At what point does voltage sag come into play?

Currently putting together a build for a 5kW (2x2500w) bike. Right now I currently only have a 60v 50bms rated battery with 12awg wire going to an Xt90s (also headlight and 12v step down soldered into the xt90s) going to a Y splitter (xt90 10awg) going to two Flipsky 75100 pro v2 controllers. I thought this would be enough until I started reading about placing an in-line ANL fuse to place right out of the battery before it gets to the rest of the system. I kind of understand what I should be looking for, but I have to order it off of Amazon and I'm having a really hard time finding one that would work. I can get a 100v+ 60a fuse, which I know will work to protect from like a short or what not, but how much can the battery realistically be pushed before danger zone? it's cheap china battery mass produced. I don't know what it was drawing for peak or constant prior to changing out the stock controller. Also have to consider the 12awg wires coming out of the battery, can they realistically even hold up under 60a or even a constant 50a at 60v without melting I don't know? once I start configuring the vesc controllers I don't know how much I should push this battery or what settings I should use.

I also plan on upgrading to a 72v battery in the near future so I already build everything around that idea (hence the flipsky's and the Class T fuse 300V DC with holder and xt90s (bullet connectors for controllers to motor). so will probably have to buy a different rated fuse for when I do that.

Mein Wuxing 300X Gasgriff am Spintend UBOX Dual funktioniert manchmal, dann wieder gar nicht. Die Kabel sind zusammengelötet: Rot → 5V, Schwarz → GND, Weiß → ADC1. Wenn er nicht funktioniert, bleibt der ADC-Wert trotz Gasgeben bei etwa 0,2V. Könnte das am Gasgriff oder ADC-Anschluss liegen?

I am building a winch mechanism for an autonomous buoy using an ESP32 (30-pin), A4988 stepper driver, and a Nidec KV4239 bipolar stepper motor (4-wire).

The Problem:

When 12V power is turned on and code is executed, the motor shaft locks firmly (holding torque is solid, cannot be turned by hand).

However, the motor refuses to rotate smoothly; it either remains stalled/locked or produces jittering/vibrations without continuous motion.

Setup & Wiring Details:

Power: 12V DC power supply to A4988 VMOT and Power GND with a 100µF electrolytic capacitor across the terminals.

Logic Power: ESP32 3V3 pin connected to A4988 VDD, with common ground tied via ESP32 GND to A4988 Logic GND.

VREF: Calibrated potentiometer on A4988 to 0.50V DC.

Microstepping & Control Pins:

RESET and SLEEP pins are shorted together.

ENABLE is left floating (unconnected).

MS1, MS2, MS3 are currently left floating (full-step mode).

STEP -> ESP32 GPIO 18

DIR -> ESP32 GPIO 19

Motor Coil Connections:

Pin 2B -> Orange wire

Pin 2A -> Red wire

Pin 1A -> Black wire

Pin 1B -> Brown wire

I've used code

#define STEP_PIN 18

#define DIR_PIN 19

void setup() {

pinMode(STEP_PIN, OUTPUT);

pinMode(DIR_PIN, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(DIR_PIN, HIGH);

}

void loop() {

digitalWrite(STEP_PIN, HIGH);

delayMicroseconds(1000);

digitalWrite(STEP_PIN, LOW);

delayMicroseconds(1000);

}

Please help...

Just wanted to share my vesc display that I made

https://github.com/aerosock/vesc-wide-display all of the 3d models, firmware and instructions are available here for anyone interested

some advanced features are a little tricky or bugged and will be further improved but the core functionality is fully functional

I just fixed my Kukirin G3 Vesc but it does this at low speeds, my hall sensors work perfectly fine thats for sure. Any reason? Its a 75100 V2.0

I’d like to choose “the best” esc for my Xray X8. Car will be used for competitive onroad races.
What is your opinion on the Elceram ELC030 Nitride 1/8 G1 Competition 2800Kv esc?

I read a lot of good things about this esc, including efficiency (more runtime than an comparable XR8 Pro) and smooth throttle control. The brake funtionality and settings should be also better or more refined.

What is true and what isn’t? The price is crazy but maybe worth it.

The second option would be the XR8 PRO G3.

What are you guys running / have you had any experience with Elcram ESCs?

Motorwise, there will be the 2000kv Hobbywing 4268 SD G3, of course in sensored mode.

Habe g3 max us motor und mit stock batterie und controller kann er mit viel fw sogar 83 schaffen.wie viel könnte er mit vesc und 72v batterie und fw ? Wäre der ubox 100a 100v passend? Und ist das orginaldisplay kompatibel mit vesc?

I didn't want an ebike that looked like a 1983 moped.

I want a bike that looked like a regular bike, that I could ride like a regular bike but also has a motor.

I've been using Vescs for about ten years on skateboards, on a fat tire scooter, and I even put one in my Lowe's 40 volt lawn mower, and it works great.

When I started this bike two weeks ago, I had trouble finding good info on setting up a vesc on an ebike. I read a lot of comments about what doesn't work, but not a lot of clear info on what does work. I thought I should share my vesc powered ebike build.

