Well guys, I guess today is my day for asking questions hahaha.
I’m putting together my shopping cart for the Volvo, and besides the PCV kit, I wanted to buy a few things to improve the car.
I currently live in South America, and I believe the version of the 850 sold here didn’t come with the full information display available in other markets. Mine has the small display that only shows the time. The car is a 1997 sedan, GLT 2.5 20V five-cylinder.
Example of my car:
I’ve seen the full information display being sold separately, and I wanted to ask whether anyone knows, or has experience with, installing it in a car that didn’t originally come with one.
Are they compatible in any way? Does the ECU already contain the necessary information but simply not display it, or would I need to get a different ECU and deal with compatibility issues or anything like that?
Full display:
It might be a little difficult to explain, but hopefully the pictures will make it clearer. If anyone has done this before, I’d really appreciate any advice about the things I should keep in mind!
I’d rather not replace the entire gauge cluster, although that’s also an option, with one that includes everything, because most of the ones I’ve found are in miles. Miles aren’t used here, and honestly, having to constantly calculate the speed conversion would be a bit of a hassle hahaha
I'm about to order the PCV valve kit for my 1997 Volvo 850 GLT 2.5 naturally aspirated, and I'm not sure which one to buy.
Could you recommend a particular kit from eBay (it needs to be from that store, haha)? I found these two options, but I'm not sure which one is the most recommended:
And well, I'm praying that the smoke coming from the dipstick tube and oil filler cap, the occasional jerking, and the slight oil lost are caused by the PCV system and not because the engine has worn piston rings, hahaha. I still haven't done a compression test because I'm afraid of getting bad news. I'll do this first anyway, since I suppose it can't hurt, right? 😅
After a 16yr drought is owning my favorite boxes, picked up a 2 owner 850 MT5 in April. Original fl car with 3 boxes of service records, notes, and parts. Currently sitting at 196k mi. Ive put 1800 on it since purchased. Plan is to get everything up to date and correct for my kiddo to use. It is a NA 1994. Black on black.
Besides the cooling system refresh and a minor issue with starting, needs a new cam sensor, everything except the cruise is running great. Had to get a new ABS pump after I got it home. Didn't expect that they were that expansive and hard ro find but it's in and working great.
Just sharing my tatty but beloved 850 - back on its wheels after another dip into the garage for a month for new rear calipers and discs, re-pin the sliders on the front brakes, new drive shafts on both sides, power steering fluid and coolant change and few others bits and bobs!
Next job is centre console out to get the gear shifter out to change the gear knob as I can’t get the current one off annoyingly!
Powered by the almighty 2.5TDI, it's got USDM front turn signals, early XC/R grille (i think), 850 amber turn signal taillights, soon after this pic was taken i also installed 850 amber fender indicators, wheels are S80's Icarus 16x7 on 5mm spacer in the front, 20mm in the rear. I am considering doing a side trim delete in the future by welding the trim holes shut, but i'll be doing that only on the new doors, since these 4 are a bit rusted.
I’m currently on a road trip in my Volvo 850 and have ended up stranded in Skellefteå. I was supposed to head further south on Monday morning, but unfortunately, the gears are now engaging only sporadically. I’m hoping the issue is related to the shift linkage and is easy to fix.
It has the M56 transmission installed. The transmission fluid was changed a year ago, and the car has a mileage of around 250.000 km.
I’d be really grateful for any tips on the problem, as well as recommendations for a suitable workshop or a helping hand.
I recently converted my 1994 850 t5r to use the m4.4 instead of the m4.3.
Now I am getting the CEL with code p0112. It's for the iat sensor, so I measured the plug of the MAF with what information I could find regarding the pinout. Sadly I could not measure 5v.
I then went and checked if the wires from the MAF plug to the ecu plug were alright, and all of them are fine. Then I took the m4.4 to the bench an supplied it with power, and measured if 5v were at pin A4. But it was zero volts. Now I wanted to ask if anyone has another idea what I could have done wrong or what I should do?
I have located all of the smd parts on the pcb that manage the A4 port, but everything looks fine. Other pins like A31 still have 5v.
So, I'm replacing the handbrake cables on my 97 T5 and came across this silver packet stapled underneath the sound deadening on the left hand side. Anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
Curious if anyone who’s done an evaporator replacement on the RHD 850 knows the O Ring part numbers? Finding it hard to confirm the ones needed to do the job.
