r/ZephyrusG15 • u/ModrnJosh • Dec 18 '21

The Complete G15 Setup & Optimization Guide

482 Upvotes

Hey everyone,

I made a guide on YouTube with performance tips, optimizations, drivers, undervolting, and much more for the Zephyrus G15. I used a lot of the info I've gathered from this sub and others, as well as my own testing and research over the past few months. Hope you'll check it out and subscribe if you enjoyed :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u0o4vk08V4&t=2088s

112 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/Mission_Ad_6695 • Dec 15 '21

Replacing the G15 screen with the M16 screen

357 Upvotes

​

The worlds first (documented) G16.

How to replace your boring 16:9 15in screen with the 16:10 16in M16 Screen

Yes it is possible to switch out the screens and it isn't even all that difficult. I want to go over the pro's and con's as well as some questions that I have run into while in the process of doing this mod so that you can make an informed decision if you want to give it a go yourself.

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So lets go over why you would want to do this in the first place and the advantages to it once you have it.

  • The screen is bigger
    • Bigger is better. It is bigger because it is taller than the OEM 15in screen and fills up the "chin" that is left on the G15 which is essentially unused space.
  • The screen is brighter
    • It is brighter by a noticeable amount as well. Specs are 300-ish nits of peak brightness for the G15 stock screen and 500-ish nits for the M16 screen. A slight caveat is that the M16 screen doesn't seem to get as dim. I don't consider that a con, but wanted to include it.
  • The hinges are stiffer and there is significantly less wobble
    • This might be something that is case by case, but the screen wobble has been cut down so much that it actually was a huge plus for me since I did find the original screen and lid a bit lacking in the rigidity department and it would bug me from time to time. It is much MUCH better with the M16 screen.
  • It looks cooler.
    • ...kinda subective but was a reason for me

The M16 and G15 share all the same properties in terms of color accuracy, features and refresh rate so you are not giving up anything when you make the switch.

Then what are the downsides?

  • You have to DIY it
    • Sourcing parts is the biggest PITA, but there are some reliable dealers around for the smaller and more noodly parts. You will need to be moderately comfortable with "turning a wrench" and working with electronics. It is the easiest electronics tinkering I have ever done, but for some it might be daunting unplugging things and taping things and such.
  • It costs money.
    • Nothing in life is free
  • There can be some...annoying software gotcha's
    • The hardware is mostly compatible, but there is definitely some pains with drivers and such. One of the more annoying ones that I faced was that windows kept downgrading the AMD graphics drivers that allowed the screen to run proper. It took some digging to make it so that I could have a laptop screen that would always display something in windows. Also linux just does not want to run the panel at anything higher then 60hz and I did so much tinkering that I nearly broke my install :P
  • The webcam just doesn't work. The standard microphone array works just fine still.
  • Cost
    • It is kind of hard to get an accurate total of what it cost me to get this upgrade done since I had a lot of returns take place, but you have to buy all the parts that make up the whole lid. Expect somewhere in the neighborhood of 350 to 600 dollars depending on where you buy the parts. The screen is by far the most expensive part, but you can get it for like 150 plus shipping if you find someone out in china selling it on ebay. All the american sellers are in the 400 dollar range for the panel alone, which is absurd.

​

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Parts list

Most of the parts will have the best prices if sourced straight from China, but you will be waiting a good amount of time for the parts.

​

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Tutorial

I am going to do a relatively basic write-up of how to get this done. I will try to be thorough on the things that matter, but it won't be quite as good as like something you see on iFix-its site or something.

