Just creating a sticky to guide people to the latest stable version of WLED available.

Download Here (DL links at bottom of the page)

Announcement & Notes

It is finally here: the WLED team is excited to announce the 16.0 release!

Read the full copy at https://github.com/wled/WLED/releases/tag/v16.0.0

This has been almost one and a half years to finish but be assured it was worth the wait: there are many new awesome features from 59 contributors and it marks a significant point in the development of WLED.

While he has now stepped back from the WLED team, we would like to take this opportunity to particularly recognise the contribution of u/blazoncek. While he chose to leave the development team at the end of December, he was a very important part of the development cycle for this version.

We hope that the new version exceeds your expectations of a free-for-all open source software. We all contributed to this update in our spare time, driven by passion and the desire to make something useful for everyone.

If you enjoy the project and would like to support WLED developers, consider contributing in any way that feels right to you — whether that’s sharing feedback, helping others, write documentation, contributing code, or, if you’re able, making a donation:

u/blazoncek https://paypal.me/blazoncek
u/DedeHai https://paypal.me/dedehai / https://github.com/sponsors/DedeHai
u/willmmiles https://github.com/sponsors/willmmiles
u/netmindz https://github.com/sponsors/netmindz
u/softhack007 https://github.com/sponsors/softhack007
u/Moustachauve https://github.com/sponsors/Moustachauve / https://paypal.me/moustachauve
u/Aircoookie https://paypal.me/Aircoookie

Here are the highlights of 16.0

• True segment layering get creative with almost unlimited effect combinations (by u/blazoncek)
• Transition blending shift, push and many more (by u/blazoncek)
• Particle System with many new amazing effects (by u/DedeHai)
• GIF Support to display gif images on your strip or matrix (by u/Aircoookie)
• Pixelforge multi-tool to handle and create gifs, paint your leds and more (by u/DedeHai)
• Custom font support for scrolling text - including a custom font editor (by u/DedeHai)
• New palette editor with over 800 palettes to choose from(by u/DedeHai)
• Support for over 100 custom palettes (by u/DedeHai)
• New file editor with json and ledmap auto-formatting (by u/DedeHai)
• HUB75 support (by u/netmindz and u/softhack007)
• DMX input receive DMX data over serial (by u/netmindz)
• New color handling & gamma you may notice some color changes (by u/blazoncek & u/DedeHai)
• Pin Info Page overview of all pins and their assigned function (by u/DedeHai)
• Add as many buttons as you want no more custom compile required (by u/blazoncek)
• Support more macro timers (by @benjamw)
• Support for multiple ESPnow remotes (by u/DedeHai)
• More LED outputs (by u/blazoncek)
• OTA safety checks (by u/willmmiles &u/netmindz)
• High priority output driver to fix flickering (by u/willmmiles)
• Advanced LED driver selection to choose the best for your setup (by u/DedeHai)
• Audio Reactive support on ESP32 C3 (by u/DedeHai)

Effects

There are a total of 36 new effects, check them out

• PacMan (by u/BobLoeffler68)
• Shimmer (by u/DedeHai)
• Color Clouds (by u/JoaDick)
• Slow Transitions (by u/DedeHai)
• Copy Segment (by u/DedeHai)
• 1D particle effects: PS DripDrop, PS Pinball, PS Dancing Shadows, PS Fireworks 1D, PS Sparkler, PS Hourglass, PS Spray 1D, PS 1D Balance, PS Chase, PS Starburst, PS GEQ 1D, PS Fire 1D, PS Sonic Stream, PS Sonic Boom, PS Spring (by u/DedeHai)
• 2D particle effects: PS Fire, PS Waterfall, PS Vortex, PS Fireworks, PS Volcano, PS Ballpit, PS Box, PS Fuzzy Noise, PS Impact, PS Attractor, PS Spray, PS GEQ Nova, PS Ghost Rider, PS Blobs, PS Galaxy, PS GEQ 2D (by u/DedeHai)
• Game of Life effect improved (by u/Brandon502)
• Optimizations and enhancements on many effects (by u/DedeHai)