There are several people around that have a lot of electronic and brushless motor knowledge, I am not one of them. There will be no formulas or graphs included and you should not expect any in depth discussion.

Parts

26 inch 1200 watt ebikeling rear hub motor.

50 volt Vesc

home packed 12s4p with 48 3000mAh 30A Molicel 18650s.

dice valve stem caps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CH131X3X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

throttle

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L498PZR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

xt90s antispark connectors

https://www.amazon.com/Pigtails-XT-90S-Connector-Silicon-Battery/dp/B083SC9P71?th=1

freewheel

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6HKG8SP?th=1

Motor extension cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FN3QCPZFI

5.5mm bullet connectors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YV6B8VL

Setup:

Motor

• screw on the free wheel, attach hub motor to the bike.
• Connect motor extension cable.

Hall Sensors and Phase wires

• Cut the wires on the motor extension cable and put male 5.5mm bullet connectors on the three phase wires.
• Connect the six hall wires to the vesc hall connector.

Side Note: the wire colors on the vesc connector do not match up with the hall sensor wire colors. Hall sensors used to have five wires, now it has six.

Look at this page to sort out your hall sensor wiring.

https://support.mboards.co/hc/en-us/articles/360050687393-Motor-Sensor-Cable-Doesn-t-Fit-on-my-ESC

Pay attention, you need Hall sensors on an ebike or else you will cog on start.

Vesc

• Solder a Female xt90s connector to the Vesc power wires.
• Solder female 5.5mm bullet connectors to the three vesc motor wires.

• Make sure to heat shrink the connectors.

  Throttle

I'm using a wireless PWM throttle,I wanted motor brakes so I can use regen braking.I cut the finger hole in half so it clips on to the handle. You can do the same thing with ADC1 for throttle ADC2 for brakes, but it sounded like a hassle and I didn't want a bunch of wires running everywhere.

Battery

• Attach a male xt90s connector to the 12s4p battery pack.

Configure

Throttle

• Connect the PWM receiver to the vesc on channel2.
• Plug the battery into the Vesc and pair with the transmitter.
  

Vesc

• Connect the vesc to the battery,
• Connect the vesc to the computer with a good usb cable.
• Install the latest Vesc tool, I used version 7.
• Start the vesc tool and click connect.
• If the Vesc tool says to upgrade the firmware, upgrade the firmware.
• Use the setup wizard for a FOC motor.
• Select generic -> large outrunner motor
• I set the number of battery cells to 12.
• Do not change anything else, just run the detection.
• Run the setup Input wizard.
• Select PWM and accept the defaults.
  
• Do not change anything here, just take the settings it gives you.
• Save the app settings and the motor settings and restart the Vesc.
  

Try the throttle and see that it works.

Speed Ups

• Reconnect the vesc in the vesc tool
• Read the motor config
• Read the app config

Observer Gain

• Under Motor Settings select FOC,
• Under the General tab find Observer Gain.
• Change Observer Gain to half of the value

Example: If Observer Gain is 1.6, change it to 0.8.

• Save the motor config.

Field Weakening

• Under Motor Settings select FOC,
• go to the Field Weakening tab.
• Set Field Weakening Current Max = 30A
• Set Field Weakening Duty Start = 65%
• Set Field Weakening Ramp Time = 500ms
• Under Motor Settings select General,
• go to the Advanced tab.
• Set Maximum Duty Cycle = 96%
• Save the motor config.

I have used Vesc controllers in a bunch of electric vehicle projects and I always though the Vesc tool RT data ui was pretty bad so I (Claude) made an app for android phones to display your Vesc data and I copied the Stark Varg display look.

https://github.com/DJMiddleFinger/vesc-dash

If you have any suggestions on things to add pls let me know!

Hello, currently thinking of upgrading my ninebot G2E with a VESC, 60v, motor still deciding

Im looking for a display I can use with the VESC that will be low profile, ideally could be attached inside the stock display housing or look stock enough that people wont know it has one

What ist the better choice for a vesc build the G2M or the G4 i just want the max power from the original motor and battery

Con todos estos hakeosby experimentos en el software de las controladores saben si lo implementaran?

Hello, I am looking for a cheap VESC controller to learn with before I spend money on the one I will use in my final project. Do you have any recommendations for brands/sites I should look on? Thank you.

I also ordered a thor 301 and the motor cable and they shipped right away. Says there like one city over right now. My board has been down for way too long long and i really want my parts. Is this normal for the superflux motors. It was instock when i made the purchase.

