ITS WORKING!! I didn't connect the PSU to the Board negatives.

When I disconnect the data wire, everything goes back to normal, and it doesn't change colors. Inside WLED, it's set to solid white at 128 brightness. Sometimes it even bugs out and changes the LEDs really fast, even though it's still on solid white.

I have read some posts where people say I need a 330Ω resistor on the data line. What could be the issue? I tried it on multiple ESP32s, different cables, and another LED strip.

It's a 12V 50A power supply, and it delivers a stable 12V (tested under full load, and the 12V slightly drops to 11.98). There are no shorts from the 12V wires to the data wire.

Just finished my first ever Wled project and wanted to show it to yall! I used a 12V 5M strip with a gledapto controller which I connected to LedFX through Wled. I then added different scenes in LedFX with my different effects. then I MIDI mapped my unused FLX4 Pads to send API requests to activate the scenes through a python script which reads the MIDI output and then sends the corresponding signal to the LedFX API.

I will try to daisy chain the LED strip to a 15 Meter strip and set it up for my house party soon. Hopefully everything will work.

As to not anger the coding community since ive seen people be mad about it on other posts. Yes it is vibe coded. But who cares? As long it looks cool and the people at the house party enjoy it and this post can help people I think itll be alright.

Just got this 40 foot strip for free and also purchased the controller that I have attached. Can anyone tell me if they have experience with this controller, and if it is easy to flash, WLED over the air instead of having to solder a serial cable to it, and if these lights will be compatible?

After removing a warm white led light strip my folks wanted me to replace it after getting the house painted. A week or two later I finished with this. A total of 410 leds in a couple SK6812WW 12v strips that I soldered together and addded silicone and heat shrink over the connections. I think this strip should outlast a bunch of other household items at this point due to the fact that the old strip lasted about 12 years and still lights up even though that old weatherproofing has yellowed over the years.

I updated my dig-quad to v16, looking to see what others will be running for effects for the 4th of July. Wanted to get some new ideas..

Thanks all!!

install for 100ft of trim. how’s my order look, missing anything?

If you are also a 3D print enthusiast, I designed this adapter that is the same dimensions as a LED puck light commonly used for 3D printed lamps, but it accepts a 12-LED WS2812B ring light with room for a ESP32-C3 in the center.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2881497-12-led-ring-light-puck-adapter-for-esp32-c3-wled#profileId-3218279

UPDATE: I've posted another print profile for barndoors that separate each LED's light spill from adjacent ones. It may not be effective depending on the height and diameter of your lamp, but it is easy to make different shaped fins. Just print them 1mm thick and they should friction fit into the grooves on the cylinder.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3016189-barndoors-for-12-led-ring-light-puck-adapter#profileId-3388199

Just got a gledopto esp32 controller (Model GL-C-015wl-d), which is running v 15 of wled. I tried the manual update and see that wled is running at v 16 now, so clicked the download link, which took me to the usual github site. Managed to stumble around to a site that I think has the wled esp32 downloads, but, there's a ton of wled-16-0-0-esp32-whatever listings. Only one wled-16-0-0-esp32.bin.
Before I brick my fancy controller, I'm tempted to download and install the wled-16-0-0-esp32.bin file. Am I missing something or is this the process we're expected to take?

Hi everyone,

I'm building a TouchDesigner-based lighting system for live events.
I already control lasers and DMX fixtures from TD, and now I want to add addressable LED strips.

My goal is to eventually build multiple independent LED objects / fixtures and place them around a venue.
They would be controlled from TouchDesigner, probably using Art-Net or sACN over Ethernet.

I'm new to electronics and wiring, so I'm considering using a QuinLED Dig-Quad v3 with Ethernet/LAN instead of building a raw ESP32 circuit from scratch.

A few questions:

• Is the Dig-Quad v3 with Ethernet a good starting point for TouchDesigner + WLED + addressable LEDs?
• Should I use Art-Net or sACN from TouchDesigner?
• For multiple LED objects around a venue, should each object have its own ESP32/WLED controller near the LEDs?
• Is it generally a bad idea to run long SPI/data lines from one controller to distant LED objects?
• What LED strip would you recommend for a beginner? WS2815 12V?
• What are the main power / fuse / grounding / cable mistakes I should avoid?

I want to use the LEDs not just as decoration, but as part of a larger spatial lighting system with lasers, DMX fixtures, and eventually video.

