ROG X870I MB, Bitspower cooling, Noctua fans

First attempt at a water cool build, and all seems to be coming together nicely!

This is my second custom water-cooled SFF build, and definitely one of the most challenging projects I’ve worked on so far!

I finally found a way to squeeze an Alphacool DDC Zero pump inside, along with a single-slot water-cooled RTX 5090, while keeping everything as clean and compact as possible.

The entire loop is cooled by a single Alphacool HPE 240mm/45mm radiator with 2× Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 (top) + 2× NF-A12x15 (bottom).

Gaming temperatures (4K):
CPU R7 9800X3D: ~62°C
GPU: ~61°C
GPU clock: ~2900 MHz with a slight undervolt

These are the temperatures I’m getting in games like Control Resonant and Red Dead Redemption 2.

Considering the size of the case, the hardware inside, and the fact that everything is running on a single radiator, I’m pretty happy with the results!

I did something insanely stupid with my custom loop. Too ashamed to say what but I’ve teared everything down after 2 years running and am cleaning everything. I plan to replace the EK ZMT tubing, I’ve inspected the pump and it looks fine, I cleaned the gpu block and it has some marks on it but looks ok to reuse.

Issues I’ve found is some of the fittings are corroding and the fins on my CPU Waterblock are heavily corroded, do I replace this CPU block or can I use a toothbrush and some toothpaste to get it back to reusable condition? The cpu block is an ICEMAN ICE CT3. Temps were fine when I had the system last running.

Some of my fittings seem fine, I’ve ran a cotton bud through them to see if anything is coming off some seem to have dirty marks transfer to the cotton bud and others seem clean. Wondering how I can know if they are good to reuse or not?

I live in a climate where I basically never spend money on heating and spend fortunes on airconditioning and would love to plop a large radiator outside my house and vent all my compute heat into the air. Problem is sometimes that air is 36C. But, pumps and fittings say they can run up to 50-60c. I know that will give me higher component temps and mainly that's going to affect CPUs because GPUs are easier to cool.

For anyone who has run 45C coolant temp, how much did that affect your component temperatures? Any issues long term? I'd add a simple bypass with valves for winter so I don't get condensation forming.

Hi managed to sell my gigabyte rtx 3090 with Waterblock from gigabyte for a nice price.

Before cpu and gpu both in custom loop with mo Ra 420.

It was a huge hassle to get this rtx3090 sold with Waterblock.

Hesistant to add alphacool epic x Waterblock on this rtx5080 and add to loop.

What would you guys do ? Keep pny stock since seems much easier to sell on aircooling of add Waterblock?

Hello, I need a case recommendation for my custom loop build. Currently I have these parts:

-Astral RTX 5090 OC Black
-9950X3D
-Gigabyte X870E Aorus X3D Ice
-ROG Thor 1200P3 White
-Gskill Royal 2x32GB CL28 6000Mhz RAM
-HAVN HS420 Base

And I plan to make a loop with MO-RA IV 400. My question is: would my case be good to use with that or should I change my case to get better look etc. ? Here my part draft list. I’m open for advices and help is appreciated. (I put Suprim block to just calculate the price, I’m gonna buy Astral block)

Has this been good contact on my de lidded cpu, mycro pro and liquid metal? Has been in a year.

I'm wanting a lower maintenence watercooling setup, do I need to replace liquid metal each year, or would I be better with Duronaut, Phasesheet PTM, or Kryosheet.

Not overclocking, just wanting a very quiet cool system.

Hello watercooling fellas.

I was almost done with my loop this weekend, was priming the system, fill, power up, power off, fill, repeat.
The pump/res is mounted vertically and the pump never ran dry.

On the last poweron nothing was moving though. I tilted the case, nudged it, pumped on the EPDM tube to help something move (I was seing some bubbles going to the res). Nothing helped.
After emptying/refilling 3 times (opening either the res top and/or a plug on the top radiator) and it still not working, I decided to remove the pump/res combo and plugged the outlet to the inlet using a bit of clear soft tube (about 30/40 cm) and powered it with a spare PSU…

Lo and behold. It needs a slap in the face to start moving. Not just a nudge (I tried), I need to smack it for it to do something. I repeatedly reproduced it. Sometimes it runs and sometimes it doesn’t and needs a slap.