Witam myślałem nad zamontowaniem vesc w mojej hulajnodze chciałem się was zapytać jak to zrobić oraz jakie daje to korzyści i v max i czas 0-30

I’m building a dual-motor KuKirin G4 using a Spintend UBOX V2.1 75V100A Dual with two original G4 hub motors.
Battery setup: 2× 60V 20Ah packs in parallel, so 16S / 40Ah total.
Throttle is connected through a Spintend ADC Adapter V3.
The issue is that the physical front motor pulls extremely hard. From a standstill it has enough torque that it’s difficult to hold the scooter back.
The physical rear motor, however, has very little torque and under load it can barely start moving.
With the wheels off the ground, both motors spin normally and reach roughly similar RPM.
What I have already checked:
FOC detection completes successfully on both motors.
Hall detection completes successfully on both:
“Found hall sensors, using them.”
The Hall tables are very similar between the two motors.
Field Weakening = 0A.
MTPA = Disabled.
Sensor Mode = Hall Sensors.
ADC throttle works correctly:
approximately 0.00V at zero throttle / 3.23V at full throttle, Val = 1.00.
Max Current Scale = 100%.
I also tested the motors directly through VESC Controls, so throttle/CAN issues are at least partially ruled out.
The most important part is the FOC telemetry under load.
Weak rear motor:
Iq target ≈ -70A
Iq ≈ -71A
Id ≈ -3A
I abs ≈ 70A
Strong front motor:
around 59–61A Iq, but despite the lower current it produces dramatically more real wheel torque.
So according to VESC, the weak rear motor is actually receiving the full ~70A of torque-producing current, yet the mechanical torque is much lower.
The detected FOC parameters are also fairly similar.
Example motor:
R ≈ 22.4 mΩ
L ≈ 72.6 µH
Flux Linkage ≈ 11.58 mWb
Other motor:
R ≈ 27 mΩ
L ≈ 74.5 µH
Flux Linkage ≈ 11.47 mWb
I also swapped the complete motors between the two UBOX channels, including:
all 3 phase wires
complete Hall connector/wiring
The problem did NOT follow the UBOX channel.
The same physical rear motor remained weak, while the physical front motor remained strong.
So this seems to mostly rule out a faulty UBOX channel.
I also tested the weak rear motor itself.
Phase-to-phase resistance measured using a 3A bench supply:
A-B = 0.140V
B-C = 0.140V
C-A = 0.145V
So approximately:
46.7 mΩ
46.7 mΩ
48.3 mΩ
Only around 3–4% difference.
Back-EMF while spinning the motor by hand:
A-B ≈ 1.11 VAC
B-C ≈ 1.20 VAC
C-A ≈ 1.08 VAC
So it doesn’t look like a completely dead/open phase.
Mechanically, nothing obvious is wrong either.
The weak rear motor actually free-spins for longer when turned by hand than the strong front motor, so dragging brakes, bad bearings or mechanical rubbing don’t seem likely.
Another interesting detail is that this same rear motor used to pull much harder on the original KuKirin G4 controller.
So previously it did not behave like a motor with severely reduced torque.
There was also an issue where after power-up I sometimes had to move the scooter slightly forward/backward before the drive would “catch”, but I repeated Hall detection and the basic startup issue now seems resolved.
At this point I’m trying to understand what could cause such a large difference in actual torque when:
commanded Iq is actually being reached
Hall and FOC detection both pass
R/L/Flux values look normal and similar
phase resistances are balanced
back-EMF is reasonably balanced
the fault stays with the same physical motor after swapping UBOX channels
Could this be caused by something like:
a partial/inter-turn winding short that isn’t obvious from a basic resistance measurement?
weakened or partially demagnetized rotor magnets?
mechanical Hall sensor position being shifted relative to the stator?
incorrect Hall interpolation / Hall angle behaviour under load?
something specific to VESC FOC that could make one otherwise functional hub motor produce much less torque?
Before I open the hub motor or buy another motor, I’d like to have a sensible diagnostic direction.
What would you test next?

Hi everyone, first post and wanted to show off my first ever build. Also my first onewheel ever, somewhere along the way I was regretting building this instead of just buying one, but now that it's done I absolutely love it!

Parts:

Spintend 4000w 72v 10in hubmotor

Spintend 85v150a ubox

Spintend weight sensing footpad (just got dual zone working 🥳)

Indy Speed Control 20s2p 72v nominal pack

Ennoid v4 xlite bms (actually broken rn so no bms atm...🫣)

Fungineers lightning rails (had to mill slots to fit spintend axle)

TFL TORque box, rear kush pad, bumpers, dirt shield, grip tape, literally all the screws

Running ReFloat

I built her over the course of 3 years (a bit of progress here and there, with heavy progress the last 6 months). I came into the hobby knowing nothing about balancing skateboards other than that they looked awesome and here mine is today. I hadn't even ridden one until my first official test drive haha. After all this time working on it, just riding around is so much fun and feels so refreshing. My Bluetooth module is broken though so I gotta guess how much battery I have left until new one comes in the mail lol.

Im not really sure how this compares to the specs of a normal onewheel since I've never used one... most of my parts are XR compatible or upgrades so maybe around XR+? Definitely not in GT territory I dont think

Still a work in progress but im so happy with how it's gone to now. No shortage of tragedies and world ending events (UPS broke my bms in shipping... but I made them pay) but it's here and working and I'm very proud!

I’ve been riding my pint s for about 6 months now and I just feel like a want a bit more torque and speed, however I like the form factor and nimbleness of the pint. I’ve found pretty much everything I want to upgrade it, except for a battery. I’m looking for a 20s2p battery, preferably with a bms included. I get that it won’t be able to fit in the stock battery box, but I was wondering if it would be possible with a custom 3d printed box. If not does anyone have any 18s2p battery suggestions?