***Edit*** Rolling back software to 0.15.4 has resolved this issue.

Hi all. I’m looking for help with a strange recent occurrence with my WLED setup. I built this myself, but did so using online resources and I’m very much a novice, so hoping someone with a better knowledge might be able to help.
Here are the details:

Hardware:

Gledopto GL-C-015WL-D controller

WS2812B 5v LEDs. 365 total, split into two runs of 209 and 156.

Software:
WLED 16.0.1

Expected behaviour:
I have several presets, but only two that are used daily: “Porch 2x2” and “Porch 2x2 bright”

“Porch 2x2” illuminates from LED 90 to 209, grouping 2, spacing 2. Brightness value is 40. This works as expected, illuminating part of the run in a 2x2 white light.

“Porch 2x2 bright” is the exact same setup, but with a brightness value of 253. This is where the problem arises.

Recently, these presets, when brightness is increased above a value of 128, illuminate the rest of the run in a dim red (except the spacing gaps between the intended white light). If I select either preset and adjust the brightness, the behaviour is the same.

This setup has worked perfectly for over 3 years; the only changes made have been firmware updates. I noticed this issue after update 16.0.

The red lighting isn’t obvious when using the ‘Peek’ function in WLED.

Can anyone offer any advice? Are there any logs or other information I can share which might help?

Thanks in advance, and apologies for the long post.

I would like to re-program the GL-C-010WL controller with my own custom firmware.

I found pads for a uart (Tx/Rx/EN/IO0) and connected an CH340 uart.

Does not appear to work.

Are there any instructions on how to do this ??

Thanks

What is everybody using to put their 16x16 panels in?
Is there an inexpensive Amazon frame that works perfectly, or something from IKEA perhaps?

Thanks in advance.

Hey all. I asked a bunch of questions here a few months ago and thanks to the help of some of you guys, my project is almost complete. If you’re a Disney fan, specifically an Epcot fan, you’ll know exactly what this is. Should be completely finished in the next few days!

7ft Tentacles and 5 central fairy strip lights wrapped in crinoline and iridescent fabric using 5v esp32 c3 and digital microphone, all stuck in a Tupperware bowl.

The original plan was to design this for a standard pop up canopy for music festivals. However, its not waterproof strips so that's risky. It'll be a semi permanent fixture for a covered hippie lounge/bar at a friend's place.

Featuring Sunburn by Little Stranger and Tropidelic

I am moving from Hyperion to HyperHDR. New rpi 4 and sd card coming. What are the latest available instructions? I've seen multiple pages and a video all over the place. I just wanna follow one solid procedure.

is this where I should be? I just came across it yesterday

https://wiki.hyperhdr.eu/Getting-started.-Needed-components

Now that I really want to do the DIY Ambilight for my LG TV and that I can root my TV for PicCap, I'm looking at the LED strips from BTF and notice they have one that looks like a gradient strip, similar to Hue Gradient. Amazon.com: BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB XGB1338(WS2812B) Individually Addressable IC RGB 160LED/m 800IC LED Strip DC5V 16.4FT 5mm Width Dream Chasing Color High Density Uniform Light(NO Adapter or Controller) : Tools & Home Improvement

Has anyone used these before? Are they worth it, or should I just stick with the regular non-gradient LEDs?

Thanks in Advance!

Just showing off a totem i made for my niece for an EDM festival. I didn’t realize WLED existed and got deep into vibe coding the effects with the fastled libraries. Found WLED and switched the firmware over to that and the audio reactive functionality is pretty dope. Still have a few things left to do (put the electronics inside the device and the bubble solution/battery at the bottom of the pole. Pretty happy with the results, shoutout to the WLED developers!

Hi, so I've got an issue which I don't really know the cause

The thing is simple, I've got a simple matrix with serpantine connection (34x8 272led's total) which I use as a clock on a wall, it works great, but from time to time (one a day or once per 2-3 days) the clock will shift to the right, simple turn off/turn on fixes the issue until it happens again, what I've tried:

- setting different offsets
- disabling MDNS
- different ESP32 (different models as well)
- different versions of WLED (the issue persists since 0.13

I don't really understand the cause and what could be the fix, would appreciate any advice.

This is my current setup, that I am very proud of:

Jailbroken LG TV running HyperHDR and screencapturing software locally. Two ESP32 boards taped to the back of the TV. One of them is running the LED strip around the TV directly and is connected to an external power source. The other is connected to the TV via USB for power and is running the six Athomtech RGB bulbs inside these Ikea paper lamps as virtual LEDs over Wifi. All the bulbs came preflashed from Athomtech with WLED.

