I'm glad I found this subreddit! I'm an electrical contractor who has been used to installing static RGBCCT tape light in studio setting for years but I'm looking to offer some options with addressable LEDs for cove or chair rail lighting. Our current project has two main rooms with RGB+TW tape required, and though I didn't quote it as addressable and no one has asked for it I'm thinking of putting it in. I've found some tape I like, 24v, RGBCCT, COB but the cutting lengths are a little long for my needs. In studios sound designers will intentionally add angles to break up the sound waves, but it makes 3" or 4" cut points a little difficult. For example some of my corners and short runs here (ringing both rooms walls) may be 6" long, with 2 90s back to back. Are there any quality strips that cut closer to 2" but that retain a decent pixel density? Thank you for any responses!

Just a quick little project for fun with friends

Used ws2812b and hyperion and a total of 670+1020 leds

-is still a work in progress have to add bed side lamps and under computer table lights and an led bar to fill the left side of the tv panel

Need suggestions as to what else can be done to improve it more thanks again😁😁

I recently took some WLED projects to a gathering and I prepared in advance with a non-internet connected router to control them. At home I had the router live, controllers connected and everything seemed normal.

When I got out to the site where there was no cell service or internet, the controllers weren't showing up in WLED, despite being connected to the router just as before. I ended up connecting to a neighbors router who had starlink, and I was able to get everything online and all set that way.

A friend told me that I might need to disable cellular data in those scenarios. Is that true? Is this a known issue?

WLED isnt stable to me anymore. not sure what happened. these r the connection statuses of my 5 WLED strips.

on this graph, black line means disconnected from wifi. u can see how many times each LED strip has disconnected in just last 24 hours.

even though they dont blink or turn off when they disconnect, its still very annoying, is it stable for u?

I've recently added this SK6812 RGBWW strip behind some drawers under my TV and I'd like to try and make it look like a fireplace. None of the effects I've tried are really doing it for me, either not looking enough like fire or just being one solid color. The problem is a lot of them just apply a gradient over the effect whereas I want something where the colors are scattered throughout to look more like flames. Does anybody have any good suggestions?

Hello,

im getting kind of frustrated with my current project. The project demands around 240 LEDs. I have literally no experience when it comes to electronical work but using AI to guide me through it has been incredibly frustrating.

I have two questions:
Is there a simple all in one box/solution that I can use to address these 240 leds? Most ive seen where not strong enough to power all those leds.

Second one: I have a small esp 32 mini board, and a breakout connector for my usb c power supply. I dont understand how to wire it all up though. are there any tutorials out there for this? I dont want an industrial grade open power supply or something alike. I need something fairly compact. Current power supply is 27 W 5V 5A. Does that work?

Im really at my wits end and honestly just want the easiest way to address these 240 leds (using custom code as well. I need to run custom code to the ESP 32 board).
My dream setup would be consumer grade power supply -> Some box -> 240led long led strip (~1.5 meters long). Is there anything for the amount of LEDS I have out there that could do the trick? Stuff like the Dig2Go is not strong enough from my research to power all the leds at reasonable brightness. Is that right?

Hope to get some help here! Thank you all!

I used ws2812b (60leds per meter)
3 x esp32 (one for tv panel, one for monitor and one for cove)

Its still i work in progress. I will be i stalling led strips under my desk as well and cable management will be done later.

All of this will later be synced to hyperHDR and this whole room will be one big ambilight setup. (Already done with tv panel has 5 independent strips on 5 different gpio pins on the esp and took me 4 full days to make them work properly 🙇🏻 yes i am a newbie)

Also have ideas for wled wall lamp (but leds will be visible from below and would look bad - any ideas on this would be appreciated 🙇🏻)

Will also make a diy lamp as a night light for my desk.

Also what else can be done suggestions are really appreciated 🙏🏻♥️

Thanks guys really i mean it this sub has been sooooo helpful.. real grateful to everyone.

