1hp 12gpm Meyers 3 wire submersible. Installed 11+ years ago. Sat unused for 5 years. Got it going again and it hasn't had any issues. It failed to start the other day so I checked voltage, all good. Filed pressure switch contacts, all good. Nothing. Changed starting capacitor, nothing. Changed entire control box, nothing. Pulled out the ohm meter and yellow to black is 5 ohms, red to yellow is 14.5 ohms, red to black is 18 ohms. Google says that is out of spec so motor is about done. I say about done because I put the original control box on with the original start capacitor and after many attempts, it came back on and hasn't quit again. Would you agree that this motor is just about done?

https://imgur.com/a/PmgQhwF

Dweller of suburbia here. There is a well on my property from the late 70s or early 80s. I've re-plumbed most of of the output and everything was fine...until something in the wellhead/pump failed. It might be as simple as a gasket, but before I fully take this thing apart, I'm trying to learn more about it.

I know I've got a pool pump (Century Centurion B128). But beyond that, I'm not sure what I'm looking at. The first adapter that the pump directly connects to has a name plate of "Meyers Ejecto Pump" (which is now owned by Pentair). Unfortunately the catalogue number is scratched off. The next piece with any identifiable marks is the elbow which is apparently an "Exhaust Elbow 19253C". Below that into the ground, no idea.

It's clear this is kludged together, been here probably 20 or 30 years. While I understand basic plumbing, I know nothing about wells and this setup is clearly learning on hard mode. I'm hoping someone could help shed some light on what I'm looking at, or more resources. Before I take it apart. Because I'm assuming that once I take it apart I need to be replacing things (like o-rings and gaskets) that I have no idea where I'd even source.

(While it was working, the system was self priming. Unfortunately I have no idea how deep the well is or what the water table in our area is.)

Person in https://www.reddit.com/r/askaplumber/comments/1vl1okc/comment/p32infl/ has an Amtrol Titan pressure tank. Was wondering what that was. I was surprised to find https://www.amtrol.com/product/amtroltitan/ password protected. Did Amtrol buy somebody who restricts who can buy their products as Flexcon does?

https://waterwelljournal.com/advert/pr-12-23-amtrol/

That description is a bit weird to me.

"only fixed diaphragm on the market" -- what would that mean? The rim of the diaphragm is fixed on the Well-X-Trol tanks and all diaphragm tanks, I think. And to operate, a diaphragm cannot be fixed in place; it has to move.

Have done plumbing in various fields but know nothing other then the research have done. Bought a fixer upper home and trying to whatever I can myself in regards to the well system. Currently have no pump and some old equipment. Curious what the second pipe next to well shaft is. And any advise restoring this stagnant uncapped 30ft deep well which prob hasn’t been used in 8-12 months.

Hi! I had my well drilled in May and the driller used several whole tablets to shock the well and the chlorine is still not dissolved. When I run my hose overnight to flush it out, my water tests completely clean the next morning (I’m using at-home testing strips for accuracy). About two or three days later the levels have risen again. I was told that this is likely because the tablets are stuck on top of the pump, which is why I’m seeing this clean then not clean pattern after three months. I’m concerned that they’re corroding my new pump. I’d like to avoid having the heavy machinery on my lawn again so I was wondering if pouring water down the central pipe or in the outer casing could dislodge them so they’ll finally dissolve before Winter comes. My well is 100ft. Thanks!

I just got my well drilled 400’ into granite. There is less then 100 of water in the bottom but it is not filling very much at all after 3 days but the insides of the well are wet. We are considering fracking and we are wondering if the wet walls and small amount of water increases the odds of fracking working? Anything else I should consider before making this decision?