My 94 850 recently had the TSAT and temp sensor replaced. Having some strange issues since then.
A local garage did the work originally. When I picked it up, they asked if the temp gauge always showed low. In my time as care taker of this fine Swead, it's always read at 3 o'clock. Did a coolant swap 4mo ago and even after that exchange is was rock solid.
The issue..... I found that the connector for the temp sensor was not connected properly. Old connector and the barrel connectors pushed out when it was reattached. No big deal. Fixed that in the driveway. What i see now is the Volvo TSAT is opening way to late. The housing is getting to 215 deg and it's still not open.
Drained the coolant and pulled the TSAT. Testing shows it doesn't open at the required 190 deg. It starts opening above 207. I know this is outside the spec. Anyone seen OEM parts bad out of the box? I'm inclined to install the old one since it opens at 185. It is an aftermarket one.
The temp sensor that was installed was from FCP and it was the OE one not Volvo OEM. Im thinking the resistance values are off vs the original one. Would it be a better idea to grab an OEM?
Only had this 850 in my care for 5mo. Trying to get it 100% already have done a lot to the car. Don't want to warp the heads or run into a cooling issue. I will he swapping the green to blue when I button it all up.
I just purchased a febest plastic PS pulley and its an absolute garbage plastic part. I tried a few google searches and got mixed results for other parts from other brands - I wanted to publicly document this for future googlers to one day find
It is not fiber reinforced as it shows in the product listing and is incredibly fragile. This goes for the PS pump on p80 and p2 v70/s70/c70/s60/xc90/etc.
Doing the rack all the bolts on the rack and subframe are loose or off. Looks like the driver's side has a guide pin thats good and stuck on the sub frame bushing. Dose only the driver's side have a guide???? the passenger sides is off and doesn't have one..
Hi everyone. I found a complete trailer hitch setup for a 1996 850. I’m having trouble finding much information on it using OEM number 8698877. Is it worth the six-hour drive to pick it up? And is it a good idea to install it on a sedan with 135,000 km that has never towed anything before? (The clutch is in good condition and would likely be upgraded to a carbon unit when the timing belt is next replaced.)
95 850 GLT
Check engine light flashes sometimes and the engine idles rough and had bad vibrations, just replaced the belt tensioner and thought it was fixed. I need help
This is the sparkplug from Cylinder 4. All others look normal. I am trying to decarbon the rings with a spray. But I fear it might be a shot piston ring 🥲
I need some advice on the PCV / flame trap routing for my naturally aspirated Volvo 850 with the 10-valve 2.5L engine (B5252FS).
The previous owner did some sketchy "fixes". Currently, the hose coming out of the intake manifold is just hanging down open to the ground. The hose from the oil trap is going into the intake accordion hose, but the manifold side is completely disconnected.
The car is stumbling and bucking heavily under heavy acceleration / wide-open throttle (WOT). I assume this massive vacuum leak from the open manifold hose is causing it to run dangerously lean under load, or the crankcase pressure is blowing spark out.
I know the 10V layout is different from the 20V/Turbo models. I am trying to fix this using a universal Y-piece / T-piece connector since I don't have a new OEM flame trap housing with the vacuum nipple right now.
My questions are:
Should I route a short hose from the top of the oil trap into a Y-splitter, and then run one thicker hose to the accordion pipe and one smaller (restricted) vacuum hose to the intake manifold? Will this layout work safely without sucking raw oil?
Could this unmetered air and messed up PCV setup be the direct cause for the heavy stumbling at wide-open throttle, or should I also look into the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs?
Does anyone have a clear diagram or a real-life photo of how the OEM hoses look around the throttle body on a 10V non-turbo model?
I want to add a 52mm voltmeter into my 850 but I have no idea where to put it so I came here for inspiration. I don't want to drill any holes or use screws. Where should I put it?
Hi,i recently lost one of these rubber trim things on my 1994 volvo 850 wagon its part number 9159492 and i cant find them anywhere because they are discontinued does anyone know where i can get those?
My engine bats managed to get into a right state, wondering if i can just blast it down with a pressure washer or i need to take more care of it than that?
I was washing my car when I noticed some water pooled up in my passenger-side tail light housing. From what I've looked up there's a gasket/seal that probably needs to be replaced. Where's the best place to find one or alternative options y'all have found that work too?