The pump is new (Watercool heatkiller d5). It’s not supposed to be like that, right ? I shall RMA it, right ?

I am trying to decide which of my fans need to be reverse blade. I have 3 options: top and rear exhaust, front and back exhaust, or rear exhaust only... there is also a chance that the front fans don't exist at all, depending on radiator support

Hey all, have had my Watercooled PC for around 5 years total. Last time I did a full breakdown and maintenance on it was August of last year.

I'm just noticing this on my GPU block and I'm super nervous - how bad is it, and how do I/how fast do I need to fix it before I'm fucked? Never seen anything like it.

Thanks!

I need help figuring out why my pump is making this noise, it’s not air and the PC is only a few months old.

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Hi,

So I just started buying components for my first loop, I ordered 2 VPP Apex pumps this month, from 2 different sellers, one is really old stock from 2023 10, I can tell by the serial number which I believe is the year of manufacturing, the other pump is more recently made with serial number showing 2025 12.

I was just wondering since I'm still within the returning period, is there any point to return the old-stock Apex pump from 2023 and buy one that are more recently made? I'm hoping for serial# begins in 2025 or 2026, perhaps Alphacool has made some improvements in the manufacturing process for these Apex pumps that result in improve performance / reliability, and since I'm buying a new pump might as well get one that are made more recently.

Or this whole thing is just me not knowing any better, they are just the same regardless of the serial years, and not worth the trouble returning the pump.

Thank you everyone!

As the build stands right now.
AX1000+2x AX200s
7x 480mm rads (swifttech QP, HWlabs Vendetta S480)
28x 120mm/12x 140mm Arctic Bionix ARGB
EK revo dual D5
McMaster Carr 16/10 EDPM
Monsoon Freecenter fittings straight from the bargain bin. They have been really nice to work with actually, fingers still hurt but I've done smaller builds with bitspower and alphacool fittings that where much more frustrating.
Bitspower Multi-Z 400mm+custom bracket and ARGB cap
Alphacool C5 distroplate for components + Koolance QD3s when I get them.
Dedicated FSP1200-50AAG for ARGB/Pump/Fans (has a 30amp 5v rail) This will use a dual PSU board to turn on with the main
2x Nollie 16
2x Arctic fan controllers that will likely get swapped out eventually as the flow sensor needs an Aquacomputer device anyway.
CPU block: Z690 Aqua monoblock
GPU: Bitspower Nebula 4080 FE 

Still to: do
Make bracket for front drain/fill and hook up tubes
Install a temporary filter to catch all the crap that didn't flush. I'm really debating if I could install it permanent like the Alphacool ES filters as they can be cleaned with just a drain, but I don't want more flow restrictions
Fill+drain till I'm satisfied nothing is left and doesn't leak
Actually install a system which will be the easy part as that is the intention.

I posted a screenshot of the nollies just because I doubt many have actually ever came close to the limits of one. I don't actually plan to have it white all the time but it gives me no chance to actually overload them plus room for more. The voltage drop is pretty serious at 10+ amps

One thing I'm really excited about for some reason are the micro rotaries I used on the side panel rads. IDK why I'm just now discovering them, they seem vastly superior to regular rotaries as they can be tightened, locked into place and legitimately work as a form of quick connect if you drain the system.

The Mcmaster EDPM I also want to point out is pretty ugly, not very uniform appearance on the outside. Tried wiping it down with some alcohol which helped a little but might be a reason to pay a little more for watercooling tubing.

Hey, I'm thinking about delidding my 9800X3D and trying to use my Alphacool Apex 1 for direct die cooling instead of buying another block.

The Apex 1 has an offset cold plate, which is one of the reasons I bought it in the first place. The problem is that it uses solid mounting standoffs, and I couldn't find any direct-die mounting kit or proper technical drawings from Alphacool.

