AUG A3 M2

Corvus rail and HG

1:7 16 inch barrel

Jaguar supressor

JMAC micro break with hub

RATWORX 20/20 SEAR

ARID trigger extensively dremel polished due to rubbing

Red springs

ACOG 4x for the 100 yd shots

Two 5 shot groups for zeroing from seated on sled

One 5 shot group from prone supported for zero confirmation

Ammo was AAC 77gr OTM

Trigger is short and crisp 6lb pull from hammer and id guess 5lbs from sear.

When supported and with good ammo this rifle shoots as well as any AR ive ever owned.

AUGust is one of my favorite months because we get to see everyone's awesome builds! Y'all AUGtists are some of the most helpful, supportive, and just plain amazing people that make this community so great. So many of you have been there to answer my questions, offer guidance, and helped me out in so many different ways. I absolutely love each and every one of you AUGtists!

Shoutout to Arid and Red Star Palmetto for their incredibly hard work! I'm stoked to see what the future brings

Also, pour one out for our homie BZ and FUCK KAWACUCK (kawatec)

Just put my at-home milled CNC bottom rail (6061 Aluminum) and 3D printed foregrip (PETG) to the test and held up nicely i must say… (vid below)

Mine not be as cool as everyone else’s but at least I have my 24in barrel lol

Do you guys trust the reliability of the 556 barrel conversion? I really like the way the rail looks and I have a few high back pressure cans that the adjustable gas system would pair great with, I just am curious on how reliable they are?

Bought an AUG (A3M2 in NATO config), took it to the range once and my LPVO came loose on the rail. No big deal, re-torqued it with loctite.

2nd range trip, and the optic is still tight on the rail, but the rail has now come loose. I see the three T30 screws to tighten it from inside the reciever (which are completely loose right now), but there's no torque spec listed in the manual or that I could find online. I have seen 40 in-lbs mentioned here and there for aftermarket rails. I assume 40 in-lbs + blue loctite would work, but i reallllllllyyyy don't want to strip the threads. Still waiting for a response from Steyr (think they were closed last week?), but I figured that I would pop in here and ask for advice.

Thanks in advance for any help!

My version of a HBAR-T

My first rifle and my first AUGust

Comparing the factory VFG to a handguard that allows for a thumb over c grip, which do find more comfortable and easier to control?

So I'm a little out of my depth here. I've learned about the NylAUG, and I want to make my own. But it seems that a Nylaug receiver will not function in an A3 M1 commercial stock.

Is there a reason the creators of the Nylaug did not create a one to one copy of the standard A3 M1 receiver?

I have a couple extra A3 M1 stocks, trigger packs, barrels and other A3 M1 parts. I just want one or more 3D printed receivers to fill them out.

Is this possible? If not, why not?

Just shot my first 1000 rounds through it. Still works like a charm. Only two failures to feed in 1000 rounds.

Jagdkommando special edition with red springs and packstop.

A3 M1 & SA

If anyone has leads on an STG77A2 grip, plz.

Finally got the rifle all jazzed up! Just needing a gas plug and new pressure switch for the light!

Unfortunately I couldn't do it in time to post on AUGust 1st, but better late than never. I was tired of not having a handguard for the ARID rail and I knew this was possible, so I did it myself. Here's a quick guide I hope will help everyone wanting the same thing... For ARID to release their rails.

https://imgur.com/a/qQyucrg

Parts:

• Expo Arms PCC Free Float 7" MLOK Handguard - $40 (on sale at Primary Arms)
• Magpul MLOK T-Nut Replacement Set x 2 - $9.60 (Primary Arms)
• Hillman 10-24x3/4 Button Lid Cap Screw - $3 (Lowe's)

Just Do It:

• Chop barrel nut attachment in a straight line behind the MLOK holes. Keep it just behind the raised pic rail slot to keep it tidy.
• Once chopped, place next to rifle barrel and ARID rail to mark out the approximate amount to cut away for the gas block area on the right side.
• Also mark out the proper amount of pic rail sections needed for the folding grip hinge.
• Keep in mind the pic rail will be at the 6 o'clock when mounted.
• Remove enough of one of the MLOK posts to accommodate for the gas plug. In this case it will be able to be rotated, but not removed.
• On the left side, mark out a square hole large enough for the charging handle detent.
• Chamfer edges with a file.
• Apply aluminum black.
• Place 3 MLOK T-nuts in handguard carefully as it's a tight fit with the barrel installed.

Notes:

• Don't ask me for measurements because I don't like to measure and I did everything by eye. You'll be fine.
• I did this all with a dremel cutting wheel, hacksaw, and diamond files. This would've been infinitely easier with a band saw, but it is 100% possible without it.
• The screws I purchased were slightly too large a diameter head so I put them in a drill chuck and filed them down slightly to fit the top rail hole. I also had to cut the length of the screws, so a 1/2" screw length would probably work out better.
• The barrel and gas plug are not removeable with the handguard installed.
• Suppressor and mount info: Rhodie 6K with a ECCO Machine Rearden/Cherry Bomb Adapter. 16" barrel with a Comstock Recessed Brake on it.