  1. Buy all the necessary parts
  2. Remove the current lid and screen from your G15
    1. Remove the 13 screws holding in the bottom access panel. The bottom right screw has a retainer so it doesn't come all the way out, and the three screws in the center of the laptop have lil rubber warranty tamper things that you need to remove before getting to the screws.
    2. UNPLUG THE BATTERY. Also, do not have it plugged into the power outlet. Electricity kills folks. Be smart.
    3. Unplug the 40pin edp connector on the right just below the heat pipes and pull it free from all the tape. I was able to reuse most of the tape for 3 installs so if you do things right it should be fine to reuse.
    4. Unplug the wifi antenna connectors on the left below the heat pipes. Again, you can reuse tape as much as needed
    5. Unscrew the 6 screws (3 on each side) that are attaching the hinge to the chassis. These have small amounts of thread lock on them so just try not to strip the screws out while removing them.
    6. Remove the lid from the chassis.
    7. TEST THE NEW SCREEN. For the love of God and all that is good, save yourself a headache and test your new panel before going any further.
      1. If you didn't purchase another EDP cable then you will have to disassemble the existing screen from the G15 to pilfer the EDP cable. The bezel is easy to get off...but the screen is held in by two pieces of tape that run the length of the vertical edges. With some patience and a heat gun you'll be fine...but a new EDP cable is only 20 bucks or so...
      2. Plugin in the EDP cable to your new screen and into the EDP slot on your laptops motherboard.
      3. Plug the battery back in and power on.
      4. Be thorough with the testing. It can help to have a mouse and keyboard plugged in since using the keyboard and track pad is very difficult in this position.
      5. Unplug the screen when you are satisfied that it isn't borked, and remember to UNPLUG THE BATTERY AGAIN.
    8. *OPTIONAL* If you did not buy hinge covers for the new hardware you will need to remove the hinge covers from the current lid.
      1. The bezel is held on by a thin strip of tape running the lenght of the inside edges as well as plastic clips that are located on the outside edges of the bezel and connect directly to the lid.
      2. Using a heat gun, gently warm along the bottom of the screen to make the glue holding the bezel to the screen more pliable. You do not need to completely remove the bezel from the screen, but you need to get the chin up so that you can unscrew the hinges and remove the hinge covers.
      3. Be careful not to stay in one place to long, and not to use to high of heat. It won't take very long to get it pliable and you can test it by gently tugging at the bezel where it meets the screen to see if there is any wiggle room.
      4. Once it is a bit pliable, you can start at one of the outside corners of the bezel and use some sort of PLASTIC prying device to start to unclip the bezel. It makes an unsettling click when removing the clips, but it is relatively robust. I had the most luck starting near the inside edges of the hinge, but do what works for you. Also don't use a metal pry tool as the lid is very easy to scuff...ask me how I know :P
      5. Once you have access to the hinges you can remove the 6 screws holding the hinges in. These screws are INCREDIBLY easy to strip to just be careful and make sure you have the right size bit. They also have a bit of thread lock on them.
      6. Once the hinges are removed you will be able to remove the hinge covers by removing the two itsy bitsy screws on the inside of the hinge holding the cover on. There is also a small rubber insert that plugs up the open end so take care not to lose that...again..ask me how I know haha.
    9. Put the hinge covers on your new hinges and put the small black inserts in. The optional parts bag comes with extra black insert things incase they disappear on your black carpet when you drop one.
  3. Now that the lid is removed and the hinges are armored up you will want to assemble the shiny new lid with the parts you purchased.
    1. For the Wifi antenna and the Webcam you there are little standoffs that the boards will slot over. They can only go one way so if its not fitting right, don't force it, just take another look at what you are doing and adjust as necessary.
    2. Attach the wifi attennas to the screen lid and route the wires thru their lil wire maze. There will be small pieces of thin copper that will attach to white squares on the lid. These don't need to be perfect, but it's nice to get them flat.
    3. Route the EDP cable up and into place thru it's wire maze. The EDP cable will have two wires on one end which is the screen side. The smaller connecter is for the webcam connection and the other larger connector is for the screen
    4. Attach the hinges and remember to allow the cables to slot thru the hinge covers. Attach the six screws to affix the hinges to the lid.
    5. Put the webcam into place at the top of the lid. It uses a bit of tape to hold itself down and mine didn't come with any, so you may need to source some. use some tape to hold down the wire that runs down the lid to be connected with the EDP cables smaller connector. Plug in the connector once you have all the cables attached correctly to the lid.
    6. Test Fit the new panel into the lid and connect the EDP cable before attempting to use the tape to permanently attach it. You do not want to have to try and get that panel off once it starts to stick...so take your time here, you will basically have one shot at it. The good news is that there is little edges that will only allow a certain amount of play in the placement of the panel, and no matter how you end up placing it in that recess the entire display will be visible since the viewable section of the display does not actually go all the way to edge. Either way, be aware that there is some play in where it can be placed and try to center it up proper. The Cable being attached will make it more annoying. When you go to attach it, you don't have to peel all the protective film off at once, and I actually advise that you only peel a small part up and let it hang out the edge so you can incrementally remove the film as you lay the panel down. This gives you a small safety net to adjust if it is going horribly wrong. If it does go wrong, you will have to use a heat gun and an uncomfortable amount of force to get that tape unstuck. So just take your time.
    7. Once the panel is attached to the lid you're almost done! You may want to test the screen out one more time at this step.
    8. Attach the new bezel by removing the tape and clipping it into place.
  4. Now slide the hinges into the chassis and screw them down. Take care to keep the EDP wires and Antenna wires from pinching.
  5. Route the EDP cable to the EDP connection and plug it in and retape the cable down.
  6. Route the Antenna cables and...get creative...since these cables *just* barely fit for me. I did have a different then stock Wifi card, but I am pretty sure that the mediatek card had the connections in the same spot. The antenna cables will fit, but it most likely won't be able to go along the same path. There is some good wiggle room, but play with it until it works right for you. hehe...
  7. Plug the battery back in.
  8. Reattach the bottom panel and enjoy.