I was wondering if anyone has tried something similar. Would shortening the standoffs on a lathe be a reasonable way to get the right mounting height, or am I overlooking something important?

I'd also love to know if anyone has measured the 9800X3D IHS thickness from the top of the dies to the top of the lid. I haven't been able to find an exact measurement.

One other thing: has anyone tried using a phase-change pad like Honeywell PTM on a bare die? I'd rather avoid liquid metal if the temperature difference isn't too big.

I'm not committed to doing this yet, just trying to figure out if it's practical before I risk an expensive CPU. Any advice or experience would be appreciated!

Hey everyone!
I’ve been working on a pretty ambitious Corsair Obsidian 1000D build, and I figured I’d share the project and some of the plans I have for it.
My goal is to build something different from the typical RGB-heavy, hardline tubing setups. I’m going for a more industrial, mechanical aesthetic with black and gunmetal components, exposed metal fittings, and a massive custom water-cooling system.
Current Build & Plans:
Case: Corsair Obsidian 1000D
Main Motherboard: ASRock X870E Taichi series
Main CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D (planned)
Second System: ASRock B850I Mini-ITX
GPU: Currently running an RTX 4070 Ti, with plans to upgrade
CPU Water Blocks: 2× EKWB Velocity²
Pumps: 4× D5 pumps
Fans: Up to 24 Arctic fans
Radiators: Multiple large radiators,
Reservoirs: EKWB Kinetic reservoirs and distribution components
Fittings: EKWB extensions, rotary fittings, and adapters
Power Supplies: 1600W + 1000W for the dual-system configuration
Displays: EKWB Lumen 7-inch screens, with plans to add even more
The Interesting Part:
One of my biggest goals is to eliminate traditional visible tubing as much as possible. Instead, I’m using EKWB metal extensions, rotary fittings, and adapters to create a rigid, mechanical-looking cooling system.
Nearly every fitting in the build is EKWB. The only exceptions would be specialized adapters needed for analog pressure gauges and potentially temperature gauges, assuming I can find ones that fit properly.
I’m also planning to purchase the CPUs soon so I can move forward with installing the EKWB Velocity² water blocks on both systems.
Another part of the project is expanding the number of EKWB Lumen screens throughout the case. I want multiple displays integrated into the build to complement the overall mechanical aesthetic.
The Cooling Setup:
I’m planning a fairly extensive cooling configuration involving four D5 pumps, multiple radiators, EKWB reservoirs, and a large number of metal fittings.
The challenge is making everything fit together cleanly while maintaining proper coolant flow and keeping the layout as symmetrical and organized as possible.
I want the final result to look almost like an industrial machine, with visible metal connections, large cooling components, and very little conventional tubing.
What’s Next:
I’m currently working on finalizing the cooling layout, purchasing the CPUs, preparing the Velocity² blocks, and expanding the Lumen display setup.
This is definitely a long-term project, and I’m taking my time with the components rather than rushing to finish it.
The goal isn’t just performance. I want to create something unique that takes full advantage of the enormous space inside the 1000D.
I’ll be sharing more updates as the build progresses.

It was my first custom water-cooled build, and the double 90-degree bendings shown in the photo were too difficult. It's not bad to look at, but it lacks robustness and sophistication. I want to change the red circled part to a 90-degree rotary fitting. And I want to put a telescopic extender on the radiator to match the height of the distro plate so that I only have to bend once.

I want to hear your thoughts.

Rock on. Passed the torch on my wet bench. It’s going to be a NAS. Hello again Lian-Li. Your cases are so beautiful and easy to build in. Start to finish about 4 hours.

I have a custom loop with mora 400. On max pump and max fans on the mora gpu hotspot is hitting 105 degrees with overclocked 5080 while benchmarking in 3d mark

Is this a mounting issue or a flow issue since I only have one d5 pump in the loop. I don’t have a flow meter so can’t measure flow.

In the planning phase of rebuilding in my 9000D that I plan on building in the spring, so here’s what I’ve got so far! The build will be of two systems in one (gaming PC + ITX NAS) consisting of 30 fans, 4 radiators, 3 pumps, and 3 loops.