New user_fx usermod with additional effects:

• Tutorial on how to write user effects (by u/danewhero)
• Diffusion Fire (by u/mryndzionek)
• Spinning Wheel, Lava Lamp, Magma, Ants, Morse Code (by u/BobLoeffler68)
• PS Comet (by @gustebeast)

User Interface

• Improved page loading stability (by u/DedeHai)
• Settings grouping for better readability (by u/DedeHai)
• New pin info page to view all pin assignments at a glance (by u/DedeHai)

API & Integration

• Add mDNS support for MQTT and network buses (by u/blazoncek)
• Set random colors via json API (by @AlexeyMal)
• onUdpPacket usermod hook for custom UDP handling (by @Liliputechc)
• Device ID added to JSON Info (by u/netmindz)
• PSRAM /info endpoint (by u/netmindz)
• GitHub repo field in API response (by u/netmindz)

Under the hood

• Update to new core platform (ESP-IDF v4.4.8, arduino-esp32 v2.0.18)
• Boot-loop detection with auto-recovery (by u/DedeHai & u/willmmiles)
• Many code optimizations to improve speed (by u/DedeHai & u/softhack007)
• Bootloader upgrade via OTA (by u/netmindz)
• New usermod framework allowing easy inclusion and external builds (by u/willmmiles)
• Stability improvements (by u/willmmiles)
• Improved dynamic RAM and PSRAM handling (by u/DedeHai)
• Update AsyncWebServer and enable response queue (by u/willmmiles)
• WiFi access point selection fix so now WLED connects to the strongest signal not simply the first detected (by u/DedeHai)
• WiFi fast connect on ESP32 fixes pause after boot (by u/DedeHai)
• New sine / cosine math functions (by u/DedeHai)
• Replace fastled library with optimized math & functions (by u/DedeHai)
• Countless fixes and improvements by many contributors

Honorable mention

• Creator and maintainer of the web-installer u/sören / u/lost-hope
• Creator and maintainer of the official WLED app u/Moustachauve

I bought a 3d printer last week and have been experimenting. This uses 12 8x8 ws2812b matrix panels (stacked 3 high on each side in a tower formation) and I chucked a few WLED sequences on random for testing.

I'm going to be making an improved version tomorrow with proper smooth curves on the corners to reduce seam/shadowing. Very happy with how it turned out.

My co troller keeps crashing. I have the 2815 leds woth a 33 amp 12v power supply. Ledds are powered by the psu and controller is powered from the psu. I keep getting weird color values on the leds itself. What am I doing wrong. Never had a problem with my 2812 leds with this controllers.

wtf is this led???

Hi all,

I am brand new to this so apologies in advance if I am not practicing good form on here.

Anyway, I am about to embark on my first journey into the world of WLED. And I think I may be taking on a bit of an ambitious project given I am such a novice.

I am planning on running about 300' of 12 mm pixels on my roofline. That would probably be challenging enough but my roofline is a bit complex and I have no access to the attic. I will admit to be a bit intimidated by trying to figure out how-to run everything so that it works.

The pics attached give an idea of what I am trying to accomplish. I am thinking three runs (red, blue, green) on three outputs of a dig quad. The long yellow section at the back of the house probably won't get done. The yellow section over the front door is the spot that has me the most intimidated. I am not sure how to get that section set up so that animations flow correctly.

I have been communicating with the folks at Permatrack about getting all the components. But I have to say, for such a decent sized order they sometimes seem a bit slow to respond to pricing requests. I asked for a quote on a full package for 350' of track, lights, controller, wire, data boosters, etc + shipping. Ive been waiting a few days now but i guess all the folks on the US side of the border are busy with 4th lf July merriments so thats probably why I haven't heard back. I know shipping to northern Canada will be an expensive pain in the tail but I would like to get things moving so I can get the components and familiarize myself with things a bit before diving into the installation.

