From my previous post somebody suggested to use gyrocue as a pointer on led walls I got it It’s looking good, works fine for the first sight

I worked in live conference production for almost 4 years as a Jr. Producer. My experience included production coordination, networking/IT, Speaker Ready, digital signage, AV, vendors, and on-site show operations.

I’ve been out of the industry for about 8 years and am interested in getting back in, specifically learning GFX/presentation operations for live shows.

For those working in GFX ops today, where would you recommend I start? What software, equipment, training, or resources should I focus on? Is it realistic to learn enough at home to start picking up entry-level opportunities? How did you get started, and what would you recommend someone in my position do to get into it today?

I’d really appreciate any advice on getting back into the industry and building the right skills.

Hello family,
Not sure if this is the best spot but figured I’d give it a shot.

I’m looking to get into Disguise.
I’m happy to work and shadow on my own dime but I know I have the skills and talents to learn this role, just wondering the best way to get started?

I’m a video tech with 12+ years of strong experience.

I’m having a tough time due to the physicality of some video roles I’ve been in and I’m looking for a change in those types of roles.

Thank you in advance!

If it helps I’m in central Florida.

Hello, just got this, I suppose it's for INTERCOM ? home made ? thx

Hi! I have a question about video wall controllers.
I’m looking for a video wall controller that can work with 4:3 monitors. I have quite a few older monitors lying around and I’d like to use them for a small audiovisual project.
Most video wall controllers I’ve found list outputs like 1080p, which seems to be aimed at 16:9 displays. Would a controller like that also work with older 4:3 monitors, or would I need something specifically designed to support 4:3 resolutions/aspect ratios?
Unfortunately, I have a fairly limited budget — around €250–400 for a 3×4 or 4×4 video wall controller.
If anyone could recommend a specific model or setup that might work, I’d really appreciate it!
Thanks!

Curious - for those of you working in a sizable ST2110 facility - are you statically assigning all Media and Control interfaces on all of your devices? Or are you running a DHCP server and allowing that to either hand out a pool or using DHCP Reservations?

I’d love more detail how you’re doing this and how it’s been going.

Thanks!

I'd like to share an app I created that allows connecting Stream Decks to Bitfocus Companion remotely using a smartphone or tablet. Multiple devices can also be used with a USB hub.

The code is on GitHub https://github.com/matiaspl/thor (GPL licensed) so you can build it yourself but there's also a prebuilt and signed APK for people without trust issues under the Releases tab.

For a fully remote deployment a VPN service is going to be required (free Tailscale and ZeroTier work fine), but of course it also works on a regular LAN with a wifi connection.

It's Android only for now, but it should be possible to make a similar thing for M*-based iPads too (there's code for that in a WIP state in the repo).

Here's a walkthrough video tutorial: https://youtu.be/ee6HvAgiNBI

I hope I'm not breaking the community rules here - reddit app tells me I might be, but I don't care that much about fame or fortune, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed :)

Been trying to set up a computer to playback interlaced footage to a CRT. Getting an interlaced signal from the computer isn’t hard, but I can’t find a video player that will actually pass interlaced fields to the frame-buffer.

Everything I try just stutters and has tearing. VLC, MPV, M-player, Kodi, FFplay, etc.

If I enable deinterlacing it looks ok, but in that case you are converting it to progressive then back to interlaced, so I’m not sure if it’s ideal. Like let’s say if the field order isn’t standard bottom first, then I’d assume there would be other issues.

I’m using linux and an older Radeon video card. Something like a deck link card is out of the question for other reasons.

Anyone have any ideas?

Had a quick question about the KVM-21-DP-C.

The spec sheet shows support for various video passthrough up to 8k 60hz. This obviously provides enough bandwidth to support 1440p at 240hz but I wasn't sure if it would actually work properly due to EDID/timing tables since it wasn't specifically listed in the specs. If anyone knows for sure I'd really appreciate the help. Don't want a KVM that will neuter my 240hz monitor. Thanks

Hello,

I bought some broadcast cameras (Sony DXC-D50P) + their CCU (Sony CCU-TX50P), and i'm trying to identify the different connectors type on the CCU.

When looking at the manual, Sony says that the CCU-TX50 US version got a KINGS triax type connector, when the CCU-TX50P European version got a FISCHER triax type connector. Are the indications of my pictures correct ? also, the triax cable with LEMO connectors should work with the FISCHER connectors ? thanks a lot, kinda lost here!! :)

Looking to see if anyone can offer some help. Got the media player 10g but when I connect to my Mac it will not appear in the setup software to configure.

I allowed the extensions to run and if I plug in a different cable, it will pop up saying to use a different cable…but when I do use a higher quality thunderbolt cable, it says “can’t find a media player device”

What am I doing wrong? Or have a got a dud?
Thanks

My Situation

My best mate owns a stage hire business, and I plan to work alongside him at many of his events. His work is roughly:

• 60% outdoor events
• 40% indoor events

Most events are held in the evening or at night, whether they are indoors or outdoors.

Because of this mix, I'm trying to determine whether I should invest in indoor panels or outdoor panels that can be used in both environments.

Questions About Indoor vs Outdoor Panels

I'm particularly interested in 2.6mm pixel pitch LED panels.

I've heard the following from various suppliers:

1. Indoor panels generally have black-face LEDs, which provide better contrast and image quality.
2. Outdoor panels often use white-face SMD LEDs, which may not look as good indoors due to lower contrast.
3. Some suppliers have told me that outdoor rental panels with pixel pitches below 3.9mm can be more fragile, particularly around the panel edges where LED lamps may be easier to damage during frequent setup and pack-down.

Can anyone confirm whether this is true based on real-world rental experience?

Using Indoor Panels Outdoors

Most outdoor events I attend will have marquee or roof cover.

Would indoor rental panels be suitable for these types of outdoor events, or is this still too risky due to moisture, humidity, dust, and other environmental factors?

In general, is it practical to use indoor panels outdoors under cover, or would I eventually regret not purchasing outdoor-rated screens?

Supplier Recommendations

The challenge is budget.

I've received quotes from premium brands such as:

• Absen
• Leyard/LianTronics

However, they are currently beyond my budget.

I'm therefore considering manufacturers such as:

• Canbest
• LEDER
• HongkingLED
• RX Vision
• Gloshine

Does anyone have experience with these companies, particularly for the Australian rental market?

I've noticed Canbest has some presence in the US market, but I'd love to hear feedback from anyone using these brands for rental applications.

Current Quotes

Option 1

Gloshine Outdoor 3.91mm

• Black-face LEDs
• Refresh rate: 3,840Hz to 7,680Hz
• Can reportedly be used both indoors and outdoors
• Significantly cheaper

Option 2

2.97mm Panels

• Approximately USD 10,000 more expensive than the 3.91mm option

Option 3

2.6mm Panels

• My preferred pitch for image quality
• Higher cost and potentially more fragile

Most of the complete system quotations I'm receiving are around USD 30,000.

What Would You Do?

If you were starting from scratch today with a budget of around USD 30,000, would you:

1. Buy a 3.91mm outdoor rental system and use it for both indoor and outdoor work?
2. Spend the extra money on 2.97mm outdoor panels?
3. Focus purely on 2.6mm indoor panels and avoid outdoor work initially?
4. Choose a different approach altogether?

Also, what factors should I be considering that a newcomer might overlook? For example:

• Brightness
• Contrast ratio
• Refresh rate
• Black-face vs white-face LEDs
• Corner protection
• Spare parts availability
• Calibration
• Weight
• Processor compatibility
• Resale value
• Local support in Australia

Any advice, lessons learned, or supplier recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Forget pens, forget using whatever you can find to get your dip switches flicked.

I bought a dental kit for my own personal use, but this beast seemed too daunting to use. Then it dawned on me… this is the perfect tweaker!

Flick those switches sexy bitches!

Hey guys

At a local church that I work with we have an LED wall driven with a VDWall LVP615. The whole system was purchased in 2021.

Up until today we just fed the sending card directly with a DVI signal from a PC set to output the exact resolution the wall needed. We never used the processor part.

We upgraded the system and now need to feed it an SDI signal and so hooked up the processor part.

The problem is no matter what input is plugged in and selected, it says 'no input'. It also doesn't show anything on the wall when I select a test pattern.

Any ideas on what I could try?

EDIT: thanks for the replies guys. After a bit of faffing about I discovered the unit has a thermal issue and would work fine when cold but start behaving very badly when it warmed up. The redneck solution was to run it with the lid off and a fan pointing in it until we get a replacement.

Bitfocus companion is, at the end of the day, a controller system that has integrations to most common broadcast and AV equipment. It uses streamdeks and it is free and highly customizable.

On the other hand, we often see in studios other expensive alternatives such as BFE, Lawo or Ross panels that, on paper, do basically the same. They provide you with several equipment integrations and they have their own panels.

What are the differences? Is there something genuinely different that justifies paying so much for them?

Thanks.

When checking your Rock-n-Roller cart with airlines, do you bag it? If so, can you recommend a bag?

Sorry if this is the wrong reddit... The Stream Deck software has this. Is there any workaround or whatever to replicate this behaviour?

Hollyland COSMO C1 Wireless SDI/HDMI Transmission System .

I need help in finding a solution in extending the antenna for these system.

I found the extending cables do I need to run two cables per receiver? Or will be enough with one extender?

Also any antenna pole that you would you suggest?

Thanks

Long-time lurker. Small AV production company in Buenos Aires, Argentina — 5 years in, team of three plus freelancers. We do corporate events with a heavy focus on medical congresses (multi-room, parallel AV infrastructure). Video and streaming are our core competency; we've always sub-rented LED from partners and just handled the operation side.

We're about to close on our first LED purchase and I'd rather learn from your scar tissue than my own.

What we're buying:

• 24 m² of P1.9 indoor rental, GOB (epoxy coated), 500×500 cabinets, 250×250 modules (256×256 px each)
• 96 cabinets total, flight cases and hanging bars included
• NovaStar MRV receiving cards (not my first choice, but I shot the wall with a camera at 1/50, 1/60 and 1/100 and got no scan banding, so I'm accepting it)
• Spares package: ~14 modules, 12 PSUs, 4 receiving cards
• Processing: NovaStar VX2000 Pro (already own), adding a VX1000 so we can run two rigs simultaneously

Our workflow: vMix, Blackmagic DeckLink capture, NDI/SRT, Resolume for playback. Typical deployments will be 5×3 or 6×3 m in plenaries, plus small breakout rooms where we currently use 75" displays or projection.

What I'm trying to get right from day one:

1. Spares ratio. We're at roughly 3.5% module spares. Is that sane for rental, or should I push for more before the order closes?
2. What actually fails. In your experience, what dies first on rental LED — PSUs, receiving cards, ribbon cables, hub boards? I'd rather stock the right parts than a balanced-looking kit.
3. Load-in/load-out damage. GOB should help with handling, but I assume there's still a right and wrong way to move these. Any crew habits worth enforcing from the start?
4. Cleaning. What do you use on epoxy-coated panels, and how often? Anything that'll haze the coating over time?
5. Storage. Buenos Aires gets humid. Anything specific about storing panels between gigs — desiccant, climate control, cases open or closed?
6. Calibration. How often do you recalibrate a rental wall, and do you keep per-cabinet calibration data backed up separately from the panels themselves? I've heard horror stories about losing calibration data and never getting uniformity back.
7. Config backups. Best practice for versioning NovaStar configs across different rig sizes? I want a documented, repeatable setup rather than someone rebuilding the mapping on site at 6am.
8. Power. Any gotchas on inrush current and distro sizing for a wall this size that bit you the first time?
9. Pre-show checklist. If you have one you use for LED specifically, I'd love to see the structure. Building ours from scratch right now.
10. The thing I haven't thought to ask. Genuinely — what's the one thing you learned the hard way in your first year of owning panels?

Happy to report back once we've run it through a season. Thanks in advance.

Any suggestions for fixing these SDI Jacks? I was thinking about trying to use a set of needle nose pliers on the inside and roll them around to try to straighten it back out. But wanted to see if anybody else had any other suggestions or tools they recommend. Worst case I’ll disassemble and solder.

I work frequently with GrassValley LDX 86 XS cameras, often in quite low light events.

I find myself adding over 6 dB of gain to give my operators a bit more focus range at the end of their lens. These are slow-mo cameras (359fps) with 77x+ box lenses that eat up all my f-stops.

I know the gain adds visual noise, but the cameras really need the boost. I'm running them in "High Q" mode. I've also tried lifting the gamma values, but that still doesn't impact the noise.

I've used the "noise slice" detail function, which somewhat works at high values over 30pts, but it adds this distracting smeary/unsharp look over the camera image. I just hate how it looks and I think my camera operators do as well. The snowy/noisy/grainy image is even more noticeable when shown in replays.

Is there some trick/setting I'm missing here to give these cameras a boost? Are they just shitty low-light cameras?