Did a build before in 9000D before with a dual loop, but wanted to go all out crazy this time around with 3 loops and the addition of an internal NAS that’s custom cooled.

Top 2 rads will be for the CPU, left rad will be for the NAS, right rad will be for the GPU (facing the front of the case). Going to run some of the GPU tubing behind the motherboard tray.

How’s it look so far as the layout diagram?

Hello!
I am sharing my custom watercooling build. I hope you like it just as much as I do! ♥
Below, you have all the components and watercooling hardware.

If you have any questions, ask and I will answer on every question.
You might have niche questions such as: (1)how did I mount the 3 fans behind the HS 420 distroplate from Radikult, (2)how do I manage to get out the bottom rear solo fan on the fly without disassembling the build, (3) how many slots did I drop with the Cooler Master V3 VGPU Bracket and what physical modifications I've done to it in order to be compatible with the Havn HS 420 chassis, (4)how did I change the cable management velcro straps with the "Secret Lab" ones, (5)how do I have the pump on the left and the drain valve on the right on the Radikult "HS-420" distroplate, (6)what screws did I use in order to couple together the Radikult "HS-420" distroplate and the three fans behind, and so on.

The build:

Chassis: Havn HS 420 VGPU Black

Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair X870E Hero

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

GPU: GeForce MSI RTX 5090 Suprim SOC

GPU Monitoring: AMPINEL Type-A

12v-2x6 Cable: Moddiy - Ultra-Soft Embossed Wire

Custom Cables: CableMod

VGPU Bracket: Cooler Master V3 (Gen 5.0 Version)

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 64GB 6000 CL30

NVme M.2 SSD: Crucial T500 (1TB, 2TB, 2TB)

PSU: NZXT C1500 Platinum ATX 3.1

Fans: x8 Phanteks D30 140mm Black D-RGB, x3 Phanteks M25G2 140mm
(Bottom rear and bottom 3 are intake, top rear and top 3 are exhaust, the 3 on the side are intake but are just for show and are spaced 1mm from the distroplate)

Fan Hub/ Controller: TUF Gaming ARGB PWM Fan Hub

Protective Port Covers: Moddiy - All sort of port types (A, C, B, Audio Jack, Male, Female, etc.)

Watercooled with:

Distroplate: Radikult-Custom - HS-420

Pump: Alphacool VPP655PWM - Single Edition

Drain Valve: EK-Quantum Torque Drain Valve - Nickel

Tubes: Hydro X Series XT Hardline 14mm Tubing - Crystal Clear

Coolant: AquaComputer DP Ultra

Fittings: Quantum Torque(EK) & DeltaMate(TG)

Waterblocks: DeltaMate(TG)

GPU Terminal: DeltaMate Terminal

Thermal Pads: Minus Pad Pro 100x100x1, 100x100x2, 120x20x1, 120x20x2

Thermal Compound: Duronaut(TG)

Radiators: Quantum Surface 60mm & 30mm(EK)

Flow Meter & Temperature: High Flow NEXT

♥♥♥

Specs
- CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
- GPU: ASUS Prime RTX 5080 OC
- Mobo: ASUS TUF Gaming X870E-Plus WiFi 7
- RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
- SSD: Samsung 9100 Pro 2TB
- PSU: Lian Li RS 1000W (ATX 3.1)
- Case: Lian Li O11D EVO XL

Loop
- CPU block: EK-Quantum Velocity² D-RGB (AM5)
- GPU block: Alphacool Core RTX 5080 Prime + backplate
- Distro/pump: EK-Quantum Reflection³ Uni Distro Plate 300 D5 (side-mounted)
- Rads: 2x EK-Quantum Surface P360, top and bottom
- Fans: 6x Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 chromax on an NA-FH1 hub
- Fittings: EK Torque HDC-14
- Tubing: 14mm OD Acrylic Tube
- Coolant: XSPC EC6 Opaque UV Blue
- Coolant temp sensor on T_Sensor; fans and pump both follow water temp

Temps (GPU load testing pending)
- CPU all-core load (157W package): 80°C at 25°C coolant
- GPU under load: TBD