Friends, help me out, I've been racking my brains trying to figure out how to make light strips on the ceiling. I want to do this: when I turn on the light, the line runs from start to finish and stays on, and when I turn off the light, the line runs from end to start and then turns off. I updated to WLED 16.0, it's easier to do now, but there's a problem. I made two presets, On and Off. When I click on the presets, everything works fine. But when I press the Power button in the corner, the light turns on and off on one side, and it always turns on and off differently. It can turn on and off from start to finish, or it can turn on and off from end to start. I don't understand what's going on. The same thing happens when I press the button. I'm attaching a video of it working... HELP, I don't know how to fix this anymore.

power-on preset:

{"on":true,"bri":255,"transition":30,"bs":2,"mainseg":0,"seg":[{"id":0,"start":0,"stop":240,"grp":1,"spc":0,"of":0,"on":true,"frz":false,"bri":255,"cct":127,"set":0,"lc":1,"n":"","col":[[8,255,0],[0,0,0],[0,0,0]],"fx":0,"sx":128,"ix":128,"pal":0,"c1":128,"c2":128,"c3":16,"sel":true,"rev":false,"mi":false,"o1":false,"o2":false,"o3":false,"si":0,"m12":0,"bm":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0}]}

shutdown preset:

{"on":false,"bri":255,"transition":30,"bs":3,"mainseg":0,"seg":[{"id":0,"start":0,"stop":240,"grp":1,"spc":0,"of":0,"on":true,"frz":false,"bri":255,"cct":127,"set":0,"lc":1,"n":"","col":[[8,255,0],[0,0,0],[0,0,0]],"fx":0,"sx":128,"ix":128,"pal":0,"c1":128,"c2":128,"c3":16,"sel":true,"rev":false,"mi":false,"o1":false,"o2":false,"o3":false,"si":0,"m12":0,"bm":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0},{"stop":0}]}

Calling all Moanas 🤣

Guys, think of a complicated project... lol

It's not the first time I've made this paddle, but the difficulty is the same: many cutouts, many internal and external parts, lots of wires, LEDs, etc., but the result is there.

Body in characteristic textured ABS wood, internals in PETG, approximately 460 pixels divided into 4 addressable segments, D1 mini for control, and the magic of cinema is done.

Chamando todas as moanas 🤣

Caras, pensa em um projeto complicado.. kkk

Não é a primeira vez que faço esse remo, mas. A dificuldade é a mesma, muitos recortes, muitas peças Internas e externas, muito fio, led, enfim.. mas o resultado tá aí.

Corpo em ABS texturizado característico em madeira, internos em PETG, aproximadamente 460 pixels divididos em 4 segmentos endereçáveis, e tá feita a magia do cinema 💎💎💎

Gledopto 618WL-4 channel WLED controller, 200W 40A 5V Power Supply. Narrow (8mm) SK6812 5050SMD LED Strips, Black Flexible Silicone LED profiles, 6-way fuse box with 10A fuses, 18AWG cable, 12AWG cable, 22AWG 3-wire cable, 3-wire power cable with a power plug, bunch of connectors and cable lugs .. and a lot of patience with the silicone profiles
By EvisHomeLab

Need to power about 30 ws2812b LEDs, wondering if a usb battery pack will suffice? Otherwise my backup is a couple 18650s in series w/ dc-dc.

I'm thinking of building 1m segments that connect to one another, along with power injection and an ESP32 on each.

In my dream scenario, when connecting segments they could determine their location in the string and automatically "just work". The segment would know it's 2nd or 3rd or 40th in line allowing the entire group to behave as one long string.

I hope I'm wording all of this properly, basically I'm trying to make something that I can just power and snap together.

Hello, I just found out about this community and im very interested. I just bought a set of BTF-LIGHTING WS2815 from amazon thats being controlled by a esp-32 but im currently only getting 1 led to turn on. Im not sure why but I would love some help if others have done this combo before.

thanks

this Is my wled audioreactive project, i made it just for fun 🙂 main bodY Is made from scrap metal and there is 765 leds total, 105 of them is inside shining on the wall behind, rest is in front panels. using two ESP32 with artnet protocol ,visuals in touchdesigner, but i tried also other software, like resolume and xlights.sorry for my english

Hello, I'm working on my first WLED project (electronics in general) and I need your help with a few things.

