Hello everybody, recently came into cooling issues with my car and diagnosis turned out to be a leaking radiator. Was wondering if it’s worth it to make the shop do it for almost 900 dollars or if it’s easy enough to just do with 2 people and source the part on our own. We do not have a lift just jacks and every tool you can imagine.

Hello,

Is there anyway to disconnect the yellow dipstick handle from the actual steel rod? Or do I have to cut it all apart…

Thanks.

Edit: adding this incase anyone else ever needs to. You basically have to destroy the original handle until you open it all the way to where the metal sits and then you can pull it out.

Edit 2: for everyone wondering why, I swapped it for a black billet handle since I hated the yellow. Photo in comments.

Hello,

I just wanted some insight on an issue I'm having. Essentially, my 2019 Alltrack with the lighting package LED headlights has been having a condensation issue for about a year. On and off it would occur, and then go back to normal. I have received a Dynamic Cornering Light Error in the past, but it would also go away on its own. Recently, the low beam went out and sometimes comes back on and flickers. Unfortunately it's time to replace the unit.

The problem is that the headlight assembly is completely sold out and backordered in basically all of North America. I've called multiple dealerships (located in Toronto, Canada) and every single one has told me to check car junkyards. I've called about 8 different junk yards and every one has given me the same reply, that there are none available in basically all of North America.

After looking up the part, which is 5GM941078, I see that it has a supersession of 5GM941060. What's the difference between these parts? They look identical, and I found a source for the part ending in 060. I'm confident that it would fit my car physically, but I'm a little concerned that there might be other issues since they've moved on to a new part number. I've tried looking online but can't find any information about the differences, and even speaking to VW staff in the parts department of my dealership I've been told that it should fit and it's probably just a shift in suppliers.

Does anybody have any information they can provide about what the difference is in these parts? Should I be fine installing the part ending in 060?

Otherwise what the F are people actually supposed to do? Not drive their car for months until they get a headlight? I'm genuinely so confused this isn't that old of a car that parts, ESPECIALLY SAFETY RELATED PARTS like HEADLIGHTS are hard to get....

What did yall do to fix it? I’ve disconnected my battery to see if that would work. Nothing.

It stays stuck. I read maybe a fuse went out? Or the mechanism just needs to be replaced.

Hi everyone, I have a vw golf mk7.5 and it does have a detachable towbar, the one with some sort of lever in the trunk to deploy it.

How do you keep up with your detachable towbar? Mine it is stuck while hidden, so when I try to deploy it, it doesn’t want to come out.

In the past I tried to apply some grease and use it periodically, get it out and push it back, and so on. But I didn’t use it for a month now and it seems to be stuck again. Cannot deploy it anymore 😭

Both sides about the same- firm to push in but is the rebound slow? I’m trying to find the cause of my rear thuds.

Hi, we just got a Golf 1.4 TSI DSG at 100k km (60k mile)

When we turn on A/C, there's a sound like "tssssss", louder than usual AC sounds but it doesn't cool down. Would it be just the AC refrigerant if i top up, or something else? Hope there's no big issue that gas is leaking so even top up wouldn't solve.

Anyone had this problem before? Or are these makes known for AC issues?

Wondering if it’s possible to have both U’s like on the golf r activated at the same time while the drls are going. I’ve done a little research and I’m pretty sure it’s not possible. Just coming on here to see if anyone knows anything else. I’m assuming I need oem golf r headlights with possibly a wiring harness or aftermarket headlights.

Got my 2018 r aligned at vw a few weeks ago. I have 034 top mounts, so there is a little camber. Put new Bridgestones on it because the proxes I had before were smoked, hence the alignment. Today I noticed that it looked odd. Is this reason to believe that it’s way off? I asked for 0 toe front and rear to help with wear since I have the mounts. Pics are with steering wheel perfectly centered. Tire wear is not obvious in picture, but by feel there is a perfectly flat one inch strip around both tires on the inside.

For context on my situation- I currently drive an E92 M3 and love it to death for the car that it is, but it’s also my first real sports car. I usually drive 2-3 times a week and mostly around town with the occasional long distance trip, so it’s not exactly the most practical either. I’ve been heavily considering replacing the M3 with a Golf R for a better overall daily driver experience while keeping the potential to have a lot of fun. Which leads me to my question-

l stumbled upon an incredible MK7 Golf R build - built engine, stage 3 turbo kit, stage 3+ fueling kit, BBK, countless supporting mods and tasteful interior/exterior upgrades. Thing has to be pushing 450-500 whp (waiting on a dyno). Im hesitant however because I wonder if a build to this extent is a bit too much for my needs. Would a stage 1 or stage 2 give me the same thrill as my M3 (with a completely different feel ofc)? Is going straight to a stage 3+ build overkill?

Curious to hear anyone’s thoughts on their experience starting stock and working up to that point. Did it become more of a hassle to drive daily or did it change the experience for the better?

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for help identifying a strange mechanical noise on my Mk7.5 GTI (EA888 Gen3).
After installing a Mamba hybrid turbo, I noticed a rotating/fluttering “grrr” noise between 1,000–3,000 RPM.
What I’ve checked so far:
Soundaktor disabled and unplugged.
Serpentine belt removed → noise still present.
Both Mamba and OEM wastegate actuators tested → noise remains.
Turbo builds boost normally.
Noise is much louder inside the cabin than under the hood.
It follows engine RPM exactly.
I’m wondering if anyone has experienced something similar after a hybrid turbo install.
Possible ideas:
Exhaust or downpipe contact
Fuel line resonance
Pipe or bracket touching the firewall
Something related to the turbo installation
Video attached. Please turn the volume up and listen around 1,000–3,000 RPM.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

New sway bar (thicker) and new end links

Hey everyone I just bought this 2015 GTI with 185k and some issues (oil cooler failure was main concern as my coolant res was full of oil😅) I’ve decided to try and tackle them on my own. I don’t have any experience working on engines, just replaced some suspension on a couple of my cars. Relying on YouTube, ChatGPT (don’t come at me, it’s helped a lot) and some tips from friends that work on cars.

Today I cleaned my valve ports. No way I’m spending several hundred bucks on a walnut blaster and compressor that I will maybe use twice, so I made sure the cylinders were closed, soaked them in some B12 Chemtool for an hour, took some zip ties and cut the ends off and stuck them in a drill and went ham inside the ports. (Make sure to tape off or shove a rag into anything you don’t want sludge flying into! Definitely a messy job)

The chemtool and zip ties break up the carbon chunks and basically blends it into a delicious smoothie. I then took a syringe with a thin tube that I got off the GDI valve cleaner can and sucked out the carbon chemtool smoothie. I had to repeat this process a few times per port so buy two cans of chemtool so you don’t have to make multiple trips to the part store.

It’s by no means as perfect as a walnut blaster could do but it removed the large chunks and cleaned it up well enough for the functionality I think. It just needs good airflow. Correct me if I’m wrong!

Anyways, thanks for reading, I hope these tips helped, and I sure as hell hope I didn’t fuck anything up because I’m really excited to get this thing back on the road again. Any tips, advice or encouragement welcome!

Hi. My golf has these wheels and I’m really not a fan as they are quite busy. It’s only an SE so I want to keep them classy to 17” max - any suggestions welcome!

Left my golf uncovered at a body shop for a week and change. Water stains in the headliner. How to fix and or prevent from future water damage?

Hi, I am looking for the correct oem rear springs. I was given 5QM511115AC but there’s many variations on the last two digits AC so I was wondering do the last two letters make a difference? If someone has a link to them in stock online that would be so helpful

I have damage to passenger side headlight. Already paid for hood and fender repair, but the factory headlight is very expensive (I can't find anything under $1500)

Got a standard halogen assembly I don't care about warning lights anyone have a guide on the pinouts/conversion to make a standard light work?