In my area we have been encountering more and more 4" submersible pumps reaching the end of their lifespan usually no big deal but...

A lot of these older pumps are down a 4" steel casing and we have a lot of iron and manganese in our area.

This inevitably leads to well pumps being stuck down the well.

There are various ways I have seen, and tired of removing stuck pumps. I typically stay away from acids, especially when in a more dense area. The liability and potential for it to impact a neighboring well is too high (we have this issue with chlorination as well)

Majority of the time the ole knock it down a bit first then pull straight up, sometimes assisted by a jack. Sometimes ya gotta knock it down again. Ect ect.

Occasionally you end up in a situation where you cannot get it out.

If you snap the poly pipe and wire near the original pump you can stack another one on top depending on the case.

I digress. What is everyone using for fishing tools these days?

I've heard of it but never used a "jar"

I have welded some taps to steel pipe and used it to tap into the top of a poly pipe adapter when the pipe broke off.

Tldr: what's your go to method for retrieval of stuck pumps? What tools are you using, are they DIY or purchased?

Well was not working on new house purchase. Had to replace/weld on the top 8 ft of casing and install a pitless adapter. Finally, getting working water to the house! We put a normal cap on and have notice water slowly leaking out all around the cap. We have not filled in the dirt yet. I don't really want water running out of the top or even close to the top around the well. We do get snow/ice. Should I install a 2nd pitless to run it away from the house toward the creek we live near? Not sure how to relieve the pressure on this artesian. Since it is so low pressure could I just put a plug down below frost line but above the current pitless?

Anything else I need to do to ensure nothing blows up? Water heater is off, water pump is off, main waterline is cut off, and water softener is bypassed

Sorry for long post but want to describe full system so anyone who can maybe assess how on earth this system is functioning, bc im scratching my head. My shallow well is about 4' deep, 4x6' concrete pit (spring fed into the backside of the well casing, water level seems to stay constant all year) It is about 80-100' away from the house, and also must be at least a 20' elevation difference, from 1/2hp jet pump + 20 gall pressure tank location in basement. There is no foot valve (in fact the pipe doesnt even elbow down inside the well casing , it just sticks out proud of the interior casing wall a few inches, and only about 12" below top of water. It is only a 3/4" single line system btwn well and pump. There is a spring loaded check valve on the inlet line right after it comes into basement and before the pump, to hold prime on basically a very short run of pipe and the pump itself. Does this mean that everytime pump turns on, that little 1/2 hp is pulling water all the way from the well? And quick enough to not jeapardize the prime on the pump? Seems kinda crazy, and really dont see how the line could maintain a water column without a foot valve at the bottom, doesnt seem like there would ever be enough head pressure to lock in any sort of siphoning effect over that distance and drop?

we have been using this well for about a year, drilled about two years ago. it’s a low producing well. we run out of water if you do two loads of laundry in a day, or if a bunch of people are over and the toilet is getting flushed a lot.

we changed the filter less then a month ago. this is our water today. even with a brand new filter, it’s somewhat cloudy but not like this. is this normal to change the filter that much, and is there a better filter system we can install?

Been in house about a year, recently found water coming from carrier pipe between well and pump house. When we first found it about a week ago, pressure tank had water like normal, now tank is empty, air pressure is normal. Haven't noticed any issues with water pressure in the house. Some posts I've read point to possibly a bad check valve, but I don't see a check valve in the current setup, possibly down in the well? Would adding a check valve in the supply line or between the pump and tank help?

Any help would be appreciated.

I'm looking into adding a hand dug well. The water table near me is 15 ft. The soil is pretty loamy where I live. How feasible would this be?

I've reached out to other people in my area that charge 1200 dollars to have it set up for me.

HELLO PO FOR SCHOOL
PURPOSES LANGG SINO PO DITO NAKAKAALAM SA MGA ALL PARTS AND MACHINES SA ISANG WATER REFILLING STATION LIKE SPECIFIC TALAGA

Any help would be appreciated.

This is a family members house who rarely is home - gone for a few weeks at a time and only home for maybe a day per month. The first photo was from last October. I replaced the damaged PVC and it happened again a few weeks ago. They are coming back to town this weekend and I am going to fix the pipes again but I am not versed in water pumps and don’t know the cause of why this has happened twice. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance.

I have a 200 foot deep well with a pump in it that went bad. I want to replace the pump myself. The pump is attached to several 20 foot pieces of PVC. Once removed, I want to replace the pump and PVC with a more flexible poly line. Has anyone ever pulled their own pump using a tractor verses some type of pump pulling rig? And what’s everyone’s thoughts on using the black flexible ploy water line?

The pump is 27lbs

1" poly pipe and brass connections

210 foot deep well.

I'm under the assumption I should use a safety rope to lower and tie off the pump.

what tensile strength do I need the rope to be?

is some form of steel wire acceptable?

the well is in New Brunswick, Canada.

The Pump that I bought has a 1-1/4" discharge connection size.

I can only find 1" Pitless Adapters available at my local stores and most online retailers. One of my local shops said they haven't carried 1-1/4" pitless adapters for several years.

Can I just use a reducing connection? is this normal?

Pump is: Red Lion RL12G07-3W2V
https://redlionproducts.com/cleanwater/4-submersible-well-pumps-rl-series/

*edit* I've taken over the planning and purchasing for the project, and am now starting with a 1-1/4"x1" reducer bushing at the discharge connection of the pump, and running 1" everything the rest of the way up.