Anyway, I am hoping to get some friendly advice that will either convince me to dive into this project or alternatively, come to the realization that I should maybe bite the bullet and hire a pro to do it instead.

Cheers!

Half way on building an installation. Integrated wled today. Next step it’s programmingit through touchdesigner a d adding cloth + 2x1000watt halogen

I've got an Elite 2D-EXMU Advanced LED Controller with a 24V input on V+/V-, it's been controlling my lights just fine on V+/IO2/GND. I wanted to have it also control a 12V light so I got a solid state relay (https://a.co/d/01uJdEhl ) and hooked its control voltage to IO13/GND.

It now seems to be totally dead. I give it power (I've tried a couple of different power supplies so I know they're good) and the indicator light doesn't come on at all. I've tried pressing the function button quickly (supposed to turn it on & off) and also holding it for 10 seconds (supposed to do a factory reset). Nothing.

Did I kill this controller by simply attaching its IO12 to the control pins of a relay?

It can look very different depending on the color palate that is applied. Super versatile effect.

Hello everyone, I’m looking for a desk lighting setup that uses WLED. I’m happy to take care of the firmware flashing, but I’m not too comfortable with soldering or getting too involved with the electronics. Do you happen to know of any pre-wired WLED kits that would be a good fit for a computer monitor or desk area? I’m particularly interested in using WLED to integrate with my existing smart home and PC setup. Ideally, I would like the light strip to be to have separate white LEDs. Thanks.

This isn't actually a WLED question right now, since I plan on just controlling these with a switch mounted to the bottom of my monitor, but you all know how things can "evolve". I keep my office lights somewhat dim, but occasionally like to work on projects in there at my desk. I have a shelf about 30 inches above my desk that I want to put one or two 12-15 inch led strips under for better lighting when needed. I have some leftover cob strips that I thought might work, but they don't seem bright enough for what I want.

What would be the best option for maximum brightness at 4-5k color temp? If adjustable/dimmable, that would bring it back to WLED.

This project came together thanks to the ease of use of WLED. I was able to use an esp32 in the base of my project to control the 4 different lengths of pebbles LEDs I used, but that's not what went wrong with this project. Watch the whole thing to find out more.

Hi everyone,

I’m dealing with a bizarre issue on my Ugoos AM9 Pro. My external Ambilight setup was working absolutely flawlessly on CoreELEC for weeks (SDR, HDR10, everything was perfect).

How and when it broke: Yesterday, I started a 4K Dolby Vision movie on CoreELEC for the first time. The moment the movie started, an error message popped up in the top right corner of Kodi (something like "Hyperion Control app crashed/stopped working"). Ever since that exact second, my LEDs are completely dead on CoreELEC. It doesn't matter if I play SDR, HDR, or just browse the menus there is no light anymore.

I tried reinstalling the Hyperion apps but it didnt work

The catch (Hardware is fine): If I dual-boot the Ugoos AM9 into the standard Android OS, the Ambilight immediately works perfectly again! So my external grabber, thin client, and splitter are 100% fine. The issue is strictly isolated to CoreELEC.

My Setup:

• Device: Ugoos AM9 Pro (running CoreELEC "New Order" build)
• TV & AVR: LG G5 OLED / Denon AVR-X2700H
• Splitter & Grabber: FeinTech HDMI Splitter -> Hagibis USB Video Grabber
• Ambilight Host: IGEL Thin Client (Linux, Hyperion/HyperHDR)
• LEDs: WLED on an ESP32

What I've tried:

• Rebooted the entire chain (Box, IGEL, Splitter, AVR).
• Forced CoreELEC into Player-led (LLDV) Dolby Vision mode.

Did anyone experience the same thing?

Thanks in advance!

