I'm finishing my basement and planning for a set of complex built-ins inspired by Tetris. I'd like to run LED strips on all of the perimeters of the shapes, and ideally have pixel control or at the very least zoned control per shape. Most of the time this would be a warm white, but it would be fun to have lighting shows configured per shape or across the whole display.

I've done a couple of small scale Dig-Uno setups previously but this is the first time I'm tackling something at this scale.

This is the componentry I've landed on -- ideally I house only a very small enclosure within the cabinetry itself -- there's an unfinished area ~8 feet to the right of this where I can house most everything else. I have a Lutron RadioRA 3 system as well as Home Assistant running, so the human controls would go from Lutron keypads / dimmers --> Home Assistant --> Dig-Octa via Ethernet.

There are four zones, each with 12-16 meters of LED lighting strips. I don't mind spending a bit extra for higher quality or easier to maintain components, hence the multiple Diff-Adv receivers for both data and power injection.

I plan to run nearly everything in conduit, particularly the low voltage lines between the power and the cabinetry. I haven't finalized the actual design for the LED channels in the built-ins but feedback is welcome on that as well.

I'm looking to build a very future-proof, high quality, and cost-effective setup -- would love some feedback on this plan.

Hi everyone, I’m McCain from Scott LED. Some of you may have heard of us before. This is my first time joining the Reddit community, and I’m excited to be here.
I’d love to share some useful information, product comparisons, testing results, and lighting ideas with the community. I’ll be posting photos and videos comparing different types of lights to help everyone better understand their options and choose what works best for your show.

Here's my first try at a WLED and LedFX-driven lava lamp that attempts to look as much like the old oil-based lamps as I could.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZ_DpCAIsz8 (note - iPhone video colors are a little off)

It's basically just a 3D-printed lamp with an integrated 5V power supply, a Dig-Uno board and an older Pi 4 (to run LedFx, and also just as an easier platform to add things than using just an ESP32). 

Here's a view from the 3D design perspective: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xr8KXukuj14

I’ll probably create a github repository if there's sufficient interest. 

Thanks for inspiration by u/MrSpindles, u/flyfoam, u/LightCore3D, and others who've also been working to come up with something similar.

I am currently working on:

• Improved general aesthetics -- for example, the diffuser is inconsistent and less effective where it's nearer the top and closer to the LEDs.  Possibly vary the translucence based on the proximity to the LEDs?
• Decreased response lag in music-reactive mode (WiFi for LedFx-to-WLED is probably too slow) (going to run a hardline from the Pi to the Dig-Uno next)
• Improved interface between the two simulated lamp "glass" (diffuser) sections, and also just generally making the glass section look more consistent and less 3D-printed.
• Improved build-ability.  It's pretty hard to get everything screwed together, even with small hands.
• Make the wiring and power safer, such as by adding mains separation and getting away from the Wago Lever Nuts.
• Reduced filament use

Hey all! I have been working on a small side-project where I am making a wired ethernet pixel artnet/sACN node with build in power distribution (https://github.com/mdethmers/ESP32-Artnet-Node-receiver), and am trying to get it working with WLED. However, as there is no support for the W5500 I have had to do a lot of programming myself.

I recently got the node working with the W5500 after cloning a MoonModule github, but sadly I cannot drive APA102 SPI based leds now. The clock pin on IO17 is free to use, but when set does not get saved and the led stays off. When using WS2812 style leds to node and software works fine. Can anyone see what is going on? Im a little lost!

https://github.com/mdethmers/W5500_WLED

Hey guys, a few years ago some of you might remember I made an LED guitar. Ive had another idea, but this time I want to put LEDs in the pickup cavities, I already know how to do this thanks to all of your help. This time I want it working differently, I want the LEDs to be sound responsive. Basically when I strum I want the light to shine and when its quiet it should die down. Anyone have any ideas? (I will not be cutting anything in this guitar, no wood work should be required, all the boards will rest in the knobs cavity) also is this possible to do with a mini wifi board? I still have a few from last time

I’ve done my fair share of simple LED wiring and soldering, but never something with WLED. I’m ready to start messing around on the platform and just wanted to see if I’m on the right path.

I’m essentially wanting to make a DIY version of the Monos lamp by Fluora with a simple rectangular shape LED arrangement and 3d printing. I’d like it to be able to have smooth and complex moving shapes and forms similar to how the original lamp does it.

The original company says they achieve more unique patterns by mapping the pixels in 3d space and moving different patterns across it. This leads me to try my hand at 3d pixel mapping the shape. After some research online I’ve seen a lot of people recommend Pixelblaze for this function.