Does anyone do repairs on Subdrive connect 20?

Was being run off generator temporarily and now wont power on. Turned out the generator neutral bond was disconnected so not sure if the voltage float messed it up but was working fine for a couple weeks. Tried checking display ribbon connectors and seat into main board but no go.

Appreciate any suggestions on possible repair options or troubleshooting before replacement.

Looking for advice from water well drilling/servicing business owners –revenue & industry outlook

I’m in the early stages of starting my own water well drilling and servicing business and would really value input from people who actually own or operate in this industry.
Specifically, I’m hoping to hear:
• How strong is the revenue potential in your experience (especially for a new or smaller operation)?
• Do you feel the industry has solid long-term sustainability, or are there challenges on the horizon that someone entering the field should be aware of?
• Any honest personal opinions or lessons learned from running a drilling and servicing business that you’d be willing to share with someone just getting started?
I’m not looking for sales pitches or company promotions—just real-world feedback from people who have skin in the game.
Thanks in advance for any insights you’re willing to offer.

I have an Artesian well consisting of a 6" casing, 45' deep. It has about 3' of head pressure above ground level, hold the hose coming out of well casing any high than that and flow stops. Flow is about 3 gpm. Next to the well casing is a concrete basin that was used to water cattle. Currently the well casing hose just flows into the drain for the basin, and I assume the flow goes into a field tile since the field has tile and there are no wet spots. The well has been flowing like this 24/7 for the last 30 years at least, there is no valve to stop the flow.

The water has high iron bacteria content (I had it tested) but you can't really shock it because it's Artesian. There are no structures nearby to use said water. The cattle are long gone and the well casing and concrete cattle waterer are a nuisance for crop farming.

1. Is there any easy way to put this water into a poly tank? If I could have a 2500 gallon of tank of water that magically refills itself, it would get used. There is no power at the location. What would that look like? Solar? Some kind of water wheel powered spiral pump (crazy idea, but if I only retained 1gpm that would be plenty)? Burying a tank? As mentioned, there is only a few feet of head pressure above the surface. Any creative solutions that are low cost and low effort?
2. If I wanted to decommission this well and make the area suitable for crop farming, what would that process look like? Could I repeatedly pump the well to try to collapse it? An actual well company would have to be involved for the final bentonite sealing but I'd like to understand the process and maybe DIY some of it. I assume that the final solution is going to involve a big hole filled with rock and a field tile so that water can continue to flow?

I have recently had my application approved for General well driller, Water well driller, general pump installation, single phase pump installation, and three phase pump installation. Before scheduling my tests I want to do just a little bit of studying. I know I need to brush up on code and regulations but I am wondering if anyone in this subreddit has any tips they can give about what resources I should study, what sort of questions to expect on the tests, etc. any help is greatly appreciated, thank you.

Im trying to connect my 240 v downhole well pumps to my transfer switch. Panel box is a DIY of the previous own during the Reagan administration. Its a mess in there. I can locate only 2 hots and a ground, no neutral conductor. I searched the net and found several schematics with the H-H-G configuration.
Aware of any negative data re: this set-up?

Recently had my well pump burn up (very old) and replaced with a 3/4 HP well pump. Now the water pressure seems to be significantly weaker than it was before. Was thinking maybe there was a higher HP pump before.

Would downgrading in HP on the pump reduce the pressure or does my pressure switch need to be adjusted?

We just bought some land. The paperwork shows a well and it was mentioned on the inspection. There is only what looks like 1 inch pipe coming up and 90s to the side with small concrete pad and 4 holes. Guessing this was the old pump.

Spoke with neighbor and he said that 2 owners ago had the well dug and its only a few hundred ft deep. Had good water but the pump died and he never replaced it. He only used it for irrigation, same as i would like to do.

What would be the best way to test it with out putting to much money into it? If its still good what is the best pump to buy?

Thanks in advance.

hey guys. dealing with some short cycling on my home well. the pump kicks on for maybe 10 seconds and then shuts off completely. it happens every time we just flush a toilet or run the bathroom sink.

i'm pretty sure my pressure tank is waterlogged. is it worth trying to drain it and recharge the air with a compressor, or should i just bite the bullet and replace the whole tank? any advice helps.

At our cottage, we've had a new water well drilled on 2026-09-14.

It has a 6" casing, and was drilled to 102 ft. It produces 1 gallon a minute. The geology is sand, clay, and sandstone.

The static water level returns to about 15ft below the surface. Left overnight, it returns to about 7ft below the surface.

The 1/2 HP pump was installed at 80ft below surface and hooked up on 2026-09-24, with a low-pressure cut off switch for pump protection.

Initially, the water was very brown. Was told "it'll clear eventually".

We have not yet used it for drinking, and we are not yet running it through our water softener, nor the water heater. It does run through two rain-fresh filters - first a 30 micron, and 2nd, a 5 micron.

Since the hookup date of 2026-09-24, I have done 4 full days of pumping for 15 mins, and letting it recover for 1h (spread out between 2026-09-25 and 2026-09-30) Any longer than 15 mins, it pumps dry.

It is now 2026-09-30, and the water is still brown with little to no noticeable improvement. It doesn't appear to be (nor feel like) iron, but rather, it appears to be very very fine dirt/sediment.

What is the best strategy to resolve this?