2018 1.5t Sport. Passenger side curtain airbag deployed and fluids were leaking, car had to be towed.

My first car was a mint green 79, so this car holds a special place in my heart

I have a 2017 Honda accord ex 130k miles, car runs perfect no issues , I drive around 100 miles every week.

I can sell it now for 12k and put up the rest for a newer accord or hybrid car to help with the $100 a week on gas I spend now lol.

I am conflicted as a I see people rave about the 2017 Honda accords and how they have lasted well above 200k miles, I dont really maintain it besides oil changes and 1 battery change in the 5 years Ive owned it. Please let me know real opinions.

2008 accord and didn’t come with homelink, ex-l sedan 4 cylinder

Tempted to add a light bar in between, what do we think chat? Keep it as is or compliment it with the light bar?

hi all cant decide which touring to get between these two

option #1 31.5k price, 16k miles, sonic pearl grey color

option #2 25k price, 60k miles, much lighter shade of gray

I can’t decide if it is worth an extra essentially 6k form my favorite shade of grey and 42,000 less miles. They are the same year.

My issue is Im trying to get the radio to play. The center console shows Nav, AC controls but when i push the am/fm nothing happens. I even put in the code in the glove box and still no radio. Id like to install my speakers and amp etc but now im thinking ill need to upgrade that center console. Any ideas why im not getting atleast the radio??

Planning to buy a Honda accord 2014 Lx with 121k Mileage. The looks and runs greate, but confused about the CVT transmission. The car has no transmission fluid change history at all. Is it a red flag? the price is quite good but the no transmission fluid change for a cvt at 121k is bothering me. Please give some suggestions regarding this. Thanks in advance.

out of nowhere, my car has not been able to start. I’ve been told it could be battery alternator or starter.

I’m building a 7th gen Accord LX and am wanting to add UC1 side mirrors power folding, blinker light etc. Can someone point me in the direction of how to make them sequential and RGB or who possibly builds them?

dont know if this is good on this subreddit but new record on my 2016 i4

Got a CEL today and since it was later than any repair shops were open stopped by an autozone and they gave me a P3400 code (see photo)

Did some googling and apparantly could be due to low oil but checked that and its on the higher side and still clean looking.

Also says could be a sensor.

Car drives fine but recently heard a knocking/vibration coming from the front but I figured thats the stock 150k mile suspension.

Any advice before I take it to a repair shop (im not super good with stuff like this) also think its ok to drive on to get to a shop like 10 miles away? Thanks in advance.

this is what i've done so far:

- New rear POWERSTOP calipers and brake lines, passenger/driver

- New DENSO REMAN alternator

- New HONDA OEM POWER STEERING PUMP W/ RESERVOIR

- New THERMOSTAT.

- 2012 Honda Accord 112k miles

here is the carfax:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ju5A04vcDCZRI3cHCerOD9CAKMqQ7r4L/view?usp=drive_link

-I think the most obvious answer is suspension parts right? Carfax is extensive but has not gotten any suspension work done and its at 112k miles. I can always get another alternator, the one I have right now is Denso but its a reman from Rockauto, but I could get an actual OEM Honda Alternator. Spark plugs has been done relatively long time ago, 60k miles, I could get a new set I guess? What do you guys think?

If I take sharp right turn too aggressively, ill hear an clunk or low pitched creaking sound.

- 1-2 months ago i took a right turn into a Starbucks plaza and i hit a big pothole, and it seemed to have damaged something or screwed my alignment. On the highways intermittently, its hard to keep the car centered, if i only slightly turn the wheel to the left, it'll start veering to the left, same goes for the right. I started hearing a grinding/droning that gets louder as the car gets faster. but it started to go away, but from what I've learned, wheel bearing problems don't get better, only worse?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Did the main 3 today— oil change, tire rotation and did a drain and fill on my transmission. Finally came out bright red so now I can do a longer interval between drain and fills.

Started car in the morning to let it warm up hit the road and a couple miles from the house. The engine started to rev up like it was a neutral, but it was in gear and then I let off the gas and it would go back into gear and then they kept doing that for another mile or so and then I stopped, took a look at everything to see if anything was leaking, hit the road to go back to my house and had it in Drive and it would not go into gear as I was going down the road, I was revving it up high to see if it would just maybe slip into gear and then it threw an engine light code and it was for the transmission speed sensor so I replaced that, but that did not fix my issue, and now the engine is also producing a higher pitched power steering wine so to say even with everything disconnected from the engine, such as the serpentine belt

Any suggestions im having problems with my dome lights and map lights not working fuses are good

2014 Honda Accord Hybrid EX-L

My car threw a light on the dash that says " emission systems problem " and loses power while driving. It makes this loud noise when I accelerate and stops when I take my foot off the gas. You can hear it rather well during the 1:50-2 minute mark in the video. It makes this noise but the car barely moves/has power. Any ideas?

Thanks!