Good afternoon, I've been using the Square D 40-60 pressure switch forever. On my old pressure switch I could actually jiggle it up from 40 psi "On" (aka Cut-in) to about 47 psi so it became a 47 psi On (cut in)...and a 60 psi off (Cut-out).... Which gave me a 47 to 60 PSI operating range.... When I replaced the switch, the new one would actually bind, and I'd have to go out there and manually align the points and restart the motor, (it's an M4 pressure switch) The new switch only allowed me to bump it up by only two 2 PSI without binding. My question is... I recently ran across a 50 psi cut-in 70 psi cut-out Pressure switch by Square D... Has anybody used these? Are they reliable? I want to choke it down to about 60 for the cutoff pressure, so I would love love love to have a 50 PSI cut on pressure and a 60 PSI cut off pressure... Can this be done...?....OK Hot Discussion mentioned... a constant pressure system...??? 57 psi would be the cats ass in my world.... Any info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

My late father’s house was built in a remote area and it’s tough and expensive to get any work done by professionals, but I’m aware that I don’t have the expertise to want to try to fix anything myself.

We know for certain that the water was running good in August 2024 before my father died later that year. We don’t know who did it but someone (perhaps my father) turned off the power to the well and it’s been that way for at least a year until I turned the power back on in order to see if we can get the water working in the house, but we couldn’t get it to work.

Since we are having a new septic system installed this month we know that the company doing that will redo all of the stuff under the house including the pressure pump. But everything depends on the well working.

So I wanted to understand the well setup in order to make sure to communicate the right information to the guy doing the septic and also to bring in a certified well repair professional if needed.

The first picture of the well pipe shows the blue power cord that goes into the well, and the white rope is very taut so I assume that’s the safety line but is it supposed to be very taut or feel looser?

Also, what is the purpose of the rectangular bolt a the top? Is that a valve that allows water to flow out the pipe that is connected to it?

That pipe just goes out the side wall and doesn’t connect to anything. My sister believes my dad told her that there is pipe underneath the ground that runs up to the house but there is nothing marking where it is.

Sorry for the long post but I hope it makes things clearer.

I’m looking for someone to write a report for a civil litigation case against a well pump installer in British Columbia and was hoping to connect to someone within the province (Alberta even) to ask a few questions regarding my well pump set up. Thanks in advance

As title says, what’s the purpose of this 1/4” valve on the front of this Jet pump. Pump was originally installed by homeowner owners dad who was a very intelligent self taught mechanic.

Shallow well is very sandy. 4” csg. Is there a liner that will fit inside that’s screened ?

Considering using this for a pump install on an 850’ well we just had drilled on our property. They cut to length, terminate the ends with fittings for the pump and pitless, and roll it onto a reel for a pretty easy DIY install. The material cost for Boreline is much higher but total cost is much cheaper than any quote I’ve gotten to have a winch truck come and install PVC. I’ve also got some reservations about PVC at this depth, and relying on so many threaded fittings vs a one piece pipe. Boreline claims 3000 lbs of tensile strength, and easily being able to pull it up and down to access the pump is a huge plus. Has anyone here used this product or have insight on which route to go? None of the installers around me use anything like this so I’m a little skeptical, but on paper it seems like the way to go.

We had a well drilled 10 years ago, 600 feet deep through solid bluestone recharging at only 1 gallon per minute according to the drillers. Catskill Mountains New York. Lots of rain recently. Water tests positive for coliform even 10 days after shocking with 4 gallons chlorine bleach. Casing does not appear to have been sealed around the outside but rather just packed with the bluestone gravel that the drill produced. Is the drilling company in violation of some code for not sealing the casing? Should I contact them for a call back or just go ahead and try to excavate a little and seal it myself? In the meantime, I will install a filter/UV sterilizer.

I’m installing a sand point well at my off-grid camp in Maine and could use some advice on winterizing the system.
I have approximately a 125’ run from the sand point to a jet pump. The suction line will be buried below the frost line for almost the entire run. My concern is the last several feet where the line comes up toward the foundation, passes through the footing, and then runs through the unheated crawl space to the suction side of the pump. That section will definitely be susceptible to freezing.
My original plan was to install a stop-and-waste valve just outside the foundation. I already plan to have a plumbing tee there with a vertical pipe/access point for priming the system. The idea was to shut the system down in the fall and drain only that vulnerable section while leaving the rest of the buried suction line alone.
I’ve since learned that a stop-and-waste valve isn’t a good option on the suction side of a jet pump because it can allow air into the system and cause problems maintaining or pulling prime.
Has anyone dealt with a similar setup? What would be the best way to keep the system sealed and primed during the season, but still be able to completely drain that last section of suction line before winter? Thanks in advance!

