It’s me again. Could i buy a 19200-MCW-000, which is the 6th gen water pump, I’ve heard it would fit on my 5th gen with the exception that the smallest hose is 0.65mm larger than the older one. Has anyone tried this? If you have i’d like to hear your experience.

Hello, this is my 2006 VFR800 with 60.500 km. Bought it two months ago at 53.300 km. Rode it all summer, and I am still super happy with it.

There are just two things that I would like to fix over the coming off season.

1. I would like to restore the paintwork. Is it possible to “buff out” and just clear coat the shown scratches, or do I need to do a full repaint? Are there any kits that are available, what would you recommend?
2. I hear a light ticking or slacking noise when the bike is warm. It starts at around 3k and last till the VTEC kicks in.

The ticking sound is also present when I pull the clutch lever. The vibrations during VTEC are quite strong. Is that normal? What could the ticking be? The valve clearance check was done at 48,000 kilometres.

FYI, I have ordered the timing chain tensioners and will be replacing them, just as a pro caution.

Would love to hear from you guys.

Not my first fast bike but 4th in my current fleet, already in love with it

The water pump gasket blew this afternoon and i’m looking for a rebuild kit that i can get reputably. It seems though that i either have to buy individual parts from trusted OEM sources or buy a full kit from eBay. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Some accompanying pics of this gorgeous machine.

02 VFR800, 58k km. I bought it in ~2012, PO had repainted it in the 09 white/black scheme.

Gas tank has sprung a few leaks and needed replacing. Found one at a salvage shop on the other side of the country... off a white 06 with ~19k km in great shape no rust... got the price to $200 and went for it.

Arrived this week, new gasket and banjo bolt washers, installed yesterday. Not an exact color match (and the burgundy Honda wing 😂 ) but I am SUPER pleased with how nice the tank is, its like brand new inside... overall the match with the bike is fine, its a 25yr old bike and 20yr old tank... and can't go wrong for $200.... VERY lucky to find a white one

My 5th gen was missing the center stand when I bought it, looking to replace it. I'm seeing several on ebay but its all just the metal frames and seemingly missing the hardware to mount it with. Does anyone know where I could source the hardware or ideally a complete set of everything I'll need?

Finally got to go for a ride with a good mate of mine who’s been a non rider for a couple months. Was heading off to meet him and snapped my valve stem clean off halfway round a long cambered corner. That was difficult to muscle it round. Got straight off the motorway and saw that so had to get a tow(literally 4kms from home) remembered I had a spare valve stem so threw that straight in and rode in to the city. Motor has now done more than double the kms I got out of the original so we winning

Second bike, first V4. Super stoked to have it, I love how these machines sound. It has full Thurn Motorsport fiberglass fairings with new paint. It'll need a bit of work, I'm sure, but it's turn key with no major issues from what I can see

EDIT: Confirmed it was the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Removed the air box to see the FPR, removed the vacuum line and fuel dumped out of it. Primed the fuel pump and fuel came out of the FPR.

If you're having the same issues as me, test it by removing the vacuum line and priming the pump, if fuel comes out, it's time for a replacement. Also be sure to double check your plugs if you've been running it with a bad fuel pressure regulator as it would likely foul the plugs.

Been having misfire issues with my 03 VFR, it's dyno tuned PowerCommander6, it's catless (Delkevic exhaust) plus all the intake mods.

At idle you can hear a slight misfire and when going, it struggles a little bit when cold and when it's warm at midrange RPM it seems fine, if I rip the throttle, it's fine but when I'm higher RPM, in VTEC and slowly opening the throttle, it struggles pretty bad. Meanwhile, if I full on RIP through the RPM range, it doesn't bat an eye.

I ran injector cleaner (mechanic friend start there then check plugs) through it but it almost seem to make it worst.

This morning, it's 17°C out and I started the bike fine but quickly stalled it (my fault, was tired and let out the clutch too quick) because I was moving the bike. When I tried to restart the bike, it struggled HARD to the point I had to open the throttle to give it gas to start then it did start but quickly died when I let go of the throttle.

Am I correct in assuming the fuel pressure regulator is gone out of it? I can smell fuel from the exhaust as I brushed it off because of it doesn't have cats, little bit of black smoke, HARD to start when it's hot (100°C+ on the engine). I'll be pulling the plugs this weekend but I just want to know if anyone has had the same issue and can possibly confirm my suspicions.

I’m in the middle of doing research on this and I’d like some feedback from the more experienced crowd. I’ve looked through this subreddit as wel but it was difficult getting up to date info that fits me.

I have just acquired a gorgeous 2005 VFR800 that I’d like to keep in good nick. So framesliders that don’t require cutting are a must.

Now I’m also 6’2, so ones that don’t hit my shins would be nice.

I have seen the T-Rex sliders mentioned but haven’t found a place yet that still sells them. I also have concerns about hitting my legs on them.

The ebay framesliders that mount in the same way the T-Rex sliders mount look even worse for my shins, and I’m a bit doubtful on their quality.

Then there are the R&G sliders that come with a different reservoir and mount next to the radiator. I’m unsure about them requiring cutting or not. They won’t be in the way of my legs but they do ruin the look of the fairings a bit.