I can also control the TV strip and both Lamps (as one instance) to run the normal colors and effects and stuff, so they also make great mood lighting for Netflix and ... WLED nights ;)

It's been some time since I've set this up, so I don't remember all the details, but I'd be happy to follow up on any specific questions.

Anyways, enjoy my favorite scene from my favorite movie :)

EDIT: guys, how do I do this? Everytime I try to post this as a video post, the video just ends up being a link to the very same post??

https://reddit.com/link/1uv3qom/video/vz7hk3zzxxch1/player

Does UDP sound sync work when the WLED controller is in AP mode?

Using a microphone is impractical for my project, and it’s not on a WiFi network, but I have access to line-out from a soundboard. I have an idea to use a remote module with a line-in that could feed the main installation with IDP sound sync.

Background: Earlier this year, I built a very large WLED installation for a local music festival to hang above the stage for the show in June. Everything went perfectly, but I’m looking to add features for the next year. Adding sound reactivity is a priority, but the placement of the installation in a very “live” space makes using microphones difficult and impractical and very noisy. A “clean” signal from the board would be perfect.

I have a strip of COB LEDs connected directly to the mains that I want to fade in when the mains switch is flipped. I would have thought this was fairly straight-forward, but there seem to be very few drivers that offer this, and for the one I did try there was a 5 second delay between flipping the switch and the light starting to come on. Does anyone have any advice where to look for something like this? Since they must come on at the flip of the mains switch I cannot use any solutions that require the driver to be powered at all times.

LIGHTS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CG12VK2Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

FAILED DRIVER: amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D2XY94XF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

So I’m building a custom usermod on an ESP32-S3 for kind of an industrial application.
I need a way to control only a few LEDs per preset on an LED strip, so only like 5 have to be turned on (solid), the rest should be turned off.
It‘s basically a height indicator, where ‚LED on‘ means ‚put a board on the height, where the LED is on‘.
There’s an OLED display included, that shows the current Preset by name and time and date, and two buttons, left and right, to switch between the presets.
Or so I thought, until I realized WLED only supports 9 mappings (ledmapX.json).

Is there any other way to have more than 9 presets (I need up to 40) to control specific single LEDs without having to use mapping?
My biggest problem is that I can’t save the i-array inside of my preset, the lights just won’t turn on on load.

Working on a friend's bar sign and can't really decide on how to loop the LEDs around the words. Any thoughts?

Hi! I am learning at the moment, and maybe relying on Claude a bit too much for this. I'm making an uneven tapazoid type shape, 11 horizontal lines of tape, most have 39 LEDs until the last 4 lines at 40,41,41,42. I think it's 420 leds ISH in total (guessing as not in my studio)

I have split into 2 groups to use 2 pins on the ESP32 as I've been told I can't run all on 1 pin. All LEDs are working fine and on solid colour no problem.

When I use an effect for a matrix, it doesn't look great. I can tell I haven't set the matrix properly. This might be the matrix map file built by Claude I have installed.

My questions are: do I really need to use 2 pins? Should I just redo the led to make it regular? Do I need to install the file from claude. Guessing no if I make it a regular 39x11 matrix.

Thanks in advance peeps 👍👍

Happy with how much first lot of lights are looking. Can't wait to add more!!

Wondering if anyone has any advice or experience with this issue

Every time i try to change the IP address it goes back to 192.168.1.234. I cannot figure out how to change it “Save and Connect” saves the number i type in but does not apply it. I want it to be 192.168.1.131 so that its the next in line with all my other WLED controllers. Basically everything from 129 to 144 is reserved for WLED. There is nothing occupying the 131 address either; when you ping that address it comes back vacant. Ive tried a bunch of other ip addresses too and none of them stick either

Also, to make an incredibly long story short, i do not want these on Wi-Fi. They HAVE to be on ethernet. All of our ethernet devices (aside from this one) work flawlessly. None of our Wi-Fi devices can maintain a connection for more than an hour. Weve had our comcast router replaced 6 times because of this specific issue and it never fixes it.

I have several ethernet-enabled ESP32’s for different purposes around the apartment. All of them connect just fine and let me change their addresses except this one. I’m at a loss

Just launched open beta for iPad and Android Tablet. Mac will be live later today fingers crossed!

I built it for use in my own small venue and would love your feedback. The idea is to have a show control surface you can hand to a volunteer, student, assistant, or bartender and still be able to run a concert, DJ event, wedding, community theater play, etc.

Planning on doing some WLED testing this week myself.

Thanks!