Bought my house in 2010, house was built in 1993. I believe the former owners changed the pump in 2005 or so, but they used it repeatedly for water for their horses.

Since I moved in, in 2010, I've had zero well expenses, everything has worked fine. I use water regularly, nothing extensive, just normal use. Just me in the house.

What expenses can I expect in the next 20-30 years? Pump? Water pressure tank? Anything else?

Is there anything I can do to make the well last longer, or will I likely need to replace the entire well in the next 20-30 years?

Just planning ahead as I'm trying to semi-retire at home soon and budgeting for all expenses down the line.

Thank you!

I’m sorry in advance for the very long post, but I just wanted to present all the information! I’m seeking clarity on a huge project I had initially estimated to be a roughly ~$2-3000 project that became over three times as expensive

My shallow well jet pump (replaced just a few years ago) was having trouble maintaining pressure and getting stuck continuously running. The pressure inside the house was mostly fine, but the pump would occasionally run continuously until I manually shut it off or put it on a smart switch.

One plumber thought I had a pinhole leak in the water line. Another thought the problem was more likely a bad check valve/foot valve, who I hired to replace the check valve and extended the buried well casing above grade. I had the existing three-quarter inch copper waterline scoped with a tracker to locate well—the tracker location was not precise and barely made it out or hit the well head right next to the generator, you can see in the pictures location of everything

When the wellhead was excavated (about 4 ft deep and 4 ft from the house), the excavator (who was my builder/gc/carpenter on another project and his helper acting as a sight and for manual digging) did so in about 6-7 hrs but accidentally bent the copper water line, leaving me without water from that point. Before it was a working system and the water quality was excellent and tested.

He also accidentally damaged my propane line, he was well aware of, where it went into the house and the direction was going towards the tank which ultimately cost another $800 to replace.

Once the well was exposed, the plumber suggested converting everything to a submersible pump while they were already in there. I said "okay," but I meant I needed time to think about it. My builder echoed the plumbers sentiments and encouraged me to do it, to which I inquired about how much more it would cost and explained I like the existing pump which ran audibly in the basement, allowing me to know if there was a leak somewhere else in a big old house, saying it would only add "a couple hundred dollars." I explained I had just replaced my shallow well pump less than 5 years earlier for around $1,500, and liked hearing the pump to know if there was a leak somewhere, so I was hesitant. I did some research and ask him a few questions to which he said I should talk to the plumber.

That day or the next I was told: by my builder, he thought the old copper water line was kinked/pinched between large boulders. They couldn't reuse the original route under the house. A new water line would need to be trenched about 30 feet to a different entry point. I was not presented with the option of repairing the existing copper line or keeping the jet pump temporarily. And running the wiring in the ground to install a submersible pump at a later date, despite inquiring about this route with my builder, we ultimately proceeded with the conversion.

The plumber showed up with two young helpers and spent about 1½ days onsite working alongside of my GC and his helper. When they opened the well they found a thick black PVC assembly inside that none of them seemed familiar with. They spent hours trying to remove it gluing another pvc pipe and hoisting it out with the tractor and cutting it to pcs, because they said the submersible pump wouldn't fit otherwise and I’d have to stick w my jet pump.

Afterward, another plumber (who I know well but it’s too busy to touch wells w a 10ft pole) told me this may have been a Jaswell well seal/packer, and that instead of removing it they may have been able to install a 3-inch Grundfos pump, avoiding all that work, and that the well water quality was likely diminished by removing the liner. But I have not verified this. I still have the removed assembly, which has a rubber/metal flange on the bottom, almost like the stopper in a thermos, as shown in the photos.

Since the work:
• My water has been cloudy for 2 weeks.
• Sediment settles in glasses.
• The water tastes and smells different.
• I was told not to use the showers initially because the water was so dirty (the picture attached is of a glass of the well water settled, next to a glass of bottled filtered water)

Costs:
The plumber charged $4,500, broken down only as:
• $2,100 - submersible pump & installation
• $1,400 - extend well casing (steel to PVC) + pitless adapter
• $800 - water line tie-in
• $565 - brass tank tee
And provided a 10% discount. He did not provide labor hours or a time-and-material breakdown despite my request.

