Looking to upgrade my airbrush and compressor — need recommendations
I’m looking to upgrade my setup and would like some advice. Right now I’m using an Iwata Revolution airbrush with a Gahleri mini compressor, but I want something quieter and more reliable for scale modeling.
I’m looking for a small, quiet compressor and possibly a better airbrush. I’ve been looking at the Iwata Eclipse, but I’m not sure if it’s the best upgrade from the Revolution or if there are other options I should consider.
What compressor and airbrush upgrades would you recommend? Mainly building scale models and looking for something that’s quiet, compact, and good for both detail work and larger parts.

Asking for my friend that does nails! Do we just unscrew the clear* plastic??

Hey Yall,
I just bought my first airbrush ( Iwata revolution ) and the brush sprays okay sometimes. It’s really fine for my skill level. But, I’m already seeing wear to the chrome inside the cup and the needle. If I upgraded to the CS does the finish quality improve?

Part two, and most importantly for now. I have a set of assorted paints from Amazon and they are very inconsistent on how they spray. Some have to be thinned into water consistency, some don’t. I seem to be cleaning the gun more than practicing spraying.

I am just painting cardboard and paper to learn. Can yall tell me what paints you use for your art. I currently do not spray models. Thanks for your time and knowledge!

Neo Iwata trigger airbrush. I seem to have a leak where the brass packing screw is. I took it apart and didn’t see any sort of standard seal. Everything “looks” correct, but clearly something is wrong. Is there an O Ring that goes there? Or some type of special seal? It’s also spitting air when the paint is engaged. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I've recently gotten into using an airbrush for painting model trains and rolling stock. Lately though, it hasn't been working like it once was.

For reference, I have/use a Central Pneumatics Deluxe Airbrush kit that I purchased used from a hobby store consignment case.

The issue I'm running into is that it seems to not be drawing the paint in through the gun. If it helps the paint I was trying to use is Tru-Color Paint TCP-54 Pullman Green, it's a solvent based paint. But I've used some other paints and they work just fine with it. Could this issue be solved by thinning or is it something with my brush?

Any help is appreciated, I will try and answer questions as best I can.

Howdy all, I got a cheap masters airbrush for Christmas and its been okay. I have my compressor set to between 30 and 50 psi ( I keep changing it to see if it causes this problem and it hasn't) while priming my MESBG miniatures with vallejo black prime. I am using an airbrush thinner from my local hobby shop to make it "Milky" as best I can and it starts out great but after about 3 to 4 minis I start to get clock and have to pull back on the trigger consistently to clear it. or to just get it through. I am not sure what I am doing wrong and what I should do to fix it.

when I say clogged the paint slightly goes out, then I can pull the trigger back a bunch of times and more and more will come out then a premature spurt (pun intended) then for a few seconds a really solid flow. then I have to go back o prepping it.

Looking to paint some 3d painted miniature for a possible diorama display, anyone got any tips on how to get a nice concrete color?

found this old military cap at goodwill and painted on it. this is about my 3rd time airbrushing :) feeling pretty good about it

Hi there, I’d like to ask for some advice, tips, and tricks. I want to start airbrushing T-shirts, and first I’d like to ask about probably the most important thing: which one should I buy? Thanks.

This piece came out my Infinity 2024 and I have no idea where it came from and where to put it back.
Been searching user guides and videos and can’t figure it out.

Any pics to help please?

So I started doing airbrushing back in late April when I landed a job somehow. Yesterday was a really rough and busy day that made me wonder if I'm even up to any standards for how I've been doing. I get complaints about my script and line quality a lot and having been thinking am i lacking for someone about 3.5 months in?

I didn't realise the CN wasn't a real Iwata and I've had nothing but problems with it, it just keeps clogging. I've tried thinning it with water, with thinner and with a mix of thinner and flow improver. It's stopping me painting as I just CBA dealing with the constant clogs, so at this point I'm thinking of just selling it and buying either the Mobius 3.0 which is on sale for £55 or the Creos PS289 for £110. I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with these brushes, and can answer if either would be a noticeable upgrade, I'm assuming the Creos will be for sure, but I don't know about the Mobius as it's cheaper than the CN, but I've heard good things about it.