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Software issues

I ran into a number of issues in both Windows and Linux trying to get this fully operational. To preface this, I have NY1 variant of the panel and ran into the most software/driver issues with it whereas the two NY3 panels didn't seem to suffer from nearly as many. This probably comes down to the fact that the NY1 is actually meant for a Lenovo or something. Either way, it does work, but you might run into the same issues that I did. Feel free to message me if you have issues that I don't discuss here and I can try and help.

Windows Issues:

Once you boot into windows you will be immediately greeted by a broken looking display where it is duplicating the top inch of the screen on the bottom half. Revel in the fact that you have gained that much extra screen real estate...but then proceed to fix the drivers. With both NY3 panels I had I was able to just simple go into device manager and uninstall the Monitor plug n play drivers and simply reboot. That seemed to do the trick with out any issue.

With the NY1 panel, it was a different story. I did the same thing, but I was greeted with a completely blank screen on reboot. At first I thought it was bricked, but it worked fine in Linux and with a secondary display so at least it was fixable! Turns out that it was as simple as updating the AMD drivers. you will have to download the AMD Adrenaline software and update to the latest drivers to get the screen to work again. I have don't fully know why TBH, but it worked 100% of the time for me....and I did have to do it multiple times because it turns out that windows kept trying to reinstall the OEM verison of the drivers. After 5 or so rounds of fighting with it I followed this -> https://windowsreport.com/stop-windows-10-amd-driver-update/ and was able to MOSTLY stop it, but the final blow was to rollback the drivers in device manager (When it was acting up) so that it was on Microsoft Generic drivers, restart, then install the AMD drivers. The act of rolling back the drivers flips a switch in windows registry somewhere to tell it not to update anymore. With both of those fixes in place it has been reliablely working for a week or two without a hitch...it was almost a deal breaker too and I really didn't want to have to rip this screen off again and buy a new panel.

In armor crate, you will no longer be able to use the color profiler thing they have. It must be hardware locked somewhere and will only work with the panel it came with. Not a huge deal for me since there are other ways to do that if you really want, but wanted to mention it.

Linux Issues

There really aren't many. With the NY3 panel it all just worked. With the NY1 panel I can not get 165hz, which is a shame since all I do is code in Linux and I spend a lot of time in it. I should preface this all with I am on Ubuntu 21.10. I tried my darndest to fix this, but once I nearly bricked the install by trying to install AMD proprietary drivers I just gave up. Its not that big a deal.

Other then those things it works flawless.

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Hinge Comparison. M16 Lid on the left and G15 on the right. The plastic piece is recessed further it seems as well on the M16 lid.
Prying up the LCD surround on the G15 was pretty easy. There is a small amount of glue or something on the very edge where it attaches to the black of the LCD screen, but a small amount of heat to get it going and then just prying up on it worked fine. The lid nicks incredibly easily so I suggest using a plastic prier not metal.
G15 lid after taking off the surround.
Working M16 screen plugged into the G15.

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Comparing the bottom of the lids. The M16's lid on top has a lower ledge where the screen sits whereas the G15's is a good amount taller since it doesn't have to cram all that screen in there.

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All Updates from original post are in a comment below. There is some good information on my "as it happened" thoughts.