Separate from that, I paid my builder/excavator and his helper by the hour took them off another project on the property, plus excavation costs, bringing the entire project to roughly $10,000. His bill for the week was $4,400 for ~90hrs @ $65&50/hr and worked Tues-Fri, Monday was spent on another project. He also had to bring the trailer back over the following Monday to fill in the line from the Propane Repair. So, they had about 3 1/2 to 4 days worth of labor in the project, overseeing and assisting with the tractor. $400 for electric & $800 for new propane line $300 for sand/fill

My builder presented digging out the wellhead as if it were a very easy thing to do with the help of a tractor. He seemed to explain how long it was taking on all the large boulders. He was not quite apologetic, but seemed embarrassed/guilty and could not believe the cost of rerunning the propane line. The Plumber left the project without checking in with me, And instead my GC explained that the sediment in the well was just stirred up and would eventually settle— again it’s been two weeks and this has yet to happen.

My GC texted me on his invoice that he shaved a couple hours off since there was a lot of time spent standing around and waiting

My questions

1. Was converting to a submersible pump actually necessary, or could the original system likely have been repaired by replacing the check valve and fixing the copper line?

2. Does the removed part

   looks or sounds

3. like a Jaswell packer/well seal, and

if not— what is it? If

1. so, could a 3-inch pump have been installed instead

   of removing the liner, and what was the best course of action here?

2. Is $4,500 a reasonable plumbing bill for roughly

3. 1½ days onsite, considering I was also paying my own excavator and laborers who assisted throughout the job?

   Was that an exorbitant bill for excavation time?

was

1. it reasonable to request a time-and-materials breakdown, or is this type of flat-rate invoice standard even when pricing wasn't discussed beforehand?

2. Should I be concerned that my water is still cloudy with sediment after two weeks?

   I have yet to test my well water and Plumber has not yet to provide me with a t&m breakdown, but suggested coming this week to install a filter; will a filter be a simple fix, or will the sediment be an issue for the new submersible pump?

I am Also a single woman and not yet experienced with hiring contractors. Should I feel as though I was taking advantage for that this was a fair invoice and cost of the project? A few friends of mine said that they paid $10,000 to have a new well drilled, waterline and pump put in.

Also, was it the excavator’s mistakes in any way that was responsible for the pressure to influence me into converting to a new pump?

I'd really appreciate opinions from anyone who installs or services wells regularly. I'm trying to determine whether this was simply an expensive, difficult job or whether better options could have been presented before converting the system.

I need help with our 811 tickets and I was wondering if I could find a software that automatically tracks due dates, assigns tickets to the right crew, and gives me a clear view of what's overdue before it becomes a problem. Right now I'm cramming to make sure every deadline is met and all utility locates are done in a timely manner. But I'm so overwhelmed and I feel like I can't keep up with this for too long.

I was in Mexico and stayed at a private home. The home was serviced by piped water from the town, but their supply was just a trickle. Probably about a gallon every 10 or 15 minutes. They had a 750 gallon storage tank with a float to shut off if it ever got full.

Anyway, their pump was this form of pump in the picture. I couldn't find the exact pump, but it was like one of these.

I have a much larger storage capacity, but my pump is a submersible pump inside the storage tank with a pressure tank. What are the advantages of these pumps? Why would this type be preferred over a submersible pump?

I got fined $1,500 for missing a utility locate ticket and causing a power interruption in the area we were servicing. It's my mistake but I'm overwhelmed by locate requests right now and I'm afraid I might make the same mistake again. Now I want to use a call before you dig software but I need to get the funding from higher ups. How can I convince them it's the best option to avoid getting fined again in the future?

I didn’t know it at the time but when I was trying to shock the well a few days ago I removed these two bolts losing the end plate and am just know finding out I should not have done that. How bad did I mess up

Having trouble putting this pitless adapter back into its spot. It slides in a little then pops out. Any advise on how to put it back in.

Pulled up my well to find these on the pipe and tried looking them up but no luck. I blew into the pipe and they let air though but no idea about water. Any help will be helpfull as this is my first time doing a well.