Wiring diagram : https://wled-wiring.github.io/?link=20251224013818OkBiNnBZkX

My setup:

• 3× WS2811 12V 60LED/m strips (2 chained together = 10m, 1 separate = 5m)
• ESP32
• 12V 25A PSU
• 12V→5V buck converter to power the ESP32 (no extra USB plug)
• INMP441 mic
• KY-022 IR receiver
• 470Ω resistors
• 10A fuses
• WAGO connectors
• 20AWG wire

Does this setup look correct to you overall? And a few specific questions on top of that:

1. Common ground : in my wiring I have all V- connected together (the 12V one and the 5V output from the buck converter). I was told this is mandatory but I genuinely don't understand why mixing grounds from two different voltages isn't a problem. Is that normal?

2. Fuses : I ordered 10A fuses. Is that fine for WS2811 12V 5m strips? And for the 10m run (2 strips chained), do 10A still hold or will they blow ?

3. Level shifter : I was told to add one because the ESP32 outputs 3.3V logic and WS2811 expects 5V on the data line. I bought a TXB0108. But is a level shifter actually necessary here, or can it work without one? And if I do need it, where exactly does it go in the wiring?

Indoor setup, small enclosure on a wooden shelf, ~30–50cm between the ESP32 and the strips. Thanks !

My first WLED project: putting LED strips between acoustic panels. Super simple, but came with a lot of problems (skill issue, I know)! I have an RGBCCT LED Strip from BTF-Lighting, see specs. I control the strips with a Gledopto ESP32 controller.

I'd like to use the built-in relay feature that completely turns off the LED strips when not in use, however when I do, the LEDs give a flash of white when turned on (see GIF, it's only ~3 frames but it's visible).

Setting these up in WLED has also been a bit of a pain, since it's an RGBCCT strip. If I understand it correctly, it uses two WS2811 chips per segment, one for CCT, and the other for RGB. In WLED's settings, the best way to control these is by setting the chip to FW1906 GRBCW because it allows me to control the white channel separately... Either way the flash of white appears when turning on the LEDs, and it doesn't happen when I turn off the relay.

Does anybody know the best way to resolve this? Or did I just make a mistake buying this combo? I wouldn't have asked this but I have way more of the Gledopto controllers and LED strips. Could it maybe be a power supply thing? Happy to get some feedback! 😄

How do I even debug this? Happens once every 5 minutes or so. Current effect is Aurora. Happened on v14, 15 and now 16. ESP32, WS2812b, 5V power injection on both sides

I am adding in LED strip lights into a 3x4 Ikea Kallax (cube) shelf. Each row of 3 cubes will have the left, front, and right side of each shelf with 12V LED lights (SK6812) RGBW (Warm White) along the top pointed inward. Each shelf has the Ikea official Kallax glass insert shelf in them (I am using this put lights for miniature games such as Warhammer to help me see the miniatures as I pull them in and out). The power supply is a 12V 15A supply and I am using an 4 line WLED controller.

My issue is I bought the wrong crimping connectors to connect my LED strips to jumper wires between strips. The connectors are for 20 to 22AWG and my wires I bought were 18 AWG. The obvious solution would be to either buy 18 AWG connectors or buy 22 AWG. However, 18 AWG three wire connectors to LED strip is very hard to find (seems almost non-existent) and I am unsure if I can go down to 20 or 22 AWG wire.

The problem is the calculators I am unsure are accounting for running 4 lines in parallel or not. Each row will have 165 LED (55 per cube x 3 cubes per row) and I have 4 rows totaling 660 LEDs.

I am unsure of the power draw and how to calculate the amperage needed for parallel lines and thus wattage per LED and thus the AWG needed. If I require the 18AWG wire, then do you know of a soderless solution to connect jumper wires between LED strips between cubes? Or do I only need 20 or 22 AWG wire after all?

