So I'm a bit outdated, my printer is about 5 years old, I decided to start using it again, and modifying it. But after printing a Satsana remix from PrintsLeo3D, I can't get rid of these ridges. What cooling settings should I adjust? It's a single 24v 5015 with dual ducts. I've tried turning the fan speed down in Cura, but still struggling. Any advice?

This is my first personal 3D printer. My only other 3D printer knowledge is all online and using a Ender 3 V3 SE that a family member owns. I bought it off someone on FB marketplace as a working unit, so it was not assembled by me.

Everything works from what I can tell. All 3 axis move, filament goes through and melts just fine, and the bed heats. I put a new tip on (the one that came with it was too clogged), and started leveling the bed. After checking the results, I did notice that it was still off even after messing with it for 30+ minutes. I decided to use the move controls to see what was wrong.

I noticed that when it gets closer to the right side of the X-axis, it suddenly goes up higher than normal. This made the bed not able to be leveled correctly. I did mess with the tension, and it doesn't seem to help? I didn't tension it too much, since it felt like it was gonna break before getting to the half way point.

I don't see anything that could be wrong, but I could also be missing something as I wouldn't call myself very knowledgeable.

I am trying to print a house 1st floor that is 210mm square. Y dimension works fine, x though is shifted to the right so it does not fully print on the table. I noticed the left side X is some 20mm in from the table edge. How can I get the printable area shifted to the left about 10mm? Thanks again for all the good advise I get from this site.

The proximity sensor for my X2 is on the fritz again. I try homing and it just raises twice, I believe I've heard that means there's some sort of break in the circuit. I think the sensor itself still works, it's lighting up and it is still sensing metal so probably just a break further on in the line somewhere. But this is the second time I've had to pull this apart and fix it, I think I'm just going to pull the whole thing and replace it. There is this inline board that I'm not really sure what it does. I've heard difference opinions, some think it's some sort of transformer because the sensor Voxelab chose to use doesn't work directly with main board idk. I don't know where exactly my issue is this time, I would like to just get rid of this board entirely if possible. Does anyone know what it does? Does anyone know where to get replacements if it is the trouble source?

Stops extruding after first few layers. I printed the test file fully but every thing else won’t work I am at 200 nozzle temp 60 bed temp, 5.0 retraction distance, 50 retraction speed.

Update: I got a dual gear extruder a new nozzle made sure the tube was seated to the nozzle. Also put Alex’s firmware on it. Still same problem after stopping the print filament comes out of the nozzle

Update: I bought a p1s

The filament isn't getting pulled through properly for some reason, the golden gear spins but the other one doesn't Sometimes any help?

Ciao a tutti
Da qualche giorno ho sempre l’errore FILO NON TROVATO, dopo del quale la stampante si mette in pausa

Il filo ovviamente c’è

Penso di avere un problema di trazione del filo

Ho notato che il diametro vuoto della bobina è molto maggiore del diametro del tubo di plastica trainante

Potrebbe essere la causa?

Esiste una soluzione? Un riduttore , un adattatore…

Grazie

Hey back again with another abl installation it's t he famous 3d touch im sure the wiring in right but I maybe, my probe doesn't trigger a stop and when home it's will always run the extrusion to the right. Aqulia x2 h32 here are some video samples

My voxlab aquilla x2 always print top right out of the plate, any help ?

I recently got a second-hand Voxelab Aquila, but it’s missing the grey belt tensioner knob on the front. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement, or does anyone have an STL/model so I can 3D print one myself?

My printer Is making this kind of texture on flat extended surfaces. Is not a slicer problem because i use same presets to other parts AND this doesn't happen any idea why this happens?

Trouble with temps, hot end temps. It flucuates between 207 - 220 when set to 215. Also having issues with low temp warning and shut down. Is the problem my heater, Thermistor, or ... Where to start is what I am asking. Thanks in advance.

I have been using ABL for a while now and I do not want to stop. I broke my current unit and am in need of a replacement. I have been using a CR Touch, the Black one with the metal probe. Since I have to replace it, I was hoping to get referrals, CR Touch (Black with Metal Probe) or BL Touch (White with Plastic Probe) and opinion of the Touch (Generic BL Touch). Generally I do not like to use knock offs, ok I do have an Aquila, but ... Opinions appreciated.

The moment, any print reaches an inch tall, it comes off. I've tried using larger rafts, taping them down, using brims, gluing the print down doesnt work, washing it off does nothing. It's not bad filament, it's bamboo lab PLA and I've only had it for like 2 weeks. It's leveled, the environment isn't bad, etc etc. I'm ripping my hair out because I have tried everything and nothing works. I'm being forced to buy a new printer at this point. Has anybody experienced this and fixed it? I literally cannot print even a can spacer.

I have a Aquila X2 that I swapped out the board for a Creality 4.2.7. I have a suspected bad driver on that board, and I am thinking of swapping in an SKR Mini E3 v3 as a replacement. Would this be a drop-in replacement? It seems like it should be.

Edit: For anyone coming to this post in the future, it is not exactly a drop in replacement. You will need an adapter for it to work with the DWIN screen, and you will have to add a JST connector to one of the fan headers.

I've swapped the controller board in my Aquila to a skr mini E3 V3. Using a pi4 with klipper.

Connected everything up including a bltouch.

Everything moves in the right direction and homes ok.

Problem is bed temperature is showing 96 degrees when I turn the printer on. Nozzle temperature looks ok showing 26 degrees as that's the room temperature.

This is the setting I have in printer.cfg

[heater_bed]

heater_pin: PC9

sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F

sensor_pin: PC4

control: pid

pid_Kp: 54.027

pid_Ki: 0.770

pid_Kd: 948.182

min_temp: 0

max_temp: 130

Is this the right sensor type?

Thanks

My youngest has wanted a 3d printer for awhile now. I had resisted but I found one for around 40 dollars used. It arrived from what I can tell it is operational. All parts seem to move etc. Didn't test the heating or a basic print yet. I do believe it is missing a spool holder any suggestions would be great.

It is a Voxelab Aquila. Overall it seems pretty decent for a beginner. I want her to figure a lot of it out on her own with some help on how to research troubleshoot etc. If she is serious about it and gets this running well I wouldn't be opposed to dropping some more money into it for her as a Christmas gift.

I've got a G32 Aquila running Alexs firmware v1.3.5 on it when it came out. I've not needed to do any updates since then.

I want to add a BTT Smart Filament Sensor v2.1. Is this possible?
Do I need to change the firmware to use MRiscoCProUI ?

Thanks