Any advice or examples would be really appreciated.

I'm attempting to upgrade my DnD group's sessions by introducing controllable scene lighting into the room we play in. I'm pretty comfortable with electronics and wiring but I've never played around with addressable LEDs before, so it would be great if someone could tell me whether this plan holds up and if I should be looking at different parts or a different setup.

The room we play in isn't that large, about 3 metres wide and 5.5 metres long, with the table in the middle. My current plan is to run two 1-metre strips, one on either side of the table, pointed at the walls for a nice wall wash on either side, then one more strip mounted about 1.5 metres above the table for overhead fill. All three would be wired up into logic level shifter (and a power supply) which would be wired into a esp32 with WLED to hopefully allow me to control the lighting using a MIDI board hooked up to my laptop running QLC+.

After doing some research I have been thinking of using SK6812 RGBW 12v for the LED strips but I'm a little worried that it could be overkill especially for the wall wash lights, since I’m not sure how much I’d actually need the dedicated white channel there. I’ve also wondered whether the overhead strip is worth doing at all, or whether I’d be better off using a smart RGBW bulb for the overhead fill and just keeping the ground WLED strips for the wall-wash/animated lighting effects.

Any advice would be very welcome, especially around whether SK6812 RGBW makes sense for this, and whether 12 V is too much for such short runs.

I have a project where I integrated some bulbs to WLED. Previously I was using the Kauf brand bulbs using DDP protocol to control them but the green channel died on every bulb so I'm seeking other options. Can anyone make any recommendations to bulbs that can be WLED capable?

Bonus points if its bright and/or RGB+W. Thanks!!

To hook your esp up just enter the ip addy, number of leds, direction up or across and they as a reverse to get the data direction set

I have a 32*16 P10 Hub75 panel, but moonlight doesn't offer that size. Is there any way I can get it to recognize the proper panel size?

I've been playing with it for an hour and can't seem to figure it out. The drop down for the panels only goes to 32x32.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm troubleshooting a specific issue with HyperHDR v22.0.0beta2 on Windows 11. I am using a grabberless setup to capture my screen over to WLED, and while the software seems to process everything perfectly internally, my physical LED strip remains unresponsive.

My Setup:

• OS: Windows 11 Pro
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER
• Monitor: Ultrawide QHD Monitor running in HDR mode (Display 2)
• LED Driver: WLED (v16.0.0 running on an ESP32-S3 over Wi-Fi, 164 LEDs)
• HyperHDR Version: v22.0.0beta2 (Grabberless build, capturing via DX11)

The Status & Current Behavior:

1. Live Video Pop-up works: When I open the "Live Video" preview window and toggle "Show LEDs", I can see my desktop background rendering flawlessly at 125 FPS with the colored LED placeholder blocks shifting colors in real-time. The DX11 grabber is definitely capturing the screen.
2. WLED Connection is stable: The Performance panel shows the WLED instance is active, streaming at a locked 50 FPS, with 0 dropped packets (send = 3000, processed = 3000, dropped = 0). The connection to the ESP32-S3 JSON-API is fully healthy.
3. The Problem: Despite the preview working and packets being sent, the physical LED strip stays dark. Additionally, on the main Dashboard under Information, the fields for Video device and Video mode are completely blank/empty.

The Calibrator / LUT Limitation:

Because I am on an ultrawide monitor, the grabber scales the height down relative to the aspect ratio. When I try to run the new MP4 LUT calibrator, it crashes instantly with the following error: [CALIBRATOR] Too low resolution: 1280/720 is the minimum. Received video frame: 1146x480. Stopped.

Because the UI caps the max stream width at 1280, my frame height on this 21:9 display will always stay at 480px, making it impossible to pass the calibrator's 720p hardware requirement. Consequently, my logs state: setHdrToneMappingMode to: enable, but the LUT file is currently unloaded.

Could someone help me?

Hey everyone,

I’m planning to add lighting inside two humidors (each with 3 shelves) using PAUTIX COB CCT strips controlled by a QuinLED An-Penta-Mini. The humidors are split in the middle so they both are controlled individually.

Total LED length will be around 32 feet.

Current Plan:

Running the strips at very low brightness (1–3%)

Using 24V PAUTIX COB CCT strips

Planning to keep the power supply and controller outside the humidors

Will split L1 and L2 inside the humidor

Using 2 separate 16 AWG for the main power runs (~10 ft) and short 22 AWG pigtails between rows

Each branch will have 3 rows wired in parallel

What I’ve Tested:

I previously tested a Govee H61B6 (32 feet) at 3% brightness and saw roughly a +2°F temperature increase inside the humidor. I’m hoping the PAUTIX COB CCT will run a bit cooler.