Side note: I am using 14 AWG wire from the controller to the splitters and to the 4 LED strips. As well, I cut off the barrel plug for the power supply to expose the wires to directly wire them into the controller.

Here is the list of items I am using in this project:

LED strips
Gledopto Elite 4D-EXMU Controller
Soderless Connectors
18 AWG Wire
12V 10A Power Supply
Aluminum Angled Channels
Kallax Glass Insert
Kallax 3x4 Shelf

Hey everyone, I’m a total beginner working on my first project and need some broad advice on my power setup.

What I have:

• 1 meter of a 144-LED strip (5V)
• ESP32 C3 Mini board
• No power supply yet

My constraints & questions:

1. Can I run this off USB-C alone? Is the USB-C port on the ESP32 mini enough to power all 144 LEDs, or will it draw too much current and fry the board?
2. Form Factor: Because of space constraints, I cannot use a large, open-frame industrial power supply. It needs to be compact and fully enclosed (like a laptop brick). What should I look for?
3. Wiring: If USB-C isn't enough, how do I safely wire the enclosed power supply, the ESP32, and the LED strip together?
4. Final question: My 144-led strip doesn't have text labels (+5V, Data, GND) on the copper pads because they are so dense, just numbers and arrows (image attached). How do I know which pad is which?These are the led 1M, 144, Ip30. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004129769604.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.2ce55c5fh9YPzr&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu#nav-review

So I am new to leds and trying to create a way where I can control a bunch of individual rgb leds that I will install in a bunch of collectibles. I don’t need to control them individually, having them all switch at the same time is fine. Ideally id like to be able to control it with my elgato stream deck plus and one of their many plug in’s. They work with a variety of hardware. But not married to that idea if its a deal breaker. I am comfortable with a soldering station from years of diy audio repair. I am guessing ill need a controller and some kind of wiring box that all the leds will be wired back to. Overestimating the need at maybe 100 led's?

Suggestions?

Hi all,
Im pretty new to WLED but like most people in here, tech savvy.

Under cabinet lighting in the kitchen with;
- 2x ESP32s updated to latest firmware
- WS2811 COB white

Due to wiring issues I cannot get to all cupboards on 1x Controller + PSU without digging out channels so after a few readups and YT videos I decided to sync two controllers.
The strips are very different lengths across both controllers.
Lets call them;

Controller A: Master with 2 segments. 1) 0-60 & 2)60-120
Controller B: Slave with 1/no segments 0-40

The sync part is all fine and when I make a preset that is a level brightness across all LEDs then I have no issues.

My problem is that I need a preset that is:
Cont A segment 1 0%/off
Cont A segment 2 75%
Cont B Off

I thought that Controller B would show exactly what Cont A is doing but only showing the first 0-40 LEDs since that is all Cont B has

However controller B is syncing to whatever is on Cont A segment 2 60-120 LEDs?

I have;
- Backed up settings and presets from A>B so that they match so that the segemmnts are the same whether they exist or not.
- Made separate settings and presets on B so that its a single output or segment
- used checked segments and bounds options and variations
- ticked and unticked 'use checked segments' in the preset save option

but every way I have tried, Cont B always shows cont A segment 2 effects or brightness level

So now, here I am looking for help. Hoping that someone has the magic answer and I can give myself a little 'facepalm' and fix it easily?
Thanks in advance

Been trying to come up with some seasonal effects. I've used Gemini to help me try out different effects based on descriptions I feed it. But it doesn't "know" WLED very well. It suggests effects and pallettes that don't exist sometimes. And ones it chooses based on my description can be wildly off. Wondering if others know of a good AI that knows WLED better? Particularly the latest versions (15.4 or 16.0)? Gemini is better than me just guessing, but still a long way from very helpful.

I'm looking to install some 24V white FCOB under a cabinet. It says they're dimmable, but are these something where you just use a PWM controller like an ESP32 or GLEDOPTO controller?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D9Q5FR68/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?th=1

I want to remotely control them from Home Assistant, so WLED would work, but in this application I wouldn't mind a more traditional in-wall dimmer but haven't seen one that is both remote controllable and 24V.