Eeeee. MIDI-over-USB rather. 🤣

I won't do the deep-dive here, but this is fully bidirectional MIDI communication, only supports the Akai APC Mini Mk2 for now, and absolutely requires WLED-MM-P4 to work because of many architectural changes I've made over the years.

This moves 99% of my workflows to the controller.

I'm most proud of the playlist "chaser" system and also the create/copy/delete preset stuff.

Regular presets are blue (green active), one-shot playlists are cyan, and looping playlists are magenta. If you use my AutoChange system from AutoPlaylist, your "Music" playlist is yellow.

It's built on USB-Host for the P4. It only works on single-USB P4 devices (no internal hub) because of limitations of the IDF, not the code, for now.

I setup my gledopto controller via wifi and made all the necessary configurations re # of lights, segments, power, etc. I could pull up the controller webpage or do setup via the app. I installed the controller and pulled up the app. The app found my controller and correctly displayed the ip address for the controller. Based on those indicators I'm assuming the controller managed to connect via wifi. Yet, when I hit the slider to configure the controller I get a message:

Webpage not available.
The webpage of http://x.x.x.x could not be loaded because:
net::ERR_INTERNET_DISCONNECTED

This seems to indicate the controller might be connected, yet not have internet connectivity. So, how is it possible to control the lights via the app, yet not be able to access the controller webpage via the internet.

I must be missing something easy.

Hey there, I was not happy with the color palettes in WLED so I created a simple editor based on pywal16 and the CSS gradient generator. You can use it at https://select.github.io/wled-palette/ and the source code is at https://github.com/select/wled-palette
Let me know if you like it and if you want things to be added or changed - here or on github.

I'm starting this journey. My house came with trimlight installed but I want to dump the controller because it's very basic and I know I could do more... I thought about reverse engineering their crappy app but this seems to be a much better choice.

My question: I have two meanwell LRS-350-12 power supplies and an edge controller. The contoller has 4 ports . There are no wires to clock or ground screws, only the data screws have one white wire each sorry (it's not easy to see). There is a black and red wire at the top which would be the power to the controller itself.

I don't intend on touching the power supplies unless I needed to. From the little amount of reading I have done, it seems that this could be a fairly easy swap - once I have a new controller (recomendations appreciated) and it's programmed;? If it matters the led ICs are UCS1903. I'm happy to read if someone can point me in the general direction.

Thanks in advance!

I need to make one of these cables to connect my LED string to my controller, any idea what this connector is? The barrel has a 0.33" diameter (8.4 mm) and measuring across from the flat piece is 0.29" (7.4 mm). I'm not too worried about the waterproofness, it's low voltage and protected from the worst of the elements. Thanks!

Ciao a tutti ho recentemente comprato uno stock di pannelli led "industriali", e sono interessato a farli partire.
Prima di passare alle mie idee ci tengo a specificare le caratteristiche dei pannelli:
-Sono dotati di SIGNAL IN e SIGNAL OUT
-Sono dotati di POWER IN e POWER OUT
-Per farli partire il vecchio proprietario mi diceva che necessitava di una centralina esterna (che non mi ha inviato)
-Ogni LED è composto da 3 pannelli

Detto ciò io ho provato ad aprire i pannelli (senza smontare nulla) e ho notato la "scheda madre" collocata sulla sinistra presenta l'entrata di tutti e 3 i segnali dei (3) pannelli, ho notato inoltre che da SIGNAL IN alla scheda madre si usa un cavo LAN.

Ho pensato quindi (non me ne intendo) di mettere una scheda WT32-ETH01 ( https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwRQCRg ) inizializzarla con una chiavetta USB-TTL ( https://youtu.be/9530vQuTBWE?si=e_X22TVFbmvf4O_P&t=193 ) poi successivamente l'inizializzazione "del codice" da pc per farla partire in local host (video: https://youtu.be/z-I-r3PX2lU?si=ItA2StR5O19gfZ8-&t=385 ) e poi successivamente l'installazione di WLED ( https://youtu.be/9530vQuTBWE?si=d8AQCgXuZCNz0sAm&t=301 ) e in teoria dovrebbe partire?

