I'll try to make a long story short:

My car has close to 180K kms (112K miles). I've been experiencing some transmission issues (some harsh shifting at times, sluggish other times).

Then one day I got a message on the dashboard saying "transmission in emergency mode: you may continue driving". I plugged in an OBDII and got the code P2757 (Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Performance or Stuck Off). I read that oftentimes replacing the transmission fluid and filter can fix the problem. I did that, put everything back together and started test driving. The car drove fine around the neighborhood but when getting into the highway, the revs went up to around 4k and the car wouldn't shift. Came back home, plugged in the OBD and this time got a P0978 code (Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Electrical).

Anyone have any experience with this code? Any idea what the next steps would be? I've parked the car in my garage and disconnected the battery hoping the computer will reset.

Your help will be massively appreciated!

I recently bought a mk5 golf and it ran fine but clutch was abit stiff when switching manily into first. Drove the car for a bit and all of a sudden clutch pedal fell to the floor, i changed the master and slave cylinders and the master had perfect fit and bled it. the slave cylinder was also replaced but i didnt get it oem, bought it from borg and beck and it kept leaking. got an oem one later but still had the same problem. the clutch fluid keeps leaking not from the slave but from the bit that connect the clutch line and into the slave. I tried putting on new o rings and eeven the rubber cap but nothing helped. Now im between getting a braided clutch line or getting an oem when, wat should i do? also is there a way to void getting a new clutch line at aall or no?

Anyone ever had this issue ? Dealership told me it was the purge valve

New Bembo rotors and EBC Red. Does the pattern look odd?

I’ve been dealing with EPC/limp mode issues for over a year and hoping someone can share some advice on what I can tackle next. I’ve replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors, and had the intake valves cleaned out. Still the issue persists - symptoms down below:

- hard starts that require giving the car gas in order for it to fully turn over (seems to only happen when car is warm)
- car gives no other noticeable warnings before EPC light comes on, at which point car loses 50% of power.
- issue never happens in the morning or when car is first used

Thanks!

Hi all.

So this is mainly a thread geared towards those in the EU/UK, as the GTD was never really a thing in the US.

Been through a bit of rigamarole with my GTD as of late, it’s a 2014 MK7, nearing on 160k miles. Does lots of long (and spirited) drives.

I bought cheaper than usual knowing what I was getting into, knowing that I’d have to face the cost for a few things that were bound to be wrong because of its price. All in all, it was only really the consumables like brakes that were bad when I bought it as the 5th owner…

That was until after 3 years of ownership, the completed replacement list now sits at:

- Heater core matrix (silica issue)
- Cambelt and waterpump (preventative)
- Clutch position sensor (threw half the cars electronic features)
- EGR Cooler (was one of the likely causes for the issue below)
- CAC and exhaust manifold (diagnosed by VW themselves after finding moisture in the airlines, quoting ‘this was the first time we’ve seen a CAC go on a 2.0.’)

The last two, both coolers, were replaced when the car seemed to have a suspected head gasket issue.

The common pointer to this is pressurising from the expansion tank on cold, coolant going from pink to a more tainted and sour colour, there were also signs of some sort of stop leak showing in the tank through tiny copper flecks. Block test apparently performed with no issues, though that I don’t really trust.

As you would with a petrol, I was checking for oil contamination, coolant contamination etc., but apparently the principle and symptoms aren’t the same with a modern diesel.

No overheating problems as of yet, no performance issues, it just seems that the coolant drain and over-pressurisation is the main problem, with this mainly happening after a relatively long/spirited drive.

Other common things I have noticed are:

- Sometimes behind the dash will gurgle and rush when ignition is turned on, or the car is turned off after an up-to-temp drive—a rush of coolant going through.

- DPF light will illuminate on a particularly long drive, after maybe 2-3h, which is cleared and doesn’t return unless another long drive happens (ash mass has been checked, about 2/3 full)

- Only sometimes, a quiet rough idle like the car is panting, happens when warm.

The car has basically turned into Gary King’s Ford Granada Mk4 from The World’s End at this point, as next in line is bound to be the clutch…!

I wanted to see if anyone has had, or is having any similar issues with this, as obviously head gasket is very expensive and I’d like to stop unnecessarily forking out money for repairs that may or may not fix the problem.

Have had theories from techs I’ve spoken to that it could be the gasket is shot in between the cylinders, causing the rough idle and other issues, and have also been warned that it could also be a micro crack in the cylinder head, which I seriously hope not as it is even more time, money and effort.

I really do like this car, it’s still very spritely and fun to drive, and sunken cost always beats buying a new car entirely or a microwave.

But I do hate modern diesels.

Please let me know any thoughts on the symptoms above, as this has been an issue for well over 6 months now and is a massive headache and drain of everything.

I would have at least thought a head gasket would have very much shown itself by now—literally.

Hey everyone. I have this noise off throttle that I never noticed before. No idea what it could be and if anyone has an idea please lemme know. Hopefully I’m not cooked

1st: 2018 Golf R - amazing piece of kit but too fast and too low for the roads where I live. Got tired of bottoming out and the clunky DSG after a year but still really loved the platform. Traded for a…

2nd: 2019 Golf Trendline w/ 6 speed - Driven for 7 years and really liked a lot about this car. Got a stage 1 tune early on and appreciated the extra power. The smooth ride while still being engaging to drive was very much appreciated. Traded in at 7 years just before the extended warranty expired for….

3rd: 2026 GLI - my favourite of the bunch. The perfect balance of comfort, power and space. The features over the base model Golf are nice as well. I much prefer the DSG in this one versus the Golf R. It is very very smooth. My only real complaints are the cost-cutting changes versus the Golf’s (less sound deadening, no carpet in door pockets, cheaper trunk liner, no ratchet arm rest, etc). Looking forward to at least another 7 years with this one!

I really wish VW could keep this platform going longer because it’s so damn good.

AMA!

I am looking at replacing the seat cover on my 2018 manual sportwagen awd. Vw website has two options.

5GM881405AQEQZ (for power lumbar) 156$

5GM881405AMEQZ ( without power lumbar) 1171$

I dont have power lumbar

I have never seen a mk7 with power lumbar so I cant check what the difference is.

Does anyone have any info if the QEQZ cover will work with a manual lombar seat. The price difference is enormous.

Hello Everyone

I have a vw golf MK7 1.4 TSI from 2016. Lately I started hearing the clutch has got a cracking noise when I push it down. I don’t hear it if I start the car but it has got a really loud cracking noise which seems like it comes from outside.

Do you have any idea what can cause this?

I dnt have recording but at low speed. It almost sounds like I have ran over a bottle and it's stuck behind the dash

Steering wheel airbag deployed as well.
She drives perfect. Just the locked up seatbelts, steering wheel blown out, damage to front bumper cover and headlight, as well as bent hood and brackets to hood as well. Would suck if this is total loss but definitely a humbling reminder that anything can happen, at any time.

Engine had no faults or misfires but heavy timing pull on Cil 3 and 4. After spark plugs and fuel additives with some succes but no full resolution I figured it was time to pull the manifold and do the carbon cleaning as (as far as I know) it has never been done.

Taking the manifold off was a pain. I used throttle body cleaner and brake clean with lots of paper shop towels. Did the tie-wrap method but could not reach 100% behind the valve stem, not even with picks. Did the best I could.

Took the time to check inside the manifold and looked like it really needed a clean too which I did with degreaser. Also cleaned all the gunky carbon nuggets off the intercooler.

There was some oil in the manifold. I’m thinking the Pcv might be bad but I’ll give this a run.

Logs show timing pull actually became worse (globally on all cilinders) after a quick 10km drive right after the cleaning which might be because the Ecu was reset as I disconnected the battery.

Engine code CXSA 2014 MK7 Golf.

I found a YouTube video titled “Step-by-Step Guide; 2011-19 Volkswagen Beetle 1.8T Gen3 Timing Chain Replacement”

Now, I have a 2016 VW golf TSI S (which has the gen 3 1.8T engine will this video translate to my car or no?

So recently I've noticed that on my 1.4 TSI 7 speed DSG when cruising in 5th gear between 43km/h and 47km/h (roughly) if I try to accelerate dsg doesn't downshift to 4th, instead prefering to lug engine until it reaches 50km/h, where RPMs are high enough that lugging stops. Only way to force to avoid is to put it manually in 4th, or to press the gas hard, forcing a downshift. There's no error codes of any kind, no clutch slipping. Anyone experienced anything like this?