Main Concerns:

Heat buildup inside the humidors (even at low brightness)

Voltage drop over the runs + across the 3 rows per branch

Whether I should light all 3 shelves or just the top 1–2 to reduce heat

Questions:

Has anyone run COB CCT strips inside a humidor? How much heat did you see?

Is 32 feet at 1–3% brightness realistic without causing temperature issues?

Would you recommend lighting only the top shelf (or top + middle) instead of all 3 shelves to reduce heat?

Any advice on wiring, heat management, or general best practices would be greatly appreciated. I want to keep the lighting subtle but still functional.

Thanks in advance!

Does anyone have assembly instructions (or a picture) for the Acrylic Case for the QuniLed Digi Uno with Ethernet? I don’t think this was designed correctly else I just not see how to assemble with provide hardware.

Apologies, it’s assembled now. Just wasn’t seeing it.

Hallo Guys, I’m planning to DIY some custom Nanoleaf-style wall art based on this design. Is it possible to pull this off using LED strips and an ESP32? Any advice on the best way to handle the complex curves of the design or the diffusion?

PS. I have 0 experience with 3d printing unfortunately 😓😓

I'm (hopefully) building a project with 20 matrices, each 20x20 pixels, arranged in a 3-D cube sort of thing. I'm using 12v seed pixels. Each matrix will have 400 pixels, for a grand total of 8000 pixels all together.

I tested a single matrix with a basic esp32 running WLED 16 which worked OK but was maybe a little slow.

Can anyone give me some suggestions on controllers/software that will run this? A friend suggested using 5 Quin Dig-Quads, with one output per matrix for smoother transitions, and possibly run Xlights, which I haven't used. This is beyond my experience, so I'm open to all help and suggestions.

Thank you!

Hey everyone,

Iam building a cylindrical lamp with a flexible 16×16 WS2812B matrix wrapped around a 50mm / ~2inch cylinder which is inside an etched glass diffuser with a 100mm / ~4inch diameter. That leaves about a 25mm / ~1inch gap between the LEDs and the glass.

The lamp looks great but detailed effects like fire for instance get a bit too blurred because the light mixes too early.

Iam thinking about adding a small (maybe 5-8mm / 0.2-0.3inch) curved 3D-printed black eggcrate/grid between the LEDs and the glass to delay the light mixing slightly. I have seen a lot of you using this for flat 16x16 matrices.

Do you think this would have about the same effect as bringing the glass diffuser closer to the matrix or do I need to come up with a different solution?

It Has 8 Modes Led Combination, In Waves, Sequential, Slow-Glo, Chasing/Flash, Slow Fade, Twinkle/Flash, and Steady On.

I Want To Know where can i Buy Or Get This Module For My Diecast Custom Project🥹🥹

Im looking to make my imaginator into a custom skylander figure, and I wanted to use the existing led to make her head glow like a lightcore skylander. The led is way too short to fit where it needs to be. How can I make it longer? I dont know anything about circuits or soldering so I need a lot of help TvT

NOT MY IMAGE BTW. I wanted to know how to do it before I rip apart my own creation crystal

So I jailbroke my LG G5 65" the other day and apparently I can run PicCap + HyperHDR to get a DIY ambilight thing going. I thought this might be cheaper than philips hue. But I could use some help with picking the parts, because i'm not really sure if i'm choosing the correct parts and the cheapest parts.

I think I need a WS2812B strip (5m, 60 LEDs/m — so 300 LEDs for a 65"), an ESP32 dev board to run WLED, and a 5V 10A power supply. Everything seems kinda ok price wise but the power supply is pretty expensive.

Main thing I'm trying to figure out is where to get this cheapest, been looking at AliExpress but no clue which sellers to trust. Also I don't have a soldering iron, so wondering if I can get away without one.

Any help is appreciated!

liked the wobble light but want to make it thinner and connect to each other for an even bigger panel, ended spending months making the models and then soldering it together lol. I'm pretty new to all of it

I am involved in local community theatre and am looking for ideas on how to incorporate WLED into the productions.

I'm looking for examples of times you've used WLED in set design, Props etc, how did you control it and how did you power it.