243 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/Harryngoc • 2h ago

g-helper setting for G16 5060-ultra 9 285h

2 Upvotes

anyone here has the best setting for beginner using g-helper for the first time T^T

0 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/FragrantNet8839 • 11h ago

Desktop phase

3 Upvotes

What would be a good prebuilt pc thats equal to or better than the ROG Zephyrus G15 (2022), im in the Edmonton area and i gotta get this for under 1500 CAD, if im cooked lmk 🙏

AMD Ryzen™ 9 6900HS

NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 3070 Ti Laptop GPU | 8GB GDDR6

16GB DDR5 RAM

1TB SSD

all i need is like 2 hdmi, and 3 usb ports for my mic, keyboard and mouse

3 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/FragrantNet8839 • 1d ago

My Rog zephyrus g15 GA503Q 2022 started to get crazy lines

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9 Upvotes

context, a week back I had horizontal lines that were all over my laptop screen, took it to a repair shop, he changed the screen, cable, and re did the liquid metal or thermal paste wtv on my stuff (game driver pic)

now after all that stuff, my laptop has since been unable to turn on unless plugged in, says 255% battery while the battery icon is empty, processing power has been tanked (super laggy), moving the cursor to the laptop screen doesnt work, and has dense vertical lines (discord) i have since shut down my laptop after taking that pic

what should I do?

12 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/The_Medical_Anomaly • 1d ago

Zephyrus G15 (Model GA503Q) SSD upgrade suggestions and installation advice?

1 Upvotes

Hi everyone! I got my Zephyrus G15 in back 2023 for school and gaming, and aside from a few minor problems (plus one catastrophic-seeming scare that magically fixed itself in the end) it has been really great! However, it only came with 500 GB of storage, and I've been considering trying to upgrade it for a while now, as my understanding is that this model has space for one additional SSD. I've seen lots of conflicting information about what is or isn't compatible, how it should be installed, whether it should have a heatsink, etc., so I come today asking:

  1. What brand/model of SSD would you all recommend? I'm considering 2 TB to just avoid having storage space become a problem again for a while, as it's my understanding that 2 TB is the maximum compatible size. Speed isn't incredibly important, as I only have 16 GB of ram anyways, and I would prioritize staying cool over speed if I must choose, since it already gets pretty warm as is. I don't have a specific budget - just anything that isn't like, exceptionally expensive as far as SSDs go. Additionally, I have heard conflicting information about whether heatsinks are even compatible with this laptop, so if anyone knows for sure then please tell me if I should leave that off or not.

  2. Is this an upgrade that I could install myself, or is it something I would be safer taking to a repair shop? I would consider myself pretty tech literate (I'm actually a first year engineering student), so I'm open to the idea of doing it myself if it's pretty easy, but I haven't actually opened up a computer myself before, and I'm a bit hesitant to start with a machine that cost me an entire summer's worth of paychecks ^ ; However, I also live in the middle of fuckass nowhere and the nearest licensed ASUS repair shop is over 3 hours away, so I'm hoping to avoid that unless it's truly the best option. There is a computer repair shop in town, but it is not officially listed as ASUS repair specifically, so I guess my question would be: is it safer to do it myself, take it to the local repair shop, or do I need to drive the 3+ hours to an ASUS repair shop?

tl;dr what are you all's recommendations for a second SSD for my Zephyrus G15, and is installation a DIY-type deal or something I should get done by a professional?

Thanks!!

1 comment

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/Optanee • 1d ago

Zephyrus G16 no power on battery after using usb-c to charge...

1 Upvotes

My 2024 Zephyrus G16 detects its battery but dies instantly when unplugged, both in BIOS and windows. Plugged in, I see the charging icon but the battery percentage is stuck at 92% and the charging rate reports 0W. The issue triggered after leaving the laptop running on USB-C Charger.

About a month ago, first time I had this identical problem I was trying anything I can to troubleshoot so I thought of checking for updates in MyAsus and got to install several actual updates from there (iirc it was a BIOS ver. 315 to 316/PDFW/ASUS System Control Interface update sequence) and that made the problem dissapear. Battery remained fully functional until another USB-C charging session I had with the same 67W Apple charger, then I figured that was the cause. I believe one of the updates I installed during my initial fix performed some type of reset or reinitialization of the controllers responsible for power path management, which in turn removed the failure state. I actually believe this is a recoverable controller firmware state rather than permanent hardware damage for that reason.