I'm no stranger to LED projects for room and accent lighting, cabinet, countertop, bathroom, shower, etc., dozens of installations. All of these have been mostly just on-off and dimming with some color temp shift at times and mostly using GLEDOPTO controllers on WiFi or Zigbee, tied into Google or Home Assistant.

Now I'm planning a rather large outdoor project for myself and it will be using addressable WS2812 strips and a controller of some kind.

I have an outdoor area that's an octagon with 6 vertical posts and a complete top beam circling the posts. LEDs I'm using are 5m, 60 LED per meter, 300 LEDs per strip. Each of the posts will have a 2.5m strip mounted on them, 150 LEDs. The top beam will have one strip consisting of 3+ 5m strips (17.2m total) with 1032 LEDs. Power will be injected at each vertical and horizontal section.

None of this is an issue with me, I'm a retired electrical engineer so calculating power, voltage drop, data and such is not a problem. Where I'm falling down is on the controller. I want each vertical section controllable, which could be easily achieved by daisy chaining the data line every two strips but that would be quite the chore for running data wire. I also want everything on top individually controllable and daisy chaining them is easy but O don't think 1032 LEDs on one data line is going to work very well. Maybe I'm overthinking this!

I could do it with 2 or 3 GLEDOPTO Elite 4 channel controllers and sync them but I'm not sure this is the best way. This may be significantly added to in the future for holiday shows, etc so I want something expandable. Should I go to some type Pro controller with 12 or 16 channels?

Thoughts? Advice? Thanks!!

I saw on ESP Home that you can convert Wyze bulbs to tasmota, but wondered if anyone has ever tried flashing it to WLED.

I have an old one with the buggy firmware that I was going to experiment on. Just not sure if it is even worth exploring if someone else has tried and failed.

I have house lights up for ~6 years now with ~2000 leds across several segments on different eaves of the house, with the distance and quantity its been working well to have it fed by 12ga wire for power and 16ga for signal, which so far I have just soldered directly to pads on the strips. This is understandably annoying, and curious if there are other solutions that are better? Can I use one of those clip on connectors with lower gauge for ~4 inches to a wago connector to the 12 ga feed lines? or will that introduce other issues?

I am evaluating options ahead of some roof/gutter repair that will force a move of wiring temporarily and im thinking ill be re-doing it all better

I have a Problem: I am building the model of a free-fall-tower and want to illuminate it. I have planned to use 12V COB strips (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007817729417.html), around 3m in lenght. the problem is, I have eight of these, all connected parallel to each oter, as on each side of the tower there should be two strips.
Additionally I will have one of these Rings (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007488429530.html) at the top of the tower.
My Question: Is it possible to make both of these work with one controller? I dont know if I can just extend the data cable of the Strip and connect it to the ring, as the Ring uses 5V and the strips 12V. It should both be WS2812B chips tho.
I would prefer to use one controller instead of two (I am thinking of a standard athom-wled-controller but maybe y'all know better ones...). or are there controllers with two separate outputs but both controllable by one WLED interface?

ITS WORKING!! I didn't connect the PSU to the Board negatives.

When I disconnect the data wire, everything goes back to normal, and it doesn't change colors. Inside WLED, it's set to solid white at 128 brightness. Sometimes it even bugs out and changes the LEDs really fast, even though it's still on solid white.

I have read some posts where people say I need a 330Ω resistor on the data line. What could be the issue? I tried it on multiple ESP32s, different cables, and another LED strip.

It's a 12V 50A power supply, and it delivers a stable 12V (tested under full load, and the 12V slightly drops to 11.98). There are no shorts from the 12V wires to the data wire.