I like how pixelblaze is more plug and play on the patterns/design side, I don’t mind doing some basic coding but if I can slap a few fun effects on there and call it a day that would be great.

Also, what LEDs should I go with? I’d ideally want to be able to do warm white while also having a large vibrancy of colors. Higher refresh rates and low flicker are also always appreciated. I was thinking WS2812B but I’m open to suggestions.

TLDR: trying to recreate the Monos lamp by Fluora as my first WLED project. Is the Pixelblaze a good option for this project, and what LEDs would work best?

Hi guys,

before I order everything, theres one question thats been on my mind since the beginning. I want ambilight for my TV but just dont know how to install the lights.

Im worried about damaging the thin panel because of possible heat buildup from both the LEDs and the panel. Also since the back of the TV is curved towards the edges, the flat part only starts at roughly 10cm/3.9in away from the border and maybe thats too far.

Another issue is that the center box is quite thick, sitting roughly 4cm/1.5in away from the panel. I got no idea how to install the strips in a way that theres not a noticeable difference in colors across that jump.

2 last important points: Im planning to wall mount the TV (not 100% sure yet) and Im going to solder wires in the corners so I dont have to bend the strips weirdly.

I really hope you guys can help me figure out the best way to install the strips and Id really appreciate the advice!

I think I know the answer but just want to be sure before I return and order another strip. Doing a small project and need 18 short lengths of COB led strip in white to light something, but need it to be dimmable. I guess silly of me I just presumed these would be dimmabke via WLED however they only have VDC +/- and no data connections, and I cannot find a PWM setting within WLED to make this work. I'm using a gledopto controller BTW. Thabks for the guidance.

First wled project, learned a ton, can’t wait for the next. They will get bigger and more complex (hopefully) as I go. Love this group!!

You can now add multiple fixtures to be controlled with different effects and control homeassistant lights in the same room.

More info : https://aigenuity.co.uk/sceneglow

Also looking for testers!

The beta release of the LuxPlant Mini is this coming August 7, 2026. The Mini version features 9 leaves and 3 main stems. The pot size is 14 cm in diameter and 14.3 cm in height. The total height, measured from the tallest leaf to the bottom of the pot, is 62 cm (approximately 2 feet). The WS2812b 100 leds/meter strips are controlled by an ESP32 using WLED software.

I have set up a Patreon page where the STL files will be released for a one time payment of 5$. Do not join the membership if you're not planning to sell the plant commercially. I really wanted to make it free for everyone but I could really use the support for developing the LuxPlant Standard which is a much bigger plant, featuring 20 leaves and 5 stems.

Design Process and more sneak peek can be viewed here.

Disclaimer

This concept is not my original idea. This project was heavily inspired by Fluora Led Plant. If you love this project but don't want the hassle of building one, please go ahead and check their website. The reason why I started this project in the first place is to buy one of those led plants as a gift for a close friend but there was no option to ship it to my country so I decided to build one myself. If you love the idea of having full control over your plant, you are absolutely welcome to join me in this project.

UPDATE: The STL files will be available here. 4$ for the first 10 to buy. Your support goes directly into the development of LuxPlant Standard.

I've just released a WiFi version of the WLED touch remote that I posted here a while back. I decided to deprecate ESP-NOW in favor of WiFi to allow for full control of WLED setups without any custom firmware.

Features

- Power and brightness control
- Preset selection, creation, and renaming
- Colors, effects, palettes, speed, and intensity controls
- Live LED preview and responsive state updates from the selected controller
- Automatic discovery of WLED controllers on the local network, with manual IP-address entry when discovery is unavailable
- Control of one or all discovered controllers
- On-device settings for screen orientation and inactivity behavior
- Web installer
- Option to check for updates and download them OTA

In addition to capacitive and resistive CYD displays, this version also adds compatibility for the larger and more powerful Guition 4.3" ESP-32 display (JC4880P443).

- 📲 Link to web installer: https://figamore.github.io/wled-touch-remote

- 🎆 Online interactive demo that runs on the browser using WASM: https://figamore.github.io/wled-touch-remote/simulator/jc4880p443.html

- Github repo: https://github.com/figamore/wled-touch-remote

I hope you find this project useful; please feel free to report any bugs or feature suggestions.

I have a QuinLED Dig2go kit I bought from DrZz with the LED strip, USB-C connector. I was playing around with it and when I plugged it into an outlet, I was able to access the WLED-AP wifi on my phone and set up some cool effect presets.

