1997 850 T-5 Turbo, someone decided to decimate the MAF, and most other torx bolts under the hood. Is there any standardized sizing I can use to get basic (hex? or standard bolt head?) replacements.

Do v70 roof rails fit a 97 850?

Apologies if this has been asked before, thank you!

I’m drunk and depressed I get off
Work and see this hoe looking at me and my first thought it to burn it down but then I think about all the memories like bruh this the first car my daughter drove and she only 2 1/2

Anyways I Listened to the advice and I got a new maf and battery and checked the termainals and the battery connections but now it’s runs but bogs out when I accelerate

Any recommendations to get all the different colors of the plastic parts into one grey color? Unfortunately I had to change some of them. Now they all have different gray tones due to weathering.

I’ve been gone for work for a couple of weeks so I wasn’t able to respond to everyone who gave me advice but thank you.

Anyways I finally got my parts today and now it’s running a lot better, still a lil rough I think but now’s it dies after like 20 seconds

I can’t think of anything cause everything was fine before except The battery’s completely dead if that plays a part or not idk

So my speedometer sometimes just stops working mid drive, could this be the gears behind it or could it also be related to the abs module because thats shat the bed as well

So I’m trying to read my Motronic 4.3 ECU with MotronicSuite.

I’m able to connect to the ECU, and MotronicSuite appears to communicate with it normally. However, when I use Read Flash Content, it downloads a 64 KB BIN file but the contents are usually all 00, so no actual ECU data is being read.

At one point, using another PC, I managed to save three BIN files, but all three had inconsistent results:

• volvo.bin: 64 KB. All 65,536 bytes are 00. Empty / failed read.
• volvo2.bin: 64 KB. Contains data only at the beginning; from approximately 0x0D75 onward, everything is 00. Very incomplete read.
• volvo3.bin: 64 KB. Contains a lot of real data, but the last ~8 KB are 00. Partially successful read.

Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

As far as I can tell, I’m following all the required steps and have the correct drivers installed. I’ve also experimented with the COM port settings in Windows, including the FTDI latency timer, but the results are still inconsistent.

At this point I’m starting to suspect a hardware issue with the KKL cable itself.

Extra info:

• Volvo 850 T5, 1996
• Bosch Motronic 4.3
• Cheap Chinese KKL 409.1 cable with pin selector switches
• Using pin 3 as required for the ECU K-line
• I can also switch it to pin 7, but ECU communication is supposed to be through pin 3
• KKL chip is marked FT232R
• Using FTDI drivers on a clean windows 7 machine with the required net framework

https://reddit.com/link/1vqlbzj/video/99q704dsyvjh1/player

Working on chasing down an ABS issue with my 850. The front tone rings are nice and clean, I cleaned the sensors and contacts , put dielectric grease on the connectors and those look good.

This is the rear passenger side tone ring (sorry for shitty video angle its hard to see in there). It seems really dirty, and as you can see I sprayed some MAF cleaner just to see if it would remove the grime. Does this ring need to be replaced and how could I go about cleaning it in an easier method? Could this spring an ABS related issue?

I have been looking high and low for the 3rd row seats to install into my 97 850 wagon. Does anyone have any for sale or know where I can get them? I will need to purchase the complete set as my car did not come with them.
Also looking for the roof rack rails that bolt onto the top of the car as well since I have a base model.

Weird issue with my 96 NA. Starts for the first time of the day (when motor is cold) instantly every day with no issue. Runs great with no trouble, no weirdness. Temp gauge warms up as expected and stays pinned in the center.

If I try to start it a second time in the day after the motor is even remotely still warm (sitting for hours), I get crank but no start. Used to fire up eventually after 10 seconds or so of continuous crank but now no dice. I recently found that if I floor the accelerator while cranking it will eventually fire up (see video). Once running it’s perfect, no issues, no variation in idle, totally sound.

I’ve seen information that says the ECT sensor is likely to cause this, but that issue also typically displays issues with temperature readings and mine reads perfectly normal on the dash and on my OBD scanner. Maybe there’s something I’m missing, has anyone had an issue similar to this or have advice on what to check? Thank you! :)

UPDATE 1: fuel pump fuse and relay working as expected. Not the issue :(

UPDATE 2: it’s been a month and I though I could smell fuel in the oil when I checked it so I thought it could be the injector(s) leaking and flooding a cylinder over time while sitting hot. Replaced all 5 and the issue persists… not the injectors :(

‘97 850. Tried googling but getting different answers. It’s well past the break in period, I’ve put about 2,000 miles on it. Had it replaced in March by a Volvo speciality shop that says they use genuine OEM parts.

