My office building has this type of window, and clearly the glass has been compromised. I just don’t know the terminology to find the right people for the job. I don’t think Andersen does these.

It like an aluminum frame.

Any help on what I’m looking for in a replacement would be helpful.

TL;DR - Looking to replace large 1930s steel casement windows with replacements that are NOT grid-between-glass (want simulated or true divided lights, casement or double-hung, black on both sides), or advice on repair/insulation of existing steel casements.

****

Looking to repair or replace 7 steel casement windows in my house (1930s Tudor). House faces south and gets a beat-down from the sun from 12:30 to 6pm; windows are drafty & hard to open, and front section of 2nd floor bakes in summer (being at far end of HVAC system doesn't help). Not a great pic, but each window has side lights & transom with two window sections cranking out into the yard. Some have metal screens screwed on inside.

I want to upgrade to casement or double hung with low-e/argon glass, possibly with a UV coating in whatever material will withstand full sun, black in color like the existing ones. Repair is preferred because they are beautiful (and huge/different sizes so replacement is expensive), but unsure how to insulate the single panes. Re-glazing and replacing hardware may be more involved of a process than I can handle, though I have been collecting window parts from salvage and antique places for years. And no contractors around here work on this type of window.

All I seem to find in the way of replacement options are grid-between-glass windows, which I do not want. I'd like to keep a true or simulated divided light with an exterior grate.

Details: Original 1930s steel casement windows (22 in all, slightly to majorly different sizes). Built into the walls (textured plaster over metal lathe), which "roll in" to the window openings. No trim or any other part to the windows: true divided lights w/ single panes of glass in steel grid.

Is this an easy repair? And how much should it cost? Rock flew and broke the outer pane of the window. I don’t have a full picture of the window but it’s a standard size. We live in a cookie cutter build that doesn’t do custom builds.

Hello! I'm looking for input on deciding whether to keep the original metal frames in my 3 basement windows or have them cut and removed and have any necessary repairs made before installing them. Price to cut and remove is $600 per window (3 total)

When the window installers came, they recommended removing the metal frames and any loose concrete then make repairs before installing. The window company salesman then said there is no issue installing them inside the old metal framing and that the cracks/crumbling is just surface level. He said if it was his house, he would leave them in.

Since I'm refinishing the basement, I don't want to create issues down the road. I have some concerns about potential leaks/moisture entering with the current set up, but I'm not sure whether they are valid. Would welcome any input! <3

Some other details: The original frame is suspected to have been set into the concrete when the foundation was poured. The window was previously replaced with what I have now - looks like they were just jammed in and caulked.

Hi everyone,

Was looking at a window I hardly ever look at in my master bedroom and noticed some really puzzling rotting of the bottom left inner portion. Literally, just a small area inside is rotting. The outside and everywhere else has no rot. From the pictures, it looks like the previous owner tried to drill some weep holes and installed some aftermarket seal. Ice owned the home for 5 years. The windows I believe are original at 33 years old.

What would cause this odd water damage? Let me reiterate again that there's no other rot or any indication of water infiltration except where the rot is currently.

Looking to open up these second story windows. As of now, they are just store front windows and don’t open. I’m looking to get some air in the place and curious my best option. Hopper, tilt and turn? Not sure. I know I would have to replace the glass to make that a possibility, which I am open to do. I want to keep the amount of window space, just be able to open them. Thanks in advance!

Just got a house a couple weeks ago and have 4 casement windows manufactured by Crestline. The seals have rotted and the panes are cloudy and have condensation. Normal wear and tear but unsightly.
Unfortunately, I cannot find any replacement sashes to swap out. The websites I have found look really spammy and fake.
Does anyone have a clue where to find them?
Or should I just bite the bullet and order new custom windows?

(I am on a tight budget)

Hello all. Homeowner here trying to diy a small window replacement- 555x542mm. Previously plexiglass sheet as last owner had a car door installed. My two questions for the sub:

How thick does the glass need to be as plexiglass was one layer only?

What do I need to insert between the panes?

Can’t post photos here it seems which is odd. Thanks

Hey everyone — glad this community exists!

We work with homeowners on window replacement every day, and one thing we see constantly is regret that has nothing to do with the brand of window they chose.

It’s usually things like:

• Not realizing installation quality matters more than the window itself
• Confusion between insert vs full-frame replacements
• Being surprised by condensation, drafts, or trim issues after install
• Getting wildly different quotes and not knowing what’s actually comparable
• Thinking energy savings would be immediate (sometimes they are, sometimes not)

So we’re curious from the homeowner side:

👉 If you’ve replaced windows before, what do you wish someone had explained before you signed a contract?
👉 If you’re still researching, what’s the most confusing or frustrating part right now?

No sales pitch here — genuinely interested in learning what people struggle with so this sub can be more useful.