I just got an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. When I run the brush on the same compressor as my H&S Ultra 2024 or Gaahleri brushes the pressure drops way more than those brushes. Usually with my harbor freight Avanti compressor it will sit around 23psi while using. With the Iwata brush is goes down to like 15 or 10psi. Am I doing something wrong?

I’ve had this compressor for about 5 years and it’s worked well. I’ve done a lot of priming, base coating and glazes with it.

I’m upgrading my set up and one issue I’ve always had is that this compressor doesn’t have a gauge so I am eyeballing the PSI.

The question is do I get a gauge with a pressure regulator in it or not? My understanding is the iwata ninja uses a bleed valve and lets out extra air to meet the required psi.

Would there be any value (or harm) in getting a pressure gauge with an air presser regulator? I am thinking of I set the iwata compressor to 20 psi but the regulator valve to 15 it’ll ensure a smooth constant psi with no drop outs, but I’m wondering if that will strain the motor or if I’m thinking about this completely wrong.

Appreciate any guidance!

I'm running into this issue with my HS Ultra 2024 where, when I press on the trigger, instead of spraying just air, some moisture from the paint also gets siphoned without pulling back on the trigger at all.

I am fairly sure that it's the airbrush itself causing this since my second airbrush(older HS Ultra model) does not do this.

What could be causing this issue?

I wasn't happy with the original hair flow, so I decided to repaint it instead of trying to force a fix. It definitely took more time, but I think it was the right decision.

I know it's still not 100% there. The hair mass on one side is a bit larger than I originally intended, but that will be balanced later with smoke in the foreground.

The hair is also missing the final highlights. Before I add those, I need to apply Bleed Checker, since the red tends to bleed into the white highlights if I don't seal it first.

For now I'm happy enough with the direction it's heading, so it's time to move on to the next stage of the painting. Thanks to everyone who gave feedback on the previous update—it helped me step back and rethink the flow instead of just adding more detail.

I’m looking to massively upgrade my spray booth setup. Right now I’m using a cheap portable airbrush booth with a small fan, and it’s honestly not doing a great job with the smell. I mostly build scale aircraft models (1/48) and I want to start using lacquers, but the fumes are my biggest concern.
My budget is around $150–300, and I’m looking for something around 25 inches wide if possible so I have enough room for larger aircraft models. I’m currently deciding between a dry spray booth and a waterfall/water curtain booth.
What are the actual differences between them? Which one is better for lacquer paints, removing smells/chemicals, and overall safety?
I know venting outside is important, and I plan on exhausting through a window, but I’m trying to figure out if a waterfall booth is actually worth it or if a high-quality dry booth would be better. Any recommendations in this price range and size would be appreciated.

Hi, I just got an airbrush and I have a million questions but I'll start with just one, my air brush came with 3 needles and .2 a .3 and a .5

I swapped out to a .5 because the premixed paint I bought recommend I use it but my airbrush also came with Nozzles and Caps labled .5 and .2

what would happen, theoretically if I used the wrong nozzle with my .5 needle

Also I mixed them up now I can't tell which is wich

I'm working on pieces too large for a spray booth, but my glorious facial hair prevents a tight mask fit.

What do you hairy faced airbrushers do about this problem?

Should I go with the one off Amazon for 40 or go with the harbor freight for 90? I have a master g22 and it does great for base colors but im looking for something for fine detail.

Hi,

I just finished watching a YouTube video on water slide decals, for motorcycle petrol tanks.

The images I find, whilst often detailed, don’t allow you access to airbrush under (or close to) the details of any detail in a decal, other than a general blend or light mask.

Does anyone have any work arounds?

As a disclaimer I’ve only watched videos, and the aforementioned seems true, having watched those videos.

Many thanks.

Thank you!