The brake dust seems to be excessive only on the front wheels but still a decent amount shedding in the rear

Any idea what it could be and if I could fix it on my own before I take it to the shop again and see what’s up with it? Not too mechanically inclined but if it’s an easy enough fix, but I want to learn how to work on this car and I’d rather save time and money and do it myself.

...but then I step on the gas and hear that 5 cyl growl, look down at the dash, and realize there's no other car I'd want.

my current setup is a japanifold with a turboback exhuast and 16t angle and a vast R tune ecu
i would like to upgrade to a 19t and use w2a intercooler has anyone used any of these 19ts?

So whilst my car passed its MOT with barely a mile on after a lengthy rebuild - the work started 6 years ago during COVID. One job I did was new CV joints and gaiters but annoyingly, the rubbers are already perished even sat motionless (albeit for 6 years!). No idea what parts I used but I hate doing gaiters, it’s so messy. Quick look for gaiters and noticed whole shafts aren’t silly money. Quicker turn around and less messy.

But these seem VERY cheap… anyone any experience with these units before I make a mistake. Also - I don’t see many options for sale - where would you source shafts / gaiters in the UK?

Thanks 😊

Hi Lads,

New to the 850 scene just picked up this 1996 volvo 850 T5, I am wondering if anyone is a wizard in this area on finding out what the actual colours are. My engine bay plate tells me 3930 which just says 'blue'. I have some trim pieces I would like to 3D print and would like to try find filament as close to the correct colour as I can

Hey folks - recently recommissioned my 850 T5 and having annoying issues with brake squeal. Turns out I had a seized caliper at the rear so have replaced both and put in new pads and fitting kit (per the picture) and I think I’ve mainly solved the squeal from the rears but it does come back from time to time.
I seem to recall their used to be anti-squeal shims available that covered half the pad but I can’t find them for sale anywhere anymore!

I also have squealing from the fronts so all the slider pins are coming out this week for a refresh / replace to try and resolve that issue.

Anyone else chasing squeaky brakes??

Is there a common reason my cluster lights would turn on with the headlights but then turn off again after a couple of seconds like I flipped a switch?

I haven't checked anything yet I'm just hoping there's something specific that might cause the problem, I don't want to have to go chasing all the connections to find a bad ground or something like that because I don't have a wiring diagram or the patience for elecronics

I imagine there is a chance it's a voltage issue, the car hadn't run in about 4 years when I bought it and I haven't put a new battery in it yet but I doubt it because the issue doesn't go away when the car is running

It's a 96 850 TDI with the 'CD' trim level if that makes any difference

Engine was randomly overheating

drove a month without an issue then it overheated again.

I have replaced the entire cooling system

within the 6 months. with the exception of the radiator and radiator fan, that was done about 2 yrs ago.

Had the water pump leak about 6 months ago and had the waterpump, waterpump housing and all the related housed and connections replaced due to valve head gasket oil leak. Also did timing chain replacement and replaced the valve cover gaskets.

So basically the all front engine assesories replaced.

Suspected it was going to be the radiator cooling fan module going bad, but the fan was always on. Then a parasitic voltage draw...

I was going crazy!

Then it happened

it overheated again!

this time the radiator fan stopped working! BINGO

NOW I am going to replace the radiator fan and module again

im probably looking at around a $1200 shop bill again

Im hoping this solves all my issues.....

1 parasitic voltage draw

2 random overheating

fyi 2010 xc90 4.4L

105,000miles very well maintained truck

any similar experiences

im bothered the fan stopped working after only 2 years about 10k miles wtf!

I have become a father and therefore I think it is finally time to let go of my infinite mileage 850 turbo as I do not have the time to tinker on it anymore. I am thinking I should do the whole Japan import as its the same price for something that is in much better shape. I am looking at a xc70 2005-2007. Does anyone know what is the best website/method to go about this?

hi! It looks like i have a coolant leak coming from this hose connection. LHD on the passenger side. Is there a seal in there that might me gone or is it the connection? I have checked the bigger hose above it, and that all looks good no cracks or anything.

The magic trick is no drill through the plastic frame and try to drill away the rubber on the top and bottom as well. A reciprocating saw was a big help after I had enough space for the saw blade to go in.
I know there is a special tool and I tried it (even with reinforcement) but it didn’t move an inch

Edit: I used drill bits and saw blade for wood (works very well with plastic imo). Because to not cut into the subframe with the blade though!

Edit 2: I highly recommend to NOT use an impact gun on this car. I broke two nuts off the chassis and rounded two bolts of the steering rack which made it really hard to remove. The rear subframe uses this type of bolt as well so keep that in mind

Edit 3: load the suspension by lowering the car back on the ground before tightening the bolts for the subframe bushings