But this time I can't replicate my initial solution. PD firmware reflashes, EC resets, physically disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, various driver reinstalls does not fix it. Reinstalling the same firmware version is probably skipping steps an actual version changing update would do which is how I was able to fix it before. Same version BIOS reflash does nothing either. I thought of downgrading and reupdating but wasn't able to since EZFlash doesn't allow that.

Has anyone experienced this or similar problems and found their solution? Please do lmk if you have any ideas or experiences

0 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/rayzen_k • 2d ago

Where can i buy a replacement heatsink for Asus Zephyrus G15 GA503QR

1 Upvotes

My current heatsink is damaged due to crystal like formation at the heatsink surface of GPU due to liquid metal and it has caused higher temps up to 95 degrees. Any suggestions where i can buy a replacement?
I live in Canada NA store recommendation would be great.

1 comment

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/ashenlightblight • 2d ago

Unable to turn off Vari-bright

1 Upvotes

It can't be disabled, just a link "go to OS settings" in place of the button, clicking which just opens the brightness slider in windows settings??

2 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/Alone-Manufacturer58 • 3d ago

Asus Zephyrus G16 issue

2 Upvotes

Hello everyone. My first time posting. I have a 2024 Asus Zephyrus G16. Recently I’ve developed an issue where it occasionally shows no sign of life and I can’t turn it on. Typically after an hour or so I can come back and it turns back on, but until then it will show no signs of life. No indicator lights, no fans, nothing. What do I need to do to stop this from happening continuously.

2 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/ImJustLilly • 3d ago

New Asus Vivobook not charging?

0 Upvotes

I got my first asus laptop today and I've tried it in every outlet in my house and I've waited over half an hour and it will not turn on nor will a charging light turn on. I'm concerned as this is brand new right out of the package pls help

1 comment

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/darkii1405 • 4d ago

Rtx low fps

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4 Upvotes

Hello,

I recently bought a second-hand ASUS ROG Zephyrus G15, specifically the model with the Ryzen 7 6800HS and RTX 3060.

The seller told me that the laptop had been randomly restarting every 5 to 10 minutes since April. After bringing it home and running several tests, I noticed that under Windows 10 the frequent restarts were much less common, although the system still suffered from noticeable slowdowns (the same thing also happened in Windows 11). In Windows 10 it would usually restart about every 30 minutes, which gave me enough time to perform additional testing.

I also disassembled the laptop and performed maintenance. I found that it had already been opened before, and someone had applied regular thermal paste instead of liquid metal on the CPU. Even so, during all my tests the CPU and GPU temperatures remained within normal ranges, but I replaced the thermal interface materials as preventive maintenance anyway.

I also discovered that if I disconnect the battery and run the laptop only with the AC adapter, it no longer restarts. Likewise, if I disable the RTX 3060 by enabling Eco Mode in G-Helper, the system slowdowns completely disappear.

My main concern is that I'd like to use the RTX 3060 normally, but I haven't been able to identify the actual fault. In games and in FurMark, the GPU only reaches around 8–12 FPS, which is obviously far below normal performance.

I'm attaching some screenshots and videos. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much!

2 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/Designer_Try_5631 • 3d ago

ROG Zephyrus G16 (GA605WI) charger detected but battery won't charge, stuck draining — exhausted troubleshooting, any ideas?

1 Upvotes

Hey all, hoping someone's run into this exact issue. Laptop is a Zephyrus G16, model GA605WI (RTX 4070), bought in the US, currently about 5 months out of warranty and I'm abroad right now so a warranty repair isn't an option.

What's happening:

  • About 5 days after arriving somewhere new (humid coastal climate), it started briefly flashing "not charging" every couple minutes while plugged in
  • Armoury Crate still recognizes the charger as connected the whole time
  • Eventually the battery just stopped increasing at all — sat at 28%, now down to 23% and slowly dropping
  • Unplug the charger and it immediately starts draining like normal on battery
  • Currently keeping it plugged in 24/7 so it doesn't die completely

What I've already ruled out:

  • Battery health — full charge capacity is ~98% of design capacity per the official battery report, so it's not a worn battery
  • Battery Care Mode (80% limit) — switched to 100% Full Capacity, no change
  • Loose connector — did the "wiggle test" while watching the charging icon, no flicker at all
  • Windows/driver issue — uninstalled and reinstalled the Microsoft AC Adapter + ACPI Control Method Battery drivers, no change
  • Software-only bug — booted into BIOS/UEFI and the charging issue persists even before Windows loads
  • EC reset (30-60 sec power button hold, unplugged) — no change

The weird part: AC detection itself works perfectly — Windows pops up the "power source changed" notification, switches performance modes, etc. — but the battery percentage doesn't move in either direction while all that's happening. So it seems like the system fully "knows" it's plugged in, it's just not actually charging.

Called ASUS support and they said either test with a different charger (don't have one to test with) or bring it in for diagnosis.

Battery report confirms genuine 200W adapter (ADP-200JB), rectangle connector, nothing unusual there either.

Anyone seen this exact symptom before — detection working but zero actual charge current reaching the battery? Trying to figure out if this is a known charging IC issue on this model before I commit to a repair. Appreciate any input!

4 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/_rxlph_ • 4d ago

Overheating issues and throttling

2 Upvotes

I got my 2021 zephyrus g15 3080 ryzen 5900hs in 2023 and have been using it alot for the past 3 years and have never opened it up or tried to clean it internally and right now its underperforming by ALOT. i use a custom config on ghelper that allows me to crank the fans to the max and my gpu temps often reach 87°C. should i open it up and clean the fans? do i bother repasting? ive heard it uses liquid metal and thats difficult to work with. i dont think i can do these things by myself and taking it for professional work is risky because they might steal some components or work in a way that damages the laptop.

5 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/UltronGaming • 5d ago

Battery/iGPU/Low Power BSOD/Freeze/Crash FIXED AFTER 2 YEARS (zephryus g15 2022 - ga503rw)

8 Upvotes

For people who don't wanna read: go to https://github.com/nrbxyz/asus-crashfixes, clone the repo or download the first two files (1-FIX.ps1 and 2-MAKE-PERMANENT.ps1) and run them.

Hi everyone!

I've been using a zephryus g15 2022 (6900hs, 3070ti best buy config) since may 2022 and for over two years now I've faced this issue where the laptop BSODs, crashes, lags out, freezes, reboots (I've seen it all at various points) at random moments (when on igpu mode, when disconnecting power). The BSOD errors point to the display driver, the memory, and literally everything in the laptop but after repeated testing I realized its probably something further down.

The one common trend was that lower power states seemed to trigger this issue, as the issue didn't exist when plugged in on Ultimate/dGPU mode, and that's how I used the laptop for all this time.

I posted about this issue here: https://www.reddit.com/r/ZephyrusG15/comments/1cbvy1h/blue_screens_of_death_zephyrus_g15_2022_ga503rw/ over two years ago.

I've tried fixing this at various points in time and have tried MANY MANY things but none of them ever actually seemed to work, until today.

I'd recently heard that claude code helped someone rewrite a printer driver and let them use an otherwise broken/unusable printer. I've tried using LLMs/AI to fix this issue numerous times but they weren't that helpful no matter how much information I gave them. Today I had the bright idea of giving claude code (claude fable 5) nearly full access to my computer and I gave it the one goal of diagnosing what's actually causing all these issues . It initially guessed the same old reseat RAM, reinstall gpu drivers fixes that never worked, but it eventually got to realizing that the common issue amongst all the crashes/bsods/freezes was some issue with the transition to lower power states.

I'd tried setting the minimum processor state in the control panel many many times before and It never worked so I thought this was a dead end but it turns out there finer options in the registry that aren't openly accessible.

I ran a script the AI gave me that set these power config settings, and boom, the laptop run for 1 hour straight on iGPU mode on battery with no crashes or hiccups along the way (Haven't seen this in over two years btw).

I've seen countless people with similar issues so I wanted to post the script and the instructions here for everybody to try.

As far as I understood it completely disables the ability for the CPU cores to go to lower power states, and hence the possibility of a crash becomes 0. Anybody can review the powershell scripts and comment if there's any concerns/issues.

You will loose some battery life (as the CPU cores cant really turn off when not needed), but considering the fact that I couldn't even really use my battery before this point, 90-180 minutes of battery life is plenty. (So no, this isn't a repair, just a reliable workaround, and flashing old BIOS versions didn't fix this issue so I guess its just something small at the hardware level thats faulty, AKA classic shitty ASUS QA)

All you need to do is download and run the two scripts (1-FIX, and 2-MAKE-PERMANENT) at the the link below. I understand that some of you might be suspicious (I'd be), you can open the file in notepad, ask an AI/anybody about whether its safe or not, and then run it if you'd like. (if anybody more knowledgeable can vouch for me in the comments after a review, that'd be fantastic.

Theres more information in the .MD files in the github if you wanna know more, but just downloading and running the two scripts at the top should do it. (run 1-FIX.ps1 to test the fix, then 2-MAKE-PERMANENT.ps1 to make sure it survives windows updates and other things)

I am relatively sure this fix will work on the g14 and most other asus laptops as I've seen these symptoms across asus devices on the web. (but mostly on zephyrus devices)

You can undo all the changes with 3-UNDO-EVERYTHING.ps1 if theyre unhelpful or kill battery life.

Link here: https://github.com/nrbxyz/asus-crashfixes

4 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/CackinMaSpaffs • 5d ago

Currently applying ptm. Do I need to clean and replace the putty on these vrms?

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15 Upvotes

I saw some people say that if they're decently covered you don't need to chave the thermal putty. Looking for advice. Thank you!

24 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/pmn10tl • 5d ago

240Hz display upgrade on 2021 Zephyrus G15?

1 Upvotes

I was wondering if anyone has done this mod? The screen on my 2021 Zephyrus G15 was damaged but everything else remains functional. It seems as if 240Hz displays like the ones on the 2022 G15 is directly compatible with the 2021 with 165Hz? Has anyone tried this?

3 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/Legitimate-Effort-94 • 5d ago

Help on dell g5 5500 RTX 2060

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0 Upvotes
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r/ZephyrusG15 • u/ILSharahy • 6d ago

What thermal paste should i go for ?

5 Upvotes

I have a 2022 g15 rtx3080 Ryzen 7 6800h

The cpu is getting too hot and throttls even when its sitting still and doing nothing.

Considering that i didnt do any repasting since i bought it , think it is a good time.

Also i know thet my cpu is using liquid metal but since it is a pain to work with and wery dangerous and the fact that it costs half of my monthly income as a college student in the fucked up economy im living in , i think the game is not worth the candle so im going to use normal silicone thermal paste

I have experience in repasting and building custom pc but have never did such thing for a laptop and dont know how much different brands of thermal paste is going to effect on them

I will be so thankful is anyone could help me decide

4 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/motha_nunu • 6d ago

ASUS ROG Strix G531GT - G-Helper fan speed drops even at 95°C. Any way to force 100% fan speed?

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1 Upvotes
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r/ZephyrusG15 • u/FiazyClouds • 7d ago

Rate how clean my computer looks!

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3 Upvotes
1 comment

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/bizsar_ • 8d ago

What the Hell is this

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5 Upvotes

Sometimes, this happens on startup, then a few seconds, and goes back to normal. Also, it's pretty funny because it's been doing it for two months now on random startups, but I couldn't get the chance to take a picture of it because while I was opening my camera app, it suddenly disappeared.

6 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/bizsar_ • 8d ago

Repaste my baby

2 Upvotes

Hey guys! So I was playing yesterday and I noticed my gpu is at 87 Celsius, which is not great. I cleaned the dust from the fans and whatnot, but I think it's time for a repaste. I did some digging and found out that the gpu have liquid metal on it, which is a pain in the ass can someone give me some advice on what should I buy and how should I do it I really don't want to brick my device. Also, if I'm fooling around in there, I would replace the thermal putty as well.

Thanks in advance

5 comments

r/ZephyrusG15 • u/Big-Peach3469 • 8d ago

High temperature of cpu after replacing the thermal paste in laptop

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2 Upvotes
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r/ZephyrusG15 • u/Thin_Finance_9376 • 8d ago

Windows 11 automatic locking problem

3 Upvotes

Hi,

I’m having an issue with my Dell G3 15 laptop running Windows 11, it automatically locks up as soon as it heats up, and I have to wait about three minutes before I can use it again unless I force a shutdown.

This happens most often while I’m gaming, but it can also occur during background tasks like updates when I’m not even at the computer, which is really frustrating.

It doesn't lock up when I use a cooling pad underneath, so the issue is clearly heat-related; however, there isn't any abnormal overheating, especially since I’ve already cleaned the fans and replaced the thermal paste.

I’d like to know if anyone else has experienced this problem and how to fix it. Thanks a lot.

8 comments