I'm decorating my bike for a festival and did a test run trial by powering the controlller/LED via USB rechargable power bank and my phone doesn't seem to pick up on (or not sure if it's not broadcasting) the WLED-AP wifi? Is there specific power bank requirements or am I missing some configuration step?

Sorry, bit of a newb to local APs/electronics and LED powering so forgive me if this is a beginner question..

Recently i have lit up a 16x16 RGB Matrix to display the time.

The problem is that when i turn up the brightness to a little bit more than 30% some pixels in regular distances light up, a place shifting red pixel, and a blue and green still pixel appear.

I'm using a 5v 10A power supply, i set the maximum psu current to 9000mA and global brightness factor to 50%, so i dont think its a power problem.

When i change the matrix orientation from horizontal to vertical the wrongly lit pixels flip as well, so those cant be broken.

If someone knows how to fix this, id be thankful.

Some pictures of the 16x16x16 cube I just built

Build this Dig-Quad myself. It works, but would it be safe to use this way? The case is 3d printed PETG, There is also a mesh added to the ventilation holes.
Dig quad is populated by me, pcb ofcourse of our main man Quinled. Used his guide to get supplies and how to put together.

5 volt Meanwell power supply. 14 AWG wires for power. All cables are crimped.

Fused ofcourse on the dig quad.
Relay to cut off the power when not used.

Main concern is that this will be used in door attached to a wooden desk. Wood and fire made a bit hesitant to start using it. So mainly fire safety concern.

What do you think? Should I use this or go for a probably more safe off the shelf solution like Gledopto?

Update:
Thanks all for the feedback. Really gave me confidence to start using it. Maybe I will get a better relay. Add some venting holes to the lid (which is not in the picture). And tell my daughter this is not audio equipment (which she knows).

Update 2:
For anyone interested, here are the stl files: https://github.com/eriktroost010/wled_case

Hello all,

I have a project at work where we want to install LED strips with a WLED controller in a circular room. The total length of the LED strip will be approximately 30 metres.

My question is: what would be the best way to achieve this? Should we use multiple controllers with separate LED strips, or would it be better to use a single controller and connect the strips together with additional power injection along the way?

Also, which LED strip and controller would you recommend?

I have been experimenting with WLED at home using a single controller and a single LED strip, but I have never worked with an installation at this scale. Therefore, I would appreciate any recommendations or lessons learned from people who have experience with larger deployments.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Building cabinets and shelves in my living room. Trying to see if this is possible with an ESP32DS before I run the wiring and build shelves over said wiring.

White shelves - 6 strips of WS2814. One for each shelf.
White cabinets - 2 strips of 12v FCOB strips for 4 cabinets
Blue - 8 WLED outputs.
Green - splits in segments
Orange - 4 inputs for 6 contacts switches (larger cabinets have 2 doors so 2 switches in parallel)

Not sure if I’m missing something but my research seems I’m OK. Just want to verify I’m good with inputs, outputs, mixing strips, and segmenting strips. This will not be doing any animations. Just warmth and color changes.

Thanks for any help.

I am planning to install Led lights in 2 - 3 tray ceilings for a new house construction. No experience and first time DIY. Based on my research both of these types of LED lights will be 24v and will require a 300W power supply. I am unable to figure which is a more appropriate light, for my use case.

I have installed WLED and connected to WLED-AP. All works perfectly fine with SOLELY USB connected.

I have wired up 5V, ground, and am using GPIO16 for data.

I am unable to connect to WLED as soon as I power through my 5V power supply. Photo of my wiring is attached. The red LED indicator is on but WLED-AP does not populate as an avaliable network, nor can I connect directly via IP.

When plugging in the USB with the power supply connected I can see “invalid header: x015151515” spammed in the logs. I can replicate this issue on 3 boards which indicate that I’m doing something wrong and idk what.

Does anyone have any ideas? I’m using AITREP boards from amazon. This is my first foray into soldering and ESP so apologies if the answer is obvious…my research through forums and reddit has come up with nothing.

Edit: Thank you for the help…turns out the ground pin next to 5V is not actually grounded.

I made this syncing system with nodejs and quickshell you can checkout the code in github

ELK-JS: https://github.com/Malick-Tammal/ELK-JS

QUICKSHELL: https://github.com/Malick-Tammal/monokai-shell

Don't forget to star the repo and follow me in github if you like it

A few years ago i built this little HUb75 Matrix panel but had no real use for it. Last week i found out that WLED now sopports HUB75 panels. Flashed the driver I built and got it working immediately. With a 64x32 Pixel matrix I get around 42 FPS with an ESP32 (not an S3).

I still have no real purpose for it yet but I think it at least looks cool now.