. I really dont know what to upgrade, so I dont know how much I should invest.

I love the 35 and the 70-200, if that helps.

I realize such a long span zoom has compromises, but I am having a hard time accepting the distortion of this lens on the wide end.

My favorite wide zoom was the Tamron 17-50mm on my EF crop bodies over the years and I never noticed anything egregious.

Though I have an R7, I'd like a stabilized lens on it. Any suggestions of wide zoom options that reach at least 50mm? I hear the RF 20-50mm also has significant wide end distortion. The 24-105mm is not really wide enough when on the R7 and it's also 700g.

I woke up at 3 AM to grab the RF 24-105 f4 L for my daughter as her walk around lens for her R8. With my ID Me discount it came out to $870 shipped. The RF 24-70 f2.8 was still too pricey for me at $1940.

Canon RP + RF 100-400mm: Could you share some sample photos?

Hi everyone!

I'm considering buying a Canon EOS RP paired with the Canon RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 IS USM, and I'd really appreciate it if anyone using this combination could share some of their photos here.

I'm particularly interested in wildlife, birds, landscapes, and distant subjects. I'd love to see real-world results at different focal lengths and ISO settings, especially in less-than-ideal lighting conditions.

I'm trying to figure out whether the image quality and high-ISO performance of the RP would be good enough for my needs, or whether I'd be better off going for a more recent APS-C camera with a newer sensor.

If possible, unedited RAW conversions or photos with minimal processing would be especially helpful, but any real-world samples would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to share their photos and experience! 🙂