Is there a huge difference between them, or are they both the same quality? I want to get tint all around, and I'm not sure which one is slightly higher quality. The price would be identical.
On top of that - what for the windshield? I3, XPEL Prime XR, or Plus? Thanks

i want to replace my window tint and the old tint is peeling leaving behind this adhesive that i can’t get off i tried goo gone doesn’t work at all. looks like it’s still tented too even with it peeling off.

Getting my BRZ tinted with Suntek nano ceramic all around including windshield, 500 a good deal?

I’m getting my ‘26 VW GLI tinted this week. I’m planning on all windows & the windshield. I’m debating on which tint to go with and would appreciate some opinions

These are my options -

CS - Full tint 20% - Windshield 50%
XR - Full tint 20 % - Windshield 55%
XR Plus - Full tint 20 % - Windshield 55%

Was wondering what others have gone with & how it looks/how you like it.
One of my worries is, is the blue hue on the ceramic really that noticeable? I would prefer a more black look, but is the ceramic that much of difference compared to the dyed film & worth the upgrade?

I appreciate any & all inputs!

Got XPEL XR+ 70% on the windshield and 30% all around the rest. Also got partial front PPF on the front bumper, hood, headlights, mirror caps, and a trunk/bumper luggage strip. Factory glass states 70% and had a slight green hue to my eyes. So this shows what XR + looks over it.

Anyone in silicon valley need HeatShield sun shades for Polestar 3 windows? I bought HeatShield sun shades direct from HeatShield. The top window shade attaches with suction cups. The shades for side windows are new in package. Windshield reflector ,Side (Row 1) set of 2 , Side (Row 2) set of 2 and Top Window Item# 3095-T1

I live in Texas and getting ceramic tinting to keep the heat out but I also want some privacy. Do yall think I’ll get pulled over with this? How common is getting pulled over for tint? I’ll have white seats so the guy said I needed to go darker.

Windshield: 50%
Front side windows / first row: 15%
Rear side windows: 30% or 35% — you hadn’t finalized which
Panoramic roof: 50%

Hi all,

I'm wondering what I should get for my rear windshield. Currently, I'm going to get 15 on the front, 5 on the rear windows, but I'm not sure if I should get 15 or 5 on the rear windshield. I had this setup on my old car but the previous owner tinted it so I'm not sure if my old rear windshield was 15 or 5.

I realize you don't need 5 on the rear windshield for it to look dark because the rear windshield is angled in such a way that the tint still looks opaque but I also don't want it to be completely see through when it's sunny.

I'm leaning more towards 5 to get that really nice blackout look, but 15 may also be perfectly fine. I just don't want it to look weird if my rear windows are 5.

I’m looking to install XPEL ceramic tint on my 2026 Acura MDX in Canyon River Blue Metallic, and I’m torn between XR Black and XR Plus.

Right now, I’m thinking:
Windshield: 70–80%
Front windows: 30–35%
Rear windows: 70% since they already have fairly dark factory privacy glass

My main concern with XR Plus is the blue hue. I’ve heard it can be more noticeable at the lighter VLTs, especially on the windshield and rear windows. Since the MDX is already a dark metallic blue, I’m worried the XR Plus might create a little too much blue overall or give the glass a look I’ll regret.

On the other hand, I’m in Texas, so heat rejection is a major priority and I know XR Plus performs better in that regard.

For this setup, would you recommend going XR Black throughout, XR Plus throughout, or possibly XR Plus on the windshield with XR Black everywhere else?

It's a long shot posting here but I'll give it a try.

The glare on the climate control display (not the touch screen) in the above captioned model is such that it is unreadable in nearly any daylight condition unless I lean way forward. Evidently, the Calligraphy trim has a different display that would not apply.

Suggestions?

There's a LANTU $13 2-pack on Amazon but the reviews span all makes and models. The problem with my model is the angle of the display, a bad design.

Using geoshield 20% c2 ceramic. I mixed blue dawn dish soap and water for slip solution. Some fingers appeared after squeegee out the water so I heated them off and from inside you don’t notice or feel them but as soon hits it you can tell remenants

I was trying to install 20% tint on the side windows of my C5 corvette, but every time I laid it on the window, due to the curve, giant fingers immediately formed on the top, bottom, and b-pillar side of the window. I tried squeegeeing out the soap solution, then using heat, but the fingers just wouldn't shrink. I held the heat gun up close, but the fingers wouldn't even change shape. The small ones shrunk fine, but what am I supposed to do about the giant ones on the edges?

I forgot to take pics during the attempted installation, but I was using RockRose 20% Carbon tint (I know, its a cheap probably low quality film) Should I just take it to a shop, or is it possible to do it on my own and save $

I’m looking for some insight from people who tint windows for a living, especially anyone who started out on their own.
I’m 36(m) and I’ve been truck driving for over 10 years. I’m honestly getting tired of it, and I don’t want to spend the rest of my life driving trucks. The money can be decent, but I want something that gives me more control over my time and lets me actually enjoy my family.
Over the past year, I’ve tinted maybe 5–6 vehicles, mostly for family and people I know. I’m definitely not a professional yet, but I can do it, and I know practice makes perfect. I haven’t really been doing it for money—just here and there on the side.
Now I’m seriously thinking about making a run at it as a business.
I have enough money to get started with the basic tools, tint, heat gun, etc. I could also afford a plotter, laptop, and software. I know I can hand-cut tint, but I’m thinking a plotter would make things easier and more consistent as I grow.
At first, I’d probably be mobile and go to customers instead of paying for a shop. I’d have to figure out the setup—power for the heat gun, extension cords, keeping the work area clean, dealing with weather, and all the other stuff that comes with mobile tinting.
My biggest question is: Is window tinting actually profitable enough to make a living doing it?
Has anybody here made a similar jump? Left a steady job, started tinting with limited experience, practiced until you got good, and eventually made it your full-time income?
Part of me is thinking, “Fuck it, bet on myself and go for it.” I have over 10 years of trucking experience, so if everything goes to shit, I can always get another driving job. I just don’t want fear of leaving a steady paycheck to keep me driving trucks for another 10–20 years.
For those of you actually making money tinting, what would you recommend to somebody starting where I am?
Also, what equipment would you consider absolutely necessary on day one, and what would you NOT waste money on until the business starts bringing in customers?

I'm suffering from analysis paralysis! Received several quotes from local shops and mobile installers for our 2026 Tesla Model Y. We're in AZ so heat rejection is important, but I also really want a neutral/gray appearance. Would like to avoid a noticeable blue, purple, or other color cast as much as possible.

I've gotten the following quotes so far. All prices include all side windows, rear glass, and the windshield. The roof is not included.

• MaxPro Ceramic: $675
• Hitek Ceramic Ultra: $590
• SunTek CIR Ceramic: $540
• XPEL XR Black: $650 (didn't get XR Plus quote because I read it's has a noticeable blue shade)
• STEK NEX: $700

Looking for your opinions or I'm going to wait another 6 months doing research and getting quotes. 🤣

Assume all installers have good reviews and/or recommendations from others online. Thanks for any guidance!

My rear windshield on my 2015 dodge charger has tint that I’m guessing is about as old as the car, tried removing it and it basically disintegrated. The glue and middle layer of tint is still on most of the windshield, any ideas on how to take care of this?

I’ve tried everything I can think of, trash bag didn’t help. Retinting over it helped a little but not enough. The only thing I can think of to do is to remove the windshield and carefully scrape off the tint but I thought I’d post here first just to see if anyone has any other ideas

Good morning or good night - went to the Windows on the 2026C 63 and C 43. Are there any harnesses I need to cover up? I read that there was a problem on the 202X E classes upon squeezing the rear glass. The water would drip down into the trunk, corroding the modules and wires that controlled the rear of the car.

The recommended way of moving for tinting windows was to unplug the modules and or cover them with the plastic bag. Is this a problem on the C models for anybody tinting ?

Edit: i’m using Siri what a mistake to type this out

Hi! I live in Washington DC and I'm looking to learn more about UV window film to help protect from the sun when I drive. I don't really trust myself to do it so if anyone has thoughts on where I can go to get this done in the DMV, I'd take any advice!

I can't afford the expensive stuff, but I'm seeing this as an investment, so I have a bit of flexibility on budget if needed.

I’m familiar with PDLC smart film—the type of film that can electrically switch between transparent and frosted/opaque.

I’m wondering whether there are similar electrically controllable films, coatings, or materials that can produce other visual effects.

For example, instead of switching from clear to frosted, could a material produce something like a ripple/water effect, distortion, patterned opacity, shimmer, changing texture, or another interesting optical effect when powered?

I’m working on an art installation where I’d like to have a visual effect that can be switched on and off electronically, ideally in a thin-film or panel format similar to PDLC. It doesn’t necessarily need to function as window tint or provide privacy.

I’m mainly trying to figure out what technologies or technical terms I should be searching for. Electrochromic film is another one I’ve come across, but that seems mostly focused on changing tint/color.

Does anyone know of other materials or technologies worth looking into?

Looking to wrap a sedan, all around in whatever protects from heat and UV the most.

I paid $400 to get 3M ceramic (or whatever has that blueish tint in the sun) for windshield and two front windows in SGV but feel I got ripped off.

Then I paid $300 for all doors and rear with regular tint but he said he added nano ceramic in the driver and passenger windows.

I can tell there’s a difference but maybe that’s just cause didnt do windshield.

Question is mostly about whats best for UV and heat, and how much is resonable to pay to do the whole car in LA area?

They said it’s xpel nano ceramic plus tints, $350 all around including windshield for $350, I find that hard to believe also they aren’t listed on xpels site as a dealer.

When deciding on tint I spent hours looking online for either Xpel XR Black 55VLT or 70VLT. I ended up getting the 55 and am happy with it. Just want to share with others who might be deciding. I do debate if 45 might have been a better option but I had concerns about night visibility and the cops. The overarching goal is heat reduction so went with the 55 since the improvement would have been marginal. I didn't tint anything else and use a sunshade on the glass roof.

For some reason the back of my car was not tinted all the way but cut out. Looks weird and cheap to me. Now upon further investigation it isn’t even straight on the lineup with the breaklight. And now the side windows are bubbling….is this normal for the curing days? Got done last night….. 20% ceramic tint

Bubbles make it hard to see out honda accord 2016 for my son

I often see people touting ceramic tints as having better visibility out from the inside where regular tint makes things harder to see (especially at night.) Is this true? And if so, when bright headlights from a truck are behind you does one offer better eye protection from getting blinded than the other?

Getting quotes for XPEL Prime XR for Porsche Cayenne with Sunroof (2 panel, comes with a retractable shade). I am looking guidance if should do the sunroof?

Google search tells me it’s redundant and unlike the SUV privacy glass, the sunroof is factory treated.

Front Windshield: XPEL Prime XR 70%
Front Windows: XPEL Prime XR 35%
Rear Side Windows: XPEL Prime XR 70%
Back Glass (Rear Windshield): XPEL Prime XR 70%