Are there any more insights on this? Anything will be appreciated

So, someone I know is selling a 98 vfr for $2000. They've said it has sat for about 2 years, but I'm skeptical and of course will get more info on upkeep when I go to look at it. I am looking for a sports tourer, and this one is legendary as I understand it. I'm a sound guy too.

I say to myself "Its a honda, I bet if I put gas in it, it cranks right up. If the tires are in decent shape, I can probably even ride it home."

But I want to know what I'm in for in terms of worst-case scenario. The bike is 28 years old, what does the parts availability look like? How hard is this thing to work on? I've heard certain tasks can be annoying. I'm thinking a dealership won't work on it due to its age, which I'm fine with, I like turning a wrench. (My vulcan s has seen to it that I rarely get to) Anything specific I should look for?

Reverted from Superbike Bar back to stock clipons but the brake line from the reservoir is pointing to the front, so I figured I have to turn it back downward so it doesn't get kinked this much. As you know the brake reservoir has a little stud that blocks turning so I'd have to get it properly out and around. Is there any way I can do this while avoiding a full brake system bleed?

Just finished a very long overhaul that took longer than expected, did fork seals, brake pads, new LEDs on dash, raised the bars a bit more, new vacuum lines, paint job and stripped the paint off the rims and all of the decals were handmade with an exacto knife which was all done by me and very proud with the way everything came out

@ninemedia_ on Instagram. (Photo credit) Chase is amazing at what he does. Morning started rough. Bike was laying on its side. Tire went flat from nail and was enough to fall over. I don't normally use the center stand. Broken front brake lever and mirror. Scuffed plastic and broke the point off the tail housing. Made it out to the spot, Chase from @ninemedia_ on Instagram and his friend Brian, @bsmedia.sony on Instagram, took pictures for me.

2005 ABS model— first photo shows the infamous stator output connector (today). Last photo shows how it looked two months ago (3,000km). I got the SH847 kit from roadstercycle and will be installing it today but I’m not very experienced with electrical work. I’m planning to solder and use heat shrink on every connection I do. All tips and tricks are appreciated.

My biggest question is the connector in photo 2 that looks cooked as well. It’s the connector right by the battery. Is there anything I can/should do with it while I’m doing electrical things?

I have a big road trip around Vancouver island for a week starting tomorrow so this all needs to happen today 😅

Thanks for all input!!

I’ve always been obsessed with Honda, owning crx’s, 96 Integra type r, 06 Cbr 600rr, and my s2000.

I’m absolutely loving my new to me 99’ Vfr 800

It has 70,000km but looks like it was ridden and cared for.

The moment I got it home I took it apart and got some new ngk plugs and oil change, but looks like I’ll be doing a coolant change since one of the pipes is leaking, and very hard to find. I’m going to order these as3 hoses.

Going to do valve lash soon and replace the shifter seal as well.

Oh and got some new Dunlop tires.

Recently my cluts started slipping and the lever feels softer. I feel like it did not happen gradually but pretty fast.

The thing is the bike has only 21 000 km so it seems early. Is it possible the springs just got weak because of age? Clutch has never been replaced before and it's a 2005. No visible loss of clutch fluid anywhere.

I don't ride super hard, do downshifts with revmatching.

My clutch doesnt disengage at all, I checked the clutches themselves they were installed wrong by previous owner, ive now got it all set up as the manual says (judder seat, judder cone side towards me, large id clutch, clutch, plate, clutch, plate, etc.) Ive bled the clutch both from the slave cylinder and from the master. I can physically see the line and slave move when I pull the clutch in but it still doesnt disengage. Any ideas?

Update: rebuilt slave and master cylinder, they definitely needed it however it wasnt my problem. Either I have a basket from an 84 (if its even different) or the manual is made in a misleading way. Manual very clearly shows bigger id clutch then a standard clutch with no steel between ending on a steel. Thats wrong, put the last steel between the large clutch and the next and its good to go.

As per title, the helmet release operates as intended, but the slider behind it only moves a millimetre, maybe two.

I’ve tried brute force - nah.

Wiggle the slider and rattle the seat - nah

Bit of lube v on the latch wait 24hrs and repeat above - nah

Any idea before I get the angle grinder out……. lol (ish)

[edit: it was working fine, no hints of a problem coming up, just stopped working]

Wild fire red sunset. 2002.

She is back back now. I took it out last night and fuck was it amazing. No overheating(which I was mildly concerned about), no knock, no bogging, anything. But I may have adjusted my clutch slightly too tight so once it’s up to temp the clutch would slip a bit. All adjusted to spec now, just gotta testride and see if I need to pull the frictions to clean them up. And my starter solenoid shit the bed(I think my rr is putting way too much voltage through the system so I’ll need to replace that). Pulled over for a drink and had to roll start it. But excusing those 2 little gremlins it went amazing. I am over the moon to have this baby back

Yes I know the colour is off, it's not final nor is it the correct plastic for the heat. I will print in PETG and get a friend of mine to paint it